109 GS Resto

[Polizei]

Had a few hours in the shed today and got a few more tasks done.

Picked up my new exhaust which went in relatively easily. I have a question for anyone else out there with a similar vintage 109 GS. Where does the exhaust normally exit? My exhaust exits behind the left rear mudflap and angles towards the side of the vehicle. It does not protrude at all beyond the edge of the vehicle and is a little recessed. My new pipe exits right behind where the mudflap would usually be and points towards the back corner of the vehicle. It may need a little more adjusting but I thought it would find out what is correct before doing anything else.









After that I removed my old broken axel straps. I was under the impression that these don't really serve a purpose and it is ok to do without them. Nevertheless I ordered a replacement from Paddocks and it is shorter than the old strap. So much so that I can't fit it. Is this usually the case? Do they stretch? Is there a trick to fitting these?

I also managed pulled off my passenger side mirror as the arm was badly rusted. Whilst removing the mirror the rusted bolt snapped (another one!).


I managed to fix this up but when I removed the back of the mirror the rubber surround which holds it all together was so brittle that it broke. Does anyone know of a replacement source for these?

[FFRMAN]

Hi, the exhaust looks good but cant help as i have ffr's and the exhaust is under the front brush bar. The straps need to be military ones which are longer due to the extended spring shackles, they are available to buy.

Cheers
Scott

[cookey]

Hi, I've just started reading this thread. Looks like you're doing a great job. Those rusted threads can be a real challenge!!  Has the vehicle been exposed to salt air?
I notice that in the photo of the wheels, the one at the back right is a different model (2a perhaps) than the other three. Also, if you need a usable thermostat housing I can probably find one that I could donate. Please let me know if you would like it.
In the meantime keep up the good work!
regards,
cookey

[Tommy]

G'day cookie

Series 2/2A 

Looks like you will need to track down another S3 rim Polizei 

I enjoy reading this thread.

Stuart

[Polizei]

Yes the wheel that looks different is the spare.

I thought it was just painted different on the inside, but it looks like the centre is stamped differently also.

I can't check as the wheel are off getting a makeover!

[Polizei]

Has the vehicle been exposed to salt air?

Also, if you need a usable thermostat housing I can probably find one that I could donate.

The vehicle came off a farm. Often the water lying around was quite brackish. I think this contributed to the poor state of the fasteners

Am in desperate need of a thermostat housing. Thanks very much! I'll PM you

[Polizei]

Progress is still rather slow as I am only able to spend an afternoon a week on it.

I had a couple of old tins of Wattyl Olive Drab from when I used to have a workshop trailer a long time ago. This paint must be 15 years old.



Anyway I thought after watching a great youtube video on painting a car with a roller I would try this method out.

So after a bit of a rub down with a scourer these are the results.

Before:


After:




The tin said to use 1 part paint to 1.5 parts thinners, but as you can see it has come out a little thin in a couple of spots.

I used a 160mm flocked roller which left a very consistent finish. The downside is that despite giving it a good wash before, some of the small flocking fibres came off. Other people have had luck with foam rollers although this can cause bubbling issues also.

Anyway I think this technique with a bit of refinement will meet my needs.

My wheels which are off for restoration will hopefully be back this week. Once they are fitted, and I have done a couple of other jobs it will be time for rego!

After this I will attend to the cosmetics properly

[Mick_Marsh]

The mirror looks like a Moke mirror. I've seen a few listed on ebay in recent times.
You may wish to research the style of mirror that was originally on them as my experience with Moke mirrors has not been a happy one.

[Polizei]

The mirror looks like a Moke mirror. I've seen a few listed on ebay in recent times.
You may wish to research the style of mirror that was originally on them as my experience with Moke mirrors has not been a happy one.

I have glued it all up at the moment until I find a replacement. Thanks for the tip.

[Polizei]

A bit more progress.

A big thanks to Cookey for the thermostat housing. Scrubbed up very nicely!





Wheel got back from being refurbished. Given that there were some quite significant dents they got rolled, hammered etc, and sand blasted followed by powder coating.







Finally, I had my olympic steel treks put onto the wheels today but no photos yet. Bought new tubes etc also. The whole wheel refurb process has been a little more expensive than I wanted but I think the results are worth it.

The plan is to attend to a few more odds and ends this weekend and then get the historic registration sorted before the end of the month.

Fingers crossed!

Cheers

[Polizei]

Damn my big post just disappeared..

Second time lucky.

Put wheels and tyres on today. I had a ?series 2 wheel that was previously my spare restored. I have fitted it at the back, but the wheel spacing is a bit different to the others.

I also pulled the jerry can holders today. It was a pig of a job. I was concerned that this would be where the rust was if it was anywhere. After cleaning it up with a wire wheel I was left with a small 20c piece size hole on each side. Didn't get a pic of this unfortunately. But you can see the before shots. Not sure how to best fix this and if just welding in some fresh pieces of steel would be simple. There is a fair bit of room between the jerry can holder mounting holes and the rust hole on each side so this should be able to be left intact. The holes are just towards centre of the body mount you can see in the pic. The jerry can holders themselves are also rusted, especially the bottoms. I guess welding in new steel bottoms will be required here. In the meantime the are getting rust converted.







Also took the blackout lights off for safe keeping. Can you sill get the electrical connectors the army used?



Also took of the sole mud flap. Looked a bit lonely on its own. I was surprised that it was white given that its an army car. Did the army paint the flaps sometimes?

[FFRMAN]

Yeah Jerry can holders always tough, and sometimes not so good behind them.

The wiring on the blackouts should come apart and go back together later.

The Mud flap is original and very scarce now, and they where white in service on the series 3. Keep your eye open for a second and grab it if you see it.

Cheers
Scott

[Polizei]

Here are some better pics of the rust in the rear cross member. Its basically the same on the other side.







Outside with new tyres on. The door is painted with the wrong olive drab I am informed.

[Chazza]

The olive looks fine to me but the easiest way to check, is to find an unfaded piece of paint under the seats perhaps and compare it your Wattyl one,

Cheers Charlie

[Dragon Wagon]

When I presented my similar model FFR for RWC in Vic, those S3 army rims were knocked back due to the rib around the centre of the wheel nut holes. The testers were ex army mechanics from Puckapunyal, so they were quite familiar with these machines.