Author Topic: 109 GS Resto  (Read 55787 times)

Offline FFRMAN

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 2817
  • THANKS 211
  • Location: Western Vic.
  • REMLR No: 314
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #60 on: June 27, 2012, 01:33:35 PM »
When I presented my similar model FFR for RWC in Vic, those S3 army rims were knocked back due to the rib around the centre of the wheel nut holes. The testers were ex army mechanics from Puckapunyal, so they were quite familiar with these machines.

Sounds very odd. as the rib is there to strenghen the rim, the flat disc on the S2/S2A rims sometimes buckled when worked hard. Sounds like you got a couple of blokes in a bad mood!

regards
Scott
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline Dragon Wagon

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 98
  • THANKS 4
  • Location: Melbourne
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #61 on: June 27, 2012, 02:37:16 PM »
May be related to tension.

Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #62 on: June 27, 2012, 05:53:46 PM »
So i understand correctly you are saying that the inspectors thought it was a fault?

If they were supplied originally like this and australian complianced how can this be an issue?


Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #63 on: June 28, 2012, 03:47:55 PM »
Good news today!

Took the old girl to her government inspection today.

Ticked all the boxes.

Now has historic registration!!!

The was a bit of a scare when the brake lights decided not to work, but turned out to be nothing more than a loose fuse.



Offline FFRMAN

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 2817
  • THANKS 211
  • Location: Western Vic.
  • REMLR No: 314
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #64 on: June 28, 2012, 04:21:53 PM »
Congratulations!

Any pics

Regards
Scott
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline Dragon Wagon

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 98
  • THANKS 4
  • Location: Melbourne
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #65 on: June 29, 2012, 02:22:01 PM »
It may relate to the length of the studs as I recall another LROCV member telling me he had the same problem.

Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #66 on: June 29, 2012, 10:30:11 PM »
No more pics yet. Vehicle looks as it did in the last post with pics.

Tomorrow though, is another day...

I had some professional help to remove the snapped bolts from the thermostat housing. There were a few thing that I just wouldn't have been able to do in time for the historic rego (rules were changing so that only vehicles built before 1979 were eligible - this vehicle is a 1980).

My front drive shaft is very worn and this is next on the to do list. I have seen some online at widely ranging prices. It is my understanding that the short wheel base and long wheel base models are different lengths??


Offline FFRMAN

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 2817
  • THANKS 211
  • Location: Western Vic.
  • REMLR No: 314
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #67 on: June 29, 2012, 10:44:18 PM »
No more pics yet. Vehicle looks as it did in the last post with pics.

Tomorrow though, is another day...

I had some professional help to remove the snapped bolts from the thermostat housing. There were a few thing that I just wouldn't have been able to do in time for the historic rego (rules were changing so that only vehicles built before 1979 were eligible - this vehicle is a 1980).

My front drive shaft is very worn and this is next on the to do list. I have seen some online at widely ranging prices. It is my understanding that the short wheel base and long wheel base models are different lengths??


Depending on what mean by word drive shaft but if itis the uni joints it isnt too hard to change the yolk and roller pins, 2.6 engine vs 2 1/4 engine are different length drive shafts and civilian and army are slightly diff lenghs.

Regards
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline cookey

  • REMLR Inc
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 144
  • THANKS 57
  • ex-crafty
  • Location: sydney
  • REMLR No: 356
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #68 on: July 07, 2012, 04:48:21 PM »
Hi Polizei, congrats on getting you rego fixed up in time. After reading back thru this thread I see mention of the wire reo under the canopy. I have never seen this on Sydney based vehicles, however I believe it was common south of the border. Check out the photos posted up by Dave Goodman under the Series 3 section --- mine damage tests.  Also reminds me of a certain workshop trailer I purchased form a very nice South Aussie guy some time ago.................
Also, the Aussie style series 3 rims were introduced to overcome wheel nuts working loose in service. When tensioned correctly the raised section around the stud holes flexes inward and puts a loading on the retainers (sort of works like a spring washer). In my experience these are the best rims to use. If tensioned correctly, they DO NOT work loose.

Cookey
lost count

Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #69 on: July 08, 2012, 08:59:38 PM »
Also, the Aussie style series 3 rims were introduced to overcome wheel nuts working loose in service. When tensioned correctly the raised section around the stud holes flexes inward and puts a loading on the retainers (sort of works like a spring washer). In my experience these are the best rims to use. If tensioned correctly, they DO NOT work loose.

Cookey

Ahh...makes perfect.


Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #70 on: July 08, 2012, 09:11:57 PM »
I am not sure what the correct term is but here is the front prop shaft / drive shaft that I need to replace.



There is a lot of play where the splines are.

Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #71 on: July 08, 2012, 09:16:45 PM »
I have to get this one home soon. I was planning on using it as parts car, but now I am not so sure.... ;D ;D ;D Probably not an economical restoration though.






Offline cookey

  • REMLR Inc
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 144
  • THANKS 57
  • ex-crafty
  • Location: sydney
  • REMLR No: 356
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #72 on: July 08, 2012, 09:46:49 PM »

Hi Polizei,
re the front prop shaft.

the female splined part...........Splined end, front propeller shaft.................P/N JJ8407
the male splined part..............Shaft end, front propeller shaft....................P/N 601790
the end flanges.......................Yoke, universal joint (same both ends)........P/N 600656
the rubber boot.......................Boot, dust                                                    P/N R276483

I may have a shaft with good splines.....will check and see. You will probably have to replace the uni's and dust boot.  Not sure what postage will cost though.

Let me know if you are interested.

Cookey 
lost count

Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #73 on: July 09, 2012, 05:04:42 PM »
Thanks Diana for the link

Offline Polizei

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • THANKS 9
  • Location: Adelaide
Re: 109 GS Resto
« Reply #74 on: July 22, 2012, 05:17:24 PM »
Haven't had much time to spend on the old girl recently.

I made up some wooden blocks for the jerry can holders. A couple of the old ones were still in place to make copies from, although the are on their last legs.

How were these actually attached? I can see a couple of holes in the metal plate behind them, but their are no bolt holes in the front of the wood itself. I guess there is some nifty way to do it so there is no metal on metal contact with the fuel can.







As I mentioned in another thread I got myself some of the protec spray cans in 342-1166 'camouflage green'. The 4L tins were out of stock. I was going to apply the paint with a small foam roller. There is a nice youtube guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c--i4f5924I , where they seem to get good results. I know a sprayer would probably give me better results, but as I have never used one before I thought the roller would be a safe option. I also intend to paint the chassis (body on) at some stage, and a sprayer would be a bit easier for this you'd think. Decisions, decisions...