Perentie Long Range Camping Vehicle - LRCV

[Carzee]

Bit more etching and painting today, on the drivers side set. Had to warm all the parts up in the loungeroom first same as the passenger side the other day. Its cold outside.

Today I have also noticed that Jason's repro twin holders are not drilled for the rivets that attach the rubber jerrycan buffers. The RFSV Mk1 twin holder I mentioned that I have ...does have the buffers and they compare well to the std piece as used in the single holders. Identical spaced rivet holes. So, where do I go to get those buffers?

[Hot Rover]

Bit more etching and painting today, on the drivers side set. Had to warm all the parts up in the loungeroom first same as the passenger side the other day. Its cold outside.

Today I have also noticed that Jason's repro twin holders are not drilled for the rivets that attach the rubber jerrycan buffers. The RFSV Mk1 twin holder I mentioned that I have ...does have the buffers and they compare well to the std piece as used in the single holders. Identical spaced rivet holes. So, where do I go to get those buffers?

Hi Ross
You can get the rubbers at Land Rover dealer
Cheers
Rod

[Carzee]

Thx for that Rod. Will chase them up.

ROPS details:

HYG2543, Rubber Strip, U shape, 30mm wide, 280mm long, 13mm thick, with 3 x  6mm diameter mount holes,

HYG2652, Metal Strip, clamping, buffer to jerrycan holder using 3 Rivets, steel, 4.8mm diameter, 9.6mm grip length
update 1 -ordered from local LR Dealer, about $44.40 incl. gst per unit (one rubber piece with one metal strip).
update 2 -arrived next day, Rubber is in new condition. Poul says the LR warehouse has a climate controlled section for rubber and other parts. Mount holes correct.

also found a closer pic of the original RFSV Mk1 twin jerry fittings.

[Carzee]

Another day off.

Last week I had an emergency stop in the LRCV in peak hour. The Perentie pulled up well but it could do better. I took a look underneath (see pics) aaaaaand so I'm going to replace ye ancient original issue looking flexible brakelines with new ones.

[Carzee]

More thinking on the modification of the FFR Auxilary Battery Locker Lids.

The mod has to be done to get around the rock sliders replacing the original Perentie sill panels. The piano hinge on the bottom of each locker lid will not work with the slider bar.

Here are options I rejected:

Idea A: we use another pair of "Budget Locks" on the bottom (same as those fitted to the top of the lids)?

Idea B: we use over center clamps fitted to the panel beside the lockers? Problem is they work on matching plane, or need to be on level surfaces. The lid sits out from the surrounding body panel.

Idea C: we fabricate a fitting to join the lid to the sliding battery tray pins (using an angled U channel steel piece at the tray pin end and rivets onto the interior of the locker lid panel)?

And the winning idea so far:

Idea D: we fabricate a fitting fixed by rivets at one end onto the inside of the locker lid, and at the other (angled) end a M10 hole to match a "pin" fixed onto the lower panel (where the sill panel joined)? This pin and an R clip would use the existing lower panel boltholes as seen/circled in the following photos:

[Carzee]

Trial fit of the repro passenger side twin jerry holder from Jason Ede.

The top clamp that is bolted above the jerry cans does not fit well with the modern large outlet water jerrys from ProQuip. The Proquip "handle" is shorter due to the larger spout. The clamp suits the original Nylex type water jerrys with the small spouts of course.

update - Mike sent me a comparo group of photos showing the fact that the original (top clamps) do indeed fit both the ProQuip and Army Nylex jerrys. Jason's clamps are longer, they sit out from the rear bodywork further. The clamp mounting bolts to the body are also a different width apart.

[Carzee]

In the last couple of weeks things have been hectic but some small bits of progress.

Twin jerry holder fitting job:

The twin jerrycan holders' rubber buffers are fitted. Found that the correct rivets for the jerry can rubber buffers are steel 4.8mm diameter with 9.6mm grip.

Found that there is a fitting problem with the repro twin jerrycan holders made up by Jason (another oversight in detail regarding FFRs). On the drivers side chassis rear cross member there is a original FFR welded bolt 'eye' fitting (seen in the photo in yellow circle), that prevents the holder sitting correctly - it cannot be bolted up because of a 20mm gap. Rather than cut off the 'eye' on the cross member I cut out the required relief in the front left corner of the repro holder's base and inner left side to allow clearance -after I put in steel jerrys and saw there was room in the corner of the jerry holder for the 'eye'.

(For the RFSVs which were FFRs to begin with, the 'eye' must have been moved inwards and rewelded I suppose, but for standard FFRs... its still there.)

Aux Battery Locker Lids Mod/fitting job:

I cut off the hinges on the lids at the center leaving the welded half on the locker lids as reinforcing. This meant I could offer up the lids to work out a lower mount solution something like Ideas option D (posted on 1st Aug post above).

See photo.

Now that the lid is close to where it should be two more ideas have been entertained for the "hinge replacement" mount including Series 2 door hinges and smaller versions of the gardenning tool wing nuts. The door hinges were nixed after considering the bolts would have to pass right thru the slider bars and create 4 weak spots per side - or 4 ugly welding spots. The wing nut idea would work because -just like the anti-luce idea- the rubber door seal used does compress and tension the lid. The M8 or M10 size hole drilled thru the lower reinforced section (half of the original hinge), could locate the thread / bolt for a wingnut. To open a lid would require using the budget lock key at the top after undoing the two lower wingnuts.

[Barefoot dave]

G'day Carzee.
Loving the build thread and detailed processes.
A couple of notes about the rear crossmember 'welded eyelets'.
These are the Cargo tail gate hinge tabs. Same position on all chassis as they all started the same.
The only ones removed where the RHS one on rfsv for the reason you found- fouling the double Jerry holder. Only that side due to the offset nature of the hinge.

[Carzee]

Thx Dave, here for the record are some photos of the "mods" to the twin jerry set made to Jason's set to fit a std FFR rear quarter -simply done with a bench drill and grinder. Cold gal undercoat used.

1. The Pro Quip shorter handle water jerry mod A -making the clamp to body bracket shorter/closer to the bodywork on both sides.
2a. The Pro Quip shorter handle water jerry mod B -making the clamp jaws slimmer for both sides. (not discussed in posts above)
2b. painted cold gal
3. The clamp to body bracket backplates were trimmed one end to fit the FFR rear quarter neatly/lay flat.
4. The tailgate eye (driverside only) cut out/relief mod on the jerry tray front rhs corner. (to enable a flat seating of the jerry tray)

[Carzee]

The twin jerry job is not yet done. The clamp on the driverside is twisted and won't seat in the jerry handle correctly (I must be unlucky) and will have to be cut and rewelded. But I'll put a photo of the "nearly done" job here. Many thanks to Wayne, my "works foreman".

Also, of interest to fellow Landy rivet-counters...

a photo of the original issue backplate for the clamp bracket on the RFSV/SRV-SF rear tub I have
a photo of the extra reinforcing rivets on the RFSV/SRV-SF rear tub I have
and, for comparison, a photo of my FFR holes and rivets

nb, a member messaged me with more info on the rear quarter reinforcement variations (thanks for the info):

"G'day Ross... there are a few small points that are wrong, your tub, (the SRV SF one) it is different to the RFSV and FFR tubs...
Whilst the dual rear jerry bracing bracket is the same as the RFSV Mk1 & Mk2 and also the Regional Force FFR ADD versions, the tub doesn't have some of the extra reinforcing that the RFSV versions have in the rear because of the lack the internal box tie down points left over from the Mk1 RFSV boxes.

"However your SRV SF tub has many other additional bracing and fastening features that the RFSV and FFR tubs don't have. There are also quite a few differences in the purpose built RFSV tubs (3600kg GVM) to the converted FFR (3200kg  GVM) RFSV versions.

"Lots of people try and say that they're the same, but there are many differences in the versions."

[STDDIVER]

Nice one Ross - great detail and very easy to follow - top post!    STDDIVER

[Carzee]

Thanks for the encouragement Frank. Here is some more on the Aux Batt Locker Lid mod. The mod is to work around the new rock sliders.

I mentioned a few options on just how to get around the loss of functionality of the original lid bottom hinge...

"I cut off the hinges on the lids at the center leaving the welded half on the locker lids as reinforcing.

"Now that the lid is close to where it should be two more ideas have been entertained for the "hinge replacement" mount including Series 2 door hinges and smaller versions of the gardenning tool wing nuts. The door hinges were nixed after considering the bolts would have to pass right thru the slider bars and create 4 weak spots per side - or 4 ugly welding spots. The wing nut idea would work because -just like the anti-luce idea- the rubber door seal used does compress and tension the lid. The M8 or M10 size hole drilled thru the lower reinforced section (half of the original hinge), could locate the thread / bolt for a wingnut. To open a lid would require using the budget lock key at the top after undoing the two lower wingnuts."

In the last week I saw another idea on feebay and so I cut up some steel angle (250mm long) to try it once the hardware arrived. Well, it arrived, it fits, and this hinge looks like a good solution...

"SSteel Pintle Hinge". See pics.

[Carzee]

Last Saturday 15 Sep 18 my friend Wayne looked over the options I had for doing the modification to the Battery Locker Lid hinges.

The pintle hinge solution was trialed using clamps and found to be a big PITA to get right. Another solution using the same angle bar I had made presented itself - wing nuts on bolts welded to the angle bar of simply wing bolts into the lid with coupling nuts welded to the angle behind.

Late in the morning some purchases were made: M8 size coupling nuts (22mm long) and wing bolts (40mm long). The angle bar was drilled and bolted to the lip of the lower front part of the locker using M6 bolts. Some of the rubber door seal was nipped and removed to make room for the angle bar. Also some Locktite lube was applied to the M8 couplers to keep rust problems to a minimum. As it turned out the 40mm wing bolts go the full length of the threads of the couplers.

Late in the day the job was done but for some paint on the parts. Today the cold gal and top coat paint was applied.

[Carzee]

Time for an update.

We are getting closer to the annual Corowa Swim-In and tidying things up etc. I have an order in for Protec pressure pac OD at the local retailer but still waiting, 3 weeks now.

Some purchases for the LRCV: I attended a local coffee/chat and Dave had his 6x6 camper there. I investigated it and found he has trialed and tested different hot water setups and arrived at a good combo -  he has a Davies Craig EBP25 12v water pump, $153, from feebay, and a Heat Exchanger (a SSteel and copper stack unit, size "30"), $205 delivered, supplied by Scintex in SEQ. It connects to the engine heater hose.

Today the HE and the EBP arrived and next I have to decide where to locate these items...

[DennisM]

I have had a heat exchanger item in my County since 1993 in my opinion they are not worth a **** full of snow, bloody useless, I have now a gas heater type which works exceptionally well, but I suppose it's up to the individual, cheers dennis