6x6 fuel tank changeover

[Rob6x6]

Fellas, I changed the dash selector switch which I sourced from Jaycar thinking that this was the problem that was a bit of a mission.  But no luck I just keep blowing 10 amp fuses.
So now I am at a loss.  I'm not sure where to go next.  The wires from the switch are all either black or white that goes into the tangled mess of wires and I'm not sure where to try and chase next.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers Rob.

[dugite]

Rob, one method for finding a short that may help you is as follows.

Rig a 12v test light in place of the fuse and when the circuit is "shorting" the light will be on.

Then examine the wiring for that circuit to find where the short is.

When the light is "ON" the fuse would be "BLOWN", when the light goes out the fuse would not be "shorting".

Saves fuses while you're tracking down the "short"

[dugite]

This is the kind of rig I have used to place a test light in place of a fuse, cables are soldered into an old blown fuse, terminals are to connect to a light

You can see it is well used

[dugite]

Does the fuse blow on only one of the tank alternatives ??

- may help track down the cable that is offending

[Notlongnow]

Good idea Dugite, I will make one of those myself. I have plenty of blown fuses to make it from.....

Rob, I have been told that a lot of wires run behind the air filter and get chafed. Worth having a look there.

[dugite]

Good idea Dugite, I will make one of those myself. I have plenty of blown fuses to make it from.....

Rob, I have been told that a lot of wires run behind the air filter and get chafed. Worth having a look there.

Hint:   drill a small hole through the fuse plastic to get to some metal to solder the cable to

[Rob6x6]

Fellas, that's great stuff.
Not sure if it blows on both sides will check.
Will also check behind the air filter.
Thanks.
Cheers Rob

[Rob6x6]

G'day Fellas,
Still trying to find the short. I have taken the air cleaner housing out to expose the wires from the fire wall but still can't see anything that might be causing the problem just yet.
Dugite, it does short on both sides whether the switch is on left or right.  I rigged up one of your test fuses great idea it has saved me buying a bucket full of 10 amp fuses. I have followed the wiring from the Pollak connection along the top of the chassis rail back to the engine bay area and all appears ok.
Will keep digging.
Do you think that the Pollak valve itself  if faulty could cause this issue?
Cheers Rob.

[Rob6x6]

This is the circuit.

[Rob6x6]

Another

[dugite]

Hi Rob, see where the cabling is located behind that sheet metal (top and left).

I believe some owners have found cable insulation damaged by vibration where it passes the sheet metal edge.

Worth taking a good looking at

[Rob6x6]

Will do.
Cheers Rob

[dugite]

If that has happened, tape it up any damaged insulations individually and enclose it/them in corrugated split tube.

May also be good to round off any offending sheet metal edge or fit a plastic cover to any sharp edges to protect the future life of that wiring "group"

Tubing is available in a range of diameters

[Rob6x6]

This is the wire that went behind the the metal shield and then came back into another loom. I relocated it to the front of the shield because that's where the loom is.
However still no luck its got to be somewhere else.
Very frustrating......
One thing I have found along the way is there are quite a few wires with connections that are not hooked up to anything.
Any further suggestions?
Cheers Rob

[Rob6x6]

Another