craigb's Perentie FFR, RFSV and No. 5 Trailer

[craigb]

Post text removed and all my subsequent posts removed.

[dugite]

Impressive and interesting list craig, and a it brings a couple of things to mind (I knew that vehicle when it lived nearby).

The insect screens for the 4X4 110s can be purchased from Robco.

The second tank used under the pass seat in the RFSV is a tank from a LR90. So while it fits there, I understand they're quite expensive. The tank selection as factory fitted is by way of a Pollak valve but if I was doing it from scratch I'd use a simple 12v transfer pump.

[dugite]

death wobbles can be steering damper or bushes and may be exacerbated by wheel imbalance

[BEARMAN]

Or swivel housing preload.

[dugite]

Of course, thanks Brian

[STDDIVER]

Great post Craig!  Excellent read and positive progress - looking forward to the compressor fit solution under the bonnet too!


STDDIVER

[Carzee]

Great progress Craig.

1. I have a FFR power distr box you can borrow to look over and check out things as you need.

2. I have a spare panhard rod and new bushes ready to be pressed in. Saves waiting for parts. You can replace as time and work permits. This has happened already for a local member - its a like an exchange part. Take the rod over to Johnny at http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au  aka the Fyshwick Landy Club.

http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=4200.0

PM me.

[Carzee]

Wow, very busy.
Interesting about shellite. Not a common thing to do nowadays. I like it. Probably rarer than the walkers who use metho (I hate the invisible aspect).

For a bed board I used form ply, 18mm. Its strong, black and cheap at $10 a 900x600 sheet. Maybe if you see a AWOL alloy one you should buy it.

[Dervish]

Door tops/sliding windows:
- Ordered 4m of flocked rubber channel to fix the rattling windows once and for all.
- Removed both door tops. I'll run door top-less until the rubber arrives. I was surprised that the door top bolts were in generally good condition, although one had been replaced with a galvanised bolt. I was also pleasantly surprised that unlike the Garrison Outfitters videos, the rivets in the Perentie door tops have been replaced with little screws. That'll make life easier.

Where did you get your bailey channel if you don't mind me asking? The source I knew of folded and it has eluded me since.

By far the best camp cooking method for us is a Trangia on gas; with the 220g bottles. Gas and stove weigh about a kilo together, including two pots, pan and kettle. Brilliant bit of kit.

[Jdemo1]

Love the progress mate. What kind of prepping did you do to the old paint before you painted? A light sand then whack on the protec?

Cheers
Jake

[dugite]

The curtain in the FFR top is for blackout purposes, but would equally act for a similar purpose to what you need. On my most recent canopy order I added a curtain mainly for the purpose of additional warmth in winter, that insipid 110 heater needs all the help it can get

The curtain you illustrated looks good.

[dugite]

The curtain in the FFR top is for blackout purposes, but would equally act for a similar purpose to what you need. On my most recent canopy order I added a curtain mainly for the purpose of additional warmth in winter

The curtain you illustrated looks good.

Ah of course, a blackout curtain. I think it's made from that super-opaque silvery PVC type material on the inside of the FFR canopies too isn't it? I reckon it'd be cheap and easy to sew a clear vinyl window into that one, although it wouldn't be much of a blackout curtain once you were done 

no need for a window  - there is no matching rear "window" in the back of the FFR canopy.

[Dozer]

Great continued work Craig!  And I love the wave thing, with me being in the whole hand wave category.  I tend to not make eye contact Series 200's

[Chazza]

I wanted to retain my existing headlight assembly and its panel, so in order to remove the top wing panel from the assembly I had to drill out some rivets and then drill out what looks like some spot welds on the reinforcing plates. I haven't yet decided how to secure these spot welded areas. I have some stainless steel pop rivets which might work, or I may bolt them together.

Don't use stainless on aluminium it will start very bad corrosion between the two metals.

Always use rivets made from the same base metal as the panel.

Cheers Charlie

[DetV]

Craig, I like how you have re-purposed the Cannon power sockets to retain the covers and original appearance. Thanks for the ideas.