Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
Land Rovers => Australian "Perentie " 110 & 6x6 Vehicles => Topic started by: Carzee on March 31, 2016, 07:47:38 PM
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This thread is about preparations and mods for long trips.
Rod introduced me to his LRCV at Corowa. It is kitted out well.
The LRCV is not just about having good kit.
Some ground rules: KISS (simplicity where possible), suitability/reliability of materials or parts, and leave minimal trace. "Leave minimal trace" is referring to the desire to keep the vehicle substantially unmodified and so that if the LRCV is required for a display or to support an ANZAC Day for instance, items can be removed and the vehicle can be paraded in the appearance it had while in service in the ADF. That means taking care not to drill holes, or if there is no alternative except to drill etc, to at least think it through to work out alternatives and not to drill holes etc in easily seen places.
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Where to start? I have been testing out gear and seeing how practical it is for one thing. More on that later posts.
This thread was prompted today because I'm thinking through two ideas this week.
Both relate to the trip in 2017 which includes the Canning-Punctures-and-Rip-Off-Diesel-Route. The stories I have read tell of $3.60 diesel and of rips in low-tyre-pressure-sidewalls trap -done on the short stretch of sharp rocky track because they didn't re-inflate from the sand pressures, etc.
1. mounting a 2nd spare tyre (std issue Perentie Michelin).
2. adding an extra fuel tank, cheaply.
1. Spare tyre number on the bonnet? or on the floor of the rear tub? or on a bracket/gadget (custom made) to stand upright on the rear cross member? At Corowa I purchased a 6x6 roof mount for a spare tyre and it needs two bolts to mount the bracket. The bonnet does have bracing in the middle, I have checked. Hmmm.
2. I have an FFR and an empty under-center-seat stash locker (its behind and parallel with the front seat bulkhead). I wonder what CES gear was stashed in there? Cables perhaps? Rations, Ice and stubbies? The locker is approx. 900 wide, 225 high and 380 across. If I used it for ropes, tent pegs, or tools or spares as some examples, its stupid/impractical to unload the whole rear tub to access the stash if something like recovery gear is required. I think a fuel bladder could go in the through the locker door and be filled using one of the two rough and daggy 25mm holes already installed by Australia' finest on the center seat panel (the roof panel of the stash locker). The floor of the rear tub is a tad higher than the top of the standard Perentie fuel tank so it could drain (by the turn of a valve) into an empty main tank. To fill it would mean having the driver side canopy rolled up, clearing gear off "the seat" and reaching inboard with the bowser hose. Sounds simple but could it be reliable?
Item: Australian made fuel bladder. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100L-Diesel-Petrol-or-Chemical-Bladder-Flexible-Fuel-Bladder-FB100SP-/321119584438
Any comments on that?
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Hi Ross
I am looking foward to seeing what ideas come up here. I like the fuel bladder that you linked to.
Cheers
Rod
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Run the Spares like MK1 RFSV, run a 100L tank where the regular spare is mounted (think dervish). Very interested to see what you come up with.
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Regarding extra fuel and water, I like jerrys. I like the simplicity. I have tested the newish Pro-Quip diesel jerrys I purchased at the 2014 LR Expo. I laid down 5 or 6 full diesel jerrys on the rear floor (sitting on cheap neoprene camp mats). I drove around December through January, on road and off road, nearly 7 weeks without any leaks. Assuming the CSR is not going to take more than 15 or 16 days, I think carrying an extra 100 litres or so in horizontal steel jerrys and 100 litres in a bladder would be adequate.
Then there's the water jerrys to consider. How many litres for 15 -16 days?
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Regarding extra fuel and water, I like jerrys. I like the simplicity. I have tested the newish Pro-Quip diesel jerrys I purchased at the 2014 LR Expo. I laid down 5 or 6 full diesel jerrys on the rear floor (sitting on cheap neoprene camp mats). I drove around December through January, on road and off road, nearly 7 weeks without any leaks. Assuming the CSR is not going to take more than 15 or 16 days, I think carrying an extra 100 litres or so in horizontal steel jerrys and 100 litres in a bladder would be adequate.
Then there's the water jerrys to consider. How many litres for 15 -16 days?
Hi Ross,
re Water, they say 20lt per person per day when out back in hot weather, so scale back from that for mild weather
My only comment with steel jerry can (when travelling outback) is be careful they don't rub against each other, surprisingly steel will rub through and leak quicker than plastic, I've always had them standing up (the base is more solid) and packed tight, strapped down and cardboard between them to take up the rubbing.
regards
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Run the Spare tyres like MK1 RFSV, run a 100L tank where the regular spare is mounted (think dervish). Very interested to see what you come up with.
If When I get a flat, I think the easiest spare tyre to access is the classic mount, the Series LR tyre-on-bonnet. Certainly the 6x6 roof mount bracket is designed to operate on a horizontal panel. For the 2000km of the Canning Stock Route and other remote tracks perhaps I could stash one of the spares on the front bar or the rear crossmember area using a custom bracket. The RFSV mk1 has the spares mounted on the inside verticals of the ROPS. Its certainly a good spot from the point of view of the weight distribution. I think I would use rachet straps and avoid welding on mounting brackets. The drawback is that to access the spares a lot of cargo has to be moved. Hmmm.
Putting a station wagon fuel tank under the rear tub means I lose a spare tyre spot. But certainly this tank underneath idea has me thinking.
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Ross, if you are considering a fuel tank under the rear forget the std L/R 80lt one, splash out and buy a long range tank that will hold 120lts, just my tuppence worth, it will cost more than tuppence though, cheers Dennis
http://thelongranger.com.au/defenderlongrangefueltank.html
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Run the Spare tyres like MK1 RFSV, run a 100L tank where the regular spare is mounted (think dervish). Very interested to see what you come up with.
If When I get a flat, I think the easiest spare tyre to access is the classic mount, the Series LR tyre-on-bonnet. Certainly the 6x6 roof mount bracket is designed to operate on a horizontal panel. For the 2000km of the Canning Stock Route and other remote tracks perhaps I could stash one of the spares on the front bar or the rear crossmember area using a custom bracket. The RFSV mk1 has the spares mounted on the inside verticals of the ROPS. Its certainly a good spot from the point of view of the weight distribution. I think I would use rachet straps and avoid welding on mounting brackets. The drawback is that to access the spares a lot of cargo has to be moved. Hmmm.
Putting a station wagon fuel tank under the rear tub means I lose a spare tyre spot. But certainly this tank underneath idea has me thinking.
For the off-highway driving I do I would prefer not having the spare on the hood/bonnet. While I do agree that you will likely end up with a flat tire at some point or another, I wouldn't disregard the idea over a minor inconvenience of having to unload the car a bit, but i suppose the same could be said for running it on the hood.
I am running ex-us military 20L Plastic Sceptre fuel containers, and I plan to get a plastic water jerry from them too. I did not like the idea of a metal jerry considering diesel has water in it, and water and steel = rust! See Pic below.
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Nice fuel containers. Its good to see the US is going metric :) -joking. Those must have been for european deployments or somewhere foreign. I agree about rusty jerrys which is why I got new ones. They also serve well under plywood as a table, and also to sit on.
We are talking quite a distance between re-fuel on the CSR track. I just found this video of a CSR trek successfully done from south to north in mid 2015 by John Ford and Peter Constable with the usual TLC, Triton, Prado white fleet vehicles.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XfbnhMWXFA
Its about 20mins long and semi-pro, start to finish, except for a little microphone work. Even Gaynor the walker http://www.canningwalker.com is there doing a followup in her Perentie. She has immersed herself in the indigenous culture, shades of 'Dances With Wolves'. The photography there is first rate. The trek's reds -red everything- are tops. Makes me wanna go right away.
The TLC has a 160litre aux tank. In the video, at about 10 minutes into the video, they visit the CSR midpoint mechanic/fuel stop at the Kunawarritji Community near well 33 (somewhere in the Mt Newman latitudes). The diesel and unleaded price is $3.40 per litre (about 4 litres = 1 US gallon so thats about US$10 per gallon).
They also quiz the local mechanic about what is the most common breakdown (he says about 900 vehicles per year do the CSR trek). Its not flat tyres - its dead shock absorbers and suspension mountings from people overloading fuel and water... so we have to get it right.
Seen in the video are various dead 4x4 and trailers: intermittently, like roadkill. also ref. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canning_Stock_Route
In this video, 4 minutes long, which is all about CSR terrain and technique, you can see why a trailer is not going to be a good idea for the LRCV...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nKJPgFFsEM
So I won't be taking the trailer, or a tinny on the roof. Not a fishing fan anyway. A quiet little kayak could be nice for a few hours here and there but it is worth carting my own canoe/kayak all around the country (+fuel) or just hiring one when the opportunity comes up?
The lack of straight runs up onto many many of the hundreds of dunes -it kills momentum- means the engines have to sit near the red line if you are dragging a trailer and even if not dragging a trailer sometimes. After hundreds of kilometres of that sort of work, the engine and driveline may show signs of being fatigued. And its a long way home.
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Ref to shock absorbers mentioned above. More - watch another CSR trek video by a foreign semi-pro team using five or so G-Wagens in 2011 like an imitation Camel trophy run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fNwKYPX5ws
They mention the Australian Army G-Wagen purchase of course, first up... In the first 3 minutes of video, around Well 10 of the 50+ wells if they are lucky, all five MB G-Wagens have blown their rear shockies which are Bilsteins. The shockies are shown the camera - they're bent and busted like they were in a 100mph prang (wreck in US speak). They are mulling over a $20,000 quote to fly in replacement shockies (and spares) for all the team. I note that they are all wearing new hats, including the Murcedes technicians on the team. Some tourist shop near the Kalgoorlie airport must've had a good day.
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Cuppa time:
About an hour back we went up for a sunset brew up at a local lookout. Autumn leaves have started to appear all over. We keep all the brew up gear in a removable console between the seats. It works like a basket; its a water jerry with one side cut out and sat horizontally between the front seats. Most often I just lift it out and put it on the bonnet and assemble the little gas burner. Sometimes, if its too breezy we park up against the wind and put out the FFR Aux battery tray to cook on.
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Batteries:
I mounted two batteries in one of the FFR Aux battery lockers. I sprayed the shiny new terminals with a laquer product used to spray PCBs. I have had good results with this before: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Service-Aids/Chemical-Aids/Aerosols/Circuit-Board-Lacquer-Spray-Can/p/NA1002
There's one engine and one deep battery. Both are Cat batteries and both are topped up/monitored by the Red Arc Isolator I put under the passenger seat in the old engine battery position. The extra power is for either a e-winch or e-fridge, neither of which I have settled on as yet, I don't own any brand or have any experience in these items.
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Ref to shock absorbers mentioned above. More - watch another CSR trek video by a foreign semi-pro team using five or so G-Wagens in 2011 like an imitation Camel trophy run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fNwKYPX5ws
They mention the Australian Army G-Wagen purchase of course, first up... In the first 3 minutes of video, around Well 10 of the 50+ wells if they are lucky, all five MB G-Wagens have blown their rear shockies which are Bilsteins. The shockies are shown the camera - they're bent and busted like they were in a 100mph prang (wreck in US speak). They are mulling over a $20,000 quote to fly in replacement shockies (and spares) for all the team. I note that they are all wearing new hats, including the Murcedes technicians on the team. Some tourist shop near the Kalgoorlie airport must've had a good day.
My setup if you could even call it one is/will be pretty mild compared to yours. I have purchased the helper spring setup with the plates, this setup was less than $100usd shipped from LRdirect. These are the inner coils that RFSV and 130 use. I have not looked into what shock absorber to use, but I will try to get my hands on a decent set for a reasonable cost. Here, especially around me we do not have the ability to lose civilization all together in a few hours drive (or at all comparatively). Right now with my current stock setup I am good for about 450 miles on sealed roads, which is ok, but I would like a bit more range than that!
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I like the sound of the helper springs. Do you have the part numbers handy - I think it would be a good investment considering the continual cargo, day in day out, as we go on our way.
You mention fuel range and I have has some more thinking on those bladders. The proper fuel tank underneath the rear as per the station wagons is a good choice - there are some mountings and mods and there is no visible cosmetic effect - its all under the vehicle (so it fits the "tread lightly criteria" mentioned at the top of the thread). The problem is the cost, over $900.
The bladder idea could be better suited to the LRCV as a water bladder. All the bladders, fuel or water, have a wide inlet hose and a 13mm outlet hose. Empyting/draining is not an issue. You just hang the outlet lower than the tank and let gravity work, decanting to a jerry perhaps.
What does appear to be a hassle is the fill up: spilling some diesel would be undesirable, mainly because of the stink. I assume there would be spillage due to the slow filling - I cannot see how the air is going to come out when you fill up (breathing) without making a mess. Water spillage would be no problem. And if the bladder ever gets a small leak... as I said water spills no problem.
Here is the water version of the bladder that would be suitable, oversize for the locker but that would mean less stress on seams.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Water-bladder-tank-140-Ltrs-for-4x4-Camping-Fishing-and-Boating-/221236154980?
So then back to jerrys for the diesel. As mentioned, I already have 9 new diesel jerrys purchased at half price "sales" that come up sometimes.
How to pack them in? This how I see it at this time:
Two jerrys on the back crossmember.
Six laying horizontally on the tub floor, utilising some of those cheap neoprene camping mats to stop friction underneath and between the jerrys.
Thats 8 jerrys (160 litres) plus the std tank under the driver.
I could also temporarily strap two more jerrys between the front seats on the 12mm plywood base I have there - after the first day they'd be empty and moved onto a roof rack or somewhere out of the way.
Thats ten jerrys, 160 litres plus 70litres in the std tank, 230litres. That weighs about 230kg. I will buy a bit more "safety factor" diesel at the midway point on the CSR (at that crazy price).
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Check out this idea!
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/fuel-solutions/boab-poly-diesel-tank-50lt.html
The angle of the side of the tank might just be the same as the angle of the panel behind the seats, in which case it would be very functional nestled at the front of the tray. .
Not sure about the filling or connecting, but it's a start.
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Here is a pic.
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I like the sound of the helper springs. Do you have the part numbers handy - I think it would be a good investment considering the continual cargo, day in day out, as we go on our way.
Helper springs work well for big loads, but even 130 owners often take them out as they're too stiff. They are fitted to the 3500kg GVM Landys - 130 and 110 HD. Numbers 15-17 below.
(https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/getattachment-jpg.10051/)
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If the helpers make things too rough, a hard ride, what to do? Are the originals enough for a full load or are there stronger springs as a compromise that are ok. I seem to recall a post here about King springs.
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Meanwhile I ordered a water bladder. The refilling inlet is 25mm, and on the top - so stick a hose over the side of the tub to fill the bladder. For the bladder to breath while filling you'd bring the outlet 13mm hose up above the bladder, perhapps held to the ROPS. I ordered a outlet hose 1200mm long as it will have to get to the outside of the vehicle using either option A or B:
Option A is to put the hose thru the driver or passenger doorway. I could drill out the space between an existing pair of screw holes the army have put (for some reason) in the low point of the angled part of the rear-of-cabinseats-bulkhead. The hose is 13mm so a 18 to 20mm hole with a rubber grommet should be ok, and being behind the driver seat, it won't be very obvious unless the seat is forward: I could coil up the outlet hose and hang it on the bulkhead behind the seat.
Option B is to go to the side of the floor of the tub and have the hose accessible thru the Aux Battery Locker. It would mean the hole and the grommet are almost invisible but the coil of hose would get dusty or muddy I suppose.
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"If the helpers make things too rough, a hard ride, what to do? Are the originals enough for a full load or are there stronger springs as a compromise that are ok. I seem to recall a post here about King springs."
Hi Carzee,
Looks like a great build you have going on there. Looking forward to watching how it progresses.
I have the original RFSV spring set up with the inner helper springs on the rear. I find the ride very comfortable even when the vehicle is unladen. Just my 2 cents worth into the discussion. I should preface my opinion however as I come from owning a Series III Stage One with leaf springs all round before I picked up the RFSV. It certainly is a drastically improved ride over the Series!
Regards Warrick.
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If the helpers make things too rough, a hard ride, what to do? Are the originals enough for a full load or are there stronger springs as a compromise that are ok. I seem to recall a post here about King springs.
..........
Being new to the RFSV I have avoided a peremptory helper spring removal, and have been experimenting with sensible tyre pressures instead (which have other benefits off the tar I might say).
The double spring fitment in the RFSV (as per the LR130) certainly enables a marked extra fuel/water carrying capacity without overcompressing the rear springs - we'll see :)
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Check out this idea!
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/fuel-solutions/boab-poly-diesel-tank-50lt.html
The angle of the side of the tank might just be the same as the angle of the panel behind the seats, in which case it would be very functional nestled at the front of the tray. .
Not sure about the filling or connecting, but it's a start.
Forgot to say I looked that over. And a very good website. Lots of stuff... [eyes glaze over...]
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/camping/front-runner-bbq-grate.html (fits on spare tyre)
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/camping/front-runner-land-rover-defender-side-mount-table.html (nice)
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http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/camping/front-runner-land-rover-defender-side-mount-table.html (nice)
They are a nice bit of kit, certainly draws the attention of the locals.
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad246/OreganoM1/IMG_5386_zpsdc90a182.jpg)
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad246/OreganoM1/DSC_0101_zpsxynew44j.jpg)
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Did I see those table clips on the side of your 110 a while back?
Do you know what they are called and where or even if they can be purchased separately?
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Did I see those table clips on the side of your 110 a while back?
Do you know what they are called and where or even if they can be purchased separately?
Yes, they've been on there for about 7 years. I'm afraid I don't know what they're called or where to get them, which is a shame as they're ingenious.
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I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.
The measurement between the aerial mounts is 120cm, and if it is 60cm deep, then it could be hinged upwards to clip to the center canopy bow. If the holes in the aerial mounts, (which are 35mm in dia) were used as the hinge point, then it could be used horizontally with adjustable legs to support it from below, or something from the roof rack to hold it from above.
The rear mount and the tool locker at the back don't have much space between them so any hinge arrangement on the mount has to take this into account.
The beauty of this would be the table could be used on either side of the Landy, although I'd tend to use the side with my awning on it.
The hinging arrangement is what I'm looking for - coincidentally, I'm off to the states on Saturday so I'll be wandering around Home Depot and Lowes to look around for some options.
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Measurements and a mock up of where the raised table would be positioned
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I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.
I got a spare sugar scoop last week from Howard to hand off to a fabricator who does mig/tig. I'm investigating the light roof rack idea. The std rack is heavy. If I can bolt four sq section "legs" to the inside pair of the 4 bolts on the four scoops, and have some horizontals connect the "legs" above the roof line I could probably go for a Gordigear Rooftop Tent with an interior ladder and annexe at the rear of the FFR to washup and get changed in.
Spending this fortnight - a water bladder from Fleximake, $200. Also a pair of new drab Maxtrax, $270. We'll see how long they last.
Last week I got a pair of XZLs fitted, tubeless, from where Rangie35/Johnny works now.
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I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.
The measurement between the aerial mounts is 120cm, and if it is 60cm deep, then it could be hinged upwards to clip to the center canopy bow. If the holes in the aerial mounts, (which are 35mm in dia) were used as the hinge point, then it could be used horizontally with adjustable legs to support it from below, or something from the roof rack to hold it from above.. snip
Very interesting use of those cable holes and the clip - "it could be hinged upwards to clip to the center canopy bow" thru the GS side window. Good thinking there. For the FFR you'd have to have the canopy side rolled up.
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I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.
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... Also a pair of new drab Maxtrax, $270....
Go back and change them for a bright colour Ross, (so you don't lose them) :)
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:) Yeah, there's only one other colour worse in that regard - mud brown I suppose.
Here's the same item on feebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-MAXTRAX-MKII-OLIVE-4WD-RECOVERY-TRACK-SAND-MUD-4X4-MAX-TRAX-EXTRACTION-TRED-/201426656261
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I like the sound of the helper springs. Do you have the part numbers handy - I think it would be a good investment considering the continual cargo, day in day out, as we go on our way.
Sorry for the delay here is the parts, I ordered them with a few other things, but I'll bet this was under $100USD with shipping to USA from UK, they have really good rates compared to other places. Plus you can pay in home currency (no exchange rate fee on CC), and they will deal with the customs forms.
RRC3266 Coil Spring x 2
https://www.lrdirect.com/RRC3266-Spring-Assister/
RRC3352 Retainer Rear x 2
https://www.lrdirect.com/RRC3352-Retainer/?sfi=RRC3352&keep_https=yes
RRC3355 Retained Bracket Lower x 2
https://www.lrdirect.com/RRC3355-Retainer/?sfi=RRC3355&keep_https=yes
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Thanks for the helper spring info.
I mentioned roof top tents. I looked over 2 dozen videos on youtube from different makers.
I recently went camping (before and during Corowa) and saw a few in action. We slept in a swag on the grass at Corowa and in the rear of the Perentie elsewhere. We used a motel at the start and at the end and a laundramat ofcourse. Small luxuries. When touring next year I think that would be the norm, i.e., one or two or three nights a fortnight in a motel, hotel or caravan park cabin, and (around) 25 nights a month camping.
Motels can cost $80 and up per night. Ditto cabins with ensuites at Caravan Parks. So the more nights you camp in the Landy the more you save.
I'm rationalising the money side because this afternoon I bit the bullet and brought a second hand roof top "tent" that came up for sale a couple of suburbs away. Serendipity.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoibaeRWZ8Q
Its a hardshell one, a Maggiolina Airlander in tan. I'm sure that when I sell it in 15 or 18 months I'll get back more than half the purchase price, so even if I lose a $800, the price per night works out very cheap -cheaper the more nights we are on the roadside somewhere (50 nights would work out at $16 per night to cover $800).
It came at the right time, as these things do, the same week as rego.
Cool nights. It has a good rep for colder nights which is what you get in the ranges around here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/82328-Buying-a-Maggiolina-Airlander-or-not
Hot nights... well it looks like it has minimal ventilation, so not so good in summer.
I'll pick it in the morning and then set about getting some measurements for a rack to be made up soon.
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Well "Maggie" is at home, on the patio, sitting on milk crates. We have checked it over and so far there are no faults and it presents as new. I tested it for length. I am 6.0ft and the mattress is fine unless I really stretch out the arches of my feet. Width for two people is less than a double bed, but thats ok.
We have tried some rack designs on paper and discarded some ideas to save money and to avoid weight. Its going to be very simple and just for "Maggie", nothing else. The minimalist rack will utilize the four existing bolt holes in the ROPS for the original roof rack. Therefore the four "legs" of the rack must fit in a way to make for a level platform.
Should've worked more on this project today but we went out with 2 other Perenties for another Canberra Campfire...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97_ccXKLLXA
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I got one too. At that price, they seem great value. I can now have one on each side of Sir Angus, weather dependent.
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I got one too: pity I don't have a Perentie to hang it off...
Howard
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I made my own 25 years ago, a length of angle iron bolted to the roof rack sides, with holes to suit the tarp, poles go in a length of PVC pipe with screw end, takes about 3 minutes to erect cheers Dennis
ps this ison my 1984 110
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I got one too: pity I don't have a Perentie to hang it off...
Howard
You to aye ;D doesn't hurt to plan ahead !
Pete
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Today I prepped and "painted" Maggie the rooftop with some plasti-dip. Its US cam green.
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OK, we all know how heavy a 20L water Jerry is, and we don't always want to take them off the back of the Perentie, so hear is a solution!
Picked up this little wonder when I was in the US the other week, ordered on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/TeraPump-TRPMW100-Battery-Drinking-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y90?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
It runs on 2 x D cell batteries, and literally gives water on tap!!!
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And now for a table - best suited to FFR vehicles, but using a standard piece of 1200 x 595 ply (NO cutting required), some paracord to the roof rack, and 2 clips, here is a side table for a stove or whatever.
It will work on either side and can also use adjustable tent poles on the ground to support it.
With an awning above on the roof rack, it gives good cover when using the table.
And it can be put up, out of the way when not in use, but I would not drive with it in that position.
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And now for a table - best suited to FFR vehicles, but using a standard piece of 1200 x 595 ply (NO cutting required), some paracord to the roof rack, and 2 clips, here is a side table for a stove or whatever.
It will work on either side and can also use adjustable tent poles on the ground to support it.
With an awning above on the roof rack, it gives good cover when using the table.
And it can be put up, out of the way when not in use, but I would not drive with it in that position.
Good idea. When you posted the drawing/plan up thread I was wondering how simple the fittings would be. I thought, yeah same lanyard from the rack, but then a length of dowel as a horizontal support between the aerial mnts and a groove routed in the underside of the ply table to suit the dowel. Anyway, you have proved it works, its a good height off the ground too.
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I gave some more though to Alan's side-table idea:
My plastic coated Bunnings formwork ply fits between the aerial mnts (sugar scoops) perfectly, no trimming! ($9.95 on special - when they have it - 1200x600x17 http://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/building-hardware/building-boards/structural-plywood/form-plywood). My dowel aka broomsticks (carried not to save my wife a walk if we breakdown but to straighten out the rolled-up canopy sides) could do the job running between the FFR sugar scoops. So one long side of a formwork ply sheet could be routed to suit the broomstick. So thats the inside of the table supported (the side closest to the bodywork).
The outside needs support and Alan uses a rope tied off at the appropriate angle back to the roof rack. Since I use four formwork ply sheets as a bedbase/cargo platform across the rear tub I can't attach fittings - boxes wouldn't easily slide forward, they would jam the fittings Alan uses so I thought of having a hole drilled/routed in the two outside corners to enable tying off the ropes. Then I thought of using two more of the alloy tent tubes as table legs, and poke them up into the corner holes. They are about 15mm diameter. Would work, but how to adjust the table leg height? I could drill a series of "height adjust" holes in the tops of the tubes just like other camping gear. I could use a split pin or something at the right height. The ground is rarely flat.
This idea sounded a bit involved writing it all up just then, but its just a simple 1200x600 sheet sitting on a horizontal length of dowel one side and two vertical tent frame tubes on the opposite side. It'll easily cope with the weight of meal making etc - its quick to fit and its under the awning too. Would I roll out the damper dough on it? We'll see next year...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUeWRnIFYw0
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Got my AWOL awnings today.
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Got mine yesterday. Looks in great condition.
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AWOL canopy back where it belongs - on a Perentie.
Be aware there is a right way and wrong way to mount this!!! You can have the AUSCAM facing up or down!!! Ask me how I know!!! ::)
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Good result all round with these awnings. Definitely the same quality as the canopies. Already there are people want one made by whoever made them.
Sir Angus' canopy lines are a bit saggy. A member here is working on a mod to neaten up the roof lines and add heat insulation. His Perentie is the one with the winch in the video from May 1st https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97_ccXKLLXA
ps, I like your OD ex-mil roof tiles as well. Auction? :)
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Mine came yesterday and I must say I feel guilty about the low price I paid for a quality product - under $100 when I take off postage! I am working hard to overcome my guilt :)
I have attached mine to the canopy support rail inside the near side of the canopy on my S2A. When I want to use it I roll up the canopy on that side and then extend the awning.
Howard
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I should be talking about tyre irons, something I need, but I'm thinking
... Coffee. Its definitely a first world problem, "glamping", I know, I know, but...
I have a percolator at home, and a italian expresso gadget (a gift)and both are unused.
I have a capsule cuppacino machine that gets used a lot. I can't see me camped beside the murray somewhere with a generator.
Suggestions?
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We use a plunger and a Trangia w. kettle; it's a brilliant set up. The plunger is a bit fragile, but it hasn't been an issue yet.
Speaking of which, it's about coffee time!
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Any more of these awol awnings available??
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Well thats the question alright. So far all the people who see them want one....
This morning I sent a PM to the seller asking if they are sourced from Robco. If it was them, they usually keep templates and patterns for further use. Certainly the other items such as wheel covers and light covers looked like Robco.
We'll see.
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I should be talking about tyre irons, something I need, but I'm thinking
... Coffee. Its definitely a first world problem, "glamping", I know, I know, but...
I have a percolator at home, and a italian expresso gadget (a gift)and both are unused.
I have a capsule cuppacino machine that gets used a lot. I can't see me camped beside the murray somewhere with a generator.
Suggestions?
You mean like using an invertor?
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Here you go Ross.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Handpresso-Auto-Premium-Set-12-Volt-Espresso-Machine-Black-Best-Gift-Genuine-New-/281712180761?hash=item41975abe19:g:oUIAAOSwe-FU~~u4
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I should be talking about tyre irons, something I need, but I'm thinking
... Coffee. Its definitely a first world problem, "glamping", I know, I know, but...
I have a percolator at home, and a italian expresso gadget (a gift)and both are unused.
I have a capsule cuppacino machine that gets used a lot. I can't see me camped beside the murray somewhere with a generator.
Suggestions?
You mean like using an invertor?
No I mean a dripper filter thingy using billy water. I would guess a coffee/cuppacino machine would pull at least 1500w.
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I should be talking about tyre irons, something I need, but I'm thinking
... Coffee. Its definitely a first world problem, "glamping", I know, I know, but...
I have a percolator at home, and a italian expresso gadget (a gift)and both are unused.
I have a capsule cuppacino machine that gets used a lot. I can't see me camped beside the murray somewhere with a generator.
Suggestions?
You mean like using an invertor?
No I mean a dripper filter thingy using billy water. I would guess a coffee/cuppacino machine would pull at least 1500w.
All that 1500w will be boiling water, I wonder if you could pre-boil it with gas...
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Yeah a backpacker gas cannister is good - smallish gear, and cheap. I use a Kovea Spider burner for making a cuppa at the moment. Fits in a Nutella plastic jar. ::)
We went out before first light this morning, any coffee is good when you're out early.
I just put up a 90sec video of it. Getting in some practice for the big trip... I took one good pic at least.
https://youtu.be/DGyD1F8QZX8
at the 1min 18sec mark you can see yet another use of a sugar scoop - holds up a camera on a mono-stick!
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:) Footwell Vents. Army Air Con. Lets take a look.
We purchased a pair of RFSV vents and then compared them to Aussie suppliers online and came up with the correct part, still available over the counter, and on feebay.
They are sold for horse trailers by Dunn & Watson at https://trailerpartsdirect.com.au/
Incidentally they also make those budget locks we have on the outside locker lids-the ones that need the HYG3022 key to turn 90degrees. https://trailerpartsdirect.com.au/shop/locks-handles-direct/budget-lock/
The RFSV (Regional Force Surveillance Vent) fitment included a bit of extra steel to enable the boots to open the vent and also an interior trim piece. If you want the extra "boot-bit" you would have to make one up yourself, as seen in the pic.
Then there's the jigsaw work to make the hole, fishoil the gap, cold gal or killrust the bare metal edges, then there's a interior trim piece to make up for the inside finish. Some rivets and some Sikaflex sealant and ... perhaps thats the whole job.
Sounds easy. I bet it isn't. We'll see when I get around to it.
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Here you go Ross.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Handpresso-Auto-Premium-Set-12-Volt-Espresso-Machine-Black-Best-Gift-Genuine-New-/281712180761?hash=item41975abe19:g:oUIAAOSwe-FU~~u4
I like these french presses. I found the were well made so you don't get grounds in your coffee. They come in three sizes, I use the small one for car camping but it's a bit heavy to backpack.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frieling-French-Press-0103-6-5-6-Cups-Coffee-Maker-Silver-/142010441900
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Then there's the jigsaw work to make the hole, fishoil the gap, cold gal or killrust the bare metal edges, then there's a interior trim piece to make up for the inside finish. Some rivets and some Sikaflex sealant and ... perhaps thats the whole job.
Sounds easy. I bet it isn't. We'll see when I get around to it.
What strikes me is how much more difficult these vents must make getting the front wing panels off.
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I put a footwell vent in my County 110 about 20 years ago, it wasn't a 5 minute job either cheers Dennis
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Just got back from a short camping sojurn in the northern Flinders Ranges.
The dual awnings worked brilliantly and the side table was a success, but it is too big to carry! It would be fine on the roof rack, but that is where one of my solar panels is mounted.
I'm looking at how to make it smaller, but still useable.
The solar worked brilliantly for the time I was away.
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Looks bloody terrific mate !!
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Tops! These pics will get me thru this week's shifts. The first photo is my favorite but its hard to choose.
I think that is worthy of a "LRCV" stencil, badge or something.
The awnings work well as can be seen.
The contact number for the canvas maker who made that batch is available (PM me). He is in NSW northern rivers area where AWOL was.
The original order for AWOL are all sold, I know because I tried to get more for another member.
cheers
8)
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Tops! These pics will get me thru this week's shifts. The first photo is my favorite but its hard to choose.
*snip*
cheers
8)
Never tire of seeing any part of Oz. I just wish I was on the other side of the lens.
Oh yeah, nice annex as well. :)
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Here you go Ross. Just for you.
https://oxx.com/thecoffeeboxx/
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Nice setup there Alan. After seeing your pictures I want to go tripping again.
Cheers
Rod
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Here you go Ross. Just for you.
https://oxx.com/thecoffeeboxx/
Thx for that, bit of a tease though, its only 120V.
I used to have a 12v jug when I was a travelling rep for NSW, and it was sort of ok, but never actually managed a rolling boil - not enough juice in a Falcon perhaps.
This week I was looking at videos of a little ceramic manual coffee grinder, the tall Percolax. I have a little GSI brand dripper ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmtVGVwUxWM
...that holds a filter. I have a gas burner to heat the water...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzK5v2Mwlhs
.. and now I have just got to get beans and a hand manual grinder.
This week I also order a small 'rocket stove'. Its interesting how NASA technology eventually trickles down to the masses. (No, actually its nothing to do with them at all).
If the rocket works I can perhaps leave the LPG gear at home and just take the rocket. It means using the axe a bit more than first planned, but I hope to adapt it to make a hot shower using a copper coil as well...
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Rocket Stove didn't arrive. According to the tracker info it was picked up from Wagga then went to Melbourne depot to be able to get on a truck to Sydney depot. Sydney depot sends the freight to Canberra, not Melbourne. What a joke.
Meanwhile, I got a coffee grinder, hand operated ceramic Porlex (sp?) from Japan, as per youtube instructions. Tried it this morning at work for the first time, using Expresso beans that smelt great -- and it was good. Hooked.
Also, the helper springs. Ordering this week.
Here is a RFSV pic used in the AQIS pam.
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Ok, some updates.
Coffee. I ordered a Aeropress from Sydney. There are demo vids on youtube..
Springs and shocks. I spoke with Brad at KLR and Wayne T. from up the street and got feedback and experience. Wayne went with the KLR recommended Tough Dogs. Setting 5 for a loaded up LRCV on the bitumen & hwy and soft setting 1 for on the CSR and other off road. Brad advised that the rear springs that don't stuff up with lots of load are the LR 110 cab chassis (aka trayback) springs.
Roof rack. Made measurements twice and picked up steel this week. Some pre-lim work is planned tomorrow...
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Ive got the tough dogs as well Carzee, and have been pretty pleased. I usually run them at about 7 on the road and 2 off the bitumen. There was some pretty rubbish roads up in the gulf and they did well. Just dont forget to stiffen them back up on the bitumen, the difference in handling is quite a worry!
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Today I prepped and "painted" Maggie the rooftop with some plasti-dip. Its US cam green.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JuH7h5yAE8lE_yZfDe39EHip-N_NSuIXDYIBOitHesrTqgZOyn6ItX01ij264m2UdEk0Meak5TNs87Jh97WRlYgpa-3L73GUWmHdqDH09qwHvrfPzODzLl56PLsM1pRovIt2SSwmHbXaa4iaHX7lnTQdDlmzm3aDKbO1W9HwNzI2qpzYoFlJ70G4DkX0wFsnvzLBjSh4RQlZg4lr_LL4aOikWMxSk98mSU3JP5rB0L6QlaEOUQZmEjr6bSHBqiSyfP2XhjNipykWbgv_hu13rl2t7MuJ4iQYuLcavsc9viAOh940JVka4FnLpk86bWgWu37nMIQG7kiO4zpdv-vbmxwDksr43OHAOhX8ZwLibu_XNeRAi4GeG4jQ2Vz_QE_XZA83OVWzlWUV6ycM58gjG8hrzkjgQB7opWmIJppAE1mbFzO5WrKHYb0pPgvrfOM03WtMJmyTZKktp5jTOE2n55gw9_L_koit0qmi9Z8ef_mDnOFgVCIbTyxRgRImM0qsio9y_WhM1FQjZdH_mnSWPBGl64Jk=w1289-h929-no)
Hi Carzee,
How does your 'Maggie' roof top tent look on the Perentie. I am looking at getting one for mine. Love to see some images of how you have mounted it.
Regards Warrick.
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Hi Warwick, Maggie is not up there as yet, the rack work is not done - but Wayne T. carried out some some preliminary roof rack work this afternoon on his day off, measuring everything twice and doing string lines etc, getting the pieces ready for welding. Many thanks Wayne. I helped a little. We are in the first stage, replacing the canopy railings between the front and rear ROPS bars. This will stabilise or stiffen up the ROPS properly, make it easier to access gear from the sides of the tub, and neaten up the canopy profile. All without modifying the ROPS or the tub in any way. It uses the same bolts as the original hoops. Today's fitting up and trials were all done in the carport in about 9 or 10 degrees.
I did get a couple of pics, maybe I'll put them up tomorrow.
In the middle of that I had to go to quick Dr. appointment I had arranged and leave Wayne to it. (Unfortunately I have being seeing a few med people lately, ever since that morning we did the sunrise video). While in the waiting room there was an email from a friend, like a secret santa or a genie, and in a blink we have brought a Superwinch X9 each! A bit exciting. (Heavy things. Still don't know the freight charges as yet).
So, some progress today for sure.
Also today the postie delivered the Aeropress coffee brewer thing (didn't get a chance to try it, just a look). And the machete arrived. Its impressive (sharp!)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSn09kJRHyZBQU6PAYSo73g
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Thumbs up for the Aeropress (made in the USA). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AeroPress
Had the first coffee in it this morning and it works out well.
edit - update
well its one month of use, well into the 2nd kilo of beans. This thing is awesome, having the best coffees at local lookouts etc. Buy one!
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:)
Big day for deliveries today:
ARB onboard compressor
Superwinch x9
4 Hema maps
Tyre irons and tyre repair plugs
4 new shockies from Tough Dog
Engel 40litre Legacy model on special (which means a solar panel is in our future)
weatherproof SB40s from http://www.andersonconnect.com.au
in-line 12v power draw monitors http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/391398700856?
The canopy "redo" is all done and even painted.
Just did a oil and filter change (other items to service this weekend).
We need a KLR winch bracket and springs but may wait until the Expo in Sept.
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One little job I did do before a arvo shift - just some wet n dry rubbing back and then some Protec green.
Details: weatherproof, rechargable thru ciggy lighter or mains. LED 800+ Lumens. Bunnings, $37. 24cm H, 15cm W
I'll let you know in 2018 if its still going ok. I could fit a square trailer stop light lens and get red light out of it I suppose...
update: just got a 2nd one at different Bunnings for $22, so the av. is $30 and I see them on feebay for $49 delivered.
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Should keep the bogong moths happy 😊
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Nice one Carzee - Looks good - try an offset yellow lens - the lens needs good ventilation and really helps in reducing some of the unwanted flying and biting guests at meals times.
Frank
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To achieve the yellow effect I could use spotlight gels, I have some from a studio. Cut and trim to fit I hope.
Also, the solar panel question.
Feebay is awash with flexible 100w chinese solar panels. I was thinking it could be stashed flat under the canopy (against the ceiling) or I get get a folding one.
Has anyone tried a cheap flexi panel off feebay? Do they last 2 years?
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Late in the day pics from the other week (before the rack for the top gets started).
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G'day, did you have more pics of the roof job? What did you use for the roof lining? It looks really neat.
Cheers Gordo
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(PM was sent.)
We attended the LR Expo at Camden recently and the "canopy roof redo" was noticed and admired by quite a few keen owners - many good comments - and I supplied the contact details for Wayne who has the jig and experience making the frame for the colorbond.
For a few reasons (easy quick build mainly), we put Maggie up on top of our trailer above all the swap meet stuff and had our first overnighter. Shoes were an issue. After climbing the ladder the question is where to stash them so they are nice and handy to descend again in the morning. We had thought ahead and stashed the shoes inside shopping bags (after taking them off once sitting at the entrance). The shopping bags hung off the internal metal crossbar using an ocky strap. It was about midnight when we pulled up at Camden and took only a few minutes to get set up and in bed.
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Last month I got a $132 100w solar panel from feebay (tested it in the sun - meets specs on my meter - and in overcast conditions as well) and a RedArc controller and DC DC charger. Solar gear goes to the install job list. Also a water hose filter http://www.bestwaterfilters.com.au
Also thinking about a flat pack above ground fire pit, see myswag forum: http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=48965.0
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Yesterday a set of rear discs were installed (KLR kit from the Expo). Along the way I learnt something about the wheel bearings and the seals involved. I will get a spare set for the trip, just-in-case.
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Got the new shockies fitted front and rear. Also new helper springs on the rear and replacement of the rear axle brake pipes. Other parts incoming in the next few days.
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BTW, the front shocks were Monroes dated 2011. The rear shocks were dated July 1990, ie, they were the original set. Only 26 yrs old.. All of them were marked Monroe and made in Australia with the part numbers BYG4001 (F) , BYG4000 (R)
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Looks GREAT!
Are those rear disks the same parts as used on the front?
Did you mod. the trailer with a tailgate? Great popup tent.
Phil
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Hi Phil. No they are not the same as the front. The 4pot calipers and rotors that the KLR kit uses could be Range Rover or Disco, I don't know.
The trailer has zero mods and the rack was a bit of a trial run exercise for the Perentie.
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Hi all,
I drove the CSR Sept 2015 with 2 other GS Perenties and 4 boys under 13 from south to north. starting Melb and return we did 10,000km with no major stuff ups. we had basic setups and 1 trailer.....
my comments on the CSR trip:
we took our own fuel (no fuel dump from Newman) which for me was 8? steel jerrys strapped down behind my head side to side nice and snug with 1 tiedown strap through the handles. coreflute panels from Bunnings cut to size between each tank and the vehicle, no probs over the trip. I used a giggler hose to file the vehicle from each tank most times. I had one fuel jerry on the back, the other was water. out of the 250litres approx of fuel. I had 20 litres left by the mid fuel point at Billiluna community.
I carried 180 litres of water in 20lt drums and one 70lt black flat container from BFC, on the rear floor with the spare wheel but if you are successful the water wells provide an abundance of fresh water along the way
standard tyres and rims being a mix of Michelin and brigestone on the vehicles tubes are a real pain as the sand works in and punctures you. we had a number of tyre carcases and a tyre changer, but did not ever rip up a tyre.
I carries only the single battery, no one had solar as we were always moving
the canvas tops are magnificent, always sides rolled up and door windows out nice breeze in the heat (sept), laughing at the aircon Toyotas coming through (or visa versa). its mostly sand not dust.
my fridge was a trailer blazer from norcoast, the most magnificent thing and so efficient and short cycling.
we lost 2 rear shocks from going too fast on the same day. but were often travelling 35 to 60kph on corrigations. lost my wing guards and dash unscrewed itself... that's it
used hema maps and had a renta sat phone. kids had a blast.
cheers
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here are a couple of canning stock route CSR shots
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on the CSR
2 vehicles had KLR turbo's to pull the trailer. mine was non turbo and had the tow bar deliberately off it!
excellent half tonne standard trailer but you don't need one. many dead trailers on the CSR as a reminder.
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Thanks for a good report on a wonderful trip. Congrats, 3 Perenties on the CSR. Fabulous. Makes my day here at work. Anymore pics?
Some questions for you. What was Durba Springs like - some say it is the highlight. How much was diesel at Wiluna, Billiluna and Halls Creek etc? Did you do the Kimberley or turn right and come back on the Tanami? Any clutch worries or axle worries? Any rain? Were the winches ever used?
Cheers.
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thanks Carzee
in my last post I mentioned Billiluna as the half point for us, incorrect this was our end point on the CSR due to bush fires on the Tanami to Halls Creek. but I did limp into town with less than 20 litres and refilled at $3.20 per litre - happy to! from here we drove to Alice.
here is a photo of my security patrol on duty protecting valuable cargo, yes we are Victorians.
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Carzee,
Durba Springs is a true oasis in the dessert. so lush after days of sand and scrub it just opens up in a canyon of grass and trees, but there are mini oasis sss along the way too.
a photo of one of our team returning from collecting wood. camo on camo
I must say that the CSR will destroy your 'duco' paint job ie scratch it as prior vehicles break scrub bush into sharp splinters on narrow tracks, watch those elbows
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Carzee,
no clutch or axle probs, one or two snap straps over dunes in 10 days of driving. dunes are big but not monsters. the trailer did cause some gearbox stress
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no rain on our CSR trip but we drove through some dry sections that were big and boggy in recent times getting you know where and drinking juice.
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Trying to be artistic in the WA goldfields
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Thx all for the photos. Excellent.
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Carzee,
no clutch or axle probs, one or two snap straps over dunes in 10 days of driving. dunes are big but not monsters. the trailer did cause some gearbox stress
G'day Tim, I've been reading your posts with interest as it looks like I may be on the CSR next year.
I note that you refer to gearbox stress with the the trailer. I was hoping you could relate what was happening in this regard and let us know the approximate payload you had in the trailer please
thanks - Laurie
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:) This week the diesel supply side was serviced and inspected at Series Workshop for an hour. This is all part of the ongoing 150,000km major service. I learnt quite a bit which was the aim.
I purchased a new P-I-T-A 17mm Banjo Bolt for the bottom of the transfer pump (bolt comes with the plastic filter) but mine was 99.9% clean and it appeared the Army had replaced it prior to the auction, so now I have a spare. There was one spec of carbon, thats all.
Isuzu part 5157590270, $18.96
Used a new pair of Banjo bolt washers with rubber seals, part 9095720140, $1.17 each
Used a new Fuel Filter cartridge up beside the rocker cover, Fleetguard FF5114, $9.95
Used a set of Sedimeter seals, Top AAU9902, Bottom AAU9903, about $4 each. The bowl was a bit murky with aluminium stains but otherwise pretty good.
Immediately afterwards the Yaris got a workout going down to Melbourne to visit family. On the return trip the Yaris saved $160 freight charge on some new tyres which were on special for $215. I got interested in 235/85/16 as my Perentie mate uses them (Hankook Dynapro MT) and they are proving very good value in his experience. I will put them on a 2015 set of LR factory alloys (after I paint them). Yes, it turns out a Yaris shopping hatch can safely fit a set of 5 tyres and 2 adults! One negative -the smell of the rubber for the 8 hour trip.
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Whats the hourly rate at the Series Workshop?
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Its under 150 an hour at the moment but you can contact the front desk and get a quote if you need something overhauled or serviced:
http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au
update a week later - the clutch began slipping, well, more accurately, the pressure plate was the problem (original 1990 part). A new clutch pressure plate and clutch obtained from KLRautomotive was fitted:
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=4672.0
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:)
This week at http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au some appropriate mods to make better use of last month's upgrade to rear discs brakes from KLR and the HD clutch: a KLR Turbo kit was fitted. But we're not quite finished. The exhaust is still in transit.
Also incl. is a pic showing the LR Boost Alloys and Dyna-Pro M/T to suit. (won't fit without more work)
Third pic shows the Mudflaps are off. They looked like they could fall off due to the rubber at the boltholes becoming more and more cracked.
ps, My ply prototype tailboard. It lays flat (forward) onto aux fuel jerrys and is a simple thing using footman loops and ockys. Its quickly removable to use as a board for making a cuppa. So far I like it and I'm aiming for a metal version with rubber seal fitted (just like side-locker lids). Last pic also shows that I should paint the rear axle.
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Hi Carezz,
She's coming along beautifully and I reckon the alloys look pretty good - right choice of colour in my opinion 👍
Good work ! 😊👍
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Saturday, whilst awaiting the new exhaust, we worked on the roof rack. Wayne nutted out the rack mounts and design and the result is in the photos.. then we called it a day. Too many long shifts lately. Maybe some more work this Saturday.
I will note the rack details here in case I need the info one day: the mount tabs (for the bolts into the ROPS) are 4mm thick. The holes for the mount rubbers (MYH3383) were punched 22mm diameter at the metalshop (4 punches $20). The tabs were bent 6deg at a engineering shed (4 for $25). (The bend was to compensate for the angle of the ROPS). Fresh hi-tensile bolts (65mm long M6 8mm course thread) were sourced with some hi-tensile washers too. They thread into 16mm long rivnuts (with the same 8mm course thread). The "front to rear" side bars (connecting the front main ROPS bar to the rear ROPS bar) are 3mm thick 35mm x 35mm SHS. The bars are slightly different in length: Pgr side, mount hole ctr to ctr 1797mm and the Drv side, mount hole ctr to ctr 1800mm and there is 25mm between the hole ctrs and the ends of each side bar as the punched/bent mount tabs are 50mm wide and 85mm long. The 4 "crossbars", placed at 90deg to the side bars and parrallel to the ROPS bars, are 990 long, 2mm thick 50mm x 25mm RHS and they are mounted 467mm (ctr to ctr) equidistant starting with the rear "crossbar" position ("crossbar" number 4) which is 350mm from the end of the 1800 long "front to rear" side bars.
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Mechanical update....
Many thanks -once again- to Johnny. We had a big afternoon at
http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au aka The Fyshwick Land Rover Club.
The exhaust was fitted up by Johnny and then we took a testdrive -had to drive 10 mins to find a decent hill- and adjusted the setting for fuel. All good. IMHO the turbo is very much worth it. At 150,350km 4393hrs this Perentie was transformed. :)
As others here have said, if you are thinking about it, do not hesitate, just do it.
Turbo threads -
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=1618.0
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=4689.0
Along the way the heater hoses were renewed (used longer hose than was supplied by KLR to have absolutely no tension and to route the hoses better near the air filter drum), the red and white vacuum lines for the CDL were secured better and placed inside protective hose where the lines go behind the driver-side-end of the air filter drum, and the hydraulic line for the slave clutch was insulated where the 2.5inch exhaust pipe comes within 5 or 6 inches as a precaution.
Mech jobs done...
Rad hoses, heater hoses, block flush
Engine & diesel line filters & lubes
4 Shocks & helper rear coils
Rear discs fitted, axle oils, breathers, all 4 disc pads
SSteel re-sleeved master cyls and slave clutch
Heavy duty clutch and PPlate
Turbo & exhaust & air filter drum mod
Pwr Str
Snorkel Fitting
Roof rack
Pedal Lock
Inspection of front end: cv, swivel seals, bearings, bushes, + longer studs. (jan17)
Next mech jobs...
Fit a new cored radiator (not by Natrad). Maybe fit an upgraded alternator and new belt too.
Injector service, tuning.
Fit bonnet lock.
Fuel Cap Lock.
Elec jobs...
Fridge wire.
Lucas Insp. Light socket and pins (eg water pump).
Winch wires.
ARB air comp.
Air horn.
Cabin fan
Solar reg and battery charger, and fuses
Fridge and usb and water pump power jacks
................all the elec work will be low vis or behind the scenes.
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Sounds like quite the list! What style heater core do you have? Straight pipes or turn down pipes?
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Turn down pipes.
I will add some photos to the post above.
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Sunday didn't go ahead, so we're still half done on the rack.
Meanwhile the flatpack firepit arrived. Fits my Hillbilly BBQ plate as you can see and should minimise smoke due to air draw holes. Packed down it will get strapped down under the "center console".
Some AULRO members got onto to the flatpack firepit a while back: its from a Melb area member of the MySwag forum
http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=48965.0
I got the BBQ plate at the local 4wd spectacular. No grill as I bbq all things egg, tomato, bacon, hamburger etc.
Link for "BBQ plate, steel, Hotplate for 3 burner stove" 540mm x 300mm weight 4.2Kg
http://campingwithhillbilly.com/bbq.php
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Hi Ross,
Mate that set up is a bloody beauty !
Could you please let me know contact details for the fould up fire pit ?
I like it alot.
cheers,
Mick
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The bbq is 3mm i think, 12kg, going to last. Aluminium doesnt do it and cast is a tad heavy.
The firepit is 2.5mm plate and is also going to last- it comes from Reservoir Melb. with a bit of a fightback story against decisions by gmh and ford.
Quote:
Have a batch of fire-pits available at $80.00 plus postage. Pick up from Reservoir is optional. Weight is 12 kg. These are manufactured from 2.5mm hot rolled Australian steel, laser-cut and press braked.
We are a metal manufacturing company for the Automotive industry which is the process of closing down. I developed these pits about 3 years ago and have now offered them to the company I work for to try and generate some employment after Ford shut down and Holden cease manufacture of the Cruze in the next few months.
I have over 300 hours burn time on mine and cook on it most weekends. No ash on the ground.
Less than 1 minute to assemble, no tools required and packs flat for storage.
Flat packed size is 600 x 300 x 50mm. Package size is 620 x 320 x 60 from post code 3073. Australia post have a postage calculator on the web and there is no charge for packaging and handling, you're just up for the postage.
I use tent pegs to sit the camp oven, billy or hot plate on and also use a grate made from an old BBQ plate when cooking to raise the heat beads / charcoal off the bottom.
Cheers
Rob
more pics and info at http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=48965.0
.... I like it for not leaving a mark on the grass at farmstays and other private camps where no amenities are provided to keep charges low. We stay at caravan parks sometimes but keep it at a minimum.
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8) officially soft now, drove home this afternoon from http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au with power steering fitted. Woo hoo. Many thanks for an excellent job by Johnny.
I won't bother with pics, there are quite a few threads out there explaining the parts and fitting needed.
eg http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=2815.0
We got the pump, brackets and HP hoses from Johnny, a reservoir bottle from a backyarder in Seaford (Melb) and the 4 bolt box from Penrith (Syd).
[I think we may be the last Perentie to have Power Steering fitted -seems used PS bits were sold out at 4 places not counting other places that don't return phone call enquiries, probably because they are out as well.]
Also, thanks to Wayne for more welding on the roof rack between shifts today...
Also thanks to Peter W, REMLR member SEQ, for a RFSV rear step/pintle protector. Its fitted already.
So thats a couple more things off the list.
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Good weather weekend meant Wayne finished the rack. It was test fitted today. Its very strong and will cope with miles of corrugations no worries. And if we ever need a short steel bridge in a zombie escape emergency, I think we're good!!
Now it has to be sanded and primed/painted. As a bare rack, with nothing loaded on it at all, it even looks sort of military, looks non-civvy. I thought about colour choice for a minute, and decided it has to be OD.
New roof rack rubbers will be used (thanks Rod /Towoomba).
Washers... after checking Pedders and Spec. Fastners and Supacheap and wreckers we finally got lucky at Bunnings in our quest for 2mm thick big strong flat washers. These fit on top of the four rubbers at each corner for the four mounting bolts into the ROPS. To fit properly they will need to be cut down on one edge using the grinder.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/3-8zp-zenith-3-8-x2-x12-pbx10-ebp1012_p2420942
Also Wayne and I lashed out on some extra security: X-Defend Pedal Lock.
http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=65_1756&product_id=141
Wayne has recently had two middle of the night bandits (chased off after silent alarms tripped). I have had one car theft and an attempted theft... and then there have also been smash n grabs in the past as well. (Got used to installing side windows in the cars.) Should arrive next week. Expensive freight... worked out to be $333 each all up.
I think a series bonnet lock would be good to install as well.
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Today I fitted a pair of new rear mudflaps, black.
I have looked at the current offerings of the BTR277 part and didn't go for them.
I used the originals as a template, only I cut them 500mm long (about 100mm longer than the old ones) and its slightly thicker at 6.4mm (sourced locally in the industrial area). $19.50
When fitting on the rear driverside I discovered that above a little metal mud shield (fitted horizontally immediately to the rear of the mudflap mount and in front of the rear combo light bracket), is a ratnest of wiring loom, the leftover bits of the civvy defender loom they used in the initial build. If I ever get mysterious loom troubles I now know one place to look.
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Stevie left Canberra early, drove up to Newie and purchased his first Landy, a Perentie FFR, a month older than ours, ARN 50-169.
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=3702.0
Meanwhile, we had another busy day, we fitted the Pedal Lock. Took our time to take the floor out and put the mount holes in exactly the right place. Thank you Wayne, the fit is like factory.
Next chance we get we'll have to do the one going on Wayne's GS.
Here's a youtube vid of a demo in UK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8obMwdaV2j8
update - after two days I already like the pedal lock a lot, it feels so solid and the latch/catch works without fuss. I did Locktite the little screw in the back of the lock mech and where the lock mech is held in its position in a slot in the stainless steel using one of those large diameter thin hex nuts you have to tighten up with your fingers and multigrips. Bit fiddly there.
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Its been a busy December and now we're on our way into 2017.
Before Christmas the pedal lock was fitted as posted above and the short snorkel was fitted.
The snorkel was possible because Johnny at http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au fabricated the mount on top of the mudguard using a plate he has CNC'd and cut and a bit of pipe. I call it "Johnny's Joiner". This is the second one he has had done - the first one, on his GS, was successful so he has made some more.
The air induction hose (still available new and 1200mm long) was fitted from under the bracket to Mr Air Filter Drum.
I gave "Johnny's Joiner" a bit of a sanding where the pipe was cut and welded, a coat of anti-rust, some rubber sealant and fitted it on.
So we have a short RFSV schnorkel and... its a bit different.
Over Christmas the turbo and schnnnnorkel got their first highway workout and shakedown. No probs and 27.4mpg aka 10.3 litres per 100km.
Also the roof rack paint had a few days to dry.
Yesterday, NY eve, we did some prelim fit and check of the electric winch. We didn't get to the point of the exercise however - next time. The question is whether the lower 50mm of the grille panel will need to be cut off. We'll see.
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Today I trial fitted the KLR winch mounting plate and the bit of spacer plate supplied. The spacer is the same thickness steel as the winch plate.
How did it turn out?
A.
the early issue coathanger roobar has to go if we are to use the bigger diameter bolts because the four bolt holes in the roobar mount plate are not accurate enough to allow the bolts to go through the chassis bolt holes. I could rat tail file the four holes but it is better left alone. I can put the roobar aside and use it another time perhaps. The alternative bar, a early issue RFSV bullbar I have, fits perfectly using the bigger diameter bolts. Its dead on four the chassis mounting holes. The bullbar is a lot stronger of course and double the weight of the roobar (or more) but now we have more power under the bonnet so it not so much of an issue.
B.
the winch needs 20mm more space as will hit the lower grille panel - the grill has to come out and get trimmed. Dervish has a good lot of photos showing how he did his grille panel mod for 48-010 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/235226-fitting-pto-winch-perentie.html
C.
four of the bigger bolts would be safer/better if they were 50mm long not 40mm. All the bolts should be 10.9 too.
D.
the winch mount plate will need a little trim on the two corners at the top as the plate fouls the bullbar reinforcement piece.
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Hi Carzee, The flaps look the goods, watch your mudflaps if you have to back out of a bog, As they may get under the tyre and get ripped off. Have had it happen when I did the same thing..
Bob...
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Hi Bob, yes I saw a defender the other day with a gal chain attached, looked simple enough. There's one on YTube too.
Today I took the top corner 6mm thick winch mount brackets to the metal shop to get them hole punched, checked for steel sizes to bend up to mount the Maxtrax over the cab (got the Mtrax bolts yesterday.)
Removed the steering guard/bashplate under the winch and took it to the Series Workshop to get unbashed on the press.
Also called in to the local LR Dealer looking for special rubbers for Stevie's Perentie roof rack. Nil stock in the whole Aust system.
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Also called in to the local LR Dealer looking for special rubbers for Stevie's Perentie roof rack. Nil stock in the whole Aust system.
They are shock bushes, when I was looking at one recently a resident Ford nut said they look like Falcon ones. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SHOCK-ABSORBER-BUSHES-FRONT-UPPER-SUITS-FORD-BRONCO-CHECK-APPLICATION-BELOW-x4-/121483798196?hash=item1c48ffa6b4:g:dlkAAOSwEK9TvzUQ
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Yes thanks for the info. I have a set I stashed in 2014 (via Rod in Toowoomba via local LR Dealer) and the numbers on the bushes checked out as being Tenneco-Monroe OEM, but Made In China now, and still sold as a kit SMP312, a single bush which is in a bag with nut and washers. Hmmm.
I also checked with my B-I-Law who was on a Ford dealer parts desk for over 15 years and he says definitely top rubber bush, rear shockies, XF falcon. (That certainly fits Perentie production period and we know other items such as the Brake Master Cyl is Falcon too).
update-
I went to Rare Spares - a set of four "Falcon upper rear shock bushes" is $7 over the counter. The bush has a central lip which fits the mount hole (22mm) snugly and the bolt hole in the center is correct size... but they are more like door stop size being a smaller diameter and smaller thickness overall (30mm diameter, 14mm thick on the rim/the edge) than the set I had stashed (40mm diameter, 15mm thick on the rim/the edge). So they fit perfectly fine but are smaller diameter and thickness.
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Thanks for the tip, Carzee.
Saves a few people getting ripped off on EBay by unscrupulous monopolists.
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Agreed.
LR Dealer stock check also showed over 100 army hi-lift jacks on the books.
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=1979.0
I asked the price and I got just one. I paid retail not trade. Incl. gst it was $201.40 off the counter.
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Superwinch fitting has been the main activity during Friday, Saturday and Sunday between work. The early problem was clearing the grille panel and I ended up getting two 10mm spacers made using the 6mm spacers as templates. We then tac welded them to the corner bits supplied by KLR and tried it out. No go. The clutch lever sticks out of one end of the winch and it fouled a corner of the front chassis. The space between the north-south chassis bars was only just big enough too. The first idea was to raise the winch about 40mm to clear the clutch lever/chassis corner -it did fit better but still a hassle. Wayne slept on it and nutted out the solution; read the booklet. The end of the winch which has the lever can be unbolted, turned 90deg., and bolted back up. This solved the fouling but still its a close thing at each end. The locally made 10mm spacer bars worked well - the rear of the winch clears the lower 40mm of the grille panel by 0.5mm or some similar measurement needing an electron microscope to be accurate. The supplied 6mm spacer bars will be trimmed down and used as backing plates for the main 4 bolts which are 80mm M12 10.9
Its all tested and ready to go thanks to Wayne without whose skills nothing could have worked. I will paint bolt heads and washers tomorrow after work to get it looking ok and installation should be midweek after sizing up some cables and finding out how to get them up front safely and in a tidy manner (crossing my fingers). The cabling should be the easiest part.
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Maxtrax.
We got a single pair of Maxtrax in the OD colour last winter when there was a special price offer. This week I got the necessary special bolts that hold the Maxtrax on a rack. This is because we tried fitting the Maxtrax at a variety of positions on the outside and the inside of the LRCV.
In the end we decided to stash them outside and above the canopy over the front seats. To do that we'll have a little horseshoe shape steel section made up to continue 500mm forward from the existing rack bars (35x35 SHS). We will get a 2m section and have it bent to fit. Should turn out ok, just a bare section, no mesh, painted, and sitting above the cabin seats. When the Maxtrax are up there they may offer a bit of shade to the canopy too. We'll see.
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Shouldn't bother planning things. One day at a time.
Can't do the winch up - the LRCV is getting a oil leak fixed.
In October the rear stub axle was the center of attention when a rear disc brake kit was fitted. A lefthand side Corteco seal has leaked (which is unusual), and the oil trail goes down the rotor surface. So its all come back off for new seals and to find out what caused the leak. Turned out the seal is being damaged by a spot of corrosion on the stub surface.
While we have it apart again I am having the 60mm studs fitted.
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Update on the current work.
The new stub is on and the 60mm studs are in. I now have plenty of std 45mm spares. The rear diff guard was dropped into the workshop today. While we're using the hoist its a need rather than a want. Its a Terrafirma skidplate, TF853. (incidentally, the front diff guard was purchased used but in new condition from a Disco owner in 2015. Its a Graeme Cooper product).
The front studs meant a "swivels off" job. The swivels are going back on all nice and new looking after a sandblast and repaint.
While inspecting the front end bearings, Forensics Snr Detective Johnny (CSI Fyshwick) uncovered some evidence to a roadside assault and battery. :) Some temporary repair work had been done on the passenger front end (probably a roadside repair to get back to base) and it had not been followed through (out of sight out of mind). Back a few months when the front diff oil was drained it was a nasty colour and consistency. "Thats not good" to quote Johnny. A new constant velocity joint (von Deutschland), and wheel bearings have been ordered.
After the recond. radiator is in, and a 100A Alternator, this Landy could be "in reasonably good mechanical condition". Except for a injectors service, and HD flanges, axles, diffs, HD turrets, uni-joints... it never ends.
In the meantime, the warmer weather, new wet n dry paper and a fresh can of etch primer on the desk would indicate its time for more painting... but no, I have been busy with 50A Anderson plugs and cabling ideas for the PCB, the Plastic Circuit Board. The PCB will be a 12v electrical accessory board and will be as low vis as possible. It will be hinge mounted and easily removable and accessible I hope. It will house some fuses, the fridge power, the USB power, the retro pins power for the water pump, and some LED lights.
Retro power points (Lucas red and black Insp Lamp or Aux Power Pins) will go in the rear tub near the ROPS at the front and down the back. Has anyone seen how expensive the Lucas retro power points have become?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-2-2a-Dash-Inspection-Lamp-Sockets-Plug-273937-273936-/282267198922?
If you avoid feebay you can save money here. If you search for the Lucas part number not the Land Rover part number, that may help as well. eg:
https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/960-dashboard-socket-and-plugs-equal-pins
I'm not 100pc on the Lucas part numbers. Could be CAB378 and CAB379.
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Took some pics today, mainly to do with the half shaft snafu. The darker one is the correct (new) part. The shiny one with spline damage was installed by who-knows-who and who-knows-when.
Also the rear diff guard went on, with some dremel work on the casing being needed. Also a pic of the front diff guard which has been on over a year now.
Definitely need to paint the axles.
Speaking of paint, yesterday James called in at the Protec paint outlet in the Camden area and brought home my paint order - 8 rattle cans of cam paint for $114.
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:) here we are 2 weeks later. Went fast. Still haven't reached 40 here, but it has been warm.
Things done:
Spare shock bushes (1 set) obtained from TD.
Cables and switches purchased. Winch getting closer.
Bonnet lock arrived. Looks ok, fit soon.
Wheel rims sandblasted, heavy zinc coated, painted.
Canopy roof holed and grommets fitted for the 4 ROPS bolts that hold the roof rack.... I searched thru about 7 tubs and footlockers thinking I had the right size grommet kit ----lo and behold I was right (wasted an hour finding it). Tenacity.
After the canopy was back on and trued up, the LRPV roof rack went on.
Then, with a team effort including James and Steven and Kay... (drumroll and ceremonial artillery salute) "Maggie" went from being on top of the trailer to being on top of the Perentie. Excellent.
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This morning we attached a toggle rope each side and tied on the awnings.
Then we went out for a Sunday morning cuppa at local scenic spot. Maggie's first drive: we watched the awnings when doing 100kmph to see if they would flap around much. Didn't move. A little extra drag was felt but no probs.
Wherever you park, other Landy owners appear :)
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Ok, some updates.
Coffee. I ordered a Aeropress from Sydney. There are demo vids on youtube..
Springs and shocks. I spoke with Brad at KLR and Wayne T. from up the street and got feedback and experience. Wayne went with the KLR recommended Tough Dogs. Setting 5 for a loaded up LRCV on the bitumen & hwy and soft setting 1 for on the CSR and other off road. Brad advised that the rear springs that don't stuff up with lots of load are the LR 110 cab chassis (aka trayback) springs.
Roof rack. Made measurements twice and picked up steel this week. Some pre-lim work is planned tomorrow...
Carzee how are you finding the Tough Dog suspension. I went with Tough Dog too and love it, it's like a totally different car. Doesn't feel like it wants to roll over on every corner
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Well all new shocks make a noticable difference, and these TDs certainly do make it drive like new, but the benefit I'm looking for out of the Tough Dogs is that they keep working well, and keep working, and they don't complain for a long time.
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You have achieved a lot in 10 months Carzee. You must be happy, it's looking great and you have kept to your plan. One day I might be able to park beside yours around Brisbane someday. Are you finished now?
Cheers Phil
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Getting closer to being ready.
Job list redone, from upthread:
Mech:
Front vent seals.
Injector service, tuning. (deleted - KLR persuaded me its not needed).
Fit bonnet lock. (fit soon).
Fuel Cap Lock. (nice to have not a need to have)
Fit new Radiator thats sitting in footlocker. And anti-freeze.
Door Locks adjust.
Elec jobs...
Fridge wiring.
Lucas Insp. Light socket and pins (eg water pump) and assoc. blade fuse box.
Winch wires.
ARB air comp. Hose outlet ctr rear.
Air horn. needs custom fab bracket.
Cabin fan.
Solar reg and battery charger, and fuses
................all the elec work will be low vis or behind the scenes, except solar (next summer?)
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The bonnet security was something that I addressed by installing the "civilian" cable using the standard 110 parts and retaining the leaver as is. Easily done. Cost about $40.oo for parts.
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I have had a falcon or two and commys too and cable bonnet releases have always been a hassle. Maybe I should have had new cars not old ones. Anyway, we have gone with Aerocatches for the bonnet. They are low profile and once they are olive drab they should fairly well be un-noticable. http://www.aerocatch.com
This afternoon, despite hot weather and setbacks, the new rubber and rims for the trip went on.
"Believe it or Not" dept - the little red yaris seen in the background is the one that brought those 5 tyres home from melbourne.
I think we will rename the Landy "Milo" (Protec cam brown is fast becoming my fav cam colour).
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I think we will rename the Landy "Milo" (Protec cam brown is fast becoming my fav cam colour).
Anything but Milo!
(http://www.4wdaction.com.au/_phpBB/download/file.php?id=91872&t=1)
*shudder*
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:o ick, full of character they say.
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Got the time to top up the tyre pressures to 350 and take it for a run to get pics at Glenloch. I am liking the look of Maggie on top and the side awnings. Its worked out beaut IMHO. I may get the roof rack rear extension (overhead bar) and the front extension bar (for the maxtrax) done in time for Corowa.
update - mid Aug 2018, photo selected by Robco canopies for their website homepage. (out of the blue dept.)
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Looks good carzee. Thanks again for putting me onto the flat pack fire pit. Works a treat.
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Got the time to top up the tyre pressures to 350 and take it for a run to get pics at Glenloch. I am liking the look of Maggie on top and the side awnings. Its worked out beaut IMHO. I may get the roof rack rear extension (overhead bar) and the front extension bar (for the maxtrax) done in time for Corowa.
A cool change came through -down to 22deg cloudy/breezy.
Wow, I love the rims in tan, I shall do that to my wolfs!! Please post more pics from the front, the bar looks good with the side rail mounts removed!
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:) Hi John, the bullbar is half on and half off because of the winch install. Looks a mess. Should bolt up this weekend. I got the extended battery leads yesterday.
We had LRPV or SRV split rims last year (see pic) and they were 'issue' cam tan/dust. I like the colour. Dust is a colour thats really "Australia". Even the Maggiolina has tan canvas so it matches up.
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Ross - Looks great - shows what can be done tastefully! Did you collect the pump?
Frank
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Hi Frank, thx for the comment. Re the 4bolt, I did chat with the friend and we made an arrangement but my son didn't make it there on his trip. So it looks like if you want a job done right you have to do it yourself.
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:) Hi John, the bullbar is half on and half off because of the winch install. Looks a mess. Should bolt up this weekend. I got the extended battery leads yesterday.
We had LRPV or SRV split rims last year (see pic) and they were 'issue' cam tan/dust. I like the colour. Dust is a colour thats really "Australia". Even the Maggiolina has tan canvas so it matches up.
Yeah, it looks great! Is that the standard Tan, FS30219? Either way I will probably give it a go once spring time rolls around! Also I have have sorted some RFSV spec Footwell vents from an Aussie Caravan shop, they were a bit pricey at $100 for the pair but they are defiantly the same issue. I suspect this might be something you wanted on your truck. UES 0623/003 7.5" x 4" Solid top Vent
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Hello Carzee,
Maybe you could scale down one of these!
All the comforts of home and a changing view outside your windows at the end of the day. Accessed February 13 2017 from, http://www.housetrucks.com/alHT/page1.html
This is what the original owners of my Series III Diesel had fitted on the back - it was a slide on - slide off arrangement. It was hacked up by the owner I bought it off. Apparently the original owners lapped Australia a couple of times in it. They must have got to see a lot of the country side - slowly with the 2.5 litre diesel chugging away!
Kind Regards
Lionel
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They kept it relatively simple -the snorkel on the Series 3 looks like household pvc water pipe.
I had a S3 4cyl diesel biscuit tin and it was a bit slow, but pretty reliable. I also had a late S3 V8 traytop and it was a rolling hazard -the drum brakes were not up to the job. And it had a tendency to overheat. With added slide-on it would've been deadly. Sold it after a near miss/NDE when moving house and loaded with furniture. I got very upclose and personal with the bottom of the table drain at Williamtown on the Nelson Bay rd.
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They kept it relatively simple -the snorkel on the Series 3 looks like household pvc water pipe.
Oh, is that the snorkel? I thought it was the drainpipe from the upstairs ensuite! 💩
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They kept it relatively simple -the snorkel on the Series 3 looks like household pvc water pipe.
Oh, is that the snorkel? I thought it was the drainpipe from the upstairs ensuite! 💩
Hello 303 Gunner,
Yes it is PVC pipe that joins up to a Donaldson canister air filter that was mounted to the bottom of the overhanging pop-up roof. The original owner was an electrical engineer and there was at least four different types of circuits ranging from 12 volt, 24 volt and solar. Plus some special custom boxes with circuit boards inside them. The owner i bought it off had hacked the systems apart attempting to get the camper off.
I do not think speed - stability or weight were high on the original owner's list of priorities.
The outside shell is marine ply. Square hollow section metal frame and structural grade hardwood studs used for cabinet framing - weight was not a consideration apparently.
I am toying with the idea of widening the frame so it can slide on and slide off a 8 x 5 foot trailer. I would replace the ply with an aluminium sheet skin. Or the sandwich material used for refrigerated pantechnicon siding: aluminium external sheet sandwiching a layer of insulating foam with another sheet of aluminium facing inside the cabin area. Or I might build a porch with white pickets and some nice columns. After all there are some distinct similarities between the truck home design and Baldrick's original owner's design.
Kind Regards
Lionel
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Yeah, it looks great! Is that the standard Tan, FS30219? Either way I will probably give it a go once spring time rolls around! Also I have have sorted some RFSV spec Footwell vents from an Aussie Caravan shop, they were a bit pricey at $100 for the pair but they are defiantly the same issue. I suspect this might be something you wanted on your truck. UES 0623/003 7.5" x 4" Solid top Vent
The Protec colour is camouflage brown, number 083425265/400g can. They stopped doing tan. I got a pair of vents but they will wait with other jobs, on the "to do" list.
Bolted on the winch at last. Also aux headlights, orig RFSV ones. Both items just need wiring now.
Last night after work we road tested Maggie (about 15km away) and the new Hank. tyres off road. Good grip. On the bitumen they are noisier than the std. Michelins but quieter than others. Got there at sunset and set up pretty quick. Took pics this morning before returning home. Goldilocks weather for it too.
Should've mentioned that we had visitors in a short TLC. Both people on board arrived to practice with their DJi Drones. (IV models). Fascinating stuff.
The following "dronage" video on youtube is of the same area we were, but on a different day, if pine forests are of interest. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYKBEySS1NI&t=307s
In that HD video, at the 3.30 minute mark, the drone is pointing at 'our' ridge (pointing ESE) and you can see the http://www.cdscc.nasa.gov (http://www.cdscc.nasa.gov) big dish at Tidbinbilla which is close by.
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Some more details. The steering gear bashplate was dinged a bit and had to be pressed flat/straight to align with the KLR winch plate (which fit very well - no trimming of the bashplate lip was necessary). The press job was done by Johnny at http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au
I purchased new bolts, 8 hardness, for the bullbar, for the new winch plate, and also for the front of the bashplate (new nylocks too).
A bashplate, let loose by old nylocks and corrugated roads, could fall down and imitate a Le Tourneau scraper until something snapped or bent off. At any rate, it could spoil an otherwise perfectly good day.
I copper greased the shafts in the fairlead rollers. To my inexperienced eyes, the circlips involved in those rollers do not appear designed to be around very long.
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update - Got under the LR today and brush painted the rear axle in black killrust.
Youtube search for Gibb River rd turned up this video. Done it in a Falcon station wagon. (I would blame Top Gear for this sort of thing).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wf4lzWbo3dk
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Been working on accessory electrics. Time consuming and not much to show for it, only about 10pc into it. Referring to some clues at
http://www.12volt.com.au
and others.
Simple rear tarp (for privacy, shade or bad weather) getting sorted. Bonnet locks are in and adjusted (day off yesterday) by Wayne and some nifty power tools.
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More progress this afternoon after work. In truth we had a visitor we hadn't seen for a while and a long pre-Corowa chat about all things Perentie and Stage 1.
Rene (and Johnny) from The Series Workshop deserve a big congrats as their photo (a large splash over the two pages) was on page 3 of today's local paper. http://www.canberratimes.com.au/act-news/how-rene-clark-completed-every-obstacle-in-the-miss-muddy-course-in-canberra-despite-being-in-a-wheelchair-20170301-guoqp5.html (Send up flares and beat the drums... I broke a ten year vow and purchased a Fairfax paper).
Stevie worked on his USB etc fittings. This place is turning into a LR workshop all of a sudden. And its because of Corowa.
Things are running late for Corowa regarding electric accessory installs and sorting out the new ignition assembly/str column lock.
The front rack extension bar has been here a week or two. It was bent to shape locally. It sits forward of Maggie over the canopy area that is above the front seats. It is for the Maxtrax but could also be an area we could stash a couple of empty jerry cans. Considered a few spots for the Maxtrax but ended up with this as the choice. Time will tell. Robco stuff is in transit too. Front coil turrets still waiting. Need more time off before having time off apparently.
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Some more updates.
The "ensuite" tarp arrived. Tested for fit, easy job - edit - see attached photos below from a shakedown trip April 2017.
The front rack extension was painted and fitted. The Maxtrax bolts were a tad long and shortened 20mm by Wayne.
The Gwyn Lewis front shock turrets were fitted at http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au see http://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk
During this I found out that a shock absorber tool would be a nifty item for the tool box.
The new Defender ignition/str column lock was a fail: too short on time. When I matched the wiring diagram from an EMEI a problem came up: there were two WR (white with red stripe) wires. And the N (thick brown) and NR (thick brown with red stripe) need to be re-made using small spade connectors to fit. When I mentioned it to Johnny he said he successfully fitted one of the Defender locks with only one problem wire - the EDIC one. So the analysis and problem solving can wait until I have time. Re-installed the original ign. switch.
My old Plumb axe head (with new handle I fitted) was sharpened locally at Fitch. http://www.sharptool.com.au
I visited Blackwoods for a leather axe sheath but I was apparently 50 years too late. Also the BSF brass nuts I ordered there were a no show as yet. Apparently Sydney is "interstate". Across the road is ARB 4x4. No luck there either - they had sold out of the coyote/tan colour Maxtrax. "We have 40 pair of orange ones.."
Sleeping bags got washed today. Big job in the bath tub as they do not dry clean or machine wash. But its worth it, they are flannel cotton and cozy. Had them for one winter already and love them. https://www.snowys.com.au/pilbara-c-3-sleeping-bag-3?gclid=CNCSsqaXxNICFQl9vQodPbwF4Q
Started the process of charging assorted uhf, camera and computer items.
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8)
Update time...
Saturday I spent all day sorting and getting ready to go to Corowa. We began the first trip for the LRCV early Sunday and we also towed the number 5 which has some items for the swap event.
After the event the trailer will return behind Wayne's or Stevie's Perentie. We will head west and south for a month. Photos soon.
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:) well Corowa sorted out a few bits. Some cooking pans etc went back home in the trailer. One box that was surplus somehow missed the trailer and its still with us :( Thanks Wayne for taking the trailer back.
Maggie and the rear tarp worked well. The awnings ditto. The LPG cooker and fridge and other things went well. The fridge wiring is now direct. Did that at Bindaree.
After Corowa and Collendina camps we travelled west on the Murray to see paddle steamers at Echuca and the military museum at Moama. Camped overnight, extremely humid and 21deg overnight, not to mention noisey. A/C cut in and cut out on vans.. and a weirdo at the main BBQ, cooking up petfood after midnight? 2am rotating spear pump watering systems hitting on the colorbond fencing? Yep, thats a fancy caravan park.
Next day we went on back roads down to Melbourne. Great decision - way way less traffic and peaceful countryside. More vineyards, Mt Macedon, Hanging Rock.
In the carpark at Hanging Rock I phoned Johnny to report that the driverside rear hubseal was leaking. Bit of a mysterious thing... "Miranda.? Mirandaaarrrh!" ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Picnic_at_Hanging_Rock )
Looks like we have to return to Canberra. Then it rained on the Calder Freeway and the indicators stopped working.
Well, shakedown trips do uncover the faults...
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Hi Carzee,
I was very impressed with your set up. You should post a pic of your Aussie Flag stencil, I think the boys would like it.
See you next year 😊👍
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I was very impressed with your set up. You should post a pic of your Aussie Flag stencil, I think the boys would like it.
See you next year 😊👍
It's "camo-flag" paint, so you might have missed it, but you can see the Aussie Flag stencil in reply #155 above ::). I think it's cool.
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Very nice pick up there 303, yep it`s a ripper. ;)
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Like this:
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Hi all, back in Canberra :(
Shakedowns are ongoing. When we got to Hanging Rock I noted that we had a leaking stub axle, this time the drivers side disc rotor showed a small dribble of oil. New seals had been fitted but but the smallest bit of pitting in the surface gradually ruins the seal. Lesson learned: when upgrading the rear of the 4x4 Perentie to disc brakes, the best approach/good idea is to install new stub axles at the same time and not try to refit your old ones. Mine had never leaked in the 2 years before the upgrade but obviously they didn't play well with the new seals.
That was the main fail. But there were others.
On the Calder Freeway this week we drove into a downpour. We arrived to visit Melbourne family with no indicators at all. No hazards either. I bypassed the Hazard unit and got some lights to illuminate but still no flasher function.
I walked to Penninsula Rangies in Frankston and ordered new front indicators; the original 1990 units were now little orange aquariums after the downpour and the bayonet bulb grooves were stuffed anyway. I upgraded to later Def "AMR6513" all plastic units by Wipac. This required a hole saw bit to take out the original 22mm diameter lamp hole to 33mm to fit the new units. Looks identical after fitting though.
There was more to the short than just the water however... still working on a birdsnest inside the front guards looking for the fault.
Regarding the flag stencil up front, I can pass it / post it around for club use if anyone wants it. Its a laser cut metal stencil.
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G'day Ross,
FWIW I have found that the best relatively long term repair for leaking hub/axle seals is to use a speedi-sleeve when you install the new seal.
Follow the installation instructions - mine have lasted for yonks.
http://www.skf.com/au/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html
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Thx Laurie, that product looks the goods. Will keep in mind for the future.
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Today I investigated the indicator failure ..
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=4910.0
...and I also finished wiring up the water pump for the rear jerrys. It works well. :) You could easily rig a shower to it.
I purchased olive drab Polyquip wide mouth water jerrys. http://www.proquip.com.au/products/water-cans.html
The wide mouth is needed to be able to insert a submersible pump. https://www.caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5599
Looks like the price I paid was a bargain compared to the link.
The pump has a waterproof electrical cord and water tubing to get the water out of the jerry.
The lid of the jerry has to be drilled - you need two holes (one for electric connector and one for water tube) and the holes have to have grommets too to minimise dirt ingress (afterall its the rear of the vehicle). When the jerry is empty you swap lids with a full jerry. KISS.
The next item needed is a electrical connection, one pos, one neg, at the rear of the vehicle. Maybe a switch on and off too?
In the end I used the retro Lucas red and black pins (used on Land Rovers since the '50s?) and marine wire.
Lucas CAB185 (male pin duo) and Lucas CAB189 (red and black sockets)
http://www.retroclassiccarparts.com/lucas-style-2-pin-dash-sockets-cab189
Using the old pins means a switch is redundant.
I ran the loom from near the front seats out to the rear ROPS mounting running it inside the tub capping. I mounted the connection pins on the capping. A couple of eagle eyes at Corowa noticed the sockets at the back on the capping and asked what they were for and now I hope its a bit clearer.
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Yesterday morning we went to the Series Workshop and Johnny fitted up a new stub axle and checked the old one to see where it aggravated the hub seal and caused a slow leak. All fixed now and many thanks to Johnny.
I took note that Johnny used Wurth Flange Sealant and a special LR Tool LRT-54001 for putting on seals exactly. Its Urethane. Johnny has a big collection of special tools and other urethane items such as bearing drifts for gearboxes, diff pinions etc etc. So many types..
There was a lot of Series 1 and Series 2A gearbox activity going on and also a beautiful Disco4 with an empty engine bay - had one bad piston and big problems. Makes our troubles seem insignificant.
In the afternoon we set about replacing the under- windscreen vent rubber seals... got halfway...
edit. more info and pics. I took pics on the phone of the old stub (you can see a small groove) and new one.
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Good luck with your stuff Ross.
Unfortunately not my g/box just yet.... I'm waiting for him to finish those ones. I'll call at the end of the week and see how he's tracking.
Pete
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:) updates.
Last couple of days;
Horn loom tidied up. USB outlet refreshed/relocated. Fluids checked. Stub Axle leak done. Vent Seals renewed.
Today;
Revisited the Indicator problem...
First thing was that I dug out the business card of a mobile auto elec that Wayne got to redo his dash panel etc. He was very good and (now) knows Perenties pretty well.
Before admitting it was all too hard and ringing the auto elec I got stuck into the checklist of known problem areas of course. See thread http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=4910.0
Well, I ended up finding the cause of the fault. The blue Hella flasher.
So all is good again. Tank is full. Getting ready to go again. Cheers.
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We left after talking on the phone with Engel support because the fridge does not work on 12v...
While the LRCV was getting these stub leak and indicator problems fixed etc, the fridge had both 240v and 12v leads plugged in. That was fine: the engel circuit senses the higher voltage power source and ignores the lower one. The 240v input is simply converted /inverted down to 12v for the fridge to run on. Engel support said the fact that the unit is fine using 240v shows there is no on board problem....
However the fridge will have no display when on 12v battery source only if the battery power is low. It turns itself off so as not to pull down a battery too low and possibly make it difficult to start your vehicle. So Engel support were helpful and simply suggested that after a good bit of hwy running the alternator would recharge the depleted 12v level up to "optimal", and automatically turn on and begin reaching the set temp level while we drove.
We drove to Adaminaby ver 2.0 and then into the Brumby NPark (our favorite camp to date). It was mostly overcast and rain could be seen out on the ranges. And it was very windy. The LRCV sat ok in corners as the shockies were set to 8, a hard setting, for bitumen, to handle high speed corners.
A dramatic "Ah hah" moment then followed when we reached the dirt track of the NPark and adjusted the shockies down to setting 0, soft setting, for corrugated tracks and off road conditions -the slower bumpy stuff. The LRCV then felt like we were driving on carpet. I love the effect: cheers for those Tough Dogs. This was a top-heavy vehicle feeling very comfortable with dirt tracks in mostly High range 3rd and 4th at mostly 50 to 70kmph.
When we arrived at Blue Waterholes the usual brumby and usual campground grey kangaroos were hanging around like gulls at the beach, waiting on any freebies. But we gave none and they ignored us. I chopped some gumtree timber provided and the newly sharpened old Plumb USA axehead with the newly fitted handle that had been waiting patiently for its debut since I fixed it up over a year back (I think). The (smoky) fire going meant it was cuppa time and then Maggie was set up level after propping one side of the vehicle using a couple of rocks under driverside tyres. We used the 6inch level with its bubbles to get to a rough version of level anyway. North-south was spot on, east west was off a fair bit but I didn't care as we would be travelling again in the morning...
[It was perfect blue sky weather the 2nd day. The cloud cover from the cyclone sys up north blew over and the overnight stars were so clear it was just brilliant].
We saw the Milky Way stars after midnight, but it was not because our sleep was disturbed by the noisey (or nosey) Brumbies like the last camp we had here in 2016... and it wasn't possums or dingoes (we heard the dingoes as usual)... it was two asian utes and one had a camper-trailer. Up to this point our campsite was perfectly abandoned by others - it was ours alone. Being alone out there mid-week, 2 weeks before easter, and being a non-school holidays period, is common I suppose. Not surprising as it is at the end of 20km or so of dirt road, some open grassland quicker stuff where any traffic can be seen approaching for a km in the distance, and some closed in tight twisty rocky ridge ascent and descent stuff.
Kay looked out the Maggie "window" and described the scene. Said campers used the long drop that was 50m away with its all steel floor and squeeky doors. The diesels idled for a few minutes, then decided to camp somewhere back up on the ridge that overlooks the main campsite, maybe 700m away in a direct line, a separate/alternative grassy campground. After the midnight arrivals went up the ridge we heard no more noise, just a single re-visit by a lone brumby before sun up. We later met the not-so-happy campers and the story was they had planned to arrive before sunset of course but their long drive in, a northern approach offroad from the Tumut direction, was blocked by treefall somewhere on the famous Broken Cart Trail. Time for Plan B... they had to backtrack a long way and re-approached by bitumen on the Snowy Hwy, from Tumut on our west, after dealing with detectives. Classic stuff. When back at Tumut they needed refueling, pretty badly. It was after dark, everything was shut and a house they were given contact with for someone with farm diesel - well it turned out it was being staked out for weed. Did I mention our midnight campers were all under 30? Uh huh. :)
That was the first 24hrs of "the short trip" (resumed). We left home after midday Thursday 30th March, the day Wayne picked up his Perentie GS from KLR with its new R380 5speed installed. We got very happy txt messages and pix on the phone from Wayne before we lost mobile net. A KLR photo from underneath had been posted on facebook Wednesday night. Very very very nice to say the least.
To be continued..
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Friday the 31st. Angus Young's Birthday. We decamped slowly, taking our time to enjoy the campground and sights. It had been cold overnight, two layers of clothing and beanies on. Maybe +5degrees. It was about 1400m above sea level and winter is coming as they say. We had parkas on til about 11am.
We met the midnight campers as mentioned above before we left. A top spot if the weather is good and if the NPark rangers have it unlocked... on the way out to the Snowy Mtn Hwy we stopped for Brumby pics a number of times. We also called in on Talbingo. A work friend who passed the other week grew up there. The local we chatted with told us the school enrollment is down to 10 kids now. At Tumut hardware shops and chainsaw shops I resumed the hunt for a good aussie leather axehead cover. Tumut is a big timber town but no luck and the quest continues. Maybe I need a time machine.
We turned west from Tumut and decided against turning south to Tumbarumba etc and the ManfromSnowyRiver Festival. One reason -crowded campgrounds.
We headed to Wagga on the Sturt Hwy. Saw the F-111 etc parked at the RAAF museum Forrestville and the re-designed turnoff to Kapooka after Wagga. Saw billabongs and flatter country after that. We had gone from alpine to riverina altitudes.
Um, nothing but a dodgy chicken parma to report at the pub at Hay. Camped in caravan park. Across the road is a pub and one night a week its music from a muppet in the beergarden for the locals and you could still hear it and the hwy trucks with 2 pairs of squishies in (boom-tish). Yes, a squishies-in night by the main hwy west. Cool night but not cold at all.
Next morning, April Fools Day, we left just on checkout time, 10am. Yes, I pranked some other camper about the local attractions ("Don't miss going to the local lookout") and yes I saw the flyers at Hay advising that the nation's Mini Cooper S lovers would arrive there this easter to celebrate the 50th Hay National Mini Car Club meeting but I was distracted.
It was while checking things at Hay that I realised the Engel was still off. I pulled out the multimeter and checked the aux battery. Should've done it before we left home but I was otherwise busy. So, we have been carting around a dead battery. It is at 5.4v. No way an alternator is going to charge that no matter how many miles we do. No wonder Mr Engel is ignoring it. So what went wrong? More shakedown moments. We brought a bag of ice.
Oh well, we just got going again. Plenty of time to think while driving. I found out about the results of the chkn parma somewhere near Balranald. An excellent toilet there, brand new, 10/10. Thx Balranald. The others that day were not so good... It seems I was on a saltbush country tour of hwy rest stops. At least the roadside stops had some shade, the only trees out there. You'd see the trees from a km away and expect it to be a rest stop, and it is. This continued for a few hours. I was feeling ok when we reached the Gol Gol orchards and Mildura.
We felt up for adventure and visited Wentworth specifically to see the confluence of The Murray and The Darling. The Rotarians installed a steel tower to get a better pic since since the region seems flatter than a pool table. Wentworth shops also have a "Military Museum" but it was closed. Oh well.
On a whim, about 3pm, on April Fools Day, with a completely empty intestinal system, with a flat aux battery and a Engel $1000 esky, with us mainly thinking about camping alone again, we headed to Renmark, but not on bitumen, not on the hwy, we drove onward and westward and into South Australia via tracks on the north side of the Murray and Lake Victoria. It was great. Got dusty turning down the shock absorbers, but it was fantastic. 143km of dirt road, dodging emus and 'roos were ahead. ..
But wait, there's more.
At sunset we watched the sun go down outside Dominos in Renmark, waiting on a pizza. No campsite. And after dark, back on the blacktop to Adelaide, the fun really started. It turns out that this is the night daylight savings ends.
To be continued...
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More pix from before Renmark.
As you can see from the fact that we have web access and a motel on Sunday/tonight, we didn't find any motel or caravan park reception open for business after 7.30pm Saturday, last night, maybe due to daylight time changeback, or maybe its a SA thing. We tried several places incl. Big 4 and Top this and two motels. And a Country Club place. Drove around Renmark, Berri and another, off the route places, some answered the intercoms, some didn't. Some receptions said "Open Hrs 'til 8.30pm" (Big 4) but they were shut at 7.30... nevermind.
We decided after wasting time from 7 to 9pm to give up and just drive a bit further to Adelaide. We took it slow and had a few cuppas along the way. No traffic in Adelaide in the wee hours of a Sunday -a good thing. At sunrise we walked the old port pier at Noarlunga, sparkling new day. The early light fisherman were wasting time and chatting. We went to a picnic table on Christies Beach cliffs, watched all the dog walker types with pooper scoopers on the beach below, ground our coffee, and brewed up. And we adjusted our wristwatches back 35 years.
To be continued.
Excuses to visit Adelaide area? To visit both Red Arc and Westrac/Cat.
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We're back in Canberra after 4000+km. Not a drop of wet weather: clear nearly every night. We added up around $670 in diesel receipts.
The previous post was done in a Adelaide motel next to Morphettville racetrack. Never going there again. Anyway, that was 3000km and 10 days of travel ago. We haven't been in a motel since. Caravan Parks, Farmstays, and free camping on vacant land is how we did the last 10 days.
We waited for Monday 3rd April to be able to check out our Catapillar battery and our RedArc SBI. RedArc were excellent and helpful. Problem was a quick flip on our 80A breaker. I did monitor B1 and B2 voltages for 4 or 5 days after and things went well, after a new 1000CCA battery from Cat was obtained. $194 incl. Mr Engel was happy thereafter.
We drove north out of Adelaide full of $1.18 BP diesel. It was our 35th Anniversary. Enjoyed a freecamp at Crystal Brook (Bowman's Park) that night, nice and quiet, fantastic starry sky, then to Laura, Wilmington (LR and Toys meet with Dave), Melrose (too bad the LR festival is at Easter). At this stage we still got Telstra signal and booked ahead for the Quorn Caravan Park. The Railway Station at Quorn is in a few movie scenes. Took the cover/lid off the local BBQ and met Mickey Mouse too. Possums seen there too. Mediocre showers but a good night.
We drove to Hawker, then to Wilpena Pound NPark campground. It was very busy, camper trailers and white asian 4wd wagons side-by-side like a KMart carpark. I contacted Willow Springs and managed to snag a booking (midweek vacancy). There were heavily booked after that -school holidays. So we drove 30km to Willow Springs Station and camped two nights at their single -vehicle Valley View "spot" - its a gully full of the small native pine trees they have there in the Flinders NP over the road.
I can't rave enough about Willow Springs and the Skytrek track. Took all day, 80km on their 70,000 acre sheep station. At the end we started seeing other 4wd people as you get up on the peaks and see a distance, but most of the day we didn't see anyone. Rock Gorges and waterholes with wildlife. But mainly its arid land. Ancient geology. Red dirt. I have photos that look like they are from the Mars Rover. The rocks can be sharp - we got a 4inch cut in a sidewall. Groan. Yet the sheep are there - each sheep has 13 acres as a ratio. Stars were great, showers were great too. Willow Springs was the trip highlight to me.
We then drove through the Flinders NPark gorges on dirt roads and headed out north to Leigh Creek and Lyndhurst where the main road forks to either Marree and the Birdsville Track or north-east to Innaminka and the Strezlecki Track. We went to Innaminka: 477km of dirt, no fuel stops or services at all. Just emptiness. There were several 5km sections of bitumen on the track for some bizarre reason - seemed to be a section every hour. There were contractor semi-trailers and road trains. The dust was not so much fun, you couldn't see a thing. We free camped at The Pope's Bore, about 300km along the track from Lyndhurst Station. Total isolation.
Next day we got to refuel at $1.70 per litre at Innaminka and headout to The Dig Tree which is just over the border in Queensland. Originally we were thinking of going to Cameron's Corner but the fact we had one dodgy cut tyre and some mechanical issues put it out of reach. After Pope's Bore we prioritised getting back to civilisation and back to bitumen, and the road east of Innaminka in Cooper Creek region of Queensland is bitumen. Its called "The Adventure Way" and for the first 200km its only as wide as a Land Rover. Golf Course tracks have wider bitumen. If a mining/fracking contractor truck approaches, and a few did, you are required to get off the road. And the crests were diabolically unsafe. Luckily we saw 5 vehicles in total that day. One put a ten cent chip in our windscreen. The main memory of this region was the hundreds of small sticky flies per cm. And The Dig Tree.
Towards dark we reached Thargomingah Caravan Park. Bore water showers. Met a couple getting married at Big Red. Zero telstra mobile phone signal. Next day we reached Cunnamulla on the Warego and again, no mobile phone. But I like that town - authentic old style shopfronts and Australian town right there, still large as life. Time standing still. And hardly any flies there too, a big improvement. Cunnamulla was actually busy with 4wds and campervans heading up to the Simpson or central Queensland. We were sort of back in civilisation - there was a lot more traffic as we turned south on the Mitchell Hwy. So much roadkill..
We then did the diagonal run down through NSW: Bourke, Nyngan, Naromine, Peak Hill, Parkes, Cowra, Yass, Canberra. Mobile phone coverage on the hwy kicked in about Naromine. Its all very green from the border of Queensland southwards. The Dish at Parkes was a highlight too. Got home in one piece yesterday, unaided.
Today I visited Johnny at The Series Workshop and 50-257 went on the hoist to do a inspection.
The corrugations of the Strezlecki or off-roading in Willow Springs rocky tracks had somehow loosened the circlip on the clutch master cylinder rod. It was moving freely. Johnny says the bumps and pedal bounce - because our pedal return spring was MIA - during hours and hours of corrugations stuffed the circlip. That explains why I lost a lot of clutch pedal. The clutch hassle had been a mystery to me because the fluid level hadn't changed. The bumps were bad on some tracks and the gearstick was moving all over the cab LOL - I got the impression a 'box mounting or engine mounting was cacktus but again, I couldn't see a problem. The mounts were fine.
The nasty grating noise that was intermittent and seemingly related to the accelerator cable or return springs (had a look and couldn't tell which) would be due to -apparently- the engine movements during accelerations and blips... moving the exhaust downpipe frictioning the inner guard (because of the turbo mod). That noise had stopped by Cunnamulla. But the pipe does show fresh metal markings... weird one.
The increase in prop-slop or backlash or whatever you want to call it is down to the rear prop spline wear and the bolt inside the handbrake needing a tighten-up.
The speedo cable noises that reminded me of the noise old washing machines used to make - well it got jammed up with all that red dust. An upgrade to TD5 is the solution there.
So this 2 weeks away has been another shakedown trip, literally. And an education.
-soon to follow - photos and one or two videos.
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Photos..
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more
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more, north-east South Aust.
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last ones. Thanks to Johnny at Series Workshop for checking over 50-257 and freshening up the oil and filters etc ASAP.
Should mention that Farmstays were $10 each per night, self-sufficient. No one else there at all.
http://www.youcamp.com
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Thanks for sharing your photos Ross. Looks like you had a good time. I agree about Cunnamulla, some of those towns in sw Qld are like walking back in time - I really enjoy visiting them also. Spent some of my younger years in that area and still feel at home there.
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Hi mate - thanks for taking the time to post up to pics - they are awesome. Some q's:
- how is your vehical sitting GVM-wise when packed up and full of fuel and water for this trip?
- what's your 4 point review of the Maggie?
Thanks, eyes
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GVM hasn't been done. We upgraded the suspension and brakes, I think the safety aspect is good. The shocks and tyres at 350kpa were gold imho. The engine power and clutch is up to it too.
We didn't fully load out the rear tub and scrutinised nearly every article we had on board before the trip. I have unloaded the truck now and made notes of the successes and fails with gear.
Maggie was well tested before the trip and its worth every one of its 60-something kilos. No condensation. Warm when you want it or cool and breezy when we wanted. Insect invasion did not occur because the headtorches were not on during entry at night. Packup timed twice. Without rushing, 7 minutes and 8 minutes were the results. Its packed up for the day with bedding, pillows, pj's and some night gear like ear squishies, case for my glasses and maglite torch. Thongs are parked outside on the awning ready for exit in the morning. The ladder gets cold.
Zebra head torches -flood types- were gold. Lightweight and top qual. for bushwalkers. I just found their links and boy have they gone up now our dollar is weak. I got them when our dollar was around equal to the US dollar. http://www.zebralight.com/H603d-High-CRI-Flood-Neutral-White-18650-Headlamp_p_180.html
The larger stand alone rechargeable LED worklights from bunnings were good for about 4hrs each, excellent for after dark setup and camp dinner cooking, 2 nights per light. Gold. Pics were posted up thread months back.
LPG stove was not used much but was available if we camped in a NPark. Didn't happen, too many campers at them. We mainly used a old railway sleeper as firewood. So hot and minimal smoke.
We used the folding firepit with the wok, the bbq plate, and the billy. We made use of the communal kitchens when we stayed at CParks, all lpg bbqs. Not much to cut from the load in this group. We did not take anything cast iron.
The cuppa gear was good. The messing gear was pretty minimal. The morning fresh detergent bottle got pinched between heavier items when getting into bumpy stuff off road so it broke and spilled - we got lime green detergent on the lower sections of the tub. Nice. Needs a better storage than a ziplock bag...
The water jerrys and pump were gold. What we felt we lacked or was a hassle was not having a good washing up setup. I envied a steady metal sink and drain to grey water storage.
The Engel proved itself a little oversized for us. Nothings perfect. What I could do with is a gucci battery read-out that has absolutely minimal draw. Maybe something i could switch on and switch off.
We each have our own half-size footlocker for clothing and cameras etc. UHF was used once. The raincoat poncho was not used but it weighs nothing. One set of shoes and thongs, one good cold weather jacket each.
All up, or on balance, things were well sorted. Minimalist. But we did goof. Things overlooked were towing insurance and spare brake/clutch fluid. A HF radio or sat phone would be good luxury as well.
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Mate thanks for the run down; and I'll be continuing to follow with interest.
Noted on the cast iron gear, I have a few items and can't bring myself to go without them- I'd consider leaving the spare off to take them (internet sarcasm clarification - that scenario would not occur)!!
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Some other camping items came up in conversation today -the pros and cons of folding chairs and tables...
We did not take a folding table and chairs. Perhaps thats a small weight saved but mainly it saves space.
In nearly all places we visited there was a table and seats 'supplied': rest stops, C'van Parks, city parks, NParks and cliff-top lookouts.
Most places even have free BBQs as well. We give the BBQ a quick wipe if necessary then put down 2 baking paper sheets and cook on that. You can fold up the edges to make cheese and tomato omlettes (a fav) and when you finish you just chuck the paper. All done. Baking paper is gold for camping, used it heaps. http://glad.com.au/glad-products/food-management/glad-bake-and-cooking-paper/index.html Also note that a roll of good rubbish bin liners was gold.
When there is no table or chairs 'supplied' we can use Trimcast boxes topped with a small section of thick ply. The ply bit fits inside the rims of the BBQ plate, which is roughly a Primus "triple burner" stove size. Bunnings sold us the ply offcut for $4. (BTW, we have used other metals. Found that aluminium warps and cast just cracks. Steel 'plates you simply have to maintain.) The ply piece is wrapped and kept clean enough to use as a cutting board or prep board and it also acts as a base for the LPG gas cooker when sitting the LPG single burner stove on the Trimcast. The ply sits in the BBQ plate as I said and the BBQ plate is stashed between the driver and pgr seats right under the "console" (a Nylex jerrycan at this time).
For making a roadside cuppa we also make use of our 900mm wide aluminium panel that fits in the FFR scoop to act as a tailgate. It sits across the rear step.
We left our folding chairs at home and used our lightweight 3 legged stools. We do have some camp chairs and tables, and for an event like Corowa we do use them, but for those events we also take a trailer.
As mentioned in the previous gear review, a proper wash-up station would be a real luxury. Today we looked at a Mulgo table fitted to a D90. Very interesting... https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/au/camping-gear/chairs-tables/front-runner-stainless-steel-vehicle-side-mount-table-with-basin.html
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More gear talk: the flatpack firepit.
We carried the firepit and assoc. gear in a old ech bag. After a trial and error thing, we settled on packing it in last, on its edges, aka sideways, right at the FFR scoop tailgate panel. You can see the top of the bag in the photo above.
The lower venting holes in the sides give air access to make a less smokey burn. The firepit showed a tendancy to minimise sparks being blown off the fire by gusty conditions. A circle of rocks, an idea from before the ice age, is not so good as a windshield.
For cooking the firepit is very good support for grilles, pans and bbq plates. And for the older cooks... you don't have to bend down quite as far. I was cooking while sitting on a stool.
One factor is the water saving advantage. The steel baseplate is perhaps 50mm off the ground and cools the coals overnight as it lets air under the base of the ash and coals. They weren't even warm, so no water used to put the fire out before I buried the ash. Not an issue if you are beside a river or something, but most times we were not. We only carried 40 litres of water. The ash slides off the baseplate once you have dismantled the firepit. Looking at where we camped, after pack up, you would find it hard to prove someone had camped there.
It weighs about 8kg, 9kg. Is it worth the weight? I think so.
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Here's the video of "LRCV trip 1":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnFo01_xICA
I hope youtube serves it up with high res. for you. It supposed to be 1080HD. I heard you don't get that unless you have an established name on YT...
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Great little film of your recent trip Carzee! Thanks for sharing.
Love your setup especially the rooftop tent. Probably do something similar with my RFSV. Just have to find a good second hand Maggiolina Airlander at the right price. Not an easy task as you probably all ready know.
How did the rivnuts hang in or did you end up bolting the tent down?
Regards Warrick.
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We found the rivnuts were up to the job. I already mentioned the corrugated road issues, this was very much a shakedown trip. At home we got out the 13mm socket and checked the bolts. We nipped up two out of the four ROPS mount bolts that go through the rubber bushes into the 1990 rivnuts. We found that one of the roofrack (side) mounts nipped about a quarter of a turn like the others. So, I would say the rack was very well built and congrats to Wayne T. who nutted it out and welded it. Its strong, as low as possible, adaptable to the extras at each end, and it appears to be rock solid after the shakedowns. Awesome result.
We could've gone for lighter weight and a faster build design or even used a production rack (Rhino etc) off the shelf somehow, but taking the time to do it the way we did gave us a good result. So thanks again Wayne.
Wayne would like a Maggie as well. Just about everyone who sees it set up wants one. What we were waiting for was a spell of bad weather to be able to 'test out' that situation. In 12 nights in Maggie all we got was one hour of semi-gales as a change went through. The canvas walls are taught and they moved with the blows a bit but didn't flap around or make noise.
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Also mention we were flexible about where we camped. We stayed at a few caravan parks, a farm stay (my new fav place), a few roadside free camps, and in a National Park.
On the highways I saw a lot of camper trailers, campervans, camper utes (slide ins) and of course 3 million caravans. I got the impression at one caravan park that what we all do is go travelling in our 4 door HiLux towing a big box we can sit in and watch footy on 40in TVs, have a freezer and a microwave etc and have to run a genny to get thru dinner time. Same with the Motorhomes. I hate the gennys. I asked one guy why he didn't just pay the extra $6 or so to get a powered site? "Nah we got the genny so we can pull up anywhere." We moved camp. At another place the only other camper at the river had one running and in the bush its quiet ...so its all you could hear. The manager came along for a chat and asked them to switch it off as it was against the rules after 3pm but they said they were a bit desperate to re-charge a flat fridge battery. "Just another couple of hours?" "Ok". They had floods and a CD player and everything going so that excuse they always use gets them through another dinnertime in another caravan park and other patrons who paid up for a advertised "Quiet secluded bush setting on the river 3km out of town" get some aggro. Ughh. At 8.30pm I had enough waiting for the manager and went to chat with the guy. I stood by the drivers door and chatted like we were old mates but I kept moving to the back. The genny was on the passenger side and I gradually moved around there were the noise was (facing our camp) and we both had to talk up. I said if the genny was so quiet how come it was on this side of his ute for us to listen too? Why wasn't it on their (camp) side? He considered my POV and without much delay and turned it off. Should've done it hours back. I'd been having a run of this sort of stuff that began in Corowa.
The main thing in a caravan park for us was too do was to hit the showers, do a load of laundry (we could've found a laundramat I suppose), charge camera batteries and use the internet (when they had it which they didn't mostly because there was no mobile network in the outback towns we visited).
All that brings we to the idea of trying to avoid caravan parks and use farm stays more. I can rig our own shower up if there is enough water. I can find laundromats. I can break free LOL.
So it begins. Solar. I want a panel rigged to twin old school wet lead batteries. The panel would charge the batts to replace power used by the Engel and a small, low draw 300w 240v pure sine inverter (to power a laptop and charge camera and drone batteries etc).
I have read a load of stuff on the web but ended up trusting Handybob. https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com
Bob has a decade of grey nomad life on solar, no generator, off grid as they say. He's in the USA of course but 12v batteries and sunshine are the same up there as they are down here. I have ordered the Morningstar controller and the Bogart monitor he has found to be the most reliable. Nothing fancy. Its all on feebay. The panel I have (ebay again) I will use as a starter into this aspect of camping.
So thats what will keep me busy through winter as I save up some more money.
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Haven't posted here for a month or so.
I have removed the FFR cubby box that is installed in the rear tub against the bulkhead to get more space. Also I have been spending money on bits to assemble a "power box". This started once I saw Ronny Dahl on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BvtTdaDeXk
The box in the Dahl video is way bigger than what my needs are etc, but the takeaways for me from the video is that its all together as a unit for the most part, that its clean and not dusty or rusty and that its installable and removable as a unit. The console box can be dust sealed. Air can be vented thru a little filter, maybe a Victa mower handle snorkel :) salvaged from the tip aka dump (or new https://www.allmowerspares.com.au/victa-air-filters )
Power lines to batteries, the Engel and the solar cell can all be connected by Andersons on the outside of the console. Inside maybe the inverter, the solar controller, the battery monitors, the USBs, the 240 GPO, assorted fuses, shunts, circuit breakers. And in the forward section inside will be a neoprene container for charging phones, laptops, cameras etc. I don't think the ARB compressor will fit in there. The ARB and tyre gear may be installed in the RFSV stashbox in the driverside Aux Batt locker. We'll let the whole thing evolve as we go.
I have a inverter now, a Projecta 600w (after much research and forum chats) and will install it and the solar controller soon.
http://www.projecta.com.au/site/DefaultSite/filesystem/images/Inverters/Pro-Wave/PW600/PW600-large-image1.jpg
The Projecta is bulky/large: the heatsink is large and the venting fan works well, and only on demand. 'Boosting' 12v to 240v makes things heat up. In general, the cooler things operate, the longer they live. So many inverters die early...
I also called in at KLR and purchased some more bits. Pics soon.
In the meantime I have fitted a sedimentor replacement. I posted it on the "What I did Today" thread but will paste it here as well----
Fitted a new Ryco sedimenter/filter "R2132UA" -$62- after some Perentie owners on the facebook group talked them up. One owner had fitted 15mths ago, no probs.
The Ryco specs checked out for flow rate etc so I purchased one on feebay.
I should say my Perentie was recently serviced and the small gauze filter under the hand pump aka primer aka lift pump was nice and clean as was everything else. So I went with the idea of keeping the fuel side as clean as practicable. The Ryco has a transparent fuel bowl which is nice too. The fuel connections, threads, and mounting to the chassis bracket is all correct. We used the original bolts. Replacement filter cartridges are $12 at SCA.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Fuel-Filter-R2132UA/262575672851?
Fitting should've been straightforward. We checked the connection "fuel direction arrows" on the old sedimenter top and set the Ryco connectors the same. Wayne helped me do the job in the carport, in the 3,4,5,6 degree temps before midday. It was cold.
As it turned out, we had a hassle bleeding the system, and that was our own fault as it turned out. Oh well.
Long version:
First thought was with the original old primer hand pump. Fuel came out the bottom of it. I replaced that with the Bosch unit that is available and on-hand as I got one weeks ago after Johnny noted it was nearly dead. But still... it wouldn't run.
Second thought, fuel level. We put 20litres of diesel in tank thinking a quarter of a tank could be too low. Still wouldn't run.
Third thought, phone-a-friend time: Johnny from Series Workshop. "Re-check everything from the tank forward". We checked we had fuel via the hand pump at the cartridge filter near the tappet cover and then we cracked the fuel line into the Injector Pump to check there as well. Fuel pulsed there no probs.
Fourth thought, had we put the wrong fuel pipe, i.e., the return line, into the new filter input side? Were the input and output of the filter ass-about? I pulled the seatbox plate under the driver that covers the top of the fuel tank and then got under the Landy and traced the fuel pipes to the new filter. Bingo! Found the problem: pipes into the new filter were loose and sucking air :(
Short version:
Classic. Don't assume the pipes were tightened by the other guy LOL. We had both been under to look it over and fit up the lines into the correct connectors, but I thought Wayne had done them up and he thought I had done them up :(
Back on road:
A few pumps, a engine turn over for 10seconds and it fired up. We cracked the air bleed bolt near the engine fuel filter under the bonnet, some air bubbles appeared, then we warmed it up for 10 minutes. I went for a run down the main road for 30mins at 100kmph etc. No further probs.
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Here are some pics of the RFSV stash box. Note the Ronstan drain plug is the same as used in the No. 5 trailer.
I used the driver-side aux battery locker as a place for the 4kg LPG bottle but after Corowa and the shakedown trips I am moving on and choosing the butane disposable cookers.
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I got both the RFSV stashbox and the AWOL console from KLR last week. I also got a complete snorkel and a jerry stash bin for under the rear.
Here are the pics of the AWOL Console. Its aluminium. A lot of the 30+ AWOL Perenties had the console, custom fabricated by someone. A member here will know who made them (for sure) ... Seems to be a great unit. The ex-AWOL RFSV in the photo is 51-704.
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Been a while but we got a camp last weekend.
Goldilocks Saturday and mixed for Sunday.
Very green spring on the Monaro. Still miles of snow along the tops in the distance. Chatting to locals and the topic is land sales -very busy down this way with some listings selling inside a day or two. Conveyancing is doing overtime. Mysterious.
(https://s26.postimg.org/ir2hhemhl/camp-21oct2017-medium.jpg)
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excellent photo
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This weekend in Canberra is the Caravan/Leisure Show and I may go for some ideas. I am talking to fibreglass shop at the moment to do some DIY work for a cold climate camper trailer. The wind on the ranges just cuts right through. Or maybe we're soft. (Hats off to the pioneers in the high country.)
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from the post for 25th October: "Chatting to locals and the topic is land sales -very busy down this way with some listings selling inside a day or two. Conveyancing is doing overtime. Mysterious."
Mystery solved? I think the locals are getting in before the "Snowy Scheme 2" gets approved:
http://www.snowyhydro.com.au/our-scheme/snowy20/
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After the 2018 Corowa Swim-In and the 70th Anniversary of Land Rover Celebrations at Cooma over Easter 2018 we got busy with different things...
one of the things -- we are currently fitting up a set of Kingpin Fabrication's "Ultra-slim" rock sliders to the LRCV.
https://www.kingpindesignandfab.com (https://www.kingpindesignandfab.com)
Today was a acetone cleanup followed by a 180grit sand down and then the first coat of Cold-Gal (Killrust brand) by brush. There was enough sunshine (+15C) to set off the well-stirred cold gal.
Another coat tomorrow and then some primer in the afternoon. Should be fitting them Sunday.
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Carzee
Thanks for send me the number for the AWOl awning, do you mind posting up some pictures of them fold stowed and erected? They look good from the photos I've seen but would like to see some close ups as well first.
Thanks
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http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4148.0;attach=14834;image
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4148.0;attach=14836;image
Did you see the other pages of this thread, with these ones and others from Alan L in SA?
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Well Sunday arrived and some clear skies with it. Wayne and I got stuck in. Stevie was also very busy on his FFR 50-169 fitting a console, a battery isolator, UHF etc... so it looked and sounded like a workshop most of the day.
The rocksliders were fitted up to see where we needed to adjust the mounting holes. The rear mounts were no problem but once we had the rear bolts on things were sloping downward at the front mount so we had to modify the front bolt hole on the mount tab. It needed nibbling out and rat tailing to enable the slider to sit aligned horizontally with the body panels toward the front. See photo attachment "G".
Each slider has:
[front] single mount below the side of the firewall (the panel the door hinges swing off) and its mounted using the firewall-to-chassis long bolt (need size 19 metric socket or ring spanners).. See photo attachment "E".
[rear] twin bolt mount up flush on the side of the chassis outrigger. See photo attachments "F", "H".
The rear mount also has a laser cut shape looking like a capital letter "L" which you will see in the following photos. Its purpose is to accommodate the part of a body support mount that sits out about 10mm proud of the outrigger. See photo attachments "I", "J", "K".
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Also to be noted is that the sliders fit a GS model much more simply than a FFR.
The hassle on the FFR is the lid for the Aux Battery Locker on each side of the Perentie.
Rick at Kingpin said that one FFR has deleted the hinge from the lower side of the lid and then employed more budget locks on the sides. This problem is where we have to do some thinking about alternatives and we'll deal with it later.
The sliders do not protect the fuel tank on the driver's side or the exhaust muffler on the passenger side. I see the purpose of these "sill bars" as being to protect the body from trackside stumps, boulders or logs in slippery muddy conditions or the like where the vehicle slides sideways due to off camber roads or drains etc.
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In the last photo is the Perentie wearing the sliders (albeit temporarily in black paint).
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Good post Ross - interesting and informative.
Frank
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Good post Ross - interesting and informative. Frank
Thx Frank.
Another part of the "Slider" function is to enable jacking to change a tyre etc. The slider RHS is 4mm thick. I sent a horrible basic diagram photo on my phone to Rick B.'s phone at Kingpin and spoke with him about the idea of spreading the stress from jacking over a longer length of the slider bar.
[cue drum roll]
Baddabing! Here's the prototype "Kingpin Jack Channel". It will need some rubber inner tube scrap in the channel to grip the bar and a hitch pin to secure it to the Hi Lift tongue I think. I will test it and see. (It came raw and then I primed it and sprayed it.)
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Great Idea ----- AGAIN!! Ross - top work that man! Frank
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From the photos the FFR has the high-lift lifting points on the bull bar, does it have the same at the back like the RFSV does on the jerry holder/tyre carrier.
Whilst a great idea, if it does have existing points why would you need more on the slider, do you expect it to be more stable/safe?
I use the existing standard army lift points to change my tyres on my RFSV and love the fact they have a pin that goes through the jack and the mount point on the vehicle so the jack can not fall out when lifting.
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Hi David, I don't have the rear sockets as per the proper RFSV. The front sockets do not have the 'safety pin' and with diesel at 1.60 per litre I am thinking of cutting some weight, maybe stashing the front bar at first and refitting the lighter coathanger.
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....
I use the existing standard army lift points to change my tyres on my RFSV and love the fact they have a pin that goes through the jack and the mount point on the vehicle so the jack can not fall out when lifting.
Mine did not come with any pins but I made up four as per the pic and they can be left in place if required
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Also to be noted is that the sliders fit a GS model much more simply than a FFR.
The hassle on the FFR is the lid for the Aux Battery Locker on each side of the Perentie.
Rick at Kingpin said that one FFR has deleted the hinge from the lower side of the lid and then employed more budget locks on the sides. This problem is where we have to do some thinking about alternatives and we'll deal with it later.
I’m interested to see your solution to this, I asked him about what to do on FFRs and he explained the same, put he said he dint have any pictures to see what it looks like.
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The panels have easy-of-hand-tool access for each side of the lockers, not the top or the lower edge. Looking at options, I will remove the original piano hinge and install overctr clamps on each side. Simples. (crosses fingers). Took some pics today after green and tan were applied as I was painting other items the same day.
In the photos... as intended, the sliders don't stick out too much.
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Trial for the "Kingpin Jack Channel" on the slider. Admittedly its a cement base, its not off road, but its a start. So far, so good.
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What a great idea Ross well thought out and made. Well done. Phil
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Putting aside the Aux Batt. Locker Lid issue for a week or more and getting on with another mod - fitting Jason's set of double rear jerrycan holders that a based on the original RFSV design.
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Here is Jason's CAD plan for the repro Twin Jerry Holders. There was a hiccup in the first 10 of the production run as the passenger side jerry holders' chassis/tub crossmember bolthole bias backplate welded in the same as the driver side bolthole bias. The first run of repro twin jerry holder sets were dip galvanised. Jason did a second production run with the backplate correctly turned around for the correct passenger side bias and these sets were electroplated zinc.
I have etch painted and painted a passenger side electroplated twin holder and fitted it up yesterday to check the mounts and its fine. Before I properly install it ....I will fit the rubber buffers (which I do not have at the moment). (Then I have to install the top pieces with the stay/hook from between the jerrycans that connects using a U shaped bracket to the rear of the tub in the same real estate as the footman loops for the canopy. This piece is also etched and painted).
The first step was to remove the single jerry holder.
- remove the 3 bolts holding the mudflap and the horizontal metal loom protector between the mudflap and the rear crossmember.
- remove the 2 nuts and bolts from the rear combo tail-light. The loom protector plate can now come off (and a whole lots of gravel and dirt with it).
- remove the rear combo tail-light to be able to access the 2 bolts on the outside of the jerry holder near the end of the exhaust pipe. Loom involved has some slack but the bullet connector has to be unplugged. Good time to examine the bullet internals and maybe electro lube them too.
- remove the side bolts (13mm) and the twin chassis/tub crossmember bolts (13mm). No corrosion seen at all on these. Beaut!
Does the single jerry holder now fall off? Nope, there is still a metal thread phillips head number 2 screw and nylock nut (10mm) which is in a hole in the floor/base of the jerry holder and goes thru a small hole to the top of the rear (arched) airlift swing down tongue. Now this was a hassle. The phillips head was soft and mostly stuffed after 28 years and wasted about 20minutes and some WD40 before it was off using small multi-grips and a 10mm socket on a small extension piece.
Once the single was off I offered up the twin holder and checked the fit. All good.
The question is now whether to bother drilling a hole in the base of the new set of twin holders - because Jason's repro holders do not have the hole for the metal thread screw or the counter-sunk room for the phillips head for that matter. The original Mk1 RFSV twin holders do have the hole and it is countersunk to get the screw head out of the way of the base of a jerrycan. I know because I also have one of those original twin holders.
Here is a picset of the small screw/bolt in question. (In this example picset from the forum there is a hex head small bolt used).
Thinking about it I surmise it is to prevent a rattle between the holders and the airlift chassis bit. A rubber insert would not be an alternative here. So I will get a countersunk hole sorted.
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Bit more etching and painting today, on the drivers side set. Had to warm all the parts up in the loungeroom first same as the passenger side the other day. Its cold outside.
Today I have also noticed that Jason's repro twin holders are not drilled for the rivets that attach the rubber jerrycan buffers. The RFSV Mk1 twin holder I mentioned that I have ...does have the buffers and they compare well to the std piece as used in the single holders. Identical spaced rivet holes. So, where do I go to get those buffers?
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Bit more etching and painting today, on the drivers side set. Had to warm all the parts up in the loungeroom first same as the passenger side the other day. Its cold outside.
Today I have also noticed that Jason's repro twin holders are not drilled for the rivets that attach the rubber jerrycan buffers. The RFSV Mk1 twin holder I mentioned that I have ...does have the buffers and they compare well to the std piece as used in the single holders. Identical spaced rivet holes. So, where do I go to get those buffers?
Hi Ross
You can get the rubbers at Land Rover dealer
Cheers
Rod
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Thx for that Rod. Will chase them up.
ROPS details:
HYG2543, Rubber Strip, U shape, 30mm wide, 280mm long, 13mm thick, with 3 x 6mm diameter mount holes,
HYG2652, Metal Strip, clamping, buffer to jerrycan holder using 3 Rivets, steel, 4.8mm diameter, 9.6mm grip length
update 1 -ordered from local LR Dealer, about $44.40 incl. gst per unit (one rubber piece with one metal strip).
update 2 -arrived next day, Rubber is in new condition. Poul says the LR warehouse has a climate controlled section for rubber and other parts. Mount holes correct.
also found a closer pic of the original RFSV Mk1 twin jerry fittings.
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Another day off.
Last week I had an emergency stop in the LRCV in peak hour. The Perentie pulled up well but it could do better. I took a look underneath (see pics) aaaaaand so I'm going to replace ye ancient original issue looking flexible brakelines with new ones.
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More thinking on the modification of the FFR Auxilary Battery Locker Lids.
The mod has to be done to get around the rock sliders replacing the original Perentie sill panels. The piano hinge on the bottom of each locker lid will not work with the slider bar.
Here are options I rejected:
Idea A: we use another pair of "Budget Locks" on the bottom (same as those fitted to the top of the lids)?
Idea B: we use over center clamps fitted to the panel beside the lockers? Problem is they work on matching plane, or need to be on level surfaces. The lid sits out from the surrounding body panel.
Idea C: we fabricate a fitting to join the lid to the sliding battery tray pins (using an angled U channel steel piece at the tray pin end and rivets onto the interior of the locker lid panel)?
And the winning idea so far:
Idea D: we fabricate a fitting fixed by rivets at one end onto the inside of the locker lid, and at the other (angled) end a M10 hole to match a "pin" fixed onto the lower panel (where the sill panel joined)? This pin and an R clip would use the existing lower panel boltholes as seen/circled in the following photos:
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Trial fit of the repro passenger side twin jerry holder from Jason Ede.
The top clamp that is bolted above the jerry cans does not fit well with the modern large outlet water jerrys from ProQuip. The Proquip "handle" is shorter due to the larger spout. The clamp suits the original Nylex type water jerrys with the small spouts of course.
update - Mike sent me a comparo group of photos showing the fact that the original (top clamps) do indeed fit both the ProQuip and Army Nylex jerrys. Jason's clamps are longer, they sit out from the rear bodywork further. The clamp mounting bolts to the body are also a different width apart.
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In the last couple of weeks things have been hectic but some small bits of progress.
Twin jerry holder fitting job:
The twin jerrycan holders' rubber buffers are fitted. Found that the correct rivets for the jerry can rubber buffers are steel 4.8mm diameter with 9.6mm grip.
Found that there is a fitting problem with the repro twin jerrycan holders made up by Jason (another oversight in detail regarding FFRs). On the drivers side chassis rear cross member there is a original FFR welded bolt 'eye' fitting (seen in the photo in yellow circle), that prevents the holder sitting correctly - it cannot be bolted up because of a 20mm gap. Rather than cut off the 'eye' on the cross member I cut out the required relief in the front left corner of the repro holder's base and inner left side to allow clearance -after I put in steel jerrys and saw there was room in the corner of the jerry holder for the 'eye'.
(For the RFSVs which were FFRs to begin with, the 'eye' must have been moved inwards and rewelded I suppose, but for standard FFRs... its still there.)
Aux Battery Locker Lids Mod/fitting job:
I cut off the hinges on the lids at the center leaving the welded half on the locker lids as reinforcing. This meant I could offer up the lids to work out a lower mount solution something like Ideas option D (posted on 1st Aug post above).
See photo.
Now that the lid is close to where it should be two more ideas have been entertained for the "hinge replacement" mount including Series 2 door hinges and smaller versions of the gardenning tool wing nuts. The door hinges were nixed after considering the bolts would have to pass right thru the slider bars and create 4 weak spots per side - or 4 ugly welding spots. The wing nut idea would work because -just like the anti-luce idea- the rubber door seal used does compress and tension the lid. The M8 or M10 size hole drilled thru the lower reinforced section (half of the original hinge), could locate the thread / bolt for a wingnut. To open a lid would require using the budget lock key at the top after undoing the two lower wingnuts.
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G'day Carzee.
Loving the build thread and detailed processes.
A couple of notes about the rear crossmember 'welded eyelets'.
These are the Cargo tail gate hinge tabs. Same position on all chassis as they all started the same.
The only ones removed where the RHS one on rfsv for the reason you found- fouling the double Jerry holder. Only that side due to the offset nature of the hinge.
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Thx Dave, here for the record are some photos of the "mods" to the twin jerry set made to Jason's set to fit a std FFR rear quarter -simply done with a bench drill and grinder. Cold gal undercoat used.
1. The Pro Quip shorter handle water jerry mod A -making the clamp to body bracket shorter/closer to the bodywork on both sides.
2a. The Pro Quip shorter handle water jerry mod B -making the clamp jaws slimmer for both sides. (not discussed in posts above)
2b. painted cold gal
3. The clamp to body bracket backplates were trimmed one end to fit the FFR rear quarter neatly/lay flat.
4. The tailgate eye (driverside only) cut out/relief mod on the jerry tray front rhs corner. (to enable a flat seating of the jerry tray)
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The twin jerry job is not yet done. The clamp on the driverside is twisted and won't seat in the jerry handle correctly (I must be unlucky) and will have to be cut and rewelded. But I'll put a photo of the "nearly done" job here. Many thanks to Wayne, my "works foreman".
Also, of interest to fellow Landy rivet-counters...
a photo of the original issue backplate for the clamp bracket on the RFSV/SRV-SF rear tub I have
a photo of the extra reinforcing rivets on the RFSV/SRV-SF rear tub I have
and, for comparison, a photo of my FFR holes and rivets
nb, a member messaged me with more info on the rear quarter reinforcement variations (thanks for the info):
"G'day Ross... there are a few small points that are wrong, your tub, (the SRV SF one) it is different to the RFSV and FFR tubs...
Whilst the dual rear jerry bracing bracket is the same as the RFSV Mk1 & Mk2 and also the Regional Force FFR ADD versions, the tub doesn't have some of the extra reinforcing that the RFSV versions have in the rear because of the lack the internal box tie down points left over from the Mk1 RFSV boxes.
"However your SRV SF tub has many other additional bracing and fastening features that the RFSV and FFR tubs don't have. There are also quite a few differences in the purpose built RFSV tubs (3600kg GVM) to the converted FFR (3200kg GVM) RFSV versions.
"Lots of people try and say that they're the same, but there are many differences in the versions."
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Nice one Ross - great detail and very easy to follow - top post! STDDIVER
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Thanks for the encouragement Frank. Here is some more on the Aux Batt Locker Lid mod. The mod is to work around the new rock sliders.
I mentioned a few options on just how to get around the loss of functionality of the original lid bottom hinge...
"I cut off the hinges on the lids at the center leaving the welded half on the locker lids as reinforcing.
"Now that the lid is close to where it should be two more ideas have been entertained for the "hinge replacement" mount including Series 2 door hinges and smaller versions of the gardenning tool wing nuts. The door hinges were nixed after considering the bolts would have to pass right thru the slider bars and create 4 weak spots per side - or 4 ugly welding spots. The wing nut idea would work because -just like the anti-luce idea- the rubber door seal used does compress and tension the lid. The M8 or M10 size hole drilled thru the lower reinforced section (half of the original hinge), could locate the thread / bolt for a wingnut. To open a lid would require using the budget lock key at the top after undoing the two lower wingnuts."
In the last week I saw another idea on feebay and so I cut up some steel angle (250mm long) to try it once the hardware arrived. Well, it arrived, it fits, and this hinge looks like a good solution...
"SSteel Pintle Hinge". See pics.
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Last Saturday 15 Sep 18 my friend Wayne looked over the options I had for doing the modification to the Battery Locker Lid hinges.
The pintle hinge solution was trialed using clamps and found to be a big PITA to get right. Another solution using the same angle bar I had made presented itself - wing nuts on bolts welded to the angle bar of simply wing bolts into the lid with coupling nuts welded to the angle behind.
Late in the morning some purchases were made: M8 size coupling nuts (22mm long) and wing bolts (40mm long). The angle bar was drilled and bolted to the lip of the lower front part of the locker using M6 bolts. Some of the rubber door seal was nipped and removed to make room for the angle bar. Also some Locktite lube was applied to the M8 couplers to keep rust problems to a minimum. As it turned out the 40mm wing bolts go the full length of the threads of the couplers.
Late in the day the job was done but for some paint on the parts. Today the cold gal and top coat paint was applied.
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Time for an update.
We are getting closer to the annual Corowa Swim-In and tidying things up etc. I have an order in for Protec pressure pac OD at the local retailer but still waiting, 3 weeks now.
Some purchases for the LRCV: I attended a local coffee/chat and Dave had his 6x6 camper there. I investigated it and found he has trialed and tested different hot water setups and arrived at a good combo - he has a Davies Craig EBP25 12v water pump, $153, from feebay, and a Heat Exchanger (a SSteel and copper stack unit, size "30"), $205 delivered, supplied by Scintex in SEQ. It connects to the engine heater hose.
Today the HE and the EBP arrived and next I have to decide where to locate these items...
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I have had a heat exchanger item in my County since 1993 in my opinion they are not worth a **** full of snow, bloody useless, I have now a gas heater type which works exceptionally well, but I suppose it's up to the individual, cheers dennis
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Hi Dennis, I am trying to install the HW setup with an insulated tank and using quality hose and brass Reece barbs etc. We'll see if it goes better.
Also, more on the work under the hood aka bonnet...
I am removing the standard coolant overflow tank and replacing it. KLR have it as a kit and say the std tank is useless. The only way to check the radiator level reliably is to undo the largish bolt on top of the thermo housing (apparently)..
Also, Wayne and I (both KLR turbo) in Canberra and Scott (N/A) in Newie have recently experimented with extra air input to the Donaldson air drum. Wayne noticed the extra performance with the end cover off when he had a run without it and quizzed Donaldson about the 3.9 and CFM tables they have. They recommended extra air but how to do that?
My truck had a dead spot similar to Wayne's so I removed my end cover... and the dead spot smoothed out. I gained a bit of power too. My engine has not been dynotuned ever but Wayne's engine was done a few months after his turbo install. Wayne was impressed by the result of extra air but how to do it for little costs and simplicity. There maybe many solutions but in the first weeks of 2019 he came up with an auxiliary inlet using the original end cover and some 51mm exhaust pipe which connects some matching air hose. His standard hose is connected to a quality snorkel and his new auxiliary hose goes forward for some cold air near the radiator on the driver side.
I have fitted my modded end cover and tomorrow auxiliary hose is going to be accommodated after the standard coolant overflow tank is removed. I purchased a NOS-in-box end cover at Corowa swap in 2017 for $10 and it came in useful as things turned out.
These are photos of Wayne's GS engine bay after the mod. Looks like new -truth is, his GS is an absolute showpiece. (My engine bay is not pictured because its downright daggy.)
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Ross did Wayne dyno before and after to measure amount of improvement.
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Hi Ross,
Would be very interested to see details and some photos of your hot water set up as I am going to be doing the same thing with a Scintex heat exchanger (eventually).
Just be aware that if you are going to use a tank as hot water storage that it needs to be open vented or if it is pressurized it will need to be a pressure vessel with the appropriate pressure and temperature relief valve fitted.
Would also like to see the details of the new coolant overflow tank.
Cheers Rob
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Ross did Wayne dyno before and after to measure amount of improvement.
Wayne has the result of the first dyno as a reference. He said he will do a second dyno after another trip up to KLR which will be about exhaust manifold upgrades.
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Hi Ross,
Would be very interested to see details and some photos of your hot water set up as I am going to be doing the same thing with a Scintex heat exchanger (eventually).
Just be aware that if you are going to use a tank as hot water storage that it needs to be open vented or if it is pressurized it will need to be a pressure vessel with the appropriate pressure and temperature relief valve fitted.
Would also like to see the details of the new coolant overflow tank.
Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, I was going to keep it simple and mount the scintex and the pump under the centre seat box, down in the space behind the LT95. I was thinking of bolting up a old 50cal ammo tin to hold the HE and the pump. The HW storage will need a expansion release and today I have liberated one from under the bonnet. I wonder if it would do the job?
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Hi Ross,
At your leisure can you give me a little more information regarding your intended tank storage.
Cheers Rob
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Hi Rob. I have 2 ideas so far for tank position.
1. In the tray for the FFR batteries in the locker on the drivers side. Currently have a RFSV stash box in there for the air compressor. I used to carry the LPG bottle in there. I measured the stash box capacity as 32 litres, which is ok. Refiling the tank would be easy with the hose hidden behind the locker lid. I timed a household shower, turned down to minimal flow. I settled on 1 litre per 15 seconds, 4 litres a minute, as my minimal amount/rate. Less than that does not rate as much of a shower to me but is more like light rain. So, over 5minutes duration, I would need 20 litres of water. Yeah, I know, luxuries and first world problems...
2. The FFR battery tray "rails" are two parallel 40mm RHS bars that sit across the chassis rails, from the left side to the right side. In the centre, between the main chassis ladder, nothing is fitted. Except the tailshaft. There is a load of space (as pointed out by Dave [6x6 camper]) for even a 50 litre tank... but then I'd need a filler hose to be able to get water in it.
So I'm stillllllllllll thinking.
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Hi Ross,
Yes I have changed my mind on what set up is best many times. You will be restricted with space and weight but everything is doable to a degree.
I have just had a water tank made that will sit under the tray of the 6x6 that will hold a bit over 400 litres. Not that I will be filling and carrying the weight all time. I intend it to be used when going very remote. (work in progress)
Cheers, Rob
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Thx for the update Rob. I will check your tank at Corowa soon perhaps. 400 litres is 2 "44" drums is it not? Thats long range alright!
In the joblist before Corowa I now have lengthened the list since the whole Heat Exchanger idea:
freshen coolant/anti-freeze
low coolant alarm (see this thread here: http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=6005.0 (http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=6005.0) )
coolant expansion tank upgrade to 300TDi spec
KLR do a kit with quality parts to upgrade the Expansion Tank aka Header Tank aka Coolant Reservoir. A kit presented itself down here and I said yes thanks.
New tank (Bearmach/Europarts) (many after market alternatives out there)
New tank lid (LR genuine)
New hoses to suit (Dayco)
New wormdrive clamps
Fabricated steel T piece, 30mm ID, 1.8mm thick, to fit in the 4BD1 radiator hose.
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Hi Ross,
I am really interested in the coolant expansion tank upgrade if you happen to get it installed with photos.
I really would like to get to Cowra. Hopefully next year. (Work work work)
Cheers, Rob
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Dear Diary :) during the week a little job re-organising the console to suit the dog was completed with the help of Stevie and his carpentry skills. We ended up with a neat looking jarrah hardwood drink cup holder for a pair of largish stainless holders. The holders/the wood sits inside a 50cal ammo tin. I don't think it wise to have drinks and the dog in situ simultaneously however. Cheap fix. The console is evolving as they say.
Yesterday the LRCV got some attention after a 2 day effort on the sister FFR 50-169 (Stevie's). Stevie's FFR (slowly) got a new diesel tank after much looking at alternatives. A LR 90 steel tank was fitted. The filters were changed. But the bleeding procedure caused a day of drama. We got air bubbles when cracking the injectors etc but not much fuel and the LR would fail to fire up for longer than 5seconds. Not enough fuel? We had checked the little troublesome bolt/filter under the transfer pump and it was clean. A new hand pump was fitted on the next day, again not much improvemnt. Back to the sedimenter to 'prove' where the fuel was, all the way to the lift pump. During this double check I found a blocked fule line and used a coat hanger wire to clear it (a mud wasp had moved into a fuel line while the LR was tankless). Bled and fired up and then it had an hour or so run w/o drama. For the trip to Corowa the console and CB was refitted, it got a canopy change, and it got a wheel change as well.
So then yesterday our own FFR / LRCV got some TLC.
A recond. radiator had been waiting about a year to be fitted. It has an Adrad recore not Natrad asian core. At this stage, I sat the radiator on some carpet I filled it up and emptied into a 10 litre bucket to measure how much water it takes to fill the radiator. I did this twice. Both times it was just under 4 litres. Hmmm. The radiator went in all okay. The loose cowl was secured as well.
The front heater hose, the straight one 6 inches long at the front of the 4BD1, was cut off as it looked ancient, and it was replaced. Ditto the old clamps after using the exposed heater pipe to flush the heater core and the block (used a garden hose).
The engine saver was fitted (mech part of the job -not electrical part). The install in the top radiator hose, near the radiator mount, was quick.
The new 300TDi coolant tank was fitted. This required use of two M6 captive nuts and bolts with a center rubber buffer (drilled two M6 holes in the lip of the inside 'guard) and then the third part of the tank mount, the leg downwards from the side closest to the engine, had to be made. The kit does not come with a correctly bent and angled 'leg'. So its a case of getting some aluminium tube, cutting to the length needed, then flattening (hammer) one end then drilling a M8 bolthole on the flat. This will be for the bottom mounting of the leg. I found an existing M10 or m12 bolthole in the steel interior guard, and it was 'in line' for the leg, almost like the factory knew... its down near the chassis rail. The leg was then test fitted to find the right angle to suit the top end of the leg, the plastic tank mount. Then the leg was removed to be flattened at the top end (at the correct angle), drilled for the M6 bolt and then refitted and tightened up. That was it for the tank.
Next was the steel T piece into the lower radiator hose and the connections to the underside of the tank. Last thing: filling the system and getting any air out. I used the bolt on the top of the thermo housing to completely fill 'er up.
More info once the third FFR arrives from Newie (Scotty) and the drive down to Corowa is done.
ed - pics added
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Nice job Ross! Very good read.
STDDIVER
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Monday -- we arrived at Corowa after sunset. The Hume was busy and about 28deg C today. The engine coolant sat on 80 or 85 by the top of the hills around Gundagai.. The hoses didn't drip. The top up of coolant after a "open the thermostat" wander around local streets (before we set off to Corowa), finished off the second container and therefore a full 10 litres was all in there.
By the way, after a run down our part of the hume hwy, I am confident the extra air hose has made the truck run smoother. Tick the box.
The dog settled in on the console for the drive. That worked out well and I think the arrangement is for the long term - I'm happy with it and the dog doesn't get a vote. See photos below. Overnight the dog sleeps downstairs on the front seats.
Saturday -- the return trip involved towing a loaded No.5 trailer and the temperature was the same - i.e., 85 up hills and then a cool off on the downside. The trailer was part of the 'Corowa shopping'. Besides the trailer, ARN 176-391, we picked up supplement window covers and mirror covers (windscreen cover in progress), another RFSV schnorkel set, a FFR aerial base and aerial, a FFR Clark mast clamp and base, a CES jack block (NOS), 2 door bottoms (NOS), a YOTHLR dvd, a Mack 6x6 air tank, and a couple of ammo containers. other stuff I will recall when I unpack. Corowa swap is tops.
The supplementary cam for window covers was first seen about a decade ago and then again at Corowa in 2015. The vehicle wearing them was a minty Series 2a blood box restored by an enthusiast in the Maitland area.
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More info on the drinkcup holders seen above. They're stainless steel from asia on feebay:u 95mm interior diameter. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Drink-Bottle-Holder-for-Marine-Boat-RV-Camper-Universal/302431417571 which are wide enough for thickshakes and for the best camping mugs ever, the Yeti stainless dbl wall "10oz Lowball". The timber support in the tin was made from sealed/stained jarrah and pine by Stevie. Thanks Stevie for a tiny reminder of what Jags and boats look like on the inside. Very up market. Stevie will take orders on 1300-DIY-DIY. :)
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Easter 2019 was a good break although we only went out for a drive on the Sunday, to a local LR Club show 'n shine. See: http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=6042.0
One little job that got done was the etching and painting of the Ibis Troop Scoop Cargo Barrier. The fabricated/folded aluminium barrier was purchased recently. See: http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=6035.0
One side is flat. The barrier won't get too filthy when travelling as the rear of the canopy will cover it. The flat side could easily be fitted with brackets to hold a snatch strap, or a long-handled wheel brace, etc. As long as the fitted item is thin enough to fit behind the tail of the rear canopy. If the non-flat side faces out (the alternative I prefer) then the barrier could multi-purpose as a cuppa prep-table. It just needs a matching flat piece attached (unpainted on the inside), with hinges at the bottom and a budget lock at the top.
Pics: these show the choice between showing the flat inside "outside" ...and the non-flat inside "inside".
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Time for more news. The tac windscreen canvas by Rod looks good. I will attach pics below showing it on Rod's LRCV -the one with Air Conditioning :)
Still haven't done the snorkel but I have put together another Expansion Tank upgrade, this time for Stevie's FFR. Seems to be a obsession of mine to find ways of fighting global warming.
Also acquired a spare NOS thermostat, a spare Blackout Switch and a Brake Booster from Brian to be rebuilt.
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Nice one Ross - It will be interesting to see how much cooler/warner (depending on the thermal circumstances) it makes the vehicle. You are making the LRCV into a real SUV - survival utility vehicle!
Frank
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Hi Frank, the other LRCV should be wearing one soon as well.
I'm now making a large awning, DIY.
I got some lengths of C section aluminium in 3mm as a start the other day. I have looked on google for a supplier of polyester in brown or green. I looked at outdoor furniture UV weatherproof materials. And marine vinyl. Not what we're chasing. The usual tent material is called ??
Anyone know the right name of the material and a supplier?
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Hi Frank, the other LRCV should be wearing one soon as well.
I'm now making a large awning, DIY.
I got some lengths of C section aluminium in 3mm as a start the other day. I have looked on google for a supplier of polyester in brown or green. I looked at outdoor furniture UV weatherproof materials. And marine vinyl. Not what we're chasing. The usual tent material is called ??
Anyone know the right name of the material and a supplier?
Why not ask by pm or phone to FFRMAN ?
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The usual tent material is called ??
Anyone know the right name of the material and a supplier?
Wax Converters sell a wide range of canvas products, both Defence colours and regular lines. Lots to choose from.
http://www.waxcon.com.au/defence-camouflage-tents-and-tarps.htm
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Thanks all, I went with a nylon Auscam and I will just 2 ply it... from Pam in Vic.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183316324640? (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183316324640?)
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Cold weather lately, too cold for painting. Anyway, today the old flexible brake hoses (3) were changed out for HEL brand stainless hoses at the Series Workshop. New fluid too. Johnny has the vacuum brake fluid bleeder setup and it is so quick!
I think the brake booster that was recond. last month (obtained here from Bearman) will wait another month. That job is part of a combo deal - I need to check the firewall under the booster for rust and install a new or decent seal to stop water leaks onto the shoes when its raining. As well, underneath, on the pedal box we would like to upgrade the clutch pedal to the TD5 type and install a butterfly spring to reduce the HD clutch pedal pressure. as per http://lofclutches.com/shop/td5/l-o-f-powerspring-pedal-assister-kit/?v=6cc98ba2045f
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The booking is in for the LRCV to get a Maxidrive HD front axle later this month.
See this thread. http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=6079.0
This will put back the brake booster etc job.
Meanwhile a small job can be done on the Breather Pipes.
Under the bonnet near the top of the engine bay section of the firewall (on the pgr side) is a handful of plastic / poly 6.35mm OD 4mm ID pipes from the ...
axle breathers front and rear, seen in RPS group drawing JAB
the gearbox and transferbox, seen in RPS group drawing FBC
the bellhousing top pgr side, seen in RPS group drawing FB
I am planning to renew the 30 yr old breather pipes with silicon vac pipe and use barbed brass terminals (or similar idea - maybe a 5-into-1 homemade manifold) at the engine bay end to connect the breathers to the pgr side end-cap of the Donaldson Filter Drum.
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The last 3 weeks have been really busy with family matters, so the LRCV hasn't even moved. On the plus side, I now have no excuse not to visit TG/Hawks Nest quite a bit over the next few years.
ps, had a look at a Gewhizwagon light truck at an Aldi carpark yesterday. Sauerkraut must've been on special.
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That last post was September when Mum was diagnosed with dementia.
Since then there have been a few moves on the LRCV.
A new aussie dynaproof canvas 270deg awning came my way from Supapeg. A christmas special I could not resist. $550. 2500long x 2000wide. Can't wait to fit it. The DIY affair will have to go on the driver's side.
I also replaced the front windscreen, the wiper arms and blades and spindle adaptors. Of course because I did this the drought has got worse. But it works great when tested with a garden hose.
I am switching the winch to 12mm synthetic rope. I have swapped out the RFSV bar with a normal coathanger. Both of these moves should reduce front end weight a fair bit. A small snag is the numberplate mount which I am fixing up today with Mr Ryobi, a bit of 30mmSHS, and some paint.
Here is the front end. We are currently dealing with some days of very thick smoke from bushfires. The sunshine is all orange which you can see in the photo. And its above 40deg for a few days. Summer has arrived.
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G'day Mate.
My condolences for your family.
We have been down that long road. Make the most of the good days.
The LRCV is looking great! Good score on the Foxwing.
That is on my list as well.
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Hi and all the best Dave.
The awning supplier (Victoria) has refunded my money (after a week) because of lack of stock, even though their website said they had stock and would ship in the next 48 hrs. Hmmm. Other parts I ordered from them were 2 for 1 and that is what they supplied, perfectly fine deal. Nothing lost. Maybe I was lucky.
Another sus supplier has popped up online - RM Williams gear. It looks legit but no, it is sus (Hong Kong). This link was promoted by Pinterest). This way of operating is a little wild west to say the least.
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This year... what can you say. .. thx CCP.
I replaced the bulb inside the Hella maplight with a LED kit after Greg, a local FFR owner, sorted out the part at Jaycar.
The main news - we decided to upgrade the 'camper' in Long Range Camping Vehicle with a slide-in camper, the kind you can jack up and drive out from under. We are using a set of Reico Titan camper jacks. The way they mount and their size means they also get used as stabilizer legs. They can raise the camper 3ft/900mm (old school mechanical winder model) and each leg is about 10kg.
The first move was to source a Defender Truck Cab. We found one, a 2001 unit, after hunting around 4 states by phone and emails. Just took a fair while...
While we collected new weather seals and other parts required we also began to remove the Maggiolina RTT and the ROPS, and the canopy. When we have finished our "grey nomad" phase the truck cab can be swapped back for the original canopy etc.
Yesterday the windscreen frame was dropped forward onto the pads after removing the wiper arms and the metal guard for the windscreen water sprayers. In the small gap between frame and the top of the dash there was a good collection of dried insects, a straw, and a spare part - long before we owned 50-257 someone lost a small fitting and screw down in there and obviously couldn't get it out -its the little fitting that mounts one end of the blackout flap across the array of idiot lights behind the steering wheel.
a. The rubber weather seal between the windscreen frame and the top of the firewall/bulkhead was (happily) free of corrosion. After a cleanup and another coat of paint a new (genuine) seal will go in.
b. The door seals are way out of date and new ones are ready to go on but first a good solvent clean up, some fishoil on the bulkhead steel sections, some careful use of butyl rubber and cloth tape etc to make a good seal. The new seals we got: one genuine seal ($140) and one Bearmach ($44) due to stock issues. I was in a hurry and it presented a excuse to test for a performance difference. After 5 years I also ordered a new sunvisor. Spending money.. no one cares anymore - the local LR Dealer in Canberra sold out of all of their bright shiny luxury models pretty fast if thats an indication. Dear daughter looked for a new buzzbox but couldn't wait 8 weeks for a manual model - so she looked at used items but then then resigned to keeping her 2005 Barina - prices are going up and up at the moment. Not a good sign.
c. Today the door tops came off. The rusty studs issue was experienced on one stud only. The window felts will be replaced too. A LH door lock mechanism and other bits are also waiting to be fitted.
Thats up to date.
ps, a welder is coming to size up the camper subframe thingy next week.
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Here is a screen capture of my list of parts info involved in a Truck Cab aka Ute cab...
(disclaimer - unofficial of course)
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Hi Ross,
I`m looking forward to see the results and may go the same path.
Please Keep us posted on this .
Cheers,
Mick
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You mean to say you won’t be the trimcast king anymore?
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Hi hows your air con?
TC should still work for me in the 'camper'. Its not a glossy magazine camper... but it won't look too shoddy either.
Its gonna be lightweight and simplicity inside similar to a pantec.
I want to be able to wipe the walls down for dust, ants and flies - minimum of marine carpet and electronics.
Bed, fridge inside with trimcast food and clothing storage.
If its a bad bog you can unload the trimcast and the jerries etc.
Water/sink/shower outside.