Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
Vehicle Variants => Workshop Vehicles => Topic started by: juddy on June 21, 2012, 08:51:57 PM
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Today was D-Day, picked up Mr Workshop.... I had to look twice a CEVA, there was another Workshop there, chap said it was on its way to Sydney.
Heres a few pictures of it, sorry i could not get Build details, he was in the process of loading it.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0739.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0740.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0741.jpg)
And on to Mr Workshop
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0742.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0747.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0748.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0752.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0753.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0754.jpg)
I am missing a number of the tie down points for the canvas rope, can we still get these or alternatives, and also are they welded on?
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0756.jpg)
I also have leaks on the hubs, are seal kits available???
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Bet your happy to have Him home Juddy!, The tie points points are held on with blind rivets, just drill through them and the broken clips come off, you can find simular tie downs made by Moss, an internet search should find them, just use normal 3/16 rivets to replace them,
Hub seals are very easy to get too.
MC
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Hi Juddy
Thats my workshop you saw in the yard.Hope its not going to Sydney.They didn't say when i will get it???Yours looks rather complete.
I saw the photo and couldn't believe it.
Dave
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Bet your happy to have Him home Juddy!, The tie points points are held on with blind rivets, just drill through them and the broken clips come off, you can find simular tie downs made by Moss, an internet search should find them, just use normal 3/16 rivets to replace them,
Hub seals are very easy to get too.
MC
Thanks MC...
Is the hub seal seal, replacement a big job????
Moss" what else do they make/sell. cant find anything??
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Hub seal replacement is not a huge job but will take some time, you will need new seals, locks and gaskets.
I think Moss make supplies for Caravans and probably ute body parts.
MC
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Hub seal replacement is not a huge job but will take some time, you will need new seals, locks and gaskets.
I think Moss make supplies for Caravans and probably ute body parts.
MC
Any idea what state there in????
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Hi Juddy
Thats my workshop you saw in the yard.Hope its not going to Sydney.They didn't say when i will get it???Yours looks rather complete.
I saw the photo and couldn't believe it.
Dave
You should be able to see where it's at on the CEVA website, the tracking link should give you an ETA of where and when it's arriving.
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Looks just like one that was down here ;)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10070.jpg)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10071.jpg)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10073.jpg)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10075.jpg)
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Looks just like one that was down here ;)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10070.jpg)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10071.jpg)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10073.jpg)
(http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac32/aliend2/remlar/remlr/SDC10075.jpg)
Hi Juddy
Thats my workshop you saw in the yard.Hope its not going to Sydney.They didn't say when i will get it???Yours looks rather complete.
I saw the photo and couldn't believe it.
Dave
You should be able to see where it's at on the CEVA website, the tracking link should give you an ETA of where and when it's arriving.
Thanks I will have a look. Dave
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Work started today, well this afternoon, and managed to get the tub of ( thanks MC for the telephone technical support ) a few rusted bolts holding the tub on, and had to get the grinder out for the shocks.....
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0013.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0014.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0003.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0004.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0007.jpg)
Next up start cleaning and painting the rear, plus sort out the front drag rod, and exhaust...
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I have noticed some kind of re- forcing plate on the arrowed part, was this standard??
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/Screenshot2012-07-15at103333PM.png)
Also the rear cross member is not the square military type was there a reason for this???
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Hello Juddy,
I have seen the reinforcing plate on several workshops, Not sure why it was done though, Your rear crossmember looks to be the standard Australian Army 2A spec(correct for your LR) to me.
MC
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Well Yesterday I did some more painting, removed the old cylinders, both look to be very good condition, and will be refurbished and kept as spares.
I had to remove the wheel bearing as it was leaking ( never done this before ) but i did not find it that difficult, I also got round to putting together the parts bath, just need some for fluid in it.....
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0014-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0017.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0018.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0019.jpg)(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0020.jpg)
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G'day, your rear cross member is definately a 2A army cross member, but the next cross member with the reinforcing plate on it is a series 3 style cross member, the earlier 2a simply had a square cross member and looks like the late 2a had the series 3 cross member, make sense? A lot of series 3 modifications came through in the late series 2a's.
I'll try and put up a photo.
Restoration is starting to look good.
Regards
Scott
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Ah, A man who knows... Thanks Scott......
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Attached photo of my 1964 2A workshop with tray off before I started the restoration, see the square second rear cross member (it has a whole cut in it roughly by oxy torch after service), different than Juddy's later series 3 type.
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Well another day another Workshop job or 2 completed.
Refitted new shoes and cylinders, this was a bit of a fight, the low point of this little mission was one of the threaded shafts on a new brake cylinder snapping off. I can only really blame myself here, as it was a Brit-Part item, I was trying to save some money and it did not work, as a rule I try and avoid the stuff, and from now on i will stick to that
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0044.jpg)
Next Up was the rear bearing and seal replacement, this went alot better than the brakes.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0046.jpg)
We then started on the Brake Pipes, I have used a Automec ready made kit ( we now stock these if anyones Interested ) discount for any REMLR member..... Very nice bit of kit, and very simple to install, genuine new brake pipe shields, clips and grommets were also used ( We can also supply these ). I have yet to do the forward part of the vehicle with the Automec kit, but I am confident it will be as simple as the rear.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0045.jpg)
Lastly fitted the genuine Land Rover Genuine rear mudflaps ( this came with a fitting kit ) I have a set to go on the front when we get there..
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0043.jpg)
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Hi there Judy
The rebuild is going well - as for:
I can only really blame myself here, as it was a xxxxx item, I was trying to save some money and it did not work, as a rule I try and avoid the stuff, and from now on i will stick to that
I must admit I also been caught out........
Wayne
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How do the brake pipe kits work? they all come in lengths, or with a bender to bend.
What are the lines made of, copper or steel?
I'll be needing ALL brake and clutch lines replaced on my ambulance as most rusted away. So a whole solution kit is of interest to me.
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Theres 2 options
1 Is a kit, all the lengths are pre cut to the original spec with the correct fittings, all the fittings have a number on them corresponding to the correct location for fitting. You unbend yourself, I was apprehensive at first in doing this, but it was not a problem. I have only done the back so far on mine, the only extras you will need are the rubber grommets and clips if required..
2 Buy the rolls and brass unions and make up yourself. Theres a number of flaring tools to pick from as well as a clamp a punch set.
Standard is Copper ( The supplier in Australia supplies the better Copper Nickel version as standard )
Theres a kit for every land rover ever made.........
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I didn't think copper lines were allowed in australia? I thought they had to be steel?
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Never heard there not.....
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I didn't think copper lines were allowed in australia? I thought they had to be steel?
I have heard this too.
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Soure:
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP5_Section_LG_Brakes_V2_01Jan2011.pdf
Depending on where you look most sites selling the stuff and a UK Copper industry body suggests that the copper-nickel product does meet SAE J1407.
However I still couldn't find a definitive answer though.
If you are pro copper-nickel then you could interpret it that because it meets SAE J1407 that you should be able to use it and that the reference in 2.4.7 refers to copper and not copper-nickel.
If you are anti copper lines then you could argue that 2.4 which says "...must be made from steel..." excludes the use of other alloys.
So still not a conclusive interpretation either way, but at least copper-nickel, if you choose to use it, does sound a lot more practical than pure copper tubing.
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Normally Priced at AU$xxx inc GST + shipping
Cunifer CNF-3 - 3/16"/4.75mm OD tubing x 25 foot
Cunifer� is a seamless, copper nickel alloy DOT approved for brake and hydraulic lines.
From a Australian Suppliers website
As strong as steel
Completely corrosion proof
Easier to work with than any other brake line.
All tubing conforms to hydraulic brake tubing specifications:
SAE J1650, DIN 74234 BS 2871 FMVSS-106.
High performance manufacturers such as Aston Martin, Porsche, Volvo and Audi have chosen to install copper-nickel alloy over all other materials including stainless steel brake lines.
article: copper-nickel brake tubing
It is easy to bend, does not distort and can be snaked into positions that conventional brake lines cannot. Cunifer� also flares easier, seals better and requires less preparation than any other tubing on the market. It does not rust, so it is perfect for any environment.
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para 2.7.4 Hydraulic Pipes certainly states "Copper tubing must not be used for hydraulic brakes"
2.4 COMPONENT STANDARDS is pretty clear to my mind, "Hydraulic pipes must be made from steel bundy tube complying with SAE J1047 or equivalent" . Meaning that the steel tube needs to comply, not must comply with standard. I jsut wish I could remmeber where I heard it before. I'll have to ring a mate who is a transport inspector and ask.
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Have to look into this more, but from what I have read so far, these products are fine.
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In my experience, in NSW, the ONLY brake tubing that is legal AS A REPLACEMENT is steel bundy tubing.
Some imported vehicles are now coming in with alloy tubing.
In these cases the manufacturer is responsible for certifying that the items / vehicles meet compliance.
I have been involved in a number of L to R conversions and the rules are very specific regarding steel tubing.
Check out page 7 on this link.
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/vsb_04.pdf
Also found this for Qld.
From Queensland Transport
HYDRAULIC LINES
Reasons for rejection:
• Hydraulic lines are not securely mounted, not free from damage or corrosion, show evidence
of leakage and are not constructed of approved material. (See Note 1)
NOTES:
(1) Normal commercial copper tubing has been prohibited from use in brake systems
because it is considered prone to cracking due to work hardening. However, there is a
Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Recommended Practice called Tubing – Motor
Vehicle Brake Tubing Hydraulic – SAE J1047 which is the accepted industry standard.
Persons wishing to use copper tube for vehicle hydraulic brake lines, must first provide
proof of compliance with SAE J1047 or equivalent standard.
Cookey
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Automec products are saej1047 compliant.
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Ok, I asked my mate who is a transport inspector for the tas tpt department. He ckecked with the state standards manager and confirmed Copper Brake lines can not be used.
Not sure where that leaves the copper nickel ones.
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Checked with my friendly compliance engineer earlier today. According to him the only tubing approved for brake pipes is seamless steel bundy tubing. Note that he is only speaking for NSW, where he is an approved RTA signatory.
He also stated that the standard SAE J1650 has been withdrawn and is no longer applicable, and he is not aware to date of any standard that supersedes this.
His advice to me is DO NOT USE COPPER OR COPPER ALLOYS for road registered vehicles.
Cookey
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Interesting..
I will up date once I have had a talk with Infrastructure and Transport.
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Ok, I asked my mate who is a transport inspector for the tas tpt department. He ckecked with the state standards manager and confirmed Copper Brake lines can not be used.
Not sure where that leaves the copper nickel ones.
That would be correct Copper only is not allowed........
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G'day Folks :)
There is a steel tube copper lined that is available for brake tubing, i used it on my 2a when I rebuilt it in 92,it should be available, I just saved my original fittings, and had them refitted to the new pipes with the correct double flares,the later type of fittings are metric thread, so will not fit the standard 2a cylinders of joiners.
cheers
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Having spoken to the manufacture , I have been advised that the product is certified for use within the Australian market.
Tech Specs
COPPER NICKEL BRAKE TUBE DATA SHEET
Specification
We 90/10 Cupro Nickel, which conforms to BS 2871 part 3, CN102 as well as BS EN 12451.1999. This material is 100% electrically and pressure tested. Every batch is also destructively tested for tensile and burst pressure results. Residue testing to BLS.30.JC.101 is also carried out on every batch to ensure cleanliness standards are met.
Working pressures 22g = 0.028” = 0.71mm 90/10 Cupro Nickel
O.D. Recommended maximum working Theoretical burst pressure
Lb/in/in Bar lb/in/in Bar
3/16” 3100 214 14000 1065
¼” 2250 155 9500 770
5/16” 1740 120 7500 600
3/8” 1450 100 6000 500
½” 1090 75 4000 370
(This is not applicable to thin walled copper ie 22g = 0.028” = 0.71mm, which should not be used for brake systems)
Dimension tolerances
Outside diameter +/- 0.002” = 0.051mm
Wall thickness 22g = 0.028” = 0.71mm +/- 10%
The length tolerance for coils of 25ft = 7.62m is –0.05m + 0.10m
Ink Jet Marking of Brake Tube
All coiled brake tube and most straight lengths of brake tube supplied by us are ink jet marked for full tracibility. The mark consists of a message repeated after every 4 to 6 inches along the length of a coil containing the following information:
1. Metal batch number, e.g. M1580 could be suffixed by one letter. This is also repeated within the message.
2. Size and material reference, e.g. 3/16” x 22g cupro nickel
3. Time and date by 24-hour clock and a sequential day/year reference, e.g. 14.53 288/6. (It is possible for there to be two different times on the tube)
4. “Automec” inkjet marked every 4”
An example of a Cupro Nickel would be:
M1580 3/16”x22g M1580 10.42 116/8
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These arrived today....
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/DSC_0048.jpg)
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Where did you get them from and how much .
Dave
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Where did you get them from and how much .
Dave
I have a new supplier...... PM me for further details.
I like the fact I can still get the glass only.....
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These arrived today, any ideas what it is?
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0224.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0225.jpg)
And what would you use these for???
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0226.jpg)
More work done last weekend, well it took longer than I thought to do the blasting....
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0218.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0217.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0214.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0212.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0211.jpg)
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Well its been a few weeks since I last posted a news update
I have been looking at a improved brake system, having looked at the s3 servo set up, I have now been drawn to this remote set up
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/CopyofServo006.jpg)
It could be the way to go..
Heres a few pictures of stuff so far...I decided to go the all hog and fully strip down the front, Ihave also found some nice new MOSS body fittings for the rear tub
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0031.jpg)
Testing
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0001-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0016.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0009-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0008-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/photo-16.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/photo-15.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/photo-14.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/photo-12.jpg)
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Following on from the mess above, this is what I have managed so far...
These are the under wing splash plates, I thought they were ok, but fter removing them, ones got a fair bit of swiss cheese, the other ones got a slight bend, and the steering box cover (not show ) is very bad, so I have opted to replace with some Genuine Land Rover ones...
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0078.jpg)
These are one set of brake cylinder that I removed, I am going to re sleeve and put into stock...
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0077.jpg)
This pictures shows Front bearing components, brake pipe and set bolts
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0076.jpg)
Here we have, swivel pin lever ( middle of picture ) Retainer for oil seal right hand side of picture, steering drop arm, left, bottom of picture longitudinal steering tube, with one new ball joint, old cut one in the other end still.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0075.jpg)
Swivel Housing(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0074.jpg)
Looking alittle sad.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0038.jpg)
The other side all read to put back on
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0039.jpg)
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Great Pictures thank you.
I'm just about to embark on that same project with my 2A.
Seeing someone else do makes it seem a little less daunting.
Cheers
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So far I have really enjoyed taking it apart, there's been some bad days but overall very good.
You have to decided from the start, do I keep as or do a major rebuild, you. Can't cut corners.
It takes more time but it will be worth it.
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Did a detour today and did alittle more on Mr Workshop...
Sprayed all the wheels, could be better but they will do.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0097.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0098.jpg)
Did x2 jerry can holders (these are located at the rear)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0096.jpg)
Heres a few pics of the rebuilt swivels pins, stub axle, brakes etc.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0100.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0101.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0102.jpg)
These are the new land rover splash guards, they need painting, but they are top quality and fit well.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0105.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0111.jpg)
These are the clutch/brake covers and seals, I only require 1 of each so now have spares.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0106.jpg)
I have already fitted a set of these ( so these will have to be spares )
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0113.jpg)
Not sure why I got this, still its new old stock genuine so I will give it a clean and fit.. cant hurt
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0109.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0093.jpg)
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As I will be fitting a radio, I have decided to go with the following wing mount kit. I have had this for over 5 years so its about time I used it, it will have a clansman type wing box. Now I know clansman was never fitted to a Australian vehicle ( well not in service ) but its close to larkspur I have the kit so its going in, plus I need to talk with something else in the wings thats clansman based....
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Landybitz/DSC_0073.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Landybitz/DSC_0074.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Landybitz/DSC_0072.jpg)
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Good to see it coming along Juddy, You found some Moss clips i see, well done.
MC
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Yes I found some New ones, theres 2 different types small and large, large for workshops, Bunnings sell the small ones, I had to get the large ones from New Zealand of all places, Oh I could have got them from one supplier here, must order 1000.
The Workshop rebuild seems to have slowed a little, painting as began but we have had paint issues ( see the paint post I started ).
Engine is staying is, its more or less cleaned up , and will say original for now, i rather like it that way, just clean and tidy.
Steering is all done, had issues with the tie rods, some of them kept spinning when tightening the nut, well strange.
Rear tub is painted on the underside, and hopefully will be fitted in a few weeks.
Winch is ready to go in, along with the bumper. ( I require a new one at some point bumper that is.) Radio stuff will go in after that.
In the coming week or so, fluids and filters will be changed and rear electrical work completed.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0154.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0155.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0156.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0157.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0161.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0164.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0160.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0105-1.jpg)
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Hi there Juddy
I must admit it is in good condition - keep up the good work
All the best
Wayne
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Another day another week, another month.
Today, I spent a good few hours, stripping and fitting new bullet connectors for the rear lighting. Fitted the body, and test fitted the front doors, fixed the lefthand side TAC plate mount, cleaned the shed.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Workshop%20Land%20Rovers/workshopnov4thpic4.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Workshop%20Land%20Rovers/workshop4thnovemberpic2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Workshop%20Land%20Rovers/workshop4november1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Workshop%20Land%20Rovers/photo.jpg)
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Looking good Juddy!.
MC
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Did alittle work today after a weeks break.
I have noticed theres a very big gap between the wings and the bonnet, the wings are in the correct position and cant be moved up or down, the wings are slight bowed, but enought to make such a large gap, see below.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0066-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0069-1.jpg)
I have still to re paint the awful paint mess, and the panels require further flattening.
I have obtained some new old stock rear axle straps ( these are longer for the workshops ) ran out of bolts so still to do at the weekend.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0055.jpg)
New exhaust bracket
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0054.jpg)
Test fitted bumper and bar, due to the fact the bumper as been straightened its not fitting correctly, the holes dont line up, in turn this making the holes for the bar, off line, so what do I do, New Bar?
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0073-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0072-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0070.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0068-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0067-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0064.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0063.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0062.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0059.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0057.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0056.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0052.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0053.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0046-1.jpg)
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Hi there Juddy
Its strating to take shape mate - well done.
Enjoy
Wayne
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A few more pictures..
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0018-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0014-3.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0016-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0015-1.jpg)
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You are doing a great job Juddy. It looks a completely different car.
I see you got some of those Ex-ADF Steeltreks.
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Yes I found some in Jan of this year, they were $500 for the 5, I thought that was ok, they have 10/15 wear, but a friend of mine got a pallet of them last year ( did not know this at the time ) and his were $20 each. I would have put some XZL's on but not at the price they are new...
What was the correct tyre for these?
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Hi Juddy,
Looking fantastic, the front TAC plate holder I gave you sits nice and square (passenger side) the other makes it kick back at the top, is it a different shape? (the one I gave is correct as it is the same as all my others).
The most common tyre was Olympic Trojan Bar treads 7.50 x 16, but there where other brands of bar treads eg Hardi. you can still find some around if you're lucky, I got a set in very good order off a bloke on ebay, check out the tyre thread as I put up a link there. Also when I bought my 2a 88" 112-433 I got a NOS set fitted to rims - they have never been driven on! ;D
Cheers
Scott
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Hi Scott
Yes your TAC bracket sit straight, the one already on the landy, points up a little, it could have been knocked at some point, interestingly yours is slightly smaller in size, but other than the same...
While we are the issue of TAC plates etc, must also thank MC, for the 2 rear ones I got of him earlier on this year..
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I have just been looking at your thread & images and I noticed your rear brakes are fitted ?? Incorrectly, by saying that I mean the brake backing plates are "handed" right n left different part numbers etc. The brake wheel cylinder should be at 12 o'clock to the diff/housing on both L&R rear.
Axle limit straps are the same length on some late ex mil Series 2 109's,(with RAEME chassis extensions only) they are all the same length on all ex mil Series 2A whether they are 88" or 109", the Series 3 would be the same, but just ATM I cannot check the part number from my S3 RPS.
I hope you haven't finished bleeding your braking system, as I don't know what effect having the wheel cylinders at those angles would do, it would be about 2 hours work to correct it. If you have already bled the system, don't panic as all you need to do is clamp off the brake flex pipe and you won't let to much air in, cheers Dennis
Ps I have made mistakes along the way, anyone who states they haven't broken or stuffed a part trying to fit it, we'll I tip my hat to them,,. here is an image of my rhs rear brake assy
(http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/new/IMG_0971.jpg)
***** we are talking military Land Rovers, civvie ones are much shorter,,.
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I have just been looking at your thread & images and I noticed your rear brakes are fitted ?? Incorrectly, by saying that I mean the brake backing plates are "handed" right n left different part numbers etc. The brake wheel cylinder should be at 12 o'clock to the diff/housing on both L&R rear.
Axle limit straps are the same length on some late ex mil Series 2 109's,(with RAEME chassis extensions only) they are all the same length on all ex mil Series 2A whether they are 88" or 109", the Series 3 would be the same, but just ATM I cannot check the part number from my S3 RPS.
I hope you haven't finished bleeding your braking system, as I don't know what effect having the wheel cylinders at those angles would do, it would be about 2 hours work to correct it. If you have already bled the system, don't panic as all you need to do is clamp off the brake flex pipe and you won't let to much air in, cheers Dennis
Ps I have made mistakes along the way, anyone who states they haven't broken or stuffed a part trying to fit it, we'll I tip my hat to them,,. here is an image of my rhs rear brake assy
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/new/IMG_0971.jpg
***** we are talking military Land Rovers, civvie ones are much shorter,,.
Thanks for being the only one to point this out. question then, how on earth do I get them to 12 clock> The backing plate is fixed, I just fitted new ones, of course I did remover the axle, but would this cause the to be not at 12 o'clock, does it matter if there not at 12 o'clock? Brakes have not been bleed yet...
I am no mechanical expert, just did what I thought was right at the time.
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Very nice Juddy, easy on the eye.
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Here is your image of the RHS rear brake as fitted to your L/Rover
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0046.jpg)
this is the brake assembly off the LHS rear incorrectly fitted to the RHS by some-one in the past.
I took a few images using the LHS brake assembly as fitted to the RHS of the differential housing, this is what it looks like
(http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/new/IMG_0984.jpg)
it will fit in another position as well, like this
(http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/new/IMG_0985.jpg),
but both are incorrect, here is the RHS brake assembly fitted correctly
(http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/new/IMG_0986.jpg)
it is so easily done if you are not familiar with the brake assembly layout, like I said before "you've never built repaired anything if you haven't broke something along the way" LOL, anyway Juddy hope thats of some help to you, cheers mate Dennis
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Nearly finished the wing box antenna, and re-pained the electrical box, still undecided on what antennas to go with.....
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0060-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0056-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0057-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0058-1.jpg)
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In the garage..
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0106-3.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0017-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0016-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0015-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0014-4.jpg)
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A little update on things
I was going to leave the inside alone for a while, but the more I got on with it the more stuff came out. I was very surprised to see how dirty it was under there. Any way moving on with cleaning it all up, and getting it painted..
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0001-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0002-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0003-1.jpg)
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(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0007-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0008-3.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0009-3.jpg)
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(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0014-5.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0015-3.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0016-3.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0017-3.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0018-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0019-1.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0020-1.jpg)
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In the garage..
<snip>
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0015-2.jpg)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0014-4.jpg)
Juddy
I've never seen the "D" rings mounted like that before. Was it that way when you got it?
(http://remlr.com/photos/thommo/43.jpg)
(http://remlr.com/vietpix/vwham.jpg)
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The D Rings were a pain in the back side D. Basically they did not line up with a replacement bumper I got, and then even if they had the winch was in the way, so I mounted them on the front. I have seen this done before, Land Rover in fact did it with alot of there special vehicles.
It may not be correct, but thats the way its staying. :P
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The D rings (but not exactly the same type) were mounted in that fashion on the rear of forward controls, but on the top of the bar in front.
I hope the Qld DoT doesn't reject them as protrusions when it comes time to register. Perhaps remove them for the inspection.
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Good Point
Jerry's Dormobiles got them, and Series 3 ex army have them...
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Hi Juddy,
Series 3 Army never had D rings in any position but they did have helicopter/recover points on the front, the 4 bolts are to attach the bumber to the chassis as the front dumb irons on a series 3 are different to a 2A. See photo, this is an FFR at Seymour tank museum.
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Ah yes helicopter lift rings sticking out, but they still stick out...
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If you take a look at the towing/lift rings they are quite small, protruding only about 40mm, with the correct SIII brushguard there are two flat bars forming blunt pedestrian protections above the lift points. These have a similar function to the blunt protections over winch fairleads in the 1980s and 1990s. You will note that these fairlead protections no longer meet the national code of practice for bull bar manufacturers.
While the military may be overlooked for these issues, like the lifting points on perentie 110, civilian authorities can and often will take exception to them. Like they do with front exit exhausts.
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Well we will just have to see will not we. No point being negative .
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Well we will just have to see will not we. No point being negative .
Which is why I suggested to remove them before the inspection, what's not there can't be rejected.
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I would be thinking that the replacement bar you have on the vehicle is most likely a S3 civvie bar. The Series 3 military chassis (109) is different from the civilian type at the front where the bar attaches, the civvie version chassis of the S3 (109 & 88) are basically the same as the S2 etc, but they changed the design of the mounts for the bar, they are shorter from memory. The S3 military chassis has 2 flat sections of steel (minimum 6mm thick) which is welded/supported at the front, the bumper bar lifting pads etc all bolt onto this
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/FFRdemolition004_zpsee390240.jpg
section of steel at the very front of the chassis as shown in image, cheers Dennis
ps please don't ask for anything shown in image as most of it was scrapped 2 years ago,,.
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Hi Dennis
I bought the bumper of Mrs HH, she said it would fit, and it did, just the holes for the d ring did not, maybe it was because it was old and a little bent....
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Could have been that certainly.
The series 3 bar was unique to the army series 3, so was certainly different. It was manufactured here in Australia by Land Rover, as was the lift / towing points.
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Could have been that certainly.
The series 3 bar was unique to the army series 3, so was certainly different. It was manufactured here in Australia by Land Rover, as was the lift / towing points.
Although the actual point have the same general size and shape as the points on the MoD lightweights and 101s, only the mounting plates are different the Brit ones held on with two bolts while the aussie ones with four
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I have been following this thread with interest for a while now and I must say that on the whole it is looking pretty good, although one or two things worry me a bit that this restoration has veered slightly off course as an historic restoration and is now following a more imaginative and fanciful tack.
For a very late S2a, the ATU's on the guard stand out like the proverbial dog's bits as being 100% out of place on this more recent vehicle. One wonders about the logic of placing recovery CES mounts on the guards and then plonking an ATU right in the centre of them rendering them absolutely useless. This sort of inaccurate overkill tends to turn an honest restoration into a bit of a fanciful "wannabe" in the eyes of this average ex-serviceman... a bit like wearing medals one is not entitled to wear!
As for the bar, its mounting points and tow rings, why is the discussion about S3 bars instead of what I would have assumed originally to be a S2a bar? The rear two holes of the towing "D"s should align with the bumper mounting bolts that go right through the chassis dumb irons and the front two much shorter bolts simply correspond with two holes drilled through the bumper bar itself, about half an inch or so behind the brush bar. These towing "D"s were also used to locate a specially made towing A frame usually carried by the recovery vehicle of any packet.
Apart from that it looks pretty good as I said earlier, and I hope you are getting a lot of fun out of the exercise.
Regards
Glen
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I have been following this thread with interest for a while now and I must say that on the whole it is looking pretty good, ....
... This sort of inaccurate overkill tends to turn an honest restoration into a bit of a fanciful "wannabe" in the eyes of this average ex-serviceman... a bit like wearing medals one is not entitled to wear! ...
Regards
Glen
Hi Glen
While I take your point on accurate Vs fanciful restoration, it is a discussion to be had by itself, but at the end of the day it is the choice of the vehicle owner. We're not all trying to be the AWM after all.
Where it differs significantly from wearing medals one is not entitled to wear is that the wearing of the medals is an actual crime, instead of something that may be offensive to some. On that respect the display of any military vehicle is offensive to many people and painting an ex-mil Land Rover majenta or lime green would be offensive to others.
So in respect of Justin's vehicle the finish he has achieved is excellent and apart from some modifications many would not notice it is still something he can be proud of.
Diana :)
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As for the bar, its mounting points and tow rings, why is the discussion about S3 bars instead of what I would have assumed originally to be a S2a bar?
G'day Glen
The S3 brush bar was an evolution of the 'late' S2A bar. In other words, the S3 and 'late' S2A brush bars are exactly the same (apart from the addition of lifting eye flat bar protectors and lower corner convoy light brackets on the S3).
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As for the bar, its mounting points and tow rings, why is the discussion about S3 bars instead of what I would have assumed originally to be a S2a bar?
G'day Glen
The S3 brush bar was an evolution of the 'late' S2A bar. In other words, the S3 and 'late' S2A brush bars are exactly the same (apart from the addition of lifting eye flat bar protectors and lower corner convoy light brackets on the S3).
Hi Tommy
Are you saying that the late Military SIIa (Suffix H) had the chassis extension brackets where the bar bolts on with 8 short bolts through the front face like the SIII military? i.e. not the same as the earlier SIIA ones where they were held on by 4 long bolts dropped vertically through tabs on the bar and the dumb irons of the chassis rails.
Do you have any images of the late SIIa chassis ends?
Diana
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I know how hard they are to straighten, I borrowed a very small porta power jack and used it to straighten out the bracket section (RHS mount) on 113-372, luckily for me I suppose everything lined up as it should have, ?? maybe I was just dead lucky LOL, anyway cheers Dennis
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[/quote]
So in respect of Justin's vehicle the finish he has achieved is excellent and apart from some modifications many would not notice it is still something he can be proud of.
Diana :)
[/quote]
I agree wholeheartedly with your sentiments Diana. The finish is excellent and a credit to him, and definitely something of which to be well and truly proud.
My point is that he has gone to a lot of trouble to do the right thing and a simple time/accessory lapse such as the ATU detracts from that finished result to those, (a minority I know), who DO know the difference.
This was not at all meant as a criticism of Justin's workmanship, or of his vehicle, but more an insight into how some may view an over zealous application of available bits and pieces.
Regards
Glen
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As for the bar, its mounting points and tow rings, why is the discussion about S3 bars instead of what I would have assumed originally to be a S2a bar?
G'day Glen
The S3 brush bar was an evolution of the 'late' S2A bar. In other words, the S3 and 'late' S2A brush bars are exactly the same (apart from the addition of lifting eye flat bar protectors and lower corner convoy light brackets on the S3).
Hi Tommy
Are you saying that the late Military SIIa (Suffix H) had the chassis extension brackets where the bar bolts on with 8 short bolts through the front face like the SIII military? i.e. not the same as the earlier SIIA ones where they were held on by 4 long bolts dropped vertically through tabs on the bar and the dumb irons of the chassis rails.
Do you have any images of the late SIIa chassis ends?
Diana
Diana
No S3 brackets. The dumb irons are standard S2A. The actual 'late' S2A brush bar is the same as the S3.
This photo shows 180-899 after I dropped the original 'late' S2A brush bar so that I could clean out the mud muck. The other photo shows a new bumper with replacement S3 bar after cutting off the lifting eye protectors. The S3 bar bolted straight up to the dumbirons without any problems :).
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Ok hold on boys.... First of thank you Diana for your kind words.
The journey so far as been very Interesting to me and I have learnt so much about these land rovers, I have also received some valuable help from some of our members, and a couple of parts all so came my way, and then there was Mick who was at the start of all this down in Victoria, for his help the lucky man got a Merc.
Also for the recored this is not a concourse restoration by any means, and theres better stuff out there, it was never meant to be that, its good but its not perfect by any means, alot of this is the time, I get bored easy, and always want things done quickly than maybe they should be, so a little more time would have achieved even better results, saying that everyone who's seen it says it look fantastic, and that makes me happy, as does owning a Workshop and a late S2 at that.
Now Glen must be going crazy with the thought of my workshop having a ATU on the wing, well I have to side with him, it looks out of place with the tool holders 100%, and Don't tell him, but its not even fixed its just sitting here, because I wanted to see what reaction I got with it. :o
Leaving the ATU off would leave the Workshop as it was in service, but I wanted to be a little different and have a radio in the thing, I know the early series 2s were fitted with Larkspur so I thought that would be a nice little addition and kind of keeping with what was fitted, yes mine was a late one, but I did not want to fit a clansman box either because that was too modern, I do however have clansman radio that I will fit in the middle seat area, I may have fitted a larkspur set if I had one but I dont. The experts will notice that it should not be there, but Jo public will not have a clue, and I just want to be different, as time goes on I may do something else. I have considered a front mount antenna , and have been offered one in exchange for the larkspur, and I may still go with this option. Back to the ATU, I did not want to remove the tool mounts at this stage, and if I do then I will put rubber blanking plugs in and the ATU will sit better.
The D Rings did not fit due to the winch, even thought the winch mount plates are shaped like the D ring base plate, I can tell you they did not fit, so as my friends Dormobiles got the D Rings on the front ( and passed a QLD roadworthy ) we went for that option. Again as time moves on and I can put them in the proper place I will, as for the winch, I think it looks fantastic, I have never seen a Workshop with a winch, so mines a bit different, and thats what I was aiming for.
We now have a modified section for land rovers, maybe I should be in there????
At the end of the day, I have done what I wanted to do, knowing full well what should be the correct period fittings etc, I have done this to please me, no one else, its my land rover and like someone else said I could paint it pink if I wanted.
At least I have taken the time to restore this land rover and share my journey. And now people know why I have deviated form what should be original.
Wait until its towing a British army cooks or Electrical trailer..... I will be in the brigg for that....
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Diana
No S3 brackets. The dumb irons are standard S2A. The actual 'late' S2A brush bar is the same as the S3.
This photo shows 180-899 after I dropped the original 'late' S2A brush bar so that I could clean out the mud muck. The other photo shows a new bumper with replacement S3 bar after cutting off the lifting eye protectors. The S3 bar bolted straight up to the dumbirons without any problems :).
Hi Tommy
I was confused I thought you were talking about the bumper bar, while you were actually talking about the brushguard. Yes I was aware that the suffix H SIIa brushguard was a modification of the design of the earlier SIIa brushguard to allow for unobstructed headlamps.
The Suffix H SIIa brushguards were modified again for the SIII by the addition of the "U" shaped flat bar protrusions above the lifting points.
Diana
BTW Pete, maybe these bar discussions should be moved to a separate technical discussion.
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Tommy
Here are some images of my bumper bar, just to clarify about the different mountings.
Top view of the chassis dumb irons and extension brackets, there are no tabs on bar and no bolts here to bolt bar onto chassis. (Note no bolts through extensions because they are welded onto chassis)
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m2/Auntikinus/DSCN0637.jpg)
The protruding flat bar over the lifting points.
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m2/Auntikinus/DSCN0639.jpg)
Three of the four bolts holding the bumper bar (and exhaust protection bar) onto the chassis extension brackets. The fourth is hiden behind D shackle.
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m2/Auntikinus/DSCN0640.jpg)
Only the SIII civilian bumper bars are the same/similar to SIIa bumper bars.
Diana
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whats the 2 holes for in the first picture?
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whats the 2 holes for in the first picture?
I would imagine the chassis extension brackets were designed to be bolted on, however when the lifting rings were invisaged the bolts were insufficient to support the weight of the vehicle so the brackets were welded on in production.
I plan to install the bolts when I retrofit the Bamford winch.
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ah I see.
and all those spider webs, is it in a bat cave?
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ah I see.
and all those spider webs, is it in a bat cave?
It hasn't moved in 2 months since it went out for it's annual inspection.
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Hey Juddy, how is the workshop going?
cheers
Scott
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Hi Scott
Work, and other things have meant I have not done alot on it for a few months, I have applied the Xmas Trees, and just about finished the inside, I have the front vents still to sort, and new windscreen glass to fit.
I am waiting for a land rover chap to come and give it the once over before the road test, I am planning to be on the road in a couple of months...
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0280_zpsc25b6db9.jpg) (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0280_zpsc25b6db9.jpg.html)
Playing with ideas for the tool kit..(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0289_zps96253491.jpg) (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0289_zps96253491.jpg.html)
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Christmas tree looks great!
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Took the old boy for a test run today. Was fun. :o
Clutch , and brakes need adjusting, spare set of drums have gone way to be machined and matched with a softer compound shoe.
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0312_zpsc17db170.jpg) (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0312_zpsc17db170.jpg.html)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0311_zps95c875a6.jpg) (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0311_zps95c875a6.jpg.html)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0309_zpse3a80d30.jpg) (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0309_zpse3a80d30.jpg.html)
(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0239_zps2f56cc0a.jpg) (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Workshop%20restoration/DSC_0239_zps2f56cc0a.jpg.html)
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Looking fantastic Juddy!
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Mmmmm............
Very nice.
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:) :) :) :)
oh yeah, looks great.
Its definitely crakkatinnytime!
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You do know all workshops had a fridge in them(for the coldies) crafty fellows them crafties looking very good
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Noice Tri-colour tac plate! 8)
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You do know all workshops had a fridge in them(for the coldies) crafty fellows them crafties looking very good
go on tell me more?
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Strange thing when we were out bush the only guys with cold goffers (sometimes alcoholic) were the RAEME guys
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Two main reasons for cold beer on exercise.
1. steal the fridge from the RAP. Offer to carry medicines in it as well as "refreshments"
2. on a larger scale, wait till a fridge truck has a minor problem, remove the wheels and await spares. Use fridge unit as much as possible.Refit wheels and return it to the parent unit just prior to end of exercise.
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:) right.... Gives you a warm feeling, deep down, to read first hand accounts of the close held fellowship, sacrifice, teamwork and exemplary -even brotherly- sharing of home comforts amongst the good, brave and upstanding members of the ADF. (Maybe the officers as well).
Pass the tissues.
Of course, even IF the exercise organised a boozer tent, the Q clerks back home would've trucked 3 pallets of "beer, support, flat pack" (coasters), and 2 cartons of "beer, mess supplies, 370ml"
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ok now now stop hi jacking my thread with this fridge stuff... >:(
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I'll help!
Workshop looks great!
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Yeh it looks amazing!
Interesting that even being garaged, things like clutch/brakes etc still manage to deteriorate.
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I think the key is to use these things from time to time, however difficult when some bits need finishing, and the new brakes etc were fitted 6 months ago..
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juddy, I have looked at your wksp rebuild a few times,since I bought mine,178 058, last weekend.youve done a wonderful job and I hope I can get my ""old girl"" to that standard