178-065 " MR WORKSHOP "

[cookey]

Checked with my friendly compliance engineer earlier today. According to him the only tubing approved for brake pipes is seamless steel bundy tubing. Note that he is only speaking for NSW, where he is an approved RTA signatory.

He also stated that the standard SAE J1650 has been withdrawn and is no longer applicable, and he is not aware to date of any standard that supersedes this.

His advice to me is DO NOT USE COPPER OR COPPER ALLOYS for road registered vehicles.

Cookey

[juddy]

Interesting..

I will up date once I have had a talk with Infrastructure and Transport.

[juddy]

Ok, I asked my mate who is a transport inspector for the tas tpt department.  He ckecked with the state standards manager and confirmed Copper Brake lines can not be used.

Not sure where that leaves the copper nickel ones.

That would be correct Copper only is not allowed........

[Uncle Ho]

G'day Folks 

There is a steel tube copper lined that is available for brake tubing, i used it on my 2a when I rebuilt it in 92,it should be available, I just saved my original fittings, and had them refitted to the new pipes with the correct double flares,the later type of fittings are metric thread, so will not fit the standard 2a cylinders of joiners.

cheers

[juddy]

Having spoken to the manufacture , I have been advised that the product is certified for use within the Australian market.

Tech Specs

COPPER NICKEL BRAKE TUBE DATA SHEET

Specification
We 90/10 Cupro Nickel,  which conforms to BS 2871 part 3, CN102 as well as BS EN 12451.1999. This material is 100% electrically and pressure tested. Every batch is also destructively tested for tensile and burst pressure results. Residue testing to BLS.30.JC.101 is also carried out on every batch to ensure cleanliness standards are met.

Working pressures 22g = 0.028” = 0.71mm 90/10 Cupro Nickel

O.D.      Recommended maximum working          Theoretical burst pressure
              Lb/in/in                     Bar                          lb/in/in                            Bar
3/16”     3100                          214                          14000                           1065
¼”         2250                          155                          9500                               770
5/16”     1740                          120                          7500                               600
3/8”       1450                          100                          6000                               500
½”         1090                            75                          4000                               370

(This is not applicable to thin walled copper ie 22g = 0.028” = 0.71mm, which should not be used for brake systems)

Dimension tolerances
Outside diameter +/- 0.002” = 0.051mm
Wall thickness 22g = 0.028” = 0.71mm +/- 10%
The length tolerance for coils of 25ft = 7.62m is –0.05m + 0.10m

Ink Jet Marking of Brake Tube
All coiled brake tube and most straight lengths of brake tube supplied by us are ink jet marked for full tracibility. The mark consists of a message repeated after every 4 to 6 inches along the length of a coil containing the following information:

1.   Metal batch number, e.g. M1580 could be suffixed by one letter. This is also repeated within the message.

2.    Size and material reference, e.g. 3/16” x 22g cupro nickel   

3.   Time and date by 24-hour clock and a sequential day/year reference, e.g. 14.53 288/6. (It is possible for there to be two different times on the tube)

4.   “Automec” inkjet marked every 4”

An example of a Cupro Nickel would be:
M1580  3/16”x22g   M1580   10.42   116/8


 

         

[juddy]

These arrived today....

[rotor1]

Where did you get them from and how much .

Dave

[juddy]

Where did you get them from and how much .

Dave

I have a new supplier...... PM me for further details. 

I like the fact I can still get the glass only.....

[juddy]

These arrived today, any ideas what it is?





And what would you use these for???


More work done last weekend, well it took longer than I thought to do the blasting....

[juddy]

Well its been a few weeks since I last posted a news update

I have been looking at a improved brake system, having looked at the s3 servo set up, I have now been drawn to this remote set up


It could be the way to go..

Heres a few pictures of stuff so far...I decided to go the all hog and fully strip down the front, Ihave also found some nice new MOSS body fittings for the rear tub


Testing

[juddy]

Following on from the mess above, this is what I have managed so far...

These are the under wing splash plates, I thought they were ok, but fter removing them, ones got a fair bit of swiss cheese, the other ones got a slight bend, and the steering box cover (not show ) is very bad, so I have opted to replace with some Genuine Land Rover ones...


These are one set of brake cylinder that I removed, I am going to re sleeve and put into stock...


This pictures shows Front bearing components, brake pipe and set bolts


Here we have, swivel pin lever ( middle of picture ) Retainer for oil seal right hand side of picture, steering drop arm, left, bottom of picture longitudinal steering tube, with one new ball joint, old cut one in the other end still.


Swivel Housing


Looking alittle sad.


The other side all read to put back on

[rednjoey]

Great Pictures thank you.

I'm just about to embark on that same project with my 2A.
Seeing someone else do makes it seem a little less daunting.

Cheers

[juddy]

So far I have really enjoyed taking it apart, there's been some bad days but overall very good.

You have to decided from the start, do I keep as or do a major rebuild, you. Can't cut corners.

It takes more time but it will be worth it.

[juddy]

Did a detour today and did alittle more on Mr Workshop...

Sprayed all the wheels, could be better but they will do.



Did x2 jerry can holders (these are located at the rear)


Heres a few pics of the rebuilt swivels pins, stub axle, brakes etc.







These are the new land rover splash guards, they need painting, but they are top quality and fit well.



These are the clutch/brake covers and seals, I only require 1 of each so now have spares.


I have already fitted a set of these ( so these will have to be spares )


Not sure why I got this, still its new old stock genuine so I will give it a clean and fit.. cant hurt

[juddy]

As I will be fitting a radio, I have decided to go with the following wing mount kit. I have had this for over 5 years so its about time I used it, it will have a clansman type wing box.  Now I know clansman was never fitted to a Australian vehicle ( well not in service ) but its close to larkspur I have the kit so its going in, plus I need to talk with something else in the wings thats clansman based....