Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
REMLR Technical => Bodywork & Painting => Topic started by: Phoenix on July 06, 2012, 12:35:45 PM
-
Ok, I have a few bonnets, and a Garage sale this weekend, so I figured out it was time that I decided what I was doing with them all!!!
I want to retain the original series 2 bonnet, but the frame is rotten on the front crossmember. THe skin and the rest is very tidy, the best I have.
Bonnet No.2 is an ex Series 2a ambualnce bonnet. Slghtly different front crossmember, and the different spare tyre mount, but otherwise perfectly fine!
Bonnet No.3 is one I was given and is a series 2 bonnet also, but from a FFW If I recall, with different mounting locations for the bonnet hooks. It's got a few bifs and bangs and extra holes. the frame is mostly good apart from a couple of minor repairs required.
So what do I do?
If I could find somebody who could redo the coachwork riverts then I would have a few more choices for repair etc. I could either take the one off and have it repaired on the original bonnet, or I could take one from the 2a bonnet and put it on the original.
Or do I bite the bullet and jst use the 2a bonnet ??
-
Phoenix, Just replace the frame on the original bonnet, Nothing wrong with using good quality 3/16 pop rivets in place of the original, just depends on how original you want it.
MC
-
I recently did this one, the white paint is etch the bonnet will be resprayed.
MC
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z284/warthogmc/003-1.jpg)
-
I havnt sprayed it yet, but once done you will hardly notice the normal pop rivets.
MC
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z284/warthogmc/001-1.jpg)
-
just a thought, once done could you not 'fill' the rivet tops with liquid steel to make them look complete?
once painted should be ok?
-
I want to retain the original series 2 bonnet, but the frame is rotten on the front crossmember. THe skin and the rest is very tidy, the best I have.
Richard
Why not de-rivet the Series 2A frame and mate it to the Series 2 bonnet.
I had a similar dilemma recently when reassembling a military case. Do I use pop or solid rivets. I decided on solid rivets for authenticity. I took the case down to Perth's Jandakot airport and had the rivetting done at the Royal Aero Club.
To save even more money, do a cash deal with one of your local airport airframe engineers who would be happy to stay back after work and do the rivetting. If you have everything prepared and 'ready to go', the rivetting can be completed in quick time. The end result is authentic and looks amazing.
-
it'll take him a while to drive to Jandakot!! ::) ;D
-
it'll take him a while to drive to Jandakot!! ::) ;D
Not if he flies Digger ;D
Edit done :P
-
I never did get past my first lesson for my pilots lesson. Being airsick during the lesson made it uncomfortable!!!
MMm, I'm not 10km from the airport, so there may be a source there. It looks so easy when you see what others have done. THankyou for your thoughts gents. one bonnet will certainly be surplus to requirements now!!
Time for some phonecalls this week ;)
-
Just buy these from the UK and do it yourself, cheers Dennis
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-2-2a-3-Solid-Aluminium-Rivet-kit-3-16-snap-punch-tool-/221049829625?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337798b8f9#ht_1492wt_905
-
That looks great! Um, how do you put them in ?
-
We have a source of the rivets here in Qld, Harry has used them and will notify me of the contact details in due course ;)
Edit:
Total Fasteners Ph 0738683100, Fax 0738683366- A Division of Blackwoods & Son Pty limited. (there should be Blackwoods in Tassie)
Part Number 0226607: SOLID RIVETS ALUM MUSH HD 3/16X5/8
Make the tool out of heavy solid steel, you will 2 halves one on top and bottom, and drill a hole in the heavy bit of steel to match the mushroom shape. Also the rivet may need to be cut down depending on the thickness of the layers, the diameter of the rivet is the length required poking of finished hole, if that makes any sense ;)
C
-
Most Rivets (solid type) as used on Series 2/2A/3 are round head rivets, mush heads were used mainly on sealing strips (rubber etc) bonnets etc are round heads.
As to Diana's question, just get a cheap air chisel, with all the bits etc, cut off one of them, find someone with a lathe (metal) and have them turn a recess in the modified tool, while your at it, get a support tool made for the round heads, a couple of friends to help hold the job and it's done in no time, I'm certain somewhere back in old remlr I described how to, and showed the homemade tools as well, cheers Dennis ;)
-
Now that you mention it dennis, that is where I recall hearing about the air hammer modification. That sounds like an excellent route to take. Maybe this is not so daunting after all.
So which riverts should I be using on the bonnet, is it the Part Number 0226607: SOLID RIVETS ALUM MUSH HD 3/16X5/8 ??
Some searches on the old REMLR forum found info on riverts and suppliers
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-technical/60136-solid-rivets.html
and answering my own question thanks to harry
try part no. MS20470A-6-6 this a pure aluminium rivet with a universal head [very unlikly to find MS20435 round head which land rover use] well i got that wrong.
3/16 inch diameter[ie 6/32nds] 3/8 in long[ie 6/16ths] the A is for the material 1100 soft.
And the threat with photos of the tools that somebody put on the old forum, can't find dintys yet!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-iia/77005-riveting-tool-2.html
-
I need to do the bonnett on 112-723 as it has been filled with bog to the level of the top of the rivets.
Funny you should say that.
The gunbuggy that's down here has a bonnet exactly the same. :-\
-
I purchased some from the Big Flats Rivet Company in the USA http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/index.html. They were $10 per 100 so I purchased 100 of each length, you can cut them to suit your needs. I also purchased a snap for the air gun which was $30. If you look in their catalogue you will see them listed as land rover rivets. I found them good to deal with. The postage only cost $17
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n637/HotRover/2012-07-10_18-58-24_280.jpg)
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n637/HotRover/2012-07-10_18-59-54_173.jpg)
-
Time to start saving some cash as I would like to get the bonnet sorted out. salves sapce in the garage as well then with 2 less bonnets!!
Ok, so I need the snap for an air hammer and riverts.
Then I put the rivert in, put the back on something very heavy, and use the air hammer on the top (dome side) ? to hit it down onto something heavy deforming the back and holding it in place ?
Just checking I have it all right.
-
Time to start saving some cash as I would like to get the bonnet sorted out. salves sapce in the garage as well then with 2 less bonnets!!
Ok, so I need the snap for an air hammer and riverts.
Then I put the rivert in, put the back on something very heavy, and use the air hammer on the top (dome side) ? to hit it down onto something heavy deforming the back and holding it in place ?
Just checking I have it all right.
Hi Phoenix
You are correct you need rivets and a snap and a air hammer. The air hammer needs to have a variable trigger this means if you press the trigger lightly you will get a gentle hammering action and if you fully depress the trigger you will get the full hammering action. When you rivet you don’t need to belt the b jesus out of the rivet you only need a light hammering action as the rivets are pure aluminium which is very soft. You don’t need heavy dollies you can use pieces of steel 50X50 x16 as a rough dimension . You don’t need great amounts of pressure on the dolly or the air hammer as it is the percussion that does the work hold enough force on the air hammer to hold the rivet in place the dolly behind the rivet and lightly hold it against the end of the rivet, now squeeze the trigger of the air hammer lightly don’t fully depress the trigger as you won’t be able to control what is happening and you will do some damage as you hammer the rivet keep lightly pressing on thr dolly and maintain light pressure on the air hammer
I hope I haven't confused you in the end success come via technique.
Cheers Rod
-
Next Question, best way to remove the riverts? grind off the backs? Chisel ?
-
Place your bonnet on a steady workplace, you don't want to be chasing it around, using a very sharp cold chisel and suitable hammer, use a low angle of approach, take the heads off.
Do not go at it like a bull at a gate, nice and steady, the heads come off very easy, after you have knocked off all the heads, and the few 3/16" pop rivets that are found on the under side of each folded edge, the skin should just lift off. If any rivets still have just a small grip, use a 3/16" pin punch that should knock the debris out of the way, cheers Dennis. :D
-
Next Question, best way to remove the riverts? grind off the backs? Chisel ?
Hi Phoenix
Centre punch in the dome of the rivet and drill into the head wiht a slightly smaller drill and insert the center punch into the hole and givr the punch a wriggle and the head will pop off.
Cheers Rod
-
With the rivets, I ground a drill bit to make the head of rivet fit die then made two dies out of a piece of steel bar. Needs two to operate but is quite effective. Will put up sketch of apparatus if required.
Or can make some for members to have.