Bonnet Restoration Dilema

[Phoenix]

Ok, I have a few bonnets, and a Garage sale this weekend, so I figured out it was time that I decided what I was doing with them all!!!

I want to retain the original series 2 bonnet, but the frame is rotten on the front crossmember.  THe skin and the rest is very tidy, the best I have.

Bonnet No.2 is an ex Series 2a ambualnce bonnet.  Slghtly different front crossmember, and the different spare tyre mount, but otherwise perfectly fine!

Bonnet No.3 is one I was given and is a series 2 bonnet also, but from a FFW If I recall, with different mounting locations for the bonnet hooks.  It's got a few bifs and bangs and extra holes.  the frame is mostly good apart from a couple of minor repairs required.

So what do I do?

If I could find somebody who could redo the coachwork riverts then I would have a few more choices for repair etc.  I could either take the one off and have it repaired on the original bonnet, or I could take one from the 2a bonnet and put it on the original.

Or do I bite the bullet and jst use the 2a bonnet ??

[master chief]

Phoenix, Just replace the frame on the original bonnet, Nothing wrong with using good quality 3/16 pop rivets in place of the original, just depends on how original you want it.

MC

[master chief]

I recently did this one, the white paint is etch the bonnet will be resprayed.

MC

[master chief]

I havnt sprayed it yet, but once done you will hardly notice the normal pop rivets.

MC

[digger]

just a thought, once done could you not 'fill' the rivet tops with liquid steel to make them look complete?

once painted should be ok?

[Tommy]

I want to retain the original series 2 bonnet, but the frame is rotten on the front crossmember.  THe skin and the rest is very tidy, the best I have.

Richard

Why not de-rivet the Series 2A frame and mate it to the Series 2 bonnet.

I had a similar dilemma recently when reassembling a military case. Do I use pop or solid rivets. I decided on solid rivets for authenticity. I took the case down to Perth's Jandakot airport and had the rivetting done at the Royal Aero Club.

To save even more money, do a cash deal with one of your local airport airframe engineers who would be happy to stay back after work and do the rivetting. If you have everything prepared and 'ready to go', the rivetting can be completed in quick time. The end result is authentic and looks amazing.

[digger]

it'll take him a while to drive to Jandakot!!   

[Tommy]

it'll take him a while to drive to Jandakot!!   

Not if he flies Digger

Edit done 

[Phoenix]

I never did get past my first lesson for my pilots lesson.  Being airsick during the lesson made it uncomfortable!!!

MMm, I'm not 10km from the airport, so there may be a source there.  It looks so easy when you see what others have done.  THankyou for your thoughts gents.  one bonnet will certainly be surplus to requirements now!!

Time for some phonecalls this week

[DennisM]

Just buy these from the UK and do it yourself, cheers Dennis
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-2-2a-3-Solid-Aluminium-Rivet-kit-3-16-snap-punch-tool-/221049829625?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337798b8f9#ht_1492wt_905

[Phoenix]

That looks great!  Um, how do you put them in ?

[The ho hars]

We have a source of the rivets here in Qld, Harry has used them and will notify me of the contact details in due course

Edit:

Total Fasteners  Ph 0738683100, Fax 0738683366- A Division of Blackwoods & Son Pty limited. (there should be Blackwoods in Tassie)
 
Part Number 0226607:  SOLID RIVETS ALUM MUSH HD  3/16X5/8

Make the tool out of heavy solid steel, you will 2 halves one on top and bottom, and drill a hole in the heavy bit of steel to match the mushroom shape. Also the rivet may need to be cut down depending on the thickness of the layers, the diameter of the rivet is the length required  poking of finished hole, if that makes any sense


C

[DennisM]

Most Rivets (solid type) as used on Series 2/2A/3 are round head rivets, mush heads were used mainly on sealing strips (rubber etc) bonnets etc are round heads.
As to Diana's question, just get a cheap air chisel, with all the bits etc, cut off one of them, find someone with a lathe (metal) and have them turn a recess in the modified tool, while your at it, get a support tool made for the round heads, a couple of friends to help hold the job and it's done in no time, I'm certain somewhere back in old remlr I described how to, and showed the homemade tools as well, cheers Dennis

[Phoenix]

Now that you mention it dennis, that is where I recall hearing about the air hammer modification.  That sounds like an excellent route to take.  Maybe this is not so daunting after all.

So which riverts should I be using on the bonnet, is it the Part Number 0226607:  SOLID RIVETS ALUM MUSH HD  3/16X5/8 ?? 

Some searches on the old REMLR forum found info on riverts and suppliers

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-technical/60136-solid-rivets.html
and answering my own question thanks to harry

try part no. MS20470A-6-6 this a pure aluminium rivet with a universal head [very unlikly to find MS20435 round head which land rover use] well i got that wrong.
3/16 inch diameter[ie 6/32nds] 3/8 in long[ie 6/16ths] the A is for the material 1100 soft.

And the threat with photos of the tools that somebody put on the old forum, can't find dintys yet!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-iia/77005-riveting-tool-2.html

[d@rk51d3]

I need to do the bonnett on 112-723 as it has been filled with bog to the level of the top of the rivets. 

Funny you should say that.

The gunbuggy that's down here has a bonnet exactly the same.