The axle boxes now had to have oil lubrication holes drilled in them to lube the axles and the horn cheeks when the loco is moving along irregularities
on the track (minor inconsistencies) if no lube they would stick and cause issues
with that now behind me, I could turn my attention to machining the driving wheels, the loco is a 2-8-2 wheel configuration, the leading axle has flanged wheels, the second axle along with the 3rd (main driver) ae flangeless, the 4th axle is flanged, this allowed the loco to negotiate tight curves on mine sites shunting yards etc, so with this info in mind off we went, first up was to rough them out getting rid of the hard cast sand skin
next step was to ream the axle hole so they could be mounted on a mandrel to be finished off
all 8 await their turn on the yet to be made mandrel
It was around this time that after losing Harvey our other cat Mr Freckle
was missing other cat's company we were lucky to get him a friend, her name is Mae, she is just beautiful as well, also a Scottish fold breed
and me wanting a smaller friend for Mae we got another Scottish fold breed called Lucy, she is adorable they all live happily here with our other little dogs, no fuss at all
Back to the tasks LoL next step with the wheels/axles was to cut the keyways, I started with the axles, setting them up in a 5C square ER32 collet chuck, set on center using a wobbler etc then an undersized end mill cut the keyway, after getting it spot on, lift the block rotate 90 degrees n repeat the operation x 4 axles
rotate 90deg
check n recheck, spot on
Next task is to quarter the wheels, this required a jig which I had to make before hand, and a broaching tool which I didn't own, but was lucky enough to borrow one, on the condition if I broke it I owned it and replace it with a new one, luckily that didn't happen, here is my jig for the job
it was a nerve wracking task but was achieved without any drama's the broaching tool after use
wheels looked good with the keyways cut and the crankpin holes drilled reamed etc
The crank pins were made from silver steel, I die cut the threads and milled the flats using a ER32 collet set
the driving pins
the others
all 8 of them
wheels quartered.
the frame is getting heavy now with all the extra's on it, the 3rd axle assembly isn't fitted
as it has to have the 'Eccentric sheaves' turned from Cast iron bar, I sourced a supply in Sydney and they posted it to me, I bought a 200mm length x 65mm dia bar, there were a number of steps taken in the process of machining them
here is a closer shot they could be seen in the previous image, 4 larger ones are 2 forward and 2 reverse, the smaller on is the axle water pump
anyway that's enough for the time being maybe some more tomorrow, cheers