Side lockers RFSV paint failure.

[Ford Blitz]

My RFSV has an issue with one of the storage boxes with the paint flaking off exposing the white powder substance. I have red the post on the subject and understand its a problem with the gal coating and poor prep before painting. Anyway its extensive enough that I think I need to pull the box assemble out and get it sand blasted and repaint it. Are there any tips to its removal that I should know before I start?
Also I thought I would repaint the rear floor of the truck at the same time. Is it the same paint as the rest of the vehicle or something special?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Tom 

[dugite]

Major task to remove lockers, Ford. I completely removed the locker on one side with its associated jerry can dividers and kept the other in place as a security locker.

There is a lot of double sheeting to cope with - I think if I was doing what you're suggesting of I'd try to do it in place if possible.

The floor paint seems to be the same with some additive (sand?) to improve boot grip when it gets wet.

There are a lot of footman loops all over which have the hardest rivets - they did not intend them to come out.

[Ford Blitz]

If I leave it in place are there any tips for neutralising the gal corrosion ?

[Iain]

Tom.  I have the same problem with both storage boxes and the racks attached. I've had a bit of a look at taking them out and started counting the rivets, its a lot. The storage assemblies look to add to the structural strength.   I am worried that sorting them in situ would miss the corrosion between the boxes and body tub. For a long term fix I'm looking at a winter job of taking them out and sorting the tub and storage assemblies. I may regret this but I want this Landy long term.

Iain

[Ford Blitz]

Iain
I am in the same boat. Can you keep me posted on how you go and I will do likewise. Its only in one tool box in mine. Must have been friday when they painted it.
Tom

[Ford Blitz]

I red somewhere on the forum that you use a weak solution of ammonia to neutralize the corrosion but I am at a loss to what product or the dilution rate.
Can anyone help with some info?
Tom

[Iain]

Iain
I am in the same boat. Can you keep me posted on how you go and I will do likewise. Its only in one tool box in mine. Must have been friday when they painted it.
Tom

Will do !

[Mike C]

To slow or stop corrosion between sandwiched metal surfaces, you could use a 50-50 solution of spraying thinners and fish oil compound.

So, my suggestion would be to do the work in place: sand blast, vacuum, then liberally paint the solution along edges and in any places you cannot get a paint coating to. You will find it is as good as WD40 at getting between surfaces, but once the spraying thinners evaporates, leaves a reasonably hard surface that excludes air (so no O2, so prevents/slows further corrosion). Wipe away excess after initial application, from surfaces you can get paint to. Wait a week or so, and then paint what you can get at.

Works really well on door skins, inside doors, and so on. I also used fish oil straight on battery terminals: leaves a tacky surface but slows terminal corrosion markedly. Don't use the 50-50 solution for that application: it will get between the terminal and post, but straight fish oil is much thicker and works well.

Just a suggestion.

Mike 

[Ford Blitz]

Thanks Mike sounds like a good way to start.
I have also discovered that you can treat the exposed areas with white vinegar which apparently neutralizes the corrosion.
Nice little project coming up!
Tom

[navigation]

I use an aggressive Alkaline degreaser to neutralise rust in steel as well as remove the rust stains.
I also use it to clean and to key aluminium.

For a good penetrating rust converter, try XTROL RUST CONQUERER UV.
You can paint straight over the top of it.

[Ford Blitz]

How do you recon it would go with White Rust ie the white powder corrosion of the gal sheeting?
Tom

[navigation]

How do you recon it would go with White Rust ie the white powder corrosion of the gal sheeting?
Tom

Only one way to find out.

I will test it on my own vehicle in the next few days and report back to you here.

[navigation]

Gal sheeting?

[Ford Blitz]

Yes the gal sheeting is essentially what the side lockers are made of ie steel that has been treated before it was painted.
Really be interested in how you go with your test.
Thanks
Tom

[mac101]

Major task to remove lockers, Ford. I completely removed the locker on one side with its associated jerry can dividers and kept the other in place as a security locker.

There is a lot of double sheeting to cope with - I think if I was doing what you're suggesting of I'd try to do it in place if possible.

The floor paint seems to be the same with some additive (sand?) to improve boot grip when it gets wet.

There are a lot of footman loops all over which have the hardest rivets - they did not intend them to come out.

Hey Dugite,

The lockers and associated equipment racks in my RFSV are in rough shape.  I can't image trying to treat the corrosion in place.  I counted over 200 rivets. 

Did you grind rivets and punch them out or did you drill them out?

Were the rivets all the same size?  What was that size?  Looks like 1/8, 3/16, and 5/32 are common sizes.

Thank you,
Mac