Transfer case oil seal 6x6

[Garry]

So I had a wee drip of oil coming through the handbrake drum out into the open. How hard is this leak to fix? I was wondering why my handbrake was not working on a slope too.

Garry

[BEARMAN]

Not hard at all mate. Drain the oil out of the transfer case, take the propshaft off and then with the handbrake on undo the nut in the middle of the drive flange. Then release the handbrake and take the drum off, you might have to slacken the linings a bit first. Then take the flange off and you will see the leaking seal. There is an oil catcher and a mud shield that you will have to remove first and then the seal can come out.  There is a new double lipped seal that you can replace it with instead of the standard one if you wish. When you replace the seal make sure you seal under the oil catcher so that any oil leaks in future come out the handbrake backing plate and don't get on the linings. Also run a good bead of sealer under the washer and nut on the flange when you replace them. Don't forget to check the breather first - there is a slim chance that it could be blocked and causing the leak.

[fc101]

And works for 6 months before it starts leaking again 

[dugite]

And works for 6 months before it starts leaking again 

try these  http://www.skf.com/au/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html

[fc101]

Speedi Sleeves only work if there is a groove in the shaft - even with no groove, new seals, and an extra bit of sealant the leaks always come back after a time.

[Garry]

Thanks for all the replies. Bought 2 seals this afternoon so hopefully all fixed tomorrow.

Garry

[Chazza]

Speedi Sleeves only work if there is a groove in the shaft - even with no groove, new seals, and an extra bit of sealant the leaks always come back after a time.

Not sure what is going wrong with your seals Garry

You probably have done this anyway but in case you missed out a step;

* Grooves in which a fingernail can be caught, must be filled with a filler and sanded smooth.
* Loctite, or similar, must be used between the speedi-sleeve and the shaft.
* Before installing the sleeve it is a good idea to stone the sharp edge off the speedi-sleeve to stop it damaging the lip on the seal.
* If the sleeve is already on, wrap a piece of copper, or aluminium foil around the sharp edge and slide the seal onto the shaft - use oil or grease.
* On the outside of the seal, it is usually wise to smear a film of Loctite 515 on the rubber; this takes care of any imperfections in the housing, which might allow oil to escape.

I haven't had any issues with leaking seals, except for cheap and nasty Indian ones from the mob in Melbourne, which failed sitting still in a shed on the steering relay. Buy good quality ones – the trick is to know which brands are good quality!

If the seals still leak, suspect worn bearings which are allowing the shaft to move radially, or possibly excessive amounts of dirt and grit wearing the lip down; double-lip seals usually take care of this problem but cleanliness is the best thing,

Cheers Charlie

Cheers Charlie

[fc101]

Hi Charlie - yes I have resealed my rear out put a few times and it always works at the start but sooner or later comes back.

My point about the speedie sleeve is that it is not relevant in my case - the shaft does not have a groove in it that needs sleeving.

Garry

[tona]

    Just a thought ,maybe the temp created by the shafts are up a bit and causing premature seal failure?TONA.

[dugite]

And works for 6 months before it starts leaking again 

try these  http://www.skf.com/au/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html

Hi, with respect,  I think you my have misunderstood my post

The point of my suggestion to use a sleeve is to provide the seal lip a smoother & harder surface to bear on. The use of a speedisleeve does not require that the shaft be damaged.

Sort of like using threaded inserts in alloy before they are needed (eg. like RR does).

I have posted this so that readers who may seek info in future can be aware of this option

[PeteFox]

Both front drive and rear drive seals in my 6x6 Perentie leak they have been replaced many times.

The flanges  the seals run on are new and the seals have been recently replaced but still after a few thousand clicks it leaks again.
I’m going to do the job again hopefully for the last time with new seals and speedi-sleeves this time because the sleeves will slightly increase the shaft diameter and put more pressure on the seal running surface.
Pete

[BEARMAN]

Both front drive and rear drive seals in my 6x6 Perentie leak they have been replaced many times.

The flanges  the seals run on are new and the seals have been recently replaced but still after a few thousand clicks it leaks again.
I’m going to do the job again hopefully for the last time with new seals and speedi-sleeves this time because the sleeves will slightly increase the shaft diameter and put more pressure on the seal running surface.
Pete

Are you using the double lipped one Pete?

[Garry]

On the temperature thing. I had just driven back from Canberra to Brisbane. So how been running a while so could have been temperature related or vibration as had taken the body off the back before driving there. It was not a pleasant drive even trying multiple tyre pressures.

What is the part number for this speedy sleeve?

Garry

[fc101]

A speedie sleeve is not a landrover part.  It is an aftermarket system for repairing a damaged shaft - often wear from a oil seal will wear a groove into the shaft where the oil seal contacts causing an oil leak.

Dugite's post right at the top has a link to the product which can be purchased at any industrial supply business - where you buy bearings and seals. You will need to measure the diameter of the shaft and get a sleeve to fit.

As mentioned if there is a groove in the shaft it should be filled as described before the putting in the sleeve.

Garry

[Garry]

Thanks Garry.

Will now be doing the repair when I get back from work so will of course check it before putting the seal back in