DetV's Shed

[DetV]

Introduction to Spence [51-490 FFR]
Spence - Episode 1

We picked up 51-490 FFR from Minto on Monday and after a quick once over, including check of vital fluids and brief inspection of all the things which went round and round, and the bolts which hold them together, I drove her home. The preceding Friday I visited the local RMS office and secured an unregistered vehicle permit to bring her home, plus drive her in the local ANZAC parade.

I wanted a name for 51-490. My wife considered this Land Rover an unnecessary expense - so for now we will call her Spence. After a few drives, Hemmi changed her mind and suggested that "The Brute" was more appropriate.

Spence The Brute came with a Christmas Tree sticker on her fenders: 6009 - 1st Intelligence Battalion, but no service book. So not yet sure where she has been, but we do know who last owned her and can make some guesses about what she was up to. She had 14423km and 619hrs since her last refurb. This is an average of 23kph, so I guess she negotiated some slow terrain, plus drove the 28v generator a fair bit whilst stationary.

[DetV]

On Tuesday I set about a more detailed inspection. I was pleasantly surprised to find:
- all the fluids clear and up to optimum level;
- new looking oil and fuel filters;
- clean air filter;
- no water in fuel filter near fuel tank; and
- main battery dated 03-17 and at optimum electrolyte levels.
I took her to visit a friendly neighbour who had done his electronics apprenticeship at Balcolme with RAEME apprentices. He suggested that 51-470 was probably fully services not long before her assignment to AFM for disposal.

I was also pleased to find a half stocked tool kit, hydraulic jack, red gum jacking block, wheel brace, drag chain and Hella reflector triangle set in the tool boxes.

A major disappointment, however, was to discover the two batteries in the auxiliary compartment on the drivers side at 2.7v and 5.6v and no batteries in the passenger side axillary compartment and with the cables dangling and terminals exposed. I went for an FFR specifically to get the 24v electric system to run my amateur radio gear and beer cooler. This was now at risk.

I took the batteries out and attached them each to a charger. Initially they both accepted only milli amps, however, after a few hours they were accepting 4 to 5 amp - there might be hope for them.

[DetV]

24v System
The batteries charged up to a reasonable amount. Static voltages were 12.08v and 12.32v. So I installed them in the driver side compartment and connected them to the distribution box. After opening the circuit breaker on the dist box, the interior light could be switched on/off red/white, and the voltmeter read approx 24v. 

Then it was time to test the generator, so started the engine and gave it a bit of throttle. To my delight the amp meter register between 15-20Amp and the voltmeter on the dist box was reading approx 28v. So pleased that the 28v generator was working.

I intend to use the 24v system to run the Waeco fridge, and a 240v 4kVA inverter. I also want to use it for my UHF CB and amateur radio gear. The latter runs on 13.8v, so I have sourced a  24v->12v 40A and a 24v->13.8v 20A inverters.  The smaller of the two is fully sealed and will be permanently mounted on the back of the 24v dist box. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24V-to-12V-13-8V-1-5A-5A-10A-15A-20A-30A-40A-DC-DC-Converter/32849244643.html

I would like some Cannon connectors for the 24v leads, however, they are a bit too pricey for me, and one of the 24v Cannon sockets has been cooked so needs to be replaced. I have decided to replace two of the Cannon sockets with these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Military-Metal-Male-3-Pins-Circular-Connector-Y2M-3TK/301751799267

[STDDIVER]

Hi DetV  Welcome to REMLR - It seems you are getting on top of things with the right attitude.  I look forwards to reading your post as it progresses -   Good luck with "Spense" mate

STDDIVER

[dugite]

Yes, welcome to the forum DetV.

As a matter of interest, from the 24v FFR system we run 2 Engels (they really work better on 24v than 12v), and a LED camping light. The LED camping lights work on both 12v and 24v without any add-ons.

As far as connectors go - and yes, cannon connectors would be good, but I just used merits and engels plumbed into the 24v.

I assume your red/white internal light is still on the 24v system as well.

I look forward to see how you go

[DetV]

At this stage, the 24v red/white light is still in place. This may be replaced with a string of LEDs in the future - depends on how often my head collides with it.  {Edit} I am keeping the red/white interior light but have relocated it to the side.

24v Dist Box Mod
This morning I cleaned up the 24v battery hold-down clamps, wire brushed the rust down and gave them a coat paint. While they are drying I decided to work on the 24v distribution box.

Started by unbolting the dist box from the bulkhead and then removing the backing plate. I used one of the mounting holes for the 24v->13.8v 20A converter and added a 5mm aluminium nutcert for the second securing bolt. It ends up just below the edge of the dist box, so does not interfere with the assembly. After installing an XT60 connector to the 13.8v output, connected the 24v input to the +ve output bus and common -ve bus. Whilst it was open I added a 4mm cable to the same bus connectors and ran it down the top channel of the passenger side bulkhead to the rear of the tub. This is where a 24v socket will go for the fridge.

While I was fiddling with cables in the dist box, the one of the big red cables fell out of the top of the 100A circuit breaker. Without this fortunate event I would not have noticed that the top grub screw was loose. After removing the circuit breaker I re-secured the cables tightening the grub screw, and while at it, checked that all the terminals were secure.

Now it was ready to put it back together. However, the face plate would not sit flush - something was in the way. The two pairs of 4mm cable which I added and the cable tie which I used to support them were between the back and circuit breaker. After a bit of judicious wire juggling I had created enough space for it to fit together again.
 

[DetV]

Yesterday Spence visited the Roads & Maritime office and got her shiny new yellow plates. No hassle with an NSW blue slip supplied by FMA. Since I have at least another 3 years before she is eligible for Histeric registration, lucky I'm a pensioner.

[DetV]

Now that the 24v system is all up and running and the 13.8v inverter installed, its time to get some radio coms installed. We are off on a trip through the Brindies tomorrow, with a small group of AMEC members, to familiarise ourselves with this new piece of kit off-road, so it would be nice to at least have UHF CB operative. So I installed a cheap little Chinese transceiver programmed for 80ch UHF. Since the power came from behind, the Styer rack was a convenient location to mount the radio - also keeps the speaker close to the driver's ear.

Next was the issue of antennas and mounts. For ease of installation I chose the driver side aerial mount. Cut and drilled a piece of 6mm aluminium and mounted a spring with SO259 connector on the top. I could not find a 477MHz antenna in my collection, but after trialing several dual band antennas, which I had lying around, found one which was OK on 477MHz and left it in place.  Now at least I can chat with the rest of the convoy. Later I will look at installing a mount for an HF antenna and tuner.

[DetV]

Took Spence out on her first off-road trip today - a pleasant Sunday drive with a handful of AMEC friends through the Brindies. Mount Corree for morning tea and a magnificent view across the top of the clouds 360 degrees around, playing with Low and High ratio as well as the centre diff lock. Then to McIntyres for lunch and back home down Doctors Flat and Sawyers Gully.

Appart from a 2cm sidewall tear in the drivers side front tyre, all worked as well as could be expected.

As we approached home, down came the rain. A great opportunity to check the state of the canvas and associated seals. After 15 minutes of heavy rain, water was dripping in at a great rate of knots over the passenger door. After another few minutes, the roof over the cabin was saturated. Looks like we need to look into proofing the canvas.

[DetV]

Wednesday turned out to be a reasonably productive day. It started with a trip to BFC to pick up 5L of Aqua Proof and a drop-in to Bunnings for a Cyclone 4WD spade and some matching epoxy paint for the axe head and mattock. Then on return the work started:
1. Wash down the canvas with 100ml of chlorine bleach in 4 litres of water, and rinse off after 15 min;
2. Application of copper sulfate (2 table spoons in 3 litres of water), and dry - lucky it was a sunny day with a fair breeze;
3. Application of Aqua Proof. I ended up consuming about 2.5l for complete coverage.
then tested the result in Thursday's rain. Yahoo - no saturated canvas.

The photo belows shows the off-side half still wet with Aqua Proof. The roof is already half dry. When fully dry the already seriously faded canvas assumes just a little more colour, and now water pearls on its surface.

[STDDIVER]

Great thread DetV - enjoy the post!

STDDIVER

[DetV]

Time to play with the 24v distribution box again.  Since Engel and Waeco fridges power cords are are terminated with Merit connectors (convertible cigarette lighter), I have decided to use Merit connectors for general purpose 24v devices and I will distribute a few in strategic locations around the vehicle. My Merit sockets arrived on Monday, so Tuesday I installed my first - replacing the 2Amp Cannon connector on the 24v distribution box.

The Merit socket fits in the low current socket hole without modification. I also upgraded the wiring slightly and will use a 7.5A fuse.

[DetV]

The top right side 24v Cannon socket had previously been overheated, so I replaced it with a 2 pin 25Amp aviation circular desk connector. Unfortunately I only had a male socket (easily shorted if open) so the plan is to leave the plug installed with a short fly lead and a blue XT60 plug on the end, using blue ones for 24v circuits.

I plan to replace another of the 24V Cannon sockets with a Y36M-4TK female socket (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331623585983) and another with a dual port USB 5v socket (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5V-4-2A-Dual-2USB-Charger-Socket-Adapter-Power-Outlet-for-12V-24V-Car-Motorcycle/222822264219?)

[kman]

Just as a matter of interest, The Zastone D9000 VHF/UHF Mobile transceiver works out of the box on 12 or 24 Volts. It is the only such radio I have ever come across.

Howard

[DetV]

Thanks for the advice kman. The Zastone D9000 looks like an excellent option for a dual bander. I also like the LF & HF receive capability so I could listen to ABC RN while on the road. Now to work out where to mount the control head. 

Attended the GARC on Wednesday and took a 70cm/2m antenna on a mag mount sitting on the axe tool mount. VK2PET used my FT90R like a handset while he worked some fellow GARC members testing coverage along the Hume Hwy between Goulburn and Yass. We were travelling at highway speed. I'll definitely need a headset to overcome the noise in this Perentie.