another West Australian ACCO 6x6 F1 GS

[Ravvin]

Hi. Not sure if this is any use to you.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/al3mrkrica5693r/MK3%20Electrical.pdf?dl=0

Its the clearest copy of the MK3 wiring diagram I have found. Pretty much the same as the F1 layout, all the wiring numbers seem to match with what's in my truck.

Greg.

[STDDIVER]

Thanks Greg - very clear!

Frank

 

[johnp]

Thanks greg,yeah that will help make some sense of it all,cheers   john

[johnp]

Home at last!
I went up and fitted new plugs and leads,changed some tyres and got some lights working,drained old fuel and she ran a hell of a lot better.
Doing some other stuff with our lic recovery truck (clapped out ex army Ford Cargo) the gearbox selector fork or something along those lines broke,resulting in us having to leave it at Merriden army museum yard and taking a big chance we got a 48 hr temporary movement permit and finally left for home at around 7.00 pm.
pitch black ,we set off not knowing whether we would even get outside the town limits,but 3 hrs later,$200 of fuel and some oil later we rocked up home with it hardly missing a beat,although oil was EVERYWHERE from a rocker cover gasket that might as well not have been there(mind you it may not be there as havent had a look yet!)everything except speedo worked and even with ear plugs we arrived half deaf due to muffler basically disintegrating on the way.
We had planned on using the Cargo to pull it off the road if it had broken down but that idea went out the window when its gearbox carked it out the front of the museum.
My son and i still had a grin from ear to ear on the way home as it had unexpectedly become an adventure that very well could have gone south but eventually worked out.
Next weekend will involve taking a box out of a D series that looks to be the same and replacing the Cargo box then bringing that back home.
Cheers   John         PS pics up when my son up home here next weekend

[Chazza]

Well done cobber!

[Ravvin]

Great work!

Those rocker cover gaskets are still available from the Iveco dealers.
Part number is 164421R1 - Gasket, Cylinder Head Cover.

If that gasket is gone, you will probably find the side cover gasket has hardened and is leaking too. Same deal, still available.
Part number 69735R1 - Gasket, Lift Rod Cover.

When I fitted my new gaskets, I uses a Permatex Hardening Gasket Sealant on the side facing the tappet cover and lift rod cover, and a non-setting type on the side touching the block. This means the covers can be removed without destroying the gaskets. Also, if you ever need to replace a gasket again, it is easier to take the cover off and take it to a workbench to scrape/clean off the old one than it is to try cleaning it off the block.

If you use a non-hardening type on both sides, you will find that the cork gasket shrinks and pulls in under the edge of the cover, letting oil leak out. This is probably what happened to your current gasket.

Greg.

[johnp]

Thanks Chazza,Greg, i de-oiled everything yesterday now just have to get down to the serious task of actually scraping off the decades worth of accumulated crud that wont shift just by pressure cleaner alone.Greg let me know if that PM reply went thru that i sent you,i have been known to stuff up with this technology thing!
John

[johnp]

Whilst grovelling around underneath scraping crap off g/box,diff housing etc this arvo i eventually found chassis  no on bare bit of rusty chassis and it is the same as on census/data plate so at least i know it didnt cop some other trucks chassis during a rebuild that it may have had whilst still in service,there are plenty of those rather crudely stuck on service plates around the vehicle.
Engine number check is next now that i can actually see there is an engine under all that built up crud.
John

[Ravvin]

I had that same thick buildup of dirt, grease and oil on the transfer case in the MK3.
What worked for me was to fill a squirter bottle with straight diesel and spray it all over. I left it sit for a day and hit it with the pressure washer. Almost everything came off with no fuss at all. The only bits left were small patches just under where the input/output shafts were. I figured it was from the heavier leakage in those areas.

When I did the engine sump, I did the same but it didn't quite work out the same. Turns out that at some point, some lazy bugger had put another coat of paint on, straight over all the caked on dirt and grime. It must have been good paint as I had to scrape through it with a putty knife before the diesel and degreaser could do their job.
The main downside is that you are spraying diesel around. I'm out in a paddock and tend to kill patches of grass, but that's just a bonus for me. Less to mow. Not the sort of thing you want to clean off your shed floor or nice lawn. Then again, the old felt and rawhide seals all through these trucks seem to leak oil as part of their rust prevention system, so you might want to get a couple of full sheets on zincalume folded up into low sided catch trays to sit under the worst spots.

Another option is a good steam cleaner, which might work for you as you can drive yours around. The guys next door to me at work had a big but still portable diesel engined steam cleaner. They sold it and the business to someone in another town just when I got my 6x6.

I keep an eye on the For Sale section in the paper and also Gumtree for a steam cleaner, but not many change hands down here.

Greg.

[johnp]

Right, everything completely degreased,new rocker cover gasket,new oil filter and seal,new oil, adjusted tappets ,i can hit the button and she starts and runs nice now but will have to get on to muffler next as it is loud/noisy,
Will sort out stuck transfer lever and all the little air valves etc in cab area after that,the winch must work as it has creeped up a bit of the slack in cable after me pushing and pulling things as i scraped off all the poop around  t/fer/winch etc but i will investigate that properly later.
Has not been fun trying to work between rain showers etc after work but every little bit helps.
I have just worked out what the flat bar frame thing was lying in the tray from someones post on requesting pics etc for rear steps and see it is the f1 rear setup ,its good to see pics sometimes of other peoples stuff if only to recognise something that you  dont know what it is  or are missing.
This truck has square tailights but i think originals were round so will have to find something that looks more period correct in my travels.
My photo putter upperer should be up tonight or sat' so will post up pics when i can,g/box out of D series and hopefully sun' we will fit to and retrieve the cargo.
john

[johnp]

Winch works! or did maybe,drove truck around paddock before reversing it in to shed but heard a creaking noise then a loud bang,seem to have inadvertently engaged winch and it pulled the slack in cable up and broke all bar two strands before i put foot on clutch,i hope it hasnt broken the shear pin and there is still a heap of tension on cable i dont know how to release before i can try winch again. So much for finding out the ignition cut out doesnt work!
May have to stand back and cut cable with oxy or something ,it broke near front fairlead rollers.
Was going to tie rope off and try and slowly back away in rev before i did this as cable is pretty dry and stiff,but there was enough slack to move it around a foot or so. Learning curves can be pretty sharp with unfamiliar machines 

[johnp]

We replaced Cargo G/box where it broke down was really easy box to change,and bought the teaspoon tipper home that was still sitting on the back so all functional again

[Ravvin]

Oops.
Looks like the auto brake is holding tension, or you may have pulled the cable down through some layers on the drum, pinching it.
Just put the transfer case in neutral and the gearbox in reverse and slowly let the clutch up. That will wind it out under power.
Don't run too much out and keep it slow, as you may be working against the brake band, and you don't want to wear it out. I'd suggest you have someone at the front to pull the slack out as you run the winch so you don't just loosen up the top layer on the drum.
You probably know this, but if you pick a spot along the cable before where it starts to fray, and warp it in fine wire, you can cut it with a grinder and not get little springy bits that cut you. The eyelet on the end opens up when you remove the 2 bolts and you can then re-wrap the cable around it. Should be all good.

Greg.

[johnp]

Thanks Greg ,will try to release it tomorrow ,i havnt really looked up the correct use of winch properly yet but will have to do it sooner than later now i think