Author Topic: Perentie Battery Switch on the Starter Mtr Cable  (Read 1500 times)

Offline Carzee

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 3379
  • THANKS 156
  • Perentie FFR 50-257
    • Perentie Wiki
  • Location: Canberra
  • REMLR No: 007
Perentie Battery Switch on the Starter Mtr Cable
« on: January 10, 2017, 03:20:17 PM »
***************
BATTERY SWITCH for 4x4 Perentie
***************

50-169 has now been given the battery switch treatment.

Step by step. DIY.
First off I removed the F88 butt holder in the middle of the seats. I removed the leftside seat cushion and seatbox lid being careful not to arc out the positive battery terminal. I disconnected the battery negative aka 'earth' post clamp (black cable) and the battery positive clamp (red cable). I use a 14mm open end spanner that is covered with gaff tape for the most part to minimise metal contact if I drop it accidentally anywhere near a positive terminal and chassis neg (bodywork or seatframes).

Here we go:

1. Cable cut and swaged with an eye: $30... I got under the middle of the Landy and removed the long red cable from the underseat battery +pos to the starter solenoid in the engine bay. It was removed through the large old grommet in the front corner flooring of the battery box. It was the mankiest dead grommet ever and went straight to the bin. I looked over the long red cable -all good- no chassis chafing on the red insulate, but the battery post clamp was mostly powder. The battery had been working with about 5mm out of a 12mm terminal. I took it to an Auto elec and had the dead clamp removed. A terminal eye was swaged on that end. Some dead cable near the old clamp had to go as well. The 3/8th eye is to suit one of the copper posts at the rear of the new battery switch.

2. Battery switch: $30... the switch used this time is one of the better versions (more $$) of the ones with the red keys. Avoid the super cheapies on feebay. We had a good red key switch on our Series 2A Landy for about 10 years on the firewall in the '90s, no problems.

I mounted the switch in the center of the seat box just adjacent to the gearstick, on the vertical metalwork. The posts are about a 3/8th size. The nuts to hold the eyes on are 17mm but mustn't be overtightened on the posts because they are a copper or brass thread after all. This is also true at the solenoid end of the long red cable - TAKE CARE you do not strip the thread of the soft metal post on the solenoid/starter motor assembly. (( I recently purchased a spare starter motor from the AFM auction and the only fault was that this thread was ruined by someone doing it up too tight and rounding the thread.))

After test operating the battery switch in situ to see which way up or down I wanted the key to rest, the round black plastic mounting or body of the battery switch was filed down flat on one edge to fit snug inside the seatbox, in the corner of the metalwork, i.e., the bend from horizontal to vertical. A suitable size hole was marked and checked then drilled to fit the center body of the switch (the part you insert the key into), and also the two fixing holes for the little bolts.

3. GP 3/4 ID Automotive Hose: $28... looks and flexes like pink coloured heater hose. This was needed before I fitted the long red cable to a post on the back of the battery switch. I brought the 2m of 3/4 ID general purpose automotive hose, cut it to the length of the long red cable and fed the hose protected red cable along the lefthand side chassis rail then over the gearbox to meet one of the posts at the back of the battery switch. I put the eye on one post and did up the nut without overtightening and gave it a spray of PCB lacquer. Post number 1 done.

4. Short red battery cable number one, 3/8th eyes at each end: $20 (est. I already had a spare short red battery cable)... and

5. Feed Through "2204" Blue Sea Insulated Bolt: $36... http://www.autoelec.com.au/blue-sea-2204-feed-through-body-bulkhead-battery-t
((These things are gold yet the young boaty staff at local BCF and RoadTechMarine do not have a clue what they are. They're not even in their catalogue. Too old fashioned. They are used by expensive sport fishing cruisers etc with bulkheads and onboard engines)).

This item has a terminal post available each end and is mounted on the vertical wall of the seatbox nearest the transmission. Go under the Landy again and get busy in the cavity under the middle of the seatbox bodywork. A short red cable matching the size and colour of the long red cable, with terminal 3/8th eyes swaged both ends, is bolted onto the battery switch post number 2 at one end, and bolted onto the red "2204" at the other end. Both posts are then lacquered.

5. Short red battery cable number two, 3/8th eyes at one end for the 2204 post and a battery terminal clamp at the other end: $30 (est. I already had a spare short red battery cable)... so now we have a positive post inside the seatbox adjacent to where the battery positive post is waiting for another short joiner cable (again matched cable type and colour). The short cable is securely clamped at one end to the positive battery terminal and bolted at the other end to the "2204" post. Then rattle can pcb lacquered as above.

Done. Total cost roughly $180. Thats about two tanks of diesel or one 12v battery. Or one tilt-tray callout fee on a Sunday at Rainbow Beach.

The Landy is now safer than original issue because we have securely insulated that very high ampage starter motor cable, instead of using some dodgy 25 year old grommet wrapped in half a roll of black 'leco tape, sitting in filth down the bottom of the battery box under 5 years of talcum powder from the battery terminals.
« Last Edit: January 10, 2017, 03:24:30 PM by Carzee »