Fitting a turbo to a standard motor or fit a 6x6 turbo motor

[Carzee]

I also had a KLR Turbo fitted about a fortnight ago, and its a very nice upgrade after owning the FFR for 2 years now.

Something not discussed in the thread so far is the required 2.5in exhaust costs, and how the 3inch air induction pipe via the snorkel can be a factor.

There is also the fact that the Insurance policy, if its a Comprehensive policy, will need an update.

The turbo option is part of a overall "whole of vehicle" upgrade in my opinion. Safety first.

Having a set of rear disc brakes = good idea.
Having new (or at least checked out) panhard rod bushes = good idea.
Having a new (or at least checked out) shocks and springs = good idea.

Having a HD clutch and pressure plate = good idea.
... And having a Turbo (double power, revs drop, better economy) = great idea.

Regarding the clutch:

KLR have done a lot of 4BD1 turbo upgrades now. They have done the stats and theirs is the single most informed opinion anywhere after three years' turbo work on Perenties --- KLR warn customers that some clutches will be ok with the extra torque and that others will begin slipping... and the ones that slip will need a clutch upgrade. "Its a 50/50 chance" were the exact words I recall and it may take 5000km or more to find out if the clutch is to become a factor.

I was in the position where the rear discs brakes had been fitted and suspension upgraded... and then the clutch pressure plate began slipping. This was before having a turbo. It slipped due to it being worn, so I had to have a new clutch PP etc -- but I upgraded it to HD parts from KLR knowing I was going to fit the KLR Turbo soon as I could anyway. KLR were very helpful.

See this thread on the turbo/clutch upgrade issue: http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=4672.0


Also: "while you have the bonnet up"....

You may as well do the master cylinder and slave rebuilds, do a radiator flush and thermostat check, replace the fuel filters, oil and air filters and throw some grease around as well. I did. (And I didn't even mention the new diff oil and breathers check).

At the end of my upgrade joblist, it seems everything except the swivel hubs, axles and cv joints have seen some attention. And thats A Good Thing, we know all about our truck now. Its great.

[303Gunner]

Something not discussed in the thread so far is the required 2.5in exhaust costs,

Note too that the quoted installation also includes ....... a custom exhaust. It's not just the labour for the bolt-on.

... And having a Turbo (double power, revs drop, better economy) = great idea.

A fallacy regarding engine improvements/engine swaps is you will be in a better rev range or that now with more power, your revs will drop. WRONG! 

The only thing that will change your engine revs at a particular road speed is changes to your gearing, either a 5 speed, transfer ratio, diff ratios, or tyre size. Increases in power (or an alternative engine) will not alter your rpms at a particular speed. If your RFSV was doing 2750rpm at 100Km/h before the turbo, it will still do 2750rpm at 100Km/h with the turbo, or if you've fitted a Big Block Chev, or an 8V92T Detroit. Whatever your power and torque figures, the crankshaft has to turn a certain speed for the tyres to turn a certain speed. The revs to road speed relationship is only governed by gearing, not engine output. Of course, increases in engine torque mean that you CAN hold a higher gear at any rpm (or live with higher diff ratios, etc), but a speed increase or rev reduction won't happen unless you also change your gear ratios.

If your bank balance hasn't suffered too badly, now could be the time to look at a 5 speed conversion, or higher diff ratios, because your new-found torque monster will happily cruise on lower revs that higher gearing will provide.

[Carzee]

  lets just say I'm staying with traffic at 80kmph, in 4th, up a hill with a hairdryer fitted, versus 80kmph up a hill in 3rd gear with normal air.

Thats my rev drop.

[DennisM]

Yes I know mine isn't military 110 with a 5 speed, but it can keep up with the traffic and can mix it with them @ 115 kph as well, and it's N/A engine cheers Dennis

[Carzee]

Hi Dennis, the mil boxes are all 4 speed as far as I know.
Last night my first tank refill was done since filling up after the turbo was fitted.

The math gives me a result of 10.7 litres per 100km 75pc around town.

Thats over a litre improvement on the average 11.7 and better than the previous best ever tank which was from a hume hwy trip.

Perhaps its a little lean? It hasn't had the injectors done yet and it should have a proper tune up or dyno session.

[DennisM]

I knew all the 110's & 6 x 6's that people are  buying have a 4 speed box, mine is a 5 speed and returns atm approx 11.6lt per 100k cheers dennis
ps I forgot to add different gearing in the T/case as well, but mine weighs in @ almost 2700kg,,.

[Dervish]

The math gives me a result of 10.7 litres per 100km 75pc around town.

That's what my wagon has averaged over the last 30,000km; sounds fine.

[Carzee]

Thanks for the reassurance about the settings.
I just had a quick trip to Mum's for Christmas. Drove about 900km return and the highway average was 10.3 litres per 100km or 27.4 mpg! Thats on the std michelin XZL wheels/rubber at about 300kpa/40psi. It eats hills like Mt White and Mooney Mooney. It does have a miss in the engine when cruising at the 110kmph limit.
New injector nozzles and tune up is next on the job list.