Author Topic: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck  (Read 79598 times)

Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #345 on: September 13, 2020, 06:39:01 PM »
Actually, I got sidetracked.
I was going to post up what I did today inside the little shed, but got distracted explaining why I had done it up.

I have one of those basic sandblasting cabinets that seem like a good idea at first, but soon turn out to be really frustrating.



Its a bit like this one. There is a weak little light inside, but you'd be better off with a candle. Totally useless. Most of what you do in there is by feel.
There is a wire rack in the bottom, to keep your parts out of the garnet. Throw that out, its a waste of space. You need to constantly push the sand down to the pick-up in the bottom, as it doesn't slide by itself unless you half fill the damn cabinet. There is a sheet of thin film inside against the acrylic top. That lasts maybe 5 minutes before everything inside is a blur. They give you 5 spares, but you may as well save them until you actually wear through a sheet. The nozzle inserts are some pink stone/ceramic stuff that the places that sell these cabinets want a fortune for. I found a seller online and bought 10 for less than the local place wanted for 1. I buy local when I can, but not at that price.
There is a little pleated paper filter on the right side of the box, supposedly to let the air out but not the dust. That clogs up in about 10 minutes. Then I noticed that there is a similar hole in the back at the top left, with no filter at all, just a offset plate so you don't squirt garnet straight out the hole. This lets all the nasty fine dust out, where it gets in your eyes, up your nose and even in your ears, so wear a full tyvek suit and a full face respirator. Definitely makes it a good job to do in Winter. I chucked the pleated filter and stuck a 90mm computer fan over the hole, to force air in. This makes it a lot easier to see inside, if you stop blasting for a few seconds, as it pushes all the light powered garnet out the hole at the back. I stuck a 2" plumbing elbow over the hole on the back and run it to my ancient shop vac that gets used for all the messy jobs.
With the vac outside and the blasting cabinet in the little shed, I found that if I closed the door so it was really dark, and laid my LED floodlight on the top of the cabinet, off to the side, I could actually make out vague shadows inside the box, until I started blasting. Huge improvement.



Before and after. These are the trailer brake fittings from the F1. The red paint came of easily. That yellow stuff is really tough. I had to chip and scrape at it with a screwdriver tip, to flake it off in chunks.
Where its on the chain, I'm going to try using the wire wheel on the bench grinder and see if that works, before giving it all another quick touch up in the sand blaster.
I also had a go at one of the pulley sheaves from the rear winch roller guide system, but it was a bit much for the sand-blaster. I need to knock the worst of it off with the grinder and wire cup brush first. Maybe tomorrow.

Greg.

Offline dugite

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #346 on: September 13, 2020, 06:39:23 PM »
You're certainly a worker Greg - I'm glad that you were able to arrange that tent with some lighting

I'm sure that we all enjoy your updates.

Thanks mate!
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Offline Chazza

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #347 on: September 19, 2020, 08:57:54 AM »
Nice to hear of progress Greg.

Years ago I made a sand blaster cabinet a bit like yours and experienced all of the same problems. It went to the tip a few years ago in a clean-out and now I de-rust all of my parts in molasses,

Cheers Charlie
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Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #348 on: January 07, 2021, 05:22:34 PM »
Just a minor update, as I seem to have been doing everything BUT work on the truck lately.

A while back, after I sandblasted, primed and repainted those air fittings, I noticed that I was getting a lot of hydraulic oil dripping from somewhere on the second ram of the Abbey crane. After spraying everything with degreaser and wiping it down I found that it seemed to be weeping through cracks in the hoses. As you can see in the pic I posted below, from the last drama I had with the extending jib hoses, there are 2 that go in through the hole in the boom, to the second ram. I think that's the boom. Not too sure on the correct terminology on cranes.



The 2 hoses are the same length. One goes down to the far end of the ram and the other curls around in a tight loop and goes to the pivot end of the ram body. I wanted to take one hose off so could take it in to get a pair of new ones made up, so I fired up the truck and wiggled the crane around, inside the shed, to where it was positioned as you can see in the pic below. The end of the jib is resting firmly on the ground.



I followed the hose from the bottom of the ram back to the valve box and carefully cracked the line, to release any pressure and caught the oil in my drain pan. I undid the hose and drained it out as well as I could. I couldn't get it back through the hole in the boom as the hoses were cable tied together, so I figured I would undo the far end and then reach up and cut the ties. Standing on the chassis rails in shorts and thongs, I realised I had undone the wrong hose at the valve box when a big fan of hydraulic oil sprayed out all over me, the chassis rails and the wall of the tent. Seems the 2 hoses had crossed over somewhere up in the box body of the boom, before coming out the hole.
Once I re tightened the hose, I went back and undid it from the valve box and finally got it out. In doing so, I dropped one end, which of course fell down and hit the oil drain pan that was sitting on the chassis rail, catching the dripping oil from the ram. This fell down and emptied itself onto the nice clean black plastic sheet I have under the truck, to catch dropped tools and small truck bits. After I got the worst of it soaked up, I cleaned myself up and dropped the hose in to get new ones made. It was only when I got back and walked into the tent that I realised that running the truck in the shed was not a good idea. It reeked from the exhaust. I'd never noticed it earlier. The truck only ran for a few minutes, but it runs rich, needs the tappets adjusted, the timing set and all fluids changed. Working on oily chassis rails in thongs probably wasn't a good idea also.
So, after all that, I decided I needed a way to pipe the exhaust outside. Bunnings sells a 4" aluminium ducting, like a vacuum cleaner hose that stretches out to 6m. It can handle temps up to 150C, so should be fine. I planned to tape it to the muffler outlet with the aluminium tape that the HVAC guys use and run the ducting out under the side of the tent. When I got down there to tape it on, I realised that the old muffler was stuffed.



It's home made. Just a tube with the old ends from a proper muffler welded on. The outlet pipe extends back inside to about midway, but the 2 inlets just open directly into the muffler tube. You can see the patches over the large hole and ding where they hit something. There is another hole eaten through on the back. When it was running, I used to think it was a lot louder than the MK3, but put that down to running the dual carbs and being way out of tune. Guess not.
Previously I had painted up one of my new NOS mufflers that I got from Bushman, using a full can of high temp engine paint. I pulled the muffler off the old MK3 and noticed that the paint had oxidised a bit, so thought I would give it a respray. I scuffed it down with a green scratchy pad and went to wipe it down with wax & grease remover. The old paint just wiped off! Right back to bare shiny metal. I think these mufflers may be tinned on the outside. Its not zinc and there's no sign of rust on this one or the other one stashed away until I need it. The texture on it looks very similar to what I found when I cleaned the paint off the fuel tanks, which are definitely tinned. Anyway, I cleaned the whole thing back to bare metal and gave it a few coats of Rustoleum High temp BBQ paint. Says it will handle up to 1200F, or 93C. Americans.  ::)



Looks pretty good. It's going to stink when I run it next, so I'll wait for a northerly and open the front of the tent. The bracket that supports the end of the muffler was bent way back, probably from when it got the big ding in the front. I had previously made a new hanger for the MK3 as the old one was almost rusted through. Mine is a lot more sturdy, so I will use it. The tubular bash guard that protects the muffler doesn't seem bent, so I'm not sure how the muffler got hit. When I removed it to get to the muffler, only one of the bolts sheared off. There may be just enough to weld a nut onto the end, but if not, I'll heat it up with the oxy and try to drill it and use an easy-out. Not too bad, really, as on the MK3, every single bolt sheared off.
The twin down-pipes are pretty rusty, but they can wait for now. When I was working on the MK3, I found that it's pipes had been replaced recently as they had no rust at all. I cleaned them up and painted them with high-temp paint, and they are still rust free, so I'll use them later when I work on the engine. They need to come off as I have to remove the exhaust manifold to put a new gasket in. I noticed when I first ran it that it leaked from there and found that some of the studs had been screwed half out and left. I tightened them up, which seems to have worked, but the gasket is probably stuffed and I want to replace it.

Plenty to do, just need to find the time, money and willpower to get started.

Thanks for following along on this stumbling trip from problem to problem.  ;D I'll post up more when I get something achieved.

Greg.

Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #349 on: January 08, 2021, 03:11:37 PM »
And another issue.  ;D

I fitted the muffler this morning. I looped a couple of ratchet straps around the muffler and bits on the truck to support it while I struggled with the bolts and those rings that seal the muffler to the pipes. I got it on, with the flanges lined up perfectly and the rings centred, but something is wrong.



As you can see in the first and second pics, its very close to the radiator support plate and the chassis rail. As in under 10mm gap too close. The bracket straps that I made for the other truck appear to be almost 4" too long, yet I compared them to the bracket on the old knackered muffler and the spacing between the holes is exact.

I'm thinking that maybe the previous owner had new down pipes made to suit his aftermarket muffler. I can hang off the end of the muffler and drag it down so that the bracket fits, but that puts a huge strain on the pipes. I could cut the brackets back about 3" and re-drill the holes. This would still put some strain on the pipes, but not as much, and I would have a bit more room between the top of the muffler and the chassis rail. I'm worried that when the engine twists on its mounts with all that awesome IH torque, that the muffler will get crushed into the chassis rail.  ;D
I considered loosening the pipes up where they join the exhaust manifold, but that's a real pain to get at and there's a very good chance the damn bolts will just shear off. If I was going to attempt that, I would need someone here to help from up in the cab, and if bolts started snapping, I think I would just rip the pipes out and use the ones off the MK3, as they aren't anywhere near as rusty and I know they fit this muffler.

I'd like some opinions on what you all think is the best way to go. If possible, could someone with an F1 or F2 with a genuine muffler check their setup and give me some measurements? I'm after the clearance above the rim of the muffler and the radiator support plate, the gap between the muffler and the chassis rail and the distance between the 2 bolt holes on the metal bracket straps that support the muffler. And maybe a measurement between the outer rim of the muffler and the front of the tyre, so I know if it needs to angle forwards or back. The muffler that came off was pushed right back close to the tyre and the bracket was all bent out of shape. On the MK3, the bracket straps dropped straight down from the rubber bushing, so I expect that is it's proper orientation.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Greg.

Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #350 on: Today at 02:16:03 PM »
Well, that was a lot of wasted effort.
I tried loosening the bolts that hold the 2 exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifold, hoping to get some clearance for the muffler. The heads of the bolts had sections of steel rod welded to them to stop them spinning. As soon as they spun around and made contact, they snapped off. The rods that is, not the bolts. On checking, it looks like they were brazed. Luckily, I can get a spanner on some and a socket on the others, so I will definitely change them out with the ones off the MK3.

I put my expanding duct pipe over the muffler outlet and taped it up with the aluminium tape. I ran the other end out under the bottom of the tent shed to outside.
This proved to be a waste of time because as soon as the truck turned over and fired up, it just blew it apart. I tried patching it and angling the ducting so the exhaust blew along it instead of against the side but it made no difference.

Another issue now is the truck wont keep running. Its got fresh fuel, but when it fires up, I can run it up to about 2000 rpm and hold it there, but after a few seconds the revs drop and it coughs and splutters and if I don't pump the accelerator, it cuts out. It also sounds and feels like it is not firing on all cylinders. I've never had it do this before. I feel it is a fuel issue, either the lift pump isn't working properly or there's an issue in the carbies. I gave them both a good tapping, in case the needle and float are sticking, but it's looking like I need to pull them off and clean them out. Both show signs of a long term leak around the top plate, so I will see if I can find a couple of rebuild kits.  I've never worked on carbies before, and watching videos showing people stripping them right down and rebuilding them and being able to tune and adjust them later doesn't really fill me with confidence for this job, where one is fixed and the other more your regular style. I can definitely pull them apart, clean them and put them back together, but the adjustment part is where I will have issues.

Not sure which fuel pump I have. The manual shows 2 types. The "current version" seems to be made by Goss Gasket Manufacturing in Victoria. Seems they are still around and there were lots of hits on a google search for the G594 model number. The rebuild kit is a Goss 199VC, and there are lots of links for these. Seems they are the same as the kits for the Holden red 202 motors. Prices ranging from $69 to $98. I might give Goss a call tomorrow and see what they say, as they list the rebuild kit on their site.
The early pump was made by AC Delco, but there are no google listings for EEP63191A. I'll look up the NSN numbers and see what they say.

I have brand new spark plugs and leads in the MK3, as well as a new distributor cap and rotor, and I know they worked well. I'll swap them over and make sure it still runs the same or better before I touch the carbs.
I also need to do something about the ventilation in the tent shed. Just running it for those few minutes, however roughly, totally stunk the place out to a point I had to leave. There is a large zippered door in one end that I can open and roll up, but I need to see if I can get one for the other end so I can get a good flow through. Its blowing 30km/h from the W-SW now, which would be perfect if I could open both ends.

Oh, the main reason I was going to run it today is I realised that I could pull the main pivot pin on the top of the ram on the Abbey crane and slowly extend the the ram, which would ease the main body of it up out the top of the arm to where I could get at the leaking hydraulic line I need to replace. If I had a truck with an Abbey crane on the back, I could use it to reach over and pull it out.  ;D