Thanks for that. Iveco may have a listing for one of those.
I managed to get some more done today, between the rain showers.
During the week I primed and painted the slave cylinder and handbrake linkage pivots.

They came up looking really good. Now I just need to keep the brake fluid off them.
I made a replacement seal out of a piece of rubber from a blown skidder tube. That stuff is tough, but when it gets staked, it splits open like a balloon.
Before refitting it all, I poured about 3 litres of clean kero into the diff and spun a tire on the intermediate axle to mix things around. After doing that for a while, I realised I could start the truck and run it in first for the same effect, but a lot less effort. Sounds good, but the damn thing wouldn't start. It's pretty cold, but even with the choke on it didn't fire once. After checking for any wires I could have knocked off, I found the glass fuel bowl was empty. Oops. I knew it was low but I didn't want to top it up as I want to pull the tanks off to get them steam cleaned before I repaint the outsides. Oh well, back to spinning the tire by hand.
After a bit, I drained the kero into the clean oil pan and it was now almost orange. There were chunks of what seem to be curdled oil in it. I expect that's from the water contamination. I strained the kero through some paper towel and it came up a lot cleaner, so I put it back in. I did this 4 more times, and by then the kero wasn't getting any dirtier and I wasn't getting any more chunks or rust particles. I have left the pan under it, with the bung out so it can fully drain. Hopefully it is now clean enough.
After that, I bolted the slave cylinder and expander back on and refitted the brake shoes and springs.

The first pic below is one I took ages ago, of the passenger's side rear. That's the one that was dragging the most, and the one where the slave cylinder piston wasn't returning properly.
See anything wrong in that pic?
I only spotted it because I went to replace the brake shoes on the driver's side and couldn't remember which way round they went. I eventually found the pic below in the MK3 Workshop manual, showing the direction of rotation and the position of the adjuster bolts.

As you can see, the bottom brake shoe is around the wrong way. It should have the bare "tongue" on the other end. I'm not sure what effect this would have, but I'll be putting it back on the way it's shown in the manual.
I still have to repaint the back of the hub, so I couldn't refit that yet. I started working on the slave cylinder for the passenger's side next.

The boot is still in good condition, but the whole slave cylinder will need a good clean and repaint. As you can see in the second pic, the piston is stuck and not returning. When pulling it apart for cleaning, I found a build-up of black greasy stuff under the block-off bolt. The bleeder it also one of the original types, with a flat base and a small ball bearing that closes the passage. The bleeder has a very fine hole to let the fluid pass when it's loosened, but this is rusted closed. The one on the driver's side had been replaced with a more modern type, with a tapered base and a large bleed hole, instead of the ball bearing, so I will try to find another like it.
I cleaned up the rusty gunk on the outside of the piston and dribbled some CRC down the side, then tapped it back in to give me room to pull the alloy adapter plate away from the slave cylinder enough to remove the internal circlip that holds the guts in. It turns out that they had a go at this before, and managed to break the end off the circlip. I got what was left out, but it still wouldn't come apart. Once again, I had to put it in the press. It only took a few pumps and it started to slide out.

As you can see, its a real mess. The bore seems ok, with no corrosion, just a ring of stuff from the brake fluid around the base. This cleans off with acetone. I'll clean it all up during the week and repaint it all, ready to go back together next weekend, if I get the time.
The rubber seal is stuffed. I think they put it in wrong last time it was apart. It should go into the recess, and have the spring sit on top. I'll make a new one up and see how it goes.
While I was under there, I got tired of belting my head, so I took the metal mudguard off. I should have done this right at the start, before I even took the wheel off. It gives you a lot more room. It's pretty rusted and has a few dents, so I'll give it a clean up and repaint, then refit it before I put the tire back on.
Greg.