Perentie Long Range Camping Vehicle - LRCV

[Carzee]

Yes thanks for the info. I have a set I stashed in 2014 (via Rod in Toowoomba via local LR Dealer) and the numbers on the bushes checked out as being Tenneco-Monroe OEM, but Made In China now, and still sold as a kit SMP312, a single bush which is in a bag with nut and washers. Hmmm.

I also checked with my B-I-Law who was on a Ford dealer parts desk for over 15 years and he says definitely top rubber bush, rear shockies, XF falcon. (That certainly fits Perentie production period and we know other items such as the Brake Master Cyl is Falcon too).

update-
I went to Rare Spares - a set of four "Falcon upper rear shock bushes" is $7 over the counter. The bush has a central lip which fits the mount hole (22mm) snugly and the bolt hole in the center is correct size... but they are more like door stop size being a smaller diameter and smaller thickness overall (30mm diameter, 14mm thick on the rim/the edge) than the set I had stashed (40mm diameter, 15mm thick on the rim/the edge). So they fit perfectly fine but are smaller diameter and thickness.

[Barefoot dave]

Thanks for the tip, Carzee.
Saves a few people getting ripped off on EBay by unscrupulous monopolists.

[Carzee]

Agreed.
LR Dealer stock check also showed over 100 army hi-lift jacks on the books.
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=1979.0
I asked the price and I got just one. I paid retail not trade. Incl. gst it was $201.40 off the counter.

[Carzee]

Superwinch fitting has been the main activity during Friday, Saturday and Sunday between work. The early problem was clearing the grille panel and I ended up getting two 10mm spacers made using the 6mm spacers as templates. We then tac welded them to the corner bits supplied by KLR and tried it out. No go. The clutch lever sticks out of one end of the winch and it fouled a corner of the front chassis. The space between the north-south chassis bars was only just big enough too. The first idea was to raise the winch about 40mm to clear the clutch lever/chassis corner -it did fit better but still a hassle. Wayne slept on it and nutted out the solution; read the booklet. The end of the winch which has the lever can be unbolted, turned 90deg., and bolted back up. This solved the fouling but still its a close thing at each end. The locally made 10mm spacer bars worked well - the rear of the winch clears the lower 40mm of the grille panel by 0.5mm or some similar measurement needing an electron microscope to be accurate. The supplied 6mm spacer bars will be trimmed down and used as backing plates for the main 4 bolts which are 80mm M12 10.9

Its all tested and ready to go thanks to Wayne without whose skills nothing could have worked. I will paint bolt heads and washers tomorrow after work to get it looking ok and installation should be midweek after sizing up some cables and finding out how to get them up front safely and in a tidy manner (crossing my fingers). The cabling should be the easiest part.

[Carzee]

Maxtrax.
We got a single pair of Maxtrax in the OD colour last winter when there was a special price offer. This week I got the necessary special bolts that hold the Maxtrax on a rack. This is because we tried fitting the Maxtrax at a variety of positions on the outside and the inside of the LRCV.

In the end we decided to stash them outside and above the canopy over the front seats. To do that we'll have a little horseshoe shape steel section made up to continue 500mm forward from the existing rack bars (35x35 SHS). We will get a 2m section and have it bent to fit. Should turn out ok, just a bare section, no mesh, painted, and sitting above the cabin seats. When the Maxtrax are up there they may offer a bit of shade to the canopy too. We'll see.

[Carzee]

Shouldn't bother planning things. One day at a time.
Can't do the winch up - the LRCV is getting a oil leak fixed.

In October the rear stub axle was the center of attention when a rear disc brake kit was fitted. A lefthand side Corteco seal has leaked (which is unusual), and the oil trail goes down the rotor surface. So its all come back off for new seals and to find out what caused the leak. Turned out the seal is being damaged by a spot of corrosion on the stub surface.

While we have it apart again I am having the 60mm studs fitted.

[Carzee]

Update on the current work.

The new stub is on and the 60mm studs are in. I now have plenty of std 45mm spares. The rear diff guard was dropped into the workshop today. While we're using the hoist its a need rather than a want. Its a Terrafirma skidplate, TF853. (incidentally, the front diff guard was purchased used but in new condition from a Disco owner in 2015. Its a Graeme Cooper product).

The front studs meant a "swivels off" job. The swivels are going back on all nice and new looking after a sandblast and repaint.

While inspecting the front end bearings, Forensics Snr Detective Johnny (CSI Fyshwick) uncovered some evidence to a roadside assault and battery. Some temporary repair work had been done on the passenger front end (probably a roadside repair to get back to base) and it had not been followed through (out of sight out of mind). Back a few months when the front diff oil was drained it was a nasty colour and consistency. "Thats not good" to quote Johnny. A new constant velocity joint (von Deutschland), and wheel bearings have been ordered.

After the recond. radiator is in, and a 100A Alternator, this Landy could be "in reasonably good mechanical condition". Except for a injectors service, and HD flanges, axles, diffs, HD turrets, uni-joints... it never ends.

In the meantime, the warmer weather, new wet n dry paper and a fresh can of etch primer on the desk would indicate its time for more painting... but no, I have been busy with 50A Anderson plugs and cabling ideas for the PCB, the Plastic Circuit Board. The PCB will be a 12v electrical accessory board and will be as low vis as possible. It will be hinge mounted and easily removable and accessible I hope. It will house some fuses, the fridge power, the USB power, the retro pins power for the water pump, and some LED lights.

Retro power points (Lucas red and black Insp Lamp or Aux Power Pins) will go in the rear tub near the ROPS at the front and down the back. Has anyone seen how expensive the Lucas retro power points have become?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-2-2a-Dash-Inspection-Lamp-Sockets-Plug-273937-273936-/282267198922?

If you avoid feebay you can save money here. If you search for the Lucas part number not the Land Rover part number, that may help as well. eg:
https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/960-dashboard-socket-and-plugs-equal-pins

I'm not 100pc on the Lucas part numbers. Could be CAB378 and CAB379.

[Carzee]

Took some pics today, mainly to do with the half shaft snafu. The darker one is the correct (new) part. The shiny one with spline damage was installed by who-knows-who and who-knows-when.

Also the rear diff guard went on, with some dremel work on the casing being needed. Also a pic of the front diff guard which has been on over a year now.

Definitely need to paint the axles.

Speaking of paint, yesterday James called in at the Protec paint outlet in the Camden area and brought home my paint order - 8 rattle cans of cam paint for $114.

[Carzee]

  here we are 2 weeks later. Went fast. Still haven't reached 40 here, but it has been warm.

Things done:

Spare shock bushes (1 set) obtained from TD.
Cables and switches purchased. Winch getting closer.
Bonnet lock arrived. Looks ok, fit soon.

Wheel rims sandblasted, heavy zinc coated, painted.

Canopy roof holed and grommets fitted for the 4 ROPS bolts that hold the roof rack.... I searched thru about 7 tubs and footlockers thinking I had the right size grommet kit ----lo and behold I was right (wasted an hour finding it). Tenacity.

After the canopy was back on and trued up, the LRPV roof rack went on.

Then, with a team effort including James and Steven and Kay... (drumroll and ceremonial artillery salute) "Maggie" went from being on top of the trailer to being on top of the Perentie. Excellent.

[Carzee]

This morning we attached a toggle rope each side and tied on the awnings.
Then we went out for a Sunday morning cuppa at local scenic spot. Maggie's first drive: we watched the awnings when doing 100kmph to see if they would flap around much. Didn't move. A little extra drag was felt but no probs.

Wherever you park, other Landy owners appear

[Ivanalandy]

Ok, some updates.

Coffee. I ordered a Aeropress from Sydney. There are demo vids on youtube..

Springs and shocks. I spoke with Brad at KLR and Wayne T. from up the street and got feedback and experience. Wayne went with the KLR recommended Tough Dogs. Setting 5 for a loaded up LRCV on the bitumen & hwy and soft setting 1 for on the CSR and other off road. Brad advised that the rear springs that don't stuff up with lots of load are the LR 110 cab chassis (aka trayback) springs.

Roof rack. Made measurements twice and picked up steel this week. Some pre-lim work is planned tomorrow...

Carzee how are you finding the Tough Dog suspension. I went with Tough Dog too and love it, it's like a totally different car. Doesn't feel like it wants to roll over on every corner

[Carzee]

Well all new shocks make a noticable difference, and these TDs certainly do make it drive like new, but the benefit I'm looking for out of the Tough Dogs is that they keep working well, and keep working, and they don't complain for a long time.

[Philthy]

You have achieved a lot in 10 months Carzee. You must be happy, it's looking great and you have kept to your plan. One day I might be able to park beside yours around Brisbane someday. Are you finished now?

Cheers Phil

[Carzee]

Getting closer to being ready.

Job list redone, from upthread:

Mech:
Front vent seals.
Injector service, tuning. (deleted - KLR persuaded me its not needed).
Fit bonnet lock. (fit soon).
Fuel Cap Lock. (nice to have not a need to have)
Fit new Radiator thats sitting in footlocker. And anti-freeze.
Door Locks adjust.

Elec jobs...
Fridge wiring.
Lucas Insp. Light socket and pins (eg water pump) and assoc. blade fuse box.
Winch wires.
ARB air comp. Hose outlet ctr rear.
Air horn. needs custom fab bracket.
Cabin fan.
Solar reg and battery charger, and fuses
................all the elec work will be low vis or behind the scenes, except solar (next summer?)

[Philthy]

The bonnet security was something that I addressed by installing the "civilian" cable using the standard 110 parts and retaining the leaver as is. Easily done. Cost about $40.oo for parts.