Perentie Long Range Camping Vehicle - LRCV

[Aussie Jeepster]

Check out this idea!
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/fuel-solutions/boab-poly-diesel-tank-50lt.html
The angle of the side of the tank might just be the same as the angle of the panel behind the seats, in which case it would be very functional nestled at the front of the tray. .
Not sure about the filling or connecting, but it's a start.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Here is a pic.

[Dervish]

I like the sound of the helper springs. Do you have the part numbers handy - I think it would be a good investment considering the continual cargo, day in day out, as we go on our way.

Helper springs work well for big loads, but even 130 owners often take them out as they're too stiff. They are fitted to the 3500kg GVM Landys - 130 and 110 HD. Numbers 15-17 below.

[Carzee]

If the helpers make things too rough, a hard ride, what to do? Are the originals enough for a full load or are there stronger springs as a compromise that are ok. I seem to recall a post here about King springs.


*
Meanwhile I ordered a water bladder. The refilling inlet is 25mm, and on the top - so stick a hose over the side of the tub to fill the bladder. For the bladder to breath while filling you'd bring the outlet 13mm hose up above the bladder, perhapps held to the ROPS. I ordered a outlet hose 1200mm long as it will have to get to the outside of the vehicle using either option A or B:
Option A is to put the hose thru the driver or passenger doorway. I could drill out the space between an existing pair of screw holes the army have put (for some reason) in the low point of the angled part of the rear-of-cabinseats-bulkhead. The hose is 13mm so a 18 to 20mm hole with a rubber grommet should be ok, and being behind the driver seat, it won't be very obvious unless the seat is forward: I could coil up the outlet hose and hang it on the bulkhead behind the seat.
Option B is to go to the side of the floor of the tub and have the hose accessible thru the Aux Battery Locker. It would mean the hole and the grommet are almost invisible but the coil of hose would get dusty or muddy I suppose.

[wpalmo]

"If the helpers make things too rough, a hard ride, what to do? Are the originals enough for a full load or are there stronger springs as a compromise that are ok. I seem to recall a post here about King springs."

Hi Carzee,

Looks like a great build you have going on there. Looking forward to watching how it progresses.

I have the original RFSV spring set up with the inner helper springs on the rear. I find the ride very comfortable even when the vehicle is unladen. Just my 2 cents worth into the discussion. I should preface my opinion however as I come from owning a Series III Stage One with leaf springs all round before I picked up the RFSV. It certainly is a drastically improved ride over the Series!

Regards Warrick.

[dugite]

If the helpers make things too rough, a hard ride, what to do? Are the originals enough for a full load or are there stronger springs as a compromise that are ok. I seem to recall a post here about King springs.

..........

Being new to the RFSV I have avoided a peremptory helper spring removal, and have been experimenting with sensible tyre pressures instead (which have other benefits off the tar I might say).

The double spring fitment in the RFSV (as per the LR130) certainly enables a marked extra fuel/water carrying capacity without overcompressing the rear springs - we'll see 

[Carzee]

Check out this idea!
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/fuel-solutions/boab-poly-diesel-tank-50lt.html
The angle of the side of the tank might just be the same as the angle of the panel behind the seats, in which case it would be very functional nestled at the front of the tray. .
Not sure about the filling or connecting, but it's a start.

Forgot to say I looked that over. And a very good website. Lots of stuff... [eyes glaze over...]
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/camping/front-runner-bbq-grate.html (fits on spare tyre)
http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/camping/front-runner-land-rover-defender-side-mount-table.html (nice)

[Dervish]

http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/camping/front-runner-land-rover-defender-side-mount-table.html (nice)

They are a nice bit of kit, certainly draws the attention of the locals.

[dugite]

Did I see those table clips on the side of your 110 a while back?

Do you know what they are called and where or even if they can be purchased separately?

[Dervish]

Did I see those table clips on the side of your 110 a while back?

Do you know what they are called and where or even if they can be purchased separately?

Yes, they've been on there for about 7 years. I'm afraid I don't know what they're called or where to get them, which is a shame as they're ingenious.

[Aussie Jeepster]

I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.
The measurement between the aerial mounts is 120cm, and if it is 60cm deep, then it could be hinged upwards to clip to the center canopy bow. If the holes in the aerial mounts, (which are 35mm in dia) were used as the hinge point, then it could be used horizontally with adjustable legs to support it from below, or something from the roof rack to hold it from above.
The rear mount and the tool locker at the back don't have much space between them so any hinge arrangement on the mount has to take this into account.
The beauty of this would be the table could be used on either side of the Landy, although I'd tend to use the side with my awning on it.
The hinging arrangement is what I'm looking for - coincidentally, I'm off to the states on Saturday so I'll be wandering around Home Depot and Lowes to look around for some options.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Measurements and a mock up of where the raised table would be positioned

[Carzee]

I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.

I got a spare sugar scoop last week from Howard to hand off to a fabricator who does mig/tig. I'm investigating the light roof rack idea. The std rack is heavy. If I can bolt four sq section "legs" to the inside pair of the 4 bolts on the four scoops, and have some horizontals connect the "legs" above the roof line I could probably go for a Gordigear Rooftop Tent with an interior ladder and annexe at the rear of the FFR to washup and get changed in.

Spending this fortnight - a water bladder from Fleximake, $200. Also a pair of new drab Maxtrax, $270. We'll see how long they last.
Last week I got a pair of XZLs fitted, tubeless, from where Rangie35/Johnny works now.

[Carzee]

I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.
The measurement between the aerial mounts is 120cm, and if it is 60cm deep, then it could be hinged upwards to clip to the center canopy bow. If the holes in the aerial mounts, (which are 35mm in dia) were used as the hinge point, then it could be used horizontally with adjustable legs to support it from below, or something from the roof rack to hold it from above.. snip

Very interesting use of those cable holes and the clip - "it could be hinged upwards to clip to the center canopy bow" thru the GS side window. Good thinking there. For the FFR you'd have to have the canopy side rolled up.

[dugite]

I'm looking at a table to mount on/between the FFR aerial mounts. It means no drilling of the Landy. Just need to work out some options to mount/fit it.

..
... Also a pair of new drab Maxtrax, $270....

Go back and change them for a bright colour Ross,    (so you don't lose them)