Author Topic: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.  (Read 3349 times)

Offline 2short

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Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« on: December 12, 2015, 07:25:16 PM »
In need of some good front seats for my 2a 109. Mine are knackered, coverings, foam and frames, knackered.

Also in need of a good gs canopy.

Have Blitz truck parts to trade if cash isn't your fancy.  ;D

Offline Spider

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Re: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2016, 12:10:12 PM »
I got some UV stabilized vinyl from spotlight 3m cost me about $70.00 and recovered my own, bad back I did in MDF and then got a single uncovered high density foam single mattress and re did the padding (cut and glue 2 pieces together and then shape to profile).
"NIGEL"
Land Rover Series III - ARN 33-629 Truck Utility 3/4 Ton, GS Cargo "UBIQUE"
Land Rover Series 2A - ARN 113-065 Truck, Utility, 3/4 Ton, GS, Cargo "HOLDFAST"
Land Rover Series III 109 Cararama 5 Door Wagon

Offline mike_k

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Re: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2016, 06:47:24 PM »
Spider,

How did you shape your foam for the curve at the front of the bases and at the top of the backs?

I seem to remember that you can use an electric knife?

I'm sure there is a better way though :D

Offline FFRMAN

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Re: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2016, 07:28:52 PM »
In need of some good front seats for my 2a 109. Mine are knackered, coverings, foam and frames, knackered.

Also in need of a good gs canopy.

Have Blitz truck parts to trade if cash isn't your fancy.  ;D

Howdy

I could help you out with some old seats but frames are good condition

feel like a drive?
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline Spider

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Re: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2016, 08:41:14 PM »
Spider,

How did you shape your foam for the curve at the front of the bases and at the top of the backs?

I seem to remember that you can use an electric knife?

I'm sure there is a better way though :D

I used a hand saw to roughly cut the angle and finished off with a long blade cutting knife (one of those orange plastic things). On the joining of the 2 pieces together for the base and backs I cut the slope on one of the foam pieces and then glued the cut piece to the top of the other uncut piece, used contact adhesive.

With the MDF pieces for the rigid base and backs it worked well because you can stretch and staple the vinyl to the MDF after a few dabs of contact and gluing the foam to the base.

It has worked.
"NIGEL"
Land Rover Series III - ARN 33-629 Truck Utility 3/4 Ton, GS Cargo "UBIQUE"
Land Rover Series 2A - ARN 113-065 Truck, Utility, 3/4 Ton, GS, Cargo "HOLDFAST"
Land Rover Series III 109 Cararama 5 Door Wagon

Offline mike_k

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Re: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2016, 09:09:11 PM »
Sounds good to me Spider,

And a bit safer than the electric carving knife method as well! ;D

I will have a go at this soon, thanks for your advice.

Offline Spider

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Re: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2016, 01:17:32 PM »
I used high density foam and it is pretty ridged so easy to shape and cut as it is so dense. You could also use canvas to cover the foam.

I only had to make 1 back and base as the steel frames were okay, I think I used 16mm MDF on the ones I made and covered the back of the back with a piece of vinyl to cover the cover I put on (lot's of repeated words there).

I have 1 new seat back for a 2/2A if anyone wants it (black vinyl) just have to collect it or pay for postage.

Glenn
"NIGEL"
Land Rover Series III - ARN 33-629 Truck Utility 3/4 Ton, GS Cargo "UBIQUE"
Land Rover Series 2A - ARN 113-065 Truck, Utility, 3/4 Ton, GS, Cargo "HOLDFAST"
Land Rover Series III 109 Cararama 5 Door Wagon

Offline SitRepNam

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Re: Series 2a seats and GS canopy.
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2016, 07:33:33 PM »
You can also roll the face edge of the foam back under itself gluing the face edge down to the board.  Cut the foam larger than the board then leave the thickness of the foam around the edge of the board unglued. Glue the board in the center of the oversized foam. Then when dry glue the edges down, rolled under.  This gives more support on the edge and no shape cutting is required for a perfect even curve. Also some cloth covering over the foam before the canvas or vinyl helps with support, wear and tear.  Use opposite directional stretching when tacking the materials to the back of the board for an even cover, and remembering contact adhesive to both surfaces to be glued, allowing time for them to be touch dry. Once they touch eachother, it will not need to be held in place, instantly sticking.