LRPV 113-657

[Tommy]

Picked up 113-657 today .

This was the first time I have been able to look at the vehicle in person. My first impression...not too shabby at all Better than I expected from a vehicle that has been sitting out in the elements for 25 years.





Back home.





The overall rust free condition of this Land Rover has pleasantly surprised me. Both the LHS and RHS foot wells are completely rust free. The lower door sections (which will remain on this LRPV) are in perfect shape. Rear cross member is virtually rust free, as is the entire chassis. It continues to amaze me that a Land Rover of this vintage (1964) can still be in such great condition. I suppose it helped that 113-657 was sold off quite late (1990) in the disposal of S2As from the army.







The inside of the drivers door (as shown above) has this written notation - No Go. The engine number of this Land Rover is - 25218828G. Not the original motor for 113-657.

My suspicions tell me that the original motor may have 'irreparably' broken down. Thus the 'No Go'. By the excellent state of the Duck Egg Blue paint and the fact that this engine number does not correspond with any other army Land Rover, I think it may be a crate replacement.





Other interesting finds on this Land Rover are -

Tub bolt holes for the rear MG pedestal mount.



Bolt holes in front spring hangers for steel plate rock guard.

Other interesting bolt holes in strange places.

And all four tires hold air and appear to be in acceptable condition.



More photos to come after I clean up the Land Rover and give it a good going over with the high pressure water gun.

[Carzee]

Post a picket asap...
 if SASRHC get a look 

[Tommy]

Post a picket asap...
 if SASRHC get a look 

Please explain?

 Way too cryptic for my small brain Ross 

[Tommy]

Spent this afternoon blasting all that Victorian lichen off the Land Rover . Came up a treat.

Motor looks like it is relatively new. Everything on it looks clean and tidy. I hope it runs.





Tub has been cleaned out. Rear seats will stay put as they were not removed during the early days of LRPV trials. A few holes around the tub that look strange. Will compare these with another FFT here in Perth.



Happy with the interior. Again, strange holes in bulkhead. Most of these had black duct tape over them. I presume to keep out dust and water.



Not sure about the Bridge Weight Plate. Definitely 'unit made' whilst in service. Is painted yellow on front and back. Has 'DB' under olive drab paint. High pressure spray revealed these letters.



657 looks much better now. Next job is to strip off the unwanted parts.

[Chazza]

Post a picket asap...
 if SASRHC get a look 

Please explain?

 Way too cryptic for my small brain Ross 

My guess:
Post a picquet - post a sentry in case some bugger pinches it.

SASRHC - Special Air Service Regiment Historical Committee

Nice find Tommy!

Cheers Charlie

[Mick]

Great to see she made it safe and sound.

Cheers,

Mick

[Tommy]

Post a picket asap...
 if SASRHC get a look 

Please explain?

 Way too cryptic for my small brain Ross 

My guess:
Post a picquet - post a sentry in case some bugger pinches it.

SASRHC - Special Air Service Regiment Historical Committee

Nice find Tommy!

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie. 'Post a Picket' must be an old military term 

With all this text auto correct on computers and ipads now, I'm not quite sure if the word posted is the one the writer intended to use.

By the way, I will be letting the SAS Historical Foundation know about this Land Rover.

[Tommy]

Had a play with 657 today.

I removed all the unnecessary parts and replaced some with LRPV parts. This is a trial fit to see what fits and what I need to do/make to finish the SASR modifications.

Comparison photos.

 

The spares mounted to the brush bar will need realigning by bringing them closer together. The FFT front exhaust will need to go and a standard GS exhaust fitted. Passenger side rear tub seat will come out. PSP Mat brackets will need to be made as will the dash mounted MG mount. Tub pedestal MG mount is complete and will require bolting to floor by utilising existing/original holes.

I am now trying to determine whether the vehicle was painted Bronze Green or Olive Drab when with the SASR. As the Land Rover would have only been six years old when the SASR used it, it may have still retained it's Bronze Green paint. Be great if it did as it would make a change from the standard OD.

[kman]

It is a term used by the military but it is spelt picquet. Basically a guard.

Howard

[AGAS 5]

Great photos, thanks 

[mike_k]

Looks good Tommy,

I'm voting for bronze green!

[Tommy]

Update...

Yesterday, 113-657s motor was started for the first time in...20 years?

REMLR member Gary was called in once more to check things out before the motor was started. After prepping the pistons and bore with diesel, we slowly turned the motor over with the crank handle to make sure all the internals got their fair share of lubrication. After many revolutions we tried the starter. Nothing. A quick check found that the coil was deceased. Down to the local auto parts supplier to pick up a new Bosch unit. Installed the coil and got that spark we were looking for.

As the fuel tank was a sealed unit (no military dip stick), we decided to rig a simple gravity feed fuel supply (funnel) straight to the carby. Topped it up and ready to go. Pressed the starter button and the motor flew into life. Ran like a charm. Sweetest sounding 2.25ltr motor I have ever heard. No smoke from any of the breathers or exhaust. None.

Very happy with this motor. Now for the clutch and brake pedals

Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HR-IE2b0pJo

 

[FFRMAN]

Wow that's fantastic Tommy, let's hope Road Patrol starts and runs as smooth.

how much Diesel and how long did you soak the pistons?

regards
Scott

[Tommy]

Wow that's fantastic Tommy, let's hope Road Patrol starts and runs as smooth.

how much Diesel and how long did you soak the pistons?

regards
Scott

Hello Scott

You must not start a motor that has been sitting around for 20 odd years without prepping it first. The bore linings are likely to have a small amount of surface rust from moisture that may have been present in the motor. Better to be safe than sorry.

Firstly remove spark plugs. Make sure you tag the leads as you can get these mixed up. Remove the oil bath air filter. Using a compressor and spray gun, spray diesel into each cylinder under good pressure. You will find that one cylinder will have it's inlet valve open so spray will come out of the carby. Just place your hand over it and continue spraying. You do not need to drench the cylinder with diesel. As long as diesel gets into all the nooks and crannies in the bore and pistons rings etc, you should be OK.

Now turn the motor over using the crank handle. Do this for a couple of dozen revolutions and you will be ready to go. This should also free up all the valves and lubricate the motor. Check that you have a spark as my original coil had dropped dead at some stage in the past. Clean the points and give the dizzy a good spray of CRC.

I used a jury rigged fuel system as I was not comfortable with 20 year old fuel etc. The oil in the motor was as good as the day it was put in so I did not replace it.

The ignition switch was not working so I bypassed it. Motor started first time. Ran like it was brand new.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

[FFRMAN]

Wow that's fantastic Tommy, let's hope Road Patrol starts and runs as smooth.

how much Diesel and how long did you soak the pistons?

regards
Scott

Hello Scott

You must not start a motor that has been sitting around for 20 odd years without prepping it first. The bore linings are likely to have a small amount of surface rust from moisture that may have been present in the motor. Better to be safe than sorry.

Firstly remove spark plugs. Make sure you tag the leads as you can get these mixed up. Remove the oil bath air filter. Using a compressor and spray gun, spray diesel into each cylinder under good pressure. You will find that one cylinder will have it's inlet valve open so spray will come out of the carby. Just place your hand over it and continue spraying. You do not need to drench the cylinder with diesel. As long as diesel gets into all the nooks and crannies in the bore and pistons rings etc, you should be OK.

Now turn the motor over using the crank handle. Do this for a couple of dozen revolutions and you will be ready to go. This should also free up all the valves and lubricate the motor. Check that you have a spark as my original coil had dropped dead at some stage in the past. Clean the points and give the dizzy a good spray of CRC.

I used a jury rigged fuel system as I was not comfortable with 20 year old fuel etc. The oil in the motor was as good as the day it was put in so I did not replace it.

The ignition switch was not working so I bypassed it. Motor started first time. Ran like it was brand new.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Very helpful, thanks Tommy.