Author Topic: Hi Range gear  (Read 3320 times)

Offline B 52

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Hi Range gear
« on: October 15, 2015, 12:04:24 AM »
Any ideas on how to remove the high range out of an LT95?
REMLR 092 Mk 4 Inter 172-571 S2A Survey Topographical  112-833 S2A GS 114-352 S2A GS 172-456 S3 FFR 30-857 S3 FFR 31-011 Perentie FFR 48-964 RFSV 51 678, No 5 trailers 101-025,154-267, 154-640

Offline rovernut

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Re: Hi Range gear
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2015, 12:29:52 AM »
Any ideas on how to remove the high range out of an LT95?
What do you mean by removing the high range. Is something broken, are you trying to change the gearing?

Offline B 52

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Re: Hi Range gear
« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2015, 05:59:32 AM »
Some teeth are chipped and its jumping out of high range
REMLR 092 Mk 4 Inter 172-571 S2A Survey Topographical  112-833 S2A GS 114-352 S2A GS 172-456 S3 FFR 30-857 S3 FFR 31-011 Perentie FFR 48-964 RFSV 51 678, No 5 trailers 101-025,154-267, 154-640

Offline BEARMAN

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Re: Hi Range gear
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2015, 06:54:38 AM »
To fix this you have to drop the oil and the sump. If yours has a pto you will have to remove it before you can drop the sump. Undo the nyloc nut on the pto front drive flange and remove the flange. Then undo the front half and remove it. Undo the rear half and it should pull out and leave the drive gear hanging on the chain- Then you can drop the sump and get to the gears. Remove the rear driveshaft and handbrake assembly  including the backing plate. Then you can remove the locking tab holding the intermediate shaft bolt. Remove the bolt (normal rh thread) it will be tight and with 1 hand hold the intermediate gears while you pull the bolt out and then you can lower the gears. When you reassemble the intermediate shaft you have to check the bearing preload before you fit it (in a vice) This is done with the small thick shim on the front end of the intermediate shaft - they come in various thicknesses) With a bit of luck you old one may be correct. Make sure you replace all o rings/ seals and torgue the intermediate shaft bolt to 125 ft/lb when you fit it. It would be wise to remove the centre diff while you are at it and check for wear especially the thrust washers and if you intend giving it some hard use I would fit a 1 piece shaft assembly (much stronger than the 2 shafts). Also make sure you loctite all the bolts holding the 2 halves of the centre diff casing together and the ones holding low gear on the casing.Have you got all the part numbers you need. Also you should be able to find all the info in the safety bulletin that AFM sent you. And a good idea while you have it all out is cut the pto chain and remove a link and buy a chain joiner link (its 1/2 inch roller chain) That way you dont have to disassemble the pto if you have to remove the sump again.
« Last Edit: October 15, 2015, 06:58:09 AM by BEARMAN »
09/1998 Perentie 6X6 ARN202516 - BRUTUS

Offline B 52

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Re: Hi Range gear
« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2015, 10:44:59 AM »
To fix this you have to drop the oil and the sump. If yours has a pto you will have to remove it before you can drop the sump. Undo the nyloc nut on the pto front drive flange and remove the flange. Then undo the front half and remove it. Undo the rear half and it should pull out and leave the drive gear hanging on the chain- Then you can drop the sump and get to the gears. Remove the rear driveshaft and handbrake assembly  including the backing plate. Then you can remove the locking tab holding the intermediate shaft bolt. Remove the bolt (normal rh thread) it will be tight and with 1 hand hold the intermediate gears while you pull the bolt out and then you can lower the gears. When you reassemble the intermediate shaft you have to check the bearing preload before you fit it (in a vice) This is done with the small thick shim on the front end of the intermediate shaft - they come in various thicknesses) With a bit of luck you old one may be correct. Make sure you replace all o rings/ seals and torgue the intermediate shaft bolt to 125 ft/lb when you fit it. It would be wise to remove the centre diff while you are at it and check for wear especially the thrust washers and if you intend giving it some hard use I would fit a 1 piece shaft assembly (much stronger than the 2 shafts). Also make sure you loctite all the bolts holding the 2 halves of the centre diff casing together and the ones holding low gear on the casing.Have you got all the part numbers you need. Also you should be able to find all the info in the safety bulletin that AFM sent you. And a good idea while you have it all out is cut the pto chain and remove a link and buy a chain joiner link (its 1/2 inch roller chain) That way you dont have to disassemble the pto if you have to remove the sump again.
Thanks very much. I have a couple of spare gearboxes out of range rovers to practice on before I tackle the real one. i also have a spare 6x6 gearbox from the last auction that is a recon. If I remove the 6by attachments and winch drive it should be good to use. I assume the gearing is the same.
REMLR 092 Mk 4 Inter 172-571 S2A Survey Topographical  112-833 S2A GS 114-352 S2A GS 172-456 S3 FFR 30-857 S3 FFR 31-011 Perentie FFR 48-964 RFSV 51 678, No 5 trailers 101-025,154-267, 154-640

Offline fc101

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Re: Hi Range gear
« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2015, 11:28:58 AM »
Here is a guide


Offline BEARMAN

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Re: Hi Range gear
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2015, 11:32:30 AM »
To fix this you have to drop the oil and the sump. If yours has a pto you will have to remove it before you can drop the sump. Undo the nyloc nut on the pto front drive flange and remove the flange. Then undo the front half and remove it. Undo the rear half and it should pull out and leave the drive gear hanging on the chain- Then you can drop the sump and get to the gears. Remove the rear driveshaft and handbrake assembly  including the backing plate. Then you can remove the locking tab holding the intermediate shaft bolt. Remove the bolt (normal rh thread) it will be tight and with 1 hand hold the intermediate gears while you pull the bolt out and then you can lower the gears. When you reassemble the intermediate shaft you have to check the bearing preload before you fit it (in a vice) This is done with the small thick shim on the front end of the intermediate shaft - they come in various thicknesses) With a bit of luck you old one may be correct. Make sure you replace all o rings/ seals and torgue the intermediate shaft bolt to 125 ft/lb when you fit it. It would be wise to remove the centre diff while you are at it and check for wear especially the thrust washers and if you intend giving it some hard use I would fit a 1 piece shaft assembly (much stronger than the 2 shafts). Also make sure you loctite all the bolts holding the 2 halves of the centre diff casing together and the ones holding low gear on the casing.Have you got all the part numbers you need. Also you should be able to find all the info in the safety bulletin that AFM sent you. And a good idea while you have it all out is cut the pto chain and remove a link and buy a chain joiner link (its 1/2 inch roller chain) That way you dont have to disassemble the pto if you have to remove the sump again.
Thanks very much. I have a couple of spare gearboxes out of range rovers to practice on before I tackle the real one. i also have a spare 6x6 gearbox from the last auction that is a recon. If I remove the 6by attachments and winch drive it should be good to use. I assume the gearing is the same.

Yep gearing is the same. Only the RFSV has the different transfer gearing. If you use the 6by box in a 4x4 make sure you swap the speedo gear otherwise you will read about 1/4 out.
09/1998 Perentie 6X6 ARN202516 - BRUTUS