Author Topic: Camouflage green - thinner?  (Read 9684 times)

Offline circlework

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 252
  • THANKS 24
  • Location: NW Tasmania
  • REMLR No: 400
Camouflage green - thinner?
« on: March 27, 2015, 01:36:57 PM »
Hey all,
I'm about to spray my split rims in Protec camouflage green - 342-1166 and would like to know what the thinner is to this paint and if I'll need to order it specially?

Also, I'd like to know if you folks think that this paint is tough enough for splittys, or if there is something tougher out there?


« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 01:42:50 PM by circlework »
Cheers,  Daryl.

49-181 'the SlugBox' Perentie Survey Hardtop.

Offline FFRMAN

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 2817
  • THANKS 211
  • Location: Western Vic.
  • REMLR No: 314
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2015, 02:31:25 PM »
HI,

I've used Protec enamel thinners from same place you buy the paint.

Yes it is tough enough for split rims - tough enough for anything really!
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline Ravvin

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 589
  • THANKS 61
  • Location: Wesley Vale, Tasmania
  • REMLR No: 432
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2015, 05:22:23 PM »
Hi, are you sure about using thinners?
The Tech sheet, http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/342%20Camouflage%20Enamel%20Rev%20Nov%202011.pdf, says to use turps.
FFR79 had an issue here, http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=3022.0 where it turned out glossy when thinned with thinners.

Offline FFRMAN

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 2817
  • THANKS 211
  • Location: Western Vic.
  • REMLR No: 314
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2015, 05:32:26 PM »
Hi, are you sure about using thinners?
The Tech sheet, http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/342%20Camouflage%20Enamel%20Rev%20Nov%202011.pdf, says to use turps.
FFR79 had an issue here, http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=3022.0 where it turned out glossy when thinned with thinners.

OK, sorry it's called enamel reducer, whether it's thinners or not.........

Also the paint goes shinny if the compond that gives it the Matt finish is heavy and sinks to bottom easily, if stirred thoroughly, ofetn it's OK, it did happen to me also once.
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline fc101

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 641
  • THANKS 55
  • Location: Canberra
  • REMLR No: 243
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2015, 06:00:55 PM »
I have always used enamel thinners and not had any issues - I must admit I thought the reference to turps was for clean up but reading the above advice it certainly indicates turps. 

I need to do some touch up so I will try turps rather than thinners and see how it goes.

Garry

Offline Philthy

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 537
  • THANKS 71
  • Location: Brisbane
  • REMLR No: 425
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2015, 07:23:53 PM »
Hey all,
I'm about to spray my split rims in Protec camouflage green - 342-1166 and would like to know what the thinner is to this paint and if I'll need to order it specially?

Also, I'd like to know if you folks think that this paint is tough enough for splittys, or if there is something tougher out there?

Do it in 2K paint for rims if you can.  Why?

 I’ve had to wait for over two weeks for this paint to cure enough to apply a fastener to this enamel without a fastener crushing or screwing it off the painted surface…

Should you use it? Depends on what you want the paint  to look like further down the track, if you want the stressed look “just been dragged through the bush” in the future  it will be perfect.  If you just park it in a shed it will always look new. Was told by Protec expect to lose half the colour every two years in green and one year for black. There is next to none UV protection in this paint otherwise it would shine...

Don’t take my word for this alone.

A test you can do is by buying an aerosol tin and do a test. (It’s exactly the same as the “public pot paint” they sell.) Do an abrasion test over a period of time(days and weeks), you will see that in two months’ time you could drag just a fingernail through the paint marking it. A small branch in the scrub will take this all the way to the primer. (Their etch primer is reasonably hard and should offer bare metal protection in most cases)

Another experience I’ve had with Protec paints is the difference in the shade of the same colour code. So buy it all in one go what you need in a pot and don’t expect every spray can to be the same shade as well.

You have choices –below-This is a colour codes for dulux. Note this green is the pre Aus. Cam Green. BTW I have not seen a green rim in the Aus. Cam. It’s always been in the old olive drab, but faded. The only Aus. Cam Rims I have seen was in 2K Pilbara Brown.
These colours is off the Dulux master codes.

Do a search, there is a company in Melbourne that does 2K paint in aerosol tins (they work under the same principal as a can of “draft Guinness beer” they have a second compartment in the can that you activate it before using. They colour match and fill to paint codes. They are one of the only companies in Australia to do this ATM.

Hope this helps you decide.

Phil


« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 07:53:45 PM by Philthy »

Offline AlexR

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 239
  • THANKS 32
  • Location: Bathurst, NSW
  • REMLR No: 402
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2015, 09:06:48 PM »
So the 50YY 22/145 would be the best match in dulux?
1989 Perentie 110 GS and No. 5 trailer
1974 series 3 cab chassis
1987 Perentie cab chassis

Offline Philthy

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 537
  • THANKS 71
  • Location: Brisbane
  • REMLR No: 425
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2015, 10:16:35 PM »
So the 50YY 22/145 would be the best match in dulux?
To do it properly you need to go to a supplier that has a “master colour code book” this was Dulux’s book.  “Is a pigment recipe book” I just like Dulux Auto paints from the past.
I took a bit off mine to get it matched. Used a bit thats in the best condition that I could carry in. (I used the inside the LH drive handbrake cover plate).
Mate I can’t tell what settings you have on colour on your computer nor graphics card. So it’s best done in the flesh. I just posted this to table an option that’s out there.

Note that this is the colour match for anything not auscam on my 110. 
« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 10:20:16 PM by Philthy »

Offline circlework

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 252
  • THANKS 24
  • Location: NW Tasmania
  • REMLR No: 400
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2015, 12:50:31 AM »
Greg, thanks for the link.   I tried entering the full product # into their search engine and it spat the dummy.


I have always used enamel thinners and not had any issues - I must admit I thought the reference to turps was for clean up but reading the above advice it certainly indicates turps. 

I need to do some touch up so I will try turps rather than thinners and see how it goes.

Garry
Thanks Garry,
The way I read the Data Sheet is that reducer, is just that ... reducer and @ 15% max and a turps clean-up.
They only mention reducer in the 'mixing ratio' section, so I wouldn't be adding turps to reduce it.
And "do not use R103 all purpose thinner in" which I would think, might be the same or a close match to GP thinners.

Phil,
I thought at first, you had used turps in the mix, re drying time, until I read this ...
"Do Not attempt to wash the painted surfaces unless thoroughly dry, a 3-4 Week drying period is recommended"  :o
I'm wondering if the ADF ever took any notice of that recommendation, although a good percentage of the fleet is always sitting around, contemplating its navel.

Looking to order a can of 342 reducer now, as well.    Mind you, I'll secretly be testing my GP thinners, but don't tell anybody!
I'll eventually let you all know how tough 342 is.



Cheers,  Daryl.

49-181 'the SlugBox' Perentie Survey Hardtop.

Offline Ravvin

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 589
  • THANKS 61
  • Location: Wesley Vale, Tasmania
  • REMLR No: 432
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2015, 09:21:09 AM »
Actually, when they say "Reducer - up to 15%", the "Reducer" is a generic term to cover all reducers. Check any of their  other Tech Data Shets.



Right there at the top, it states that the correct reducer for the 342 series of paints is R203 Mineral Turps. R203 is the product code they sell the Protec brand of turps under.
If in doubt, just ring or email them directly. I've found them very helpful and I asked them the same question when I first got my paint. I read the sheet and asked them where I could buy 342 reducer from. :)

Offline Philthy

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 537
  • THANKS 71
  • Location: Brisbane
  • REMLR No: 425
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2015, 04:44:16 PM »
Id double check this sheet spec. paint with IRR is not sold to the public? Does this make a difference in the application, I don't know.

Here is the contact for the 2K paint http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Touch-Up-Any-Color-2-Pack-Spray-Paint-Can-Aerosol-2k-/321185388705 The name slips my brain now but there is a chemical that flattens any shine out of the paint.


Offline THE BOOGER

  • Administrator
  • Veteran
  • *****
  • Posts: 1516
  • THANKS 148
  • Location: wetherill park, sydney
  • REMLR No: 282
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2015, 05:04:48 PM »
The fellow at protec minto says they all mil spec paint sold to the public is semi gloss not full ir paint that may be why some people are getting a glossier finish than they were after
s111 GS, no 5, xt600 & Ferret mk2
Geoff C

Offline Philthy

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 537
  • THANKS 71
  • Location: Brisbane
  • REMLR No: 425
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2015, 05:51:43 PM »
The fellow at protec minto says they all mil spec paint sold to the public is semi gloss not full ir paint that may be why some people are getting a glossier finish than they were after

Geoff that's a good point. Time will fix that shine for sure.
or give it a wet rub with 3000 grit wet and dry if you want it now.

Offline circlework

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 252
  • THANKS 24
  • Location: NW Tasmania
  • REMLR No: 400
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #13 on: March 28, 2015, 06:30:32 PM »
Oh well, I'm lost (that was easy eh!) I'll give them a call.

Thanks.

Cheers,  Daryl.

49-181 'the SlugBox' Perentie Survey Hardtop.

Offline circlework

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 252
  • THANKS 24
  • Location: NW Tasmania
  • REMLR No: 400
Re: Camouflage green - thinner?
« Reply #14 on: April 01, 2015, 10:27:53 AM »

Just ordered 4ltr 342-1166 and 4ltrs of reducer, which they said was not R203 turps, but R303 enamel reducer.   They said the R203 would dry much too slowly and was good for wash-up only.    When quizzed on GP thinners, the answer was that it was too course, would still work, but after around six months would start to turn chalky.
Hope this helps.

Cheers,  Daryl.

49-181 'the SlugBox' Perentie Survey Hardtop.