Inter 170-952

[john.k]

Ive done many IH waterpumps and never broken an impeller when a press was used..Yours looks very clean on the shaft,may have been done recently.Certainly its had an effective corrosion inhibitor in the water.Dont forget to pull the circlip from in front of the bearing,before pressing it out.Regards John.

[Ravvin]

Thanks for that.
I popped it out earlier with no problems. I have a couple of plates for the press with sections cut out that fitted around the gussets on the pump housing perfectly. I found a good big bolt that was just the right size and pressed the shaft out. The gauge never even got to 2 tonne. Now I just have to work out how the seal comes out of the impeller. The rubber has badly perished and there is a lot of hard orange scale stuff on it.
I rang the local Iveco dealer today and he looked up the part number I have for the rebuild kit. It's still in the system, but Iveco themselves don't have any. He said that the system showed a supplier in SA had a load of them and he offered to call them for me. When he called back, he told me that they had lots of kits, but didn't have any impellers or know where to get them from. He told them that he had something like 200 impellers in stock but had never known what they fitted.  Now they're both happy. Still charged me full price though.
A month or so ago, while the radiator was out, I ran a flush through it for around an hour and it cleaned a log of nasty orange stuff out of the passages. When I dropped the original water that was in the truck when I got it, I found it was a bright orange colour and it took a lot of water to back-flush it until it ran clean. More than half the tubes in the radiator had corroded through at the top where they joined the header tank. I'm pretty sure they never put any corrosion inhibitor in it.
Seeing as I couldn't do anything else yesterday, I pressed out one of the uni joints from the main driveshaft so I could show the guy at the driveline centre what I wanted. I can confirm that the correct part is made by Hardy Spicer and the part number is K5-GB22R. Previously when I checked around town, I was quoted $66 +GST at one place and $73 inc at another place. The place I ordered mine quoted me $44 inc each and will have them here by Thursday. I could have them tomorrow if I wanted to pay $20 for an overnight bag, but I'm not in that much of a rush. I can fit the new uni's under cover so its a good job to save for the nasty, wet, cold, short days that are on the way. Unless I win Lotto this weekend.

Greg.

Just realised, my THANKS button is gone. Can't thanks anyone for all the help they've given. Anyone know what the deal is? Also, the REPLY button at the bottom of each thread looks like a piece of it is missing. Weird.

[john.k]

Inter s used a strange stuff called IH Irontite as an inhibitior and leakstop.It is a collodial iron suspension and is blackish when you put it in the water,but rapidly turns the water a soupy orange yellow,as you might expect.It leaves a mud of iron oxide in undisturbed engines.No one else ever used it ,to my knowledge.Its harmless to radiators.However another popular inhibitor of those days was chromate solution.The very best ,used in expensive yankee diesels.Unfortunately,as the concentration of chromate reduces,it actively attacks radiator cores and copper tanks.Turns the copper into crumble.Nevertheless,radiators allways go thru at the tops of the tubes when they get old,often you have to shorten the core and resolder,if a recore is to be avoided.Regards John.

[Philthy]

Waterless coolant is the ducks guts and the way to go.

You’ll never go back after using it. You are going to see more of this in the near future.

Prices will come down as more players come on the market.

Outstanding virtues.

Obviously no corrosion/ electrolysis.

This won’t pressurise the system when hot no blown cooling systems due to pressure.

Check it out-

http://www.evanscooling.com/

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/waterless-coolant

[Ravvin]

Yep, that Irontite sounds like what I found when I drained it. It makes sense too, as there doesn't seem to be any pitting in the metal the water was in contact with, and if the stuff in the radiator was caused by corrosion, I would have big holes all through the engine. When I drained the radiator on the weekend, I found that only the very top layer in the radiator had orange stuff in it. It seemed to separate out and rise to the top. I was surprised that it was still coming out, as I previously ran the truck with the hoses going to an open drum and I kept changing the water. When I finished, it was staying clean. I suppose its still in the engine, and running it with the system pressurised is enough for it to dissolve. For now, I might keep running it with plain water when I run it and drain the water at the end, so it doesn't freeze. Eventually it will clear up. I'll put coolant in it before I start using it though.

That waterless coolant looks good, but, as you say, its not cheap. The trucks hold 20.5L of coolant, so 4 bottles worth.

I was curious about shed prices, so I asked for a quote on the one I posted a pic of above. I had no idea what sort of price I was looking at. So far, I have a price of $56,000 for the actual shed, $2,500 for a 4" slab, if there is only minimal excavation required, and I'm still waiting on the costs of Council permits and the actual building costs. Also, they never even checked the section where you could ask questions. I asked about window placement, a mezzanine floor at each end, staircases and wiring. Nothing in the quote. I think the problem is that the design program is on the main shed company's web site and they direct it to whoever the local agent is for the quote. You don't find out who that is until you get the emailed price. Now that I know who the local mob is, I'll ring them direct. Not sure what the deal is, but over the last week or so, I have seen 4 different companies all advertising these sort of sheds, and I hardly ever watch TV. I suspect it's because Agfest is on this week and they will all have reps in the state, trying to get people's attention. I'd never heard of any of them before.

Greg.

[Ravvin]

Well, I collected my water pump rebuild kit today. The local Iveco dealer got the kit in and added the impeller from his stock. I could have reused the old one, as it only had minor chipping on a couple of vanes, but this way I have a spare. If anyone ever needs just an impeller, Iveco have them as part number 858333R1.
As you can see in the pics below, the new shaft is slightly different. It has an extra groove that the old shaft didn't have, and the workshop manual says this is for the slinger. I don't have one of these. Is it going to be an issue? The old shaft and bearing were marked 885144.3G. The new one is stamped H-885603 and has Hoover, Made in USA on the bearing.



The seal is also very different from the old one. The old seal had a rubber surround that fitted into the inner workings of the pump. It had a tube section that fitted into the back of the impeller to stop water going down the shaft and through the centre of the seal. The new one has a metal outer shell that presses into the recess in the pump body and the back of the impeller appears to run on some sort of insert in the back of the seal. I hope that's right. You can see the insert in the right-hand pic below.



The only markings on the seal are a "127" on the insert face, and "R Crane Packing Co" on the metal lip. The kit came with the 2 gaskets needed and a new circlip.
I have a lot of cleaning to do before I can rebuild it. The recess where the old rubber seal fitted has chunks of perished seal stuck to it and a lot of rough flaky stuff, probably a buildup of the old Irontite that John.K mentioned. It may have been leaking previously but only when the system was pressurised. With the leaking radiator core and the split seam on the header tank, there wouldn't have been any pressure until I recored the thing and fitted a new radiator cap. The crud should clean out ok and I'll finish the surface with wet & dry. I'll use a smear of Formagasket #3 when I put it back together, just to make a better seal.

The box for the rebuild kit, minus the impeller, is marked "Auto Surplus, WS588 Water Pump Kit." I just did a quick search and Auto Surplus is a specialist parts place in Victoria and has the same logo as on the box. I might send them my list of Wanted bits and see if they can supply any.

I've come into possession of a print-out of a scanned copy of an old army transport training manual that explains vehicle recovery. It goes into a lot of detail about calculating traction and stresses, and covers the Inters and Land Rovers. It's pretty hard to read as it is so I will scan the images and retype the rest of the document and make it available for the Mods to add to the Library if they are interested and don't already have it.



ps. While searching for something while typing this out, I found a pic of the seal in another water pump thread and it is exactly like the one I have, so that's a relief. http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=718.msg5904#msg5904

Greg.

[Ravvin]

I got the water pump rebuilt and refitted today. I had to clean the seating surface for the seal with emery as the metal and rubber from the old one had really stuck hard to it. The new seal pressed in easily and I used a smear of Formagasket 2 around it, just in case there was wear from my cleaning. When I cleaned up the back plate, I found it was quite pitted and there was a groove around the edge where it looks like some chunks of an impeller got ground in at some stage. It's still pretty thick, but I will keep an eye out for a complete pump as a spare. I'll get the radiator back in tomorrow.

I took the old spark plugs leads off, with a lot of effort. Most of the caps were missing from both the plug end and the cap end. Over the years moisture and stuff had gotten into the sockets in the cap and corroded the ends. Most of the leads came out without any solid metal bits on them. I had to dig that out with a thin screwdriver. I cleaned all of the sockets out and gave them a touch up with emery and found an issue with plug one.



The inside looks good and the rotor button is spotless. I think plug one was arcing up the side. It's actually eaten the Bakelite of the cap away. I found a cap in stock not too far away, so I'll grab it first thing tomorrow. With new plugs, leads and cap, it should run even better.

Greg.

[john.k]

Use copper wire core leads with any old style caps,high impedance leads will cause carbon tracking and a break down in ignition on the first cold wet morning.If you must use a resistor,use it between the coil and dizzy.This is why more modern setups with high impedance leads used a huge dist cap.Also dont use point sets that have plastic components,they will melt and leave you stranded sooner or later.The genuine Bosch points had fibre rubbing blocks that didnt melt if the ignition was accidentally left on for a short while.Regards John.

[Ravvin]

The radiator is back in and full. The oil hoses to the cooler are on at long last. The oil filter is in and the oil level is at the top mark on the dipstick.
The new distributor cap is on and the new leads in the correct holes.
And I can't find the correct gap for the spark plugs anywhere. Anyone know what it should be?
I've also realised that in all the pics in the manuals, it shows a metal disk or shield, between the points and the rotor. Mine doesn't have this. Is it critical?
Also, the points are almost worn away, so I will have to get new ones. I meant to take them out today and take them in when I got my cap, and totally forgot.
I also have to take the tappet cover off and either make a new cork gasket, or clean the existing one and use a good sealant on it. It's letting oil leak down over my nice clean engine, making it look like a Land Rover.
It's also leaking out around the pivot pin in the fuel pump. Not sure what I can do about that.
So, any idea on a good plug gap?

Greg.

[Bluebell One-eight]

Plug Gap is .028 -.032" or .718 - .832mm. The oil leak at the fuel pump is probably the seal in the base of the pump housing letting oil past it and then that oil leaking out from the housing drain hole.

[Ravvin]

Thanks for that. I'll get them in tomorrow.
While I was wiping things down so I didn't get anything inside when I took the side cover off, I realised that the oil was actually coming from under the front of the tappet cover. The oil was clean, and I had only just tipped it in. When I took the tappet cover off, I found that the cork gasket had moved at some point and there was a space where it wasn't sealing, allowing the new oil to trickle down the side of the engine, build up in the top edge of the side cover, then run down and drip off the bottom of the fuel pump. (I worked out that I have the early fuel pump, with the manual priming lever.) Unfortunately, the cork gasket was very brittle, and broke into 3 pieces as I went to pick it up. It's been squashed almost paper-thin around the edges, but looks like it was originally 3/16" thick. I have a sheet of cork for making gaskets, but it's only 1/8" thick. I could either use that, and just put a thick RTV gasket maker paste on it, or wait and order a genuine one from Iveco on Monday. I'm probably better off waiting as I can then get a new side cover gasket and 3 new rubber bushings for the bolts that hold the tappet cover down. The old ones are rock hard and loose on the bolts.
I have to adjust the valve clearances too. While I had the top off, I noticed some seemed to have close to 1mm of clearance. The workshop manual says to set them between 0.024" and 0.026" when hot, and preferably while running. I'll set them at the larger opening while cold and check them again next time I can give it a run. I'd prefer not to do it while running as it's likely to be messy. I recently replaced the head on my Discovery and didn't take the wire off the fuel cut-off when I cranked it over to check oil flow to the valve train. The damn thing fired on the first turn and started squirting oil all over the engine bay. Lots of fun.

Greg.

[Ravvin]

Hi all.
It's been a while since I got anything done due to the weather down here.
I used a cable tie through the spark-plug hole to find top dead centre of each piston and set them all at 0.025". After I get to give it a run and warm things up, I'll check them all again.
The gaps were more than twice what they should have been.

I hammered all the dings out of the tappet cover and cleaned it all back to bare metal as much of the paint was gone and it was pretty rusty.



Under the most recent coat of grey paint, I found that it used to be painted gold. You can just see a bit of it on the left end in the pic above.
After stripping it back, I gave it a few coats of gold high-temp engine paint and left it to dry for a few days. After that, I fired up the barbecue and baked it for an hour at about 150°.
It was supposed to be 93, but even with just one burner going, it crept up. As you can see below, it came out alright.



I found that the new cork gasket kept trying to move as there is no groove or bolt holes to locate it. I used a bead of high-temp RTV silicone
around the tappet cover to fix it in place and used pegs to stop it moving until it set. After it was dry, I cleaned off the bit of silicon that had oozed out
and coated the side of the cork gasket that contacts the block with a aviation gasket paste #2, which is a non-setting type.
This way I don't have to worry about the gasket moving and losing it's seal, yet I can still remove the tappet cover to set valve clearances without wrecking the gasket.

Before I can give it a run again, I have to refill the black drum with fuel. What do you all suggest I use as additives?
I know some older engines can handle unleaded without an issue, but I know my old Holden had to have some sort of lead-replacement additive or it wouldn't run properly.
I'm not planning on leaving the fuel in the drum long term, so I'm not worried about fuel stabilisers.
I'll use it in the chainsaws and the mower, if the weather ever fines up, and just get more when I need to run the truck.

Thanks.
Greg

[Mick]

Hey Ravin,

Got to say I'm really enjoying your work - great stuff !

Thanks mate,

Mick

[Chazza]

Before I can give it a run again, I have to refill the black drum with fuel. What do you all suggest I use as additives?

Thanks.
Greg

Gee whizz that rocker cover looks nice!

I use Premium Unleaded in all of my old and new engines and never have any poor-running issues and it seems to last quite well in the tank too.

Thank you for taking the time to report on what you have been doing - it is such fun to read your posts!

Cheers Charlie

[bush man]

hi greg  inter seems to be coming along well that tappet cover would look good on my fire truck ,looks great

  regards john