Inter 170-952

[Ravvin]

Yes, the tappet cover came out really well. If I ever have the engine out, I'd like to do the whole thing.
Not sure where I would get an oven big enough to bake it though. 

I gave it a short run after fitting it and it sounds much better now. I'm guessing a lot of the noise was from the excessive valve clearances.
It still has a hesitation when accelerating though. I have to check the timing and it would probably pay to give the carby a good clean and maybe a rebuild kit.
I noticed a red stain down the sides from the dye in the fuel, but it may be from a long time back.
The way I look at it though is that if I rebuild it now while its here in the paddock, I'm less likely to have it fail out in the bush miles from spare parts.
Also, if it does break down later, at least I know how it all goes together. The frustrating part is that every time I fix one part, I discover another part that needs work. 
Oh well, it all has to be done sometime.

After I gave it a run, I was moving some tools around when I bumped the highly technical alternative fueling system.
(The black drum with the garden hose stuck in it in the pic below).



It was almost empty. I'd moved it around while working on the tappets recently and it was over half full then.
I followed the hose down and found it was leaking out where it joined the fuel pump. The garden hose was very old, cracked and hard from long sun exposure.
I'd say the fuel had syphoned out slowly. The good thing is that it might kill the damn grass that keeps growing under the truck where I can't get the mower.
I thought about changing priorities and getting one of the fuel tanks refitted, but then I would need to run the new fuel lines as well,
and I would always have the risk of fire while I clean and repaint the rest of the chassis. I found the solution while checking out a big second-hand
shop while I was supposed to be working. I picked up a plastic boat fuel tank. I'll leave the squeeze bulb in the line, but remove the hard plastic hose
and replace it with the proper rubber fuel line. This way, I can disconnect the line from the tank if I need to refill it or when I need to grind or weld in the cab.

The day before I found the tank, I went to buy some petrol so I could run the truck more. Now that the oil cooler is back on, every time I run it,
it pushes more oil into it and the level on the dipstick drops way down. I top it up, run it a bit and check then repeat.
My regular jerry can was full of diesel, so I grabbed one of the ex-army ones I had here that I was going to clean up and repaint.

   

I filled it up about 3/4 as I was worried the seal in the lid was dried out and cracked and I didn't want it to leak if it sloshed around.
When I got home, I used a funnel with a strainer, luckily, as I couldn't find the pouring spout I had. As soon as I started pouring,
I realised that the lining of the jerry can had cone off and was coming out with the fuel in big chunks. It looks like layers of old red lead paint.
I'm not sure what they used to coat the insides with, but now I need to work out how to clean and recoat this one. Steam cleaning might work.
The paint didn't dissolve in the petrol, so I was able to strain it out with the filter in the funnel, then I ran it through again with a piece of paper towel in the bottom.
With the amount of flakes I got out, I think about half the lining came loose.
Other than the lining coming loose, the jerry can is in great shape for it's age. It is very heavy gauge steel and there is no sign of rust or wear. Once its cleaned up, I'll use it on the truck.

[Chazza]

A cheap and very good fix for the inside of the jerrican is to pour in some glue - the sort used to glue PVC pipes together in domestic plumbing. The glue not only catches a lot of the very small particulates but it also is impervious to petrol once it has cured. Cleaning before-hand, can be achieved with caustic soda solution and a water jet.

Commercial fuel tank kits are available for about 5 times the price.

 Go to http://www.remlr.com/ ; Restoration Information; Fuel Tank Repair, down at the bottom of the page,

Cheers Charlie

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Just wondering if everything is okay with Ravvin? No posts since July and he was working away like a Trojan on the Inter. It was great following the progress on the Inter.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Ravvin]

It's winter down here. I haven't been able to get anything done in ages.
The ground is saturated and it's too cold for the paint to dry properly, so I have just been making lists and collecting bits for the next steps.
I plan on welding up a tube frame with trolley wheels on the corners that I can bolt to the bottom of the transfer case. Then I can lower it down onto some steel sheets I have and skid it out from under the truck to give it a clean.
I have to replace some of the input/output seals, so may as well do them all now and check the support bearings.
If it's on the frame, I can winch it up a ramp into a trailer and take it to the shed at work to keep out of the weather while I get it ready. Anyone have a rough idea on what it might weigh?
While it's out, I plan to clean the chassis rails in that area, prime and repaint, and drop the winch unit out to do the same.
The days are starting to get longer and daylight savings must be due soon, so I will have some time after work when it's not raining before it gets dark.
Soon as I start working on it again, I'll be posting lots of pics and walls of text here to bore everyone to sleep again.

Greg.

[Ravvin]

Well, it's warming up and the days are getting longer, finally. Unfortunately the damn grass is growing again too.
My next job is to get the transfer case out so I can clean and paint the chassis rails back to the winch. I also want to change some of the transfer case seals as they all show signs of leaking. This may be just from sitting so long, but it would be much simpler to do with the box out.
The transfer case is fixed to a cross-member with 4 big bolts from the top. This cross-member is bolted to some heavy angle brackets that are also bolted through the chassis rails. There are 6 bolts holding the cross-member to the brackets, all with rubber suspension bushes and castellated nuts with split-pins. The split-pins had totally rusted and seized in place. I tried CRC spray and heating them, but there was no way they were coming loose. Its very hard to get at them with tools as they are up inside the chassis rails. I finally got mad with it, put a good impact socket on them and used a breaker bar and length of pipe. The castellated nuts easily sheared the rusted split-pins off. I took 2 off on each side and left the middle ones on about half a nut's worth of threads to hold it until I could work out how to get it down. There is a pair of  5/8" steel rods with brackets on the ends that brace the bottom of the transfer case so it doesn't move back or forward. I was sitting under the truck, loosening the bolt where these braces connected to the transfer case. I'd forgotten that I had undone the bolts on the upper end of the front brace as they went through the bracket that holds the fuel tank and I'd needed to remove it. The brace dropped down and got me just above the eyebrow. It's surprisingly heavy. After that, I decided I'd had enough for the day and packed up.

The next day, Repco had a sale on and reduced the price on ATV lifts. These look just like a transmission lift to me, so I grabbed one. It should come in handy when I replace the main seal on my Discovery when I get time. The transfer case has a couple of ribs moulded into the bottom of the housing and it is narrower than the lift rests so I fitted a board across the top. The lift comes with a couple of ratchet straps, but they are very thin and stretchy. When I do the Discovery I think I will use my heavy duty cargo tie-downs instead. I got the lift positioned under the transfer case, sitting on a couple of sleepers. I jacked it up and strapped it to the transfer case. I jacked it up a bit more and took the last 2 nuts off and lowered it all down. Everything went right and I slid it out from under the truck with no problems.
As you can see in the pic below, the top of the cross-member was full of rust chunks from the tray. There was also a section of a sheep's spine, several ribs and other assorted bones.



The pivot for the handbrake linkage is seized solid. I can't even get the pin out to remove the rear link rod. I'll make up a tool to press the pin out, then wrap the pivot in diesel-soaked rag for a few days. That should free it up enough the get it apart for cleaning.
As you can see in the 2 pics below, the transfer case is filthy. It is caked with something like a cross between grease and tar. I've soaked it in degreaser and pressure-washed it, but it just won't move. I can remove it with a scraper or screwdriver and then the last bit comes off with turps, leaving the original dark green paint as good as the day it was put on. It must just be a mix of leaked gear oil and road dust, but it sure holds on well.

 

I was planning on using my hand-winch to drag the entire trolley and transfer case up into the trailer so I can take it to work and clean it up. Once there I can get it on a pallet and trundle it around while I clean and repaint it, after I replace the seals.
With it out of the way, I can clean the chassis rails back to the winch. With the transfer case out of the way, I should have enough room to free up the winch actuator. If I can get it to disengage, I can pull all the cable out and lower the winch unit like I did the transfer case. Once it's out, I can clean right back to the rear of the truck, and start putting the driveline back in place.
Looking forward to being able to move it under it's own power. Then it will be diffs and brakes.

Greg.

[john.k]

To clean rusty jerry cans or fuel tanks or any container with rust,get some crushed gravel with sharp edges,like "blue metal",wash it ,then put it into the container,and shake vigorously with water washing out the loose rust.It will quickly have the container clean as a whistle.You can then shake and wash out the gravel,and finally wash out the tank thoroughly.Doing this will avoid a lot of drama on the road later on.Incidentally,if you convert a petrol vehicle to diesel the tank should be washed like this ,as the diesel will pick up all the sediment and block filters,even though the petrol engine was running without problems.Regards John.

[Murray Mk4 Inter]

That ATV lift is certainly handy. This is one of the jobs we have to do also, so I might invest in one of those lifts.

Murray

[Tommy]

Thanks for the update Greg . A mighty fine project you have there.

As Murray stated, that ATV lifter is one to put on the shopping list. I see it has a foot pedal for lift and lowering action of jack. Did you use this when gearbox was on lifter. If so, how did it handle the weight. One final question, what is the maximum height the lifter will go to?

Keep the posts coming. Very interesting reading.

[Chazza]

Top report Greg! I hope your head is feeling better.

Here is a lift that might interest you Tommy http://www.rpchardware.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1316&currency=AUD&language=en

Cheers Charlie

[Murray Mk4 Inter]

I just went out and bought one of those atv lifts.

They are on sale at Repco until the 20th Sept for $135.00
Normal sale price is $201.00, so saved $66.00

It has a 680kg capacity, 115mm to 418mm lift range.

It should make some of these jobs a bit easier.

Murray

[Ravvin]

Yep, the lift handled the weight with no problems. One thing to remember, if you position it to slide out sideways like I had to, is that as it lowers, the load moves forward in relation to the lift. This is because it is a lever system rather than a scissor action like proper transmission lifts use. For Inter owners taking the box out the side of the truck it means you have to lower it a bit, then drag the trolley back. If you don't, the crossmember hangs up on the far side chassis rail. If you are on a nice flat concrete floor it isn't an issue. But I wasn't. You could get under, position the lift facing the rear of the truck, lower the box and then just pivot it around. You can't see it from my pics but the ground slopes away from where the trolley is sitting. This meant I was dragging the damn thing uphill all the time and trying to hold it in place as well. Those straps are far too stretchy. I eventually ran one through the top mounting bolts and back to the heavy rail where the jack mounts to. This stopped it wanting to tip off the lift all the time. The instructions show the straps going through the loops above the front wheels. This can't possibly work unless you only strap it down after you totally lower it. I fed my straps long-ways through the lifting legs.
As for handling the load, I never had a problem. I estimate the box weighs between 150 and 200kg with the top cross-member as I was able to stand it back up after if tipped over to the passenger side when I lowered it. I twisted and walked it around to get it back on the board, but I wouldn't like to try picking it up by hand without help. I actually lowered it down and jacked it back up to see how hard it was and it's easy. I used my bare hand to work the jack pedal as there was no room under the tray to position myself to use my foot.

Two minor issues I have with the lift though. I bought mine last Saturday and never got it out of my car till this Friday. When I got it out, it was in a brown box with 2x plastic straps around it. I cut them and it had another colourful box inside, with 2 more straps. I cut these and opened the box. The instruction booklet was on top. No jack. I actually read the manual, thinking I had missed something and would have to buy the jack separately. Nope. Supposed to be there. I repacked it all, sort of, and headed back. Repco had no problem with swapping it, as they could clearly see there was no marks on the packing where the jack was supposed to sit. I opened the new box right there in front of them and checked everything was present this time. It must have been a Friday job.
The second issue I have with it is that the manual and box show it as having brakes that lock the rear castors so it can't trundle off on it's own. The lift doesn't actually have them though. It has a long bolt on each side rail at the back that has a plastics knurled handle on top. The idea being that you wind them down until they touch the ground and lift the back wheels off the ground. I found it incredibly frustrating to try winding these damn things down with one hand, while holding the trolley back from running away with my transfer case and also holding the case upright so it doesn't tip over again because of the stretchy ratchet straps. Would have probably made a good Funniest Home Video. At least with the castor brakes you can lock them on with your toe. These bolts only just touch the ground when fully wound down.
Something to remember if any of you get one of these is that they have roughly 10mm ground clearance. Sweep your concrete floor to remove any rocks or grit before using it or you will lose your load when you hit one, like a skateboarder finding a handful of bluemetal on their footpath.

Greg.

[Ravvin]

Only got a bit done today.
I used the 2.5mm steel sheets that were riveted to the frame that made the sides of the truck tray when I got it. I put one on the ground and dragged the trolley onto it. Slipped the next one under the end and rolled the trolley onto it. Picked up the rear sheet and moved it to the front and repeated until I got it all to the concrete path and my work bench. I have no way to get it up on the bench, and it would probably go through it anyway, so it can stay on the trolley under a tarp for now.

As you can see in the first pic below, the cross-member is going to have to be replaced. Too much of it has been corroded away with the chemicals leaking through the tray above, over the years. It looks like a simple job, as it's just a section of channel with 10 holes drilled in it. If I can't get heavy enough channel in that size, I might just use I-beam and cut one side off.

What I thought were bolts going through the cross-member and into the transfer case are actually 5/8" studs with spring washers and nuts. Or what used to be nuts.
I soaked them overnight with CRC and heated them up with a small butane torch before trying to get them off. The first one came off fairly easily. I used a breaker bar and belted it with a piece of timber. It started moving after the second hit and I was able to wind it off after that. The second took a few more hits to get it moving and then screwed the 4.6" long stud out of the housing. There is a round steel spacer between the cross-member and the housing. I'll get a couple of nuts to suit and lock them together on the stud, then hold it in the vice. I'll carefully slice into the nut in a few places with the grinder, as my nut splitter won't quite fit on these nuts. That should be enough to get it off without damaging the stud. The third one is on the passenger side of the case and it only has a short stud and no spacer. It was pretty corroded, with sheets of rust flaking off, making the nut smaller than the others. I cleaned it up a bit and hammered a smaller socket on and was able to get it out eventually, short stud and all. Another one that I will have to split the nut.
As you can see in the second pic, there is very little left of the last bolt. Not sure what I will do to get it out.

 

Any suggestions? I'd prefer not to cut up the cross-member if possible. I want it for a template. I may just have to get all the measurements off it and make a new one though. At the worst, I could cut the vertical side of the channel away so I could get a pair of stiltsons on it and maybe wind the stud out. If I stuff the thread, I suppose I could always just get a long 5/8" UNF bolt and cut the head off to make a new stud.

I cleaned a bit more of the sticky gunk off the transfer case and found that the original dark green paint is mostly still in good condition. At some point it has been painted over with olive drab, but it didn't bind very well. On the back I actually found that they had painted right over a layer of oil and road grime. Twice. I was able to peel the layers of paint and gunk apart to count them. On the drivers side, up near the top, I found 4 small brass rivets where the Mod plate used to be. The chemicals leaking through seem to have totally destroyed it though.
Oh well, enough for now.

Greg.

[john.k]

The case has an alloy housing and the studs and bolts have a habit of rusting in immovably.Usually applying some heat around the thread will expand the alloy sufficiently to release the thread.Whatever you do,dont break off any fasteners in the alloy.Allways apply some compound when refitting fasteners in the alloy.Of course as this is a Landrover forum everyone would be familiar with fittings seized into alloy.I seem to remember that the  mounting studs are 3/4 unf,and I definitely have new ones somewhere.There is also several crossmembers in the back yard that havent yet gone to the scrappies.Regards John.

[Chazza]

As you can see in the second pic, there is very little left of the last bolt. Not sure what I will do to get it out.

 

Any suggestions? I'd prefer not to cut up the cross-member if possible. I want it for a template.
Greg.

If you very carefully grind away one of the faces of the nut, it will heat up and weaken to the extent that it should undo. Grind until the metal turns blue, which is the indicator that you are about to grind into the stud as the nut has become thin.

Depending on the thickness of the metal, a new cross-member can be folded by anyone with access to a Hydra-bend; it looks to be about 3mm so that should work. Ring an engineering company and they can tell you the maximum thickness they can bend. This may work out cheaper than freight to Tassie, if you accept John's offer,

Cheers Charlie

[Ravvin]

Thanks for all the helpful info.
John, I'll send you a PM about those cross-members and studs.

Well, I got the last nut off. I chipped all of the flaking rust chunks off and tried a big pair of vice-grips and a hammer, but the metal of the nut just smeared. I heated it with a butane torch and tried again, but still no luck. Finally, I used the grinder with a thin cut-off wheel and sliced down each side, as close to the thread as I felt comfortable with. With 2 parallel flats, I was able to use a big open-ended spanner on it and it stretched enough to release the thread and undo. Here's a pic of it below.



The thread on the stud is almost perfect, except for the first thread. I'll see if I can get a lend of a 3/4" thread-cleaning nut and fix it up. Otherwise I'll just grind the top down a bit.
I held the 2 studs that unscrewed out of the housing in the vise and made a cut down opposite faces of the stuck nut. Then I was able to give it a tap with a cold-chisel and the nut just popped apart.
The cross-member is made of 3/16" steel. I was able to measure it through the bolt-hole, which is about the only area that is still the original thickness. You can see in the pic below, just how much the steel had deteriorated with the heavy corrosion.



If the weather is good tomorrow, I will make a start on cleaning the transfer case, ready for repainting. The original dark green paint is still mostly there, just missing from a couple of the aluminium plates and housings that bolt to the main case. Looking at them, I think they were probably never painted. They are in good condition, but have a lot of white powdery corrosion on them. I need to remove them all to replace the seals and gaskets anyway, so I might clean them back and give them a coat of alloy-etch so the whole case can later be painted camo green, which looks to be the last colour it was painted. I just have to be careful that nothing important falls out when I remove them.
Looking at the drive flanges, they appear to be held on just by the large nut with the split-pin. I assume there is either a spline or a key and key-way to stop slippage.
One issue I foresee is that there are some odd seals on the input/output shafts that may not be available any more. I'm hoping that there is something compatible, that is better than the original.
The RPS lists them as "seal, plain encased, steel case, one felt and one spring loaded leather element, 2-3/8 in. shaft dia, 3-3/8 in. bore dia, 3/4 in. w". There are 3 of these, one on the input shaft and the others on the output shafts to the front and back diffs. The winch drive output shaft has a similar seal, but smaller.
What are everyone's thoughts on replacing the gaskets? Is it really necessary to have a paper gasket these days? The gasket-making compounds seem very popular, and I would have thought they would make a better seal, as long as I don't go overboard and use too much so that it gets into the internals.

Greg.