Perentie FFR Clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder Part numbers.

[Stenny]

Hi Gents. Anyone  have any idea what the part numbers are for the Clutch and pressure plate, also the Landie slave cylinder P/N? I would prefer using the Isuzu Clutch if possible but if anyone has any other recommendations, I am all ears. I am guessing the slave cylinder is the same as the Civie 4BD1 cylinder, but it is always worth asking the questions so correct me if I am wrong.

Cheers.

[dugite]

Clutch plate LR No: AYG 3616

Get your clutch supplier to look up and see if there's a cross ref to  a nissan clutch to fit - I've heard that they're better (higher spring pressure) but haven't yet investigated.

Slave Cyl LR No: FTC5071G (sl cyl common to many LRs); the one I carry in my spares is made by capart uk their No: 4253-312P.

[dugite]

the only ref I have for the Pressure plate is 5312200240, hth 

[Stenny]

Cheers mate. Will look into it.

[Phoenix]

Ok, I forgot I got an email with some information about this, hope it's not too late.  But for future reference as well

Clutch Parts

Master Cylinder 4x4 and 6x6 - STC500100 (LR UK Civilian Part)
Slave Cylinder 4x4 and 6x6 - FTC5071 (LR UK Civilian Part)

Clutch PLate 4x4 and 6x6 - AYG3616 (4x4 used to have it's own plate, but for commonality now uses the 6x6 plate.)

Pressure plate 4x4 only - 5312200240 (Isuzu Part for Land Rover)

Pressure Plate 6x6 only - 8970317502 (Isuzu Part for Land Rover)

6x6 uses a heavier plate due to increased power/torque and weight. 4x4 plate should never be used on 6x6 as will fail. 6x6 can be used on 4x4, but it will give an excessively heavy clutch for no gain. Also it's dearer.

There were dowels in the flywheel to prevent interchange, but these have probably been long removed. Also recon pressure plates have been mixed,  with ostensibly 4x4 recon carrying the 6x6 Isuzu number and visa versa.

Care should be taken.

[Stenny]

Sorry for the late reply. I have been away for a few weeks out at work. Thanks very much for this. Excellent info. I havent done anything with it as yet and I am still debating if to even touch it. It doesnt slip or anything and the vehicle drives fine, but I have a funny feeling I am getting a slight touch of clutch drag for reasons unknown. It gets a tad hard to get out of first and reverse sometimes if stationary and angled up hill such as a boat ramp with the boat on (6 mtr boat) and engine running, and I can definately detect a slight engine note difference from the normal idle note when pulled up at intersections. It is as if the pressure plate still has a very slight hold on the clutch plate and is still spinning the input shaft around. It tends to only do it after driving for quite a while though. When I shut the engine down, wallah - easy changes - reverse and forward so its not a box issue. The clutch is definately adjusted properly and I have even tried over stroking the master cylinder slighty as an experiment, same result.. I fear something is not quite right wth the clutch or pressure plate and is not releasing properly. Weird one, but the debate continues if to change them out as it only serves as a vehicle to launch my boat 2 klm's from home and satisfy a severe Landy addiction I happen to have, so I will see. Anyhow again thanks for the effort, much appreciated!

[Phoenix]

I don't know these well myself, but I was told the following of your dilema.

It's not the clutch. LT95 Gearboxes have no synchro on first or reverse and both are notoriously difficult to get into gear if the revs are not correct. Even when stationary with the engine running, it pays to dip the clutch a couple of times to try to get teeth aligned. Not always successful and some 'grating' may occur. Always notch and stiff, just one of the idiosyncrasies of the box.

[DennisM]

My civvie County (84 model) Isuzu is fitted with the Nissan pressure plate, the first one lasted some 16 years, cheers Dennis
ps why not try what most Series Land Rover owners do, pull the box into top gear then try to select 1st or reverse,,. and I was always under the opinion that the box is a full synchromesh.

[BEARMAN]

Yep, synchro on all fwd gears but not reverse. Does sound like a dragging clutch to me. I would be looking at slave or m/c problems or air in hydraulic line. The LT95 is not a box where you can do fast gear changes, easy does it and they work fine.

[Stenny]

Hi again Gents, no I don't have trouble getting it into any gear really. So long as the vehicle is moving, the changes are slow and precise it changes gear fine when out and about. Especially since I put "Royal Purple" Purpose formulated gear box oil, designed for boxes that take engine oil into it, the changes are ten times better than when I got it. Excellent in fact, though reverse grates a bit sometimes but I expect that of any old box. A lot of manufacturers didn't have synchro's on reverse so that part I know is normal, its the getting it "out of gear" - particularly when on an incline I have trouble with. It is as if the clutch is dragging and trying to spin the input shaft, so therefore if the input shaft is slightly loaded and trying to rotate - but cant, the gear train becomes loaded - but not spinning. I actually pull spanners for a living and I have seen this condition before several times over the years, but it has always been a lack of adjustment thing. Adjust them up so they stroke the fingers on the pressure plate out a bit further, a few minutes later they are good to go again. Not mine though.  If a gear train is "weighted" as we say, most boxes don't like to come out of gear whilst the gear train is still partly loaded because it is trying to rotate but cant - so it puts the meshing gear faces under load - and it doesn't take much. Gears do not like to come out of mesh and move along the shaft on the splines whilst rotational load is still applied.  This is why I say I think it may be the clutch dragging, especially since audibly I can detect a very slight difference in engine note to that of when idling in neutral, but I cant feel it trying to pull the vehicle or anything which is why it has me stumped.  The master cylinder is new and the slave cylinder is unknown but this vehicle has had a complete Army make over a few thousand back so it would have been replaced then, and I have tried over stroking the master cylinder out to the point where I can physically make the clutch slip under acceleration through over adjusting it, but once in reverse, same deal... I can physically stop the engine and the minute the engine stops spinning, it drops out of gear. If I reverse my boat up an incline it will almost certainly not come back out of gear unless the engine is stopped, and the moment I stop it, in and out of gear easily it goes. Anyhow at the end of the day a 25 year old vehicle is going to have some quirks, and that's why we love them - isn't it! Keeps me entertained and alert, and nervous - and at times frightened - gotta love them hey!

[Phoenix]

Oops, yup, made a mistake on the synchros, sorry folks!

[Rangy35]

How old is the clutch fluid?

[smcg631]

Not sure if you've fixed the problem yet Stenny, but a friends camry had almost identical symptoms about a month ago. With engine running, gear changes were near impossible, we managed to work out the clutch was definitely dragging, however the clutch fork was still moving it's specified amount. I concluded (with the help of a couple of forums) that something had become wedged between the clutch plate and pressure plate, or something along those lines. Pulled clutch out, and sure enough a small part of the metal casing near the springs in the clutch plate had snapped off and was rattling around between the clutch and pressure plates. New clutch etc. and problem solved. Sounds like it could be similar to what's going on with you.

You could try jacking one wheel up, putting in gear with clutch pedal pressed then see if wheel wants to turn. Might not be dragging enough to push car forward, but just enough to make changes difficult.

[Stenny]

Hi all, yes I know it is an old topic, but one that needs an update as it is probably going to present itself as an issue now there are a lot of these Perenties starting to get about with various degrees of Clutch decay. I did finally decide to do the Clutch a while back, even though as I have said earlier it mainly only gets used to put my boat in and out of the water, but anyhow I did it as it was annoying me. I used the Heavy duty Clutch available from KLR Automotive - and a couple of things became immediately apparent, and so worth noting here. Firstly, the gear box now works as it should, no grating going into reverse or any other gear for that matter, still very deliberate changes needed though which I believe by other comments here is quite normal for LT95's and it now comes out of gear when asked -every time! So all good. Secondly, the clutch plate pressure is noticeably heavier with these Upgraded pressure plates and Clutches. So a point to ponder upon if thinking about using the Heavier clutch. Its not overly bad, but definitely a lot heavier and a bit annoying for the first week or 2 when driving - so I thought this may be a point to note for some if not intending pulling huge weights around up Hill and down Dale. I pull a pretty big boat around so thought it wise at the time.  Also, another point to note with these Clutches, there is a discrepancy between Input shaft spline to Clutch plate spline mesh dimensions - compared to the Genuine Army plate. Myself (Diesel Fitter) and another Specialist Landrover Workshop Mechanic in Hervey Bay measured it several times, used grease on an old shaft, and there is definitely a discrepancy between the amount of shaft being engaged by the new plate compared to the old. In fact about 5mm. Not much but it is there. The Genuine plate splines are mainly central to the plate, but part of the drive spline is biased toward the Gear box, but the new clutch does not have a bias, the splines are the same length and sit centrally in the plate only, but the input shaft spline starts to taper off at least 5 mm before the end of the Plate spline..... I contacted KLR at the time and was advised it is ok to use and they don't fail- in fact they make mention these plates last forever in their Website. Still thought worth mentioning here as it definitely would have influenced my decision on what would have gone back into it if I had known. I cant remember exact dimensions now, as I say it wasn't much, but I think it was something like 20mm engagement on the Shaft for the new plate verse 25 mm on the original. Anyhow not criticising, just informing others to the facts so individuals can make informed decisions. Cheers.

[Carzee]

Thanks for the detailed report.

This is a good place to make a note about pressure plates, for reference.
A member down here had clutch slippage about 5 or 6000km after fitting the KLR turbo.
Seems the turbo 4BD1 6x6 Perentie use a stiffer pressure plate.
That upgrade pressure plate was fitted and it is a stiffer clutch pedal alright, takes some getting used to.

Apparently they fit a Nissan PP.

I also heard, from another source, AuLRO I think, that that pressure plate is a Nissan Pootrol MQ part. Could be BS/gossip, I don't know.


Oh, I just re-scanned above postings and see that Dennis (Dinty) must've been the Nissan info source, so its not BS.