48-010

[Electric C]

Good I'll stop wondering there use! Glad your going to such detail, I will do mine to oringinal best I can but I will make it a "ute" it will be a "practical restore". But still I'm loving your posts here.

[Dervish]

Here was tonight's project, restoring the gear knobs. The main gear knob was held on with RTV; it was replaced with a proper rubber bush. Hopefully that will hold it in place better, the RTV never instilled confidence. Once that was done, I filled in the letters with some old white modelling enamel I had from years ago. Very satisfying - but we'll see how long it lasts.



I have also picked up a bonnet release cable, just waiting for the little clip that holds it to the radiator support panel to arrive. I went to Robco this week too, but more on that later.

[Dervish]

48-010 has been off the road for the past month or so as the fuel tank decided to spring a leak. It has been a long process getting everything in order to complete the repair. As you may know, to buy a tank new from LR is around the $1700 mark. No thanks. Luckily Dodgeguy1942 was able to help out with a tank for not much at all, so a big thanks to him. After getting the tank home I started the process of cleaning it out and preparing it for a spray.

Old tank out:


New tank sprayed and ready to go in:


Also, having now pulled the old tank, I could see that the front tank mount was cracked – nothing a little MIG can’t fix, but I’m worried about how many cracked ones might be out there!



I switched the bonnet opening mechanism from the lever through the grille to the cable mechanism most Landy owners would be familiar with, as this is how it would have been in 1987. It also means there’s no access to the engine bay without access to the cab, which is a security benefit. Cost of the switch was about $21 with all new parts, refreshingly cheap.

I have also been getting stuck into some restoration works lately, starting with the motor. The old 4BD1, despite running like a top, looked a little bit sad. First up was the rocker cover, which was starting to rust and had something like hardened glue all over it. It was wire brushed, primed and painted in engine enamel.



Hopefully today I can get the tank back in and be back on the road (or off the road) 

[isuzutoo-eh]

I switched the bonnet opening mechanism from the lever through the grille to the cable mechanism most Landy owners would be familiar with, as this is how it would have been in 1987. It also means there’s no access to the engine bay without access to the cab, which is a security benefit. Cost of the switch was about $21 with all new parts, refreshingly cheap.

Are you sure about that? I ask because my '85 110 has the lever behind the grill, not cable to the cab. The civvy version has a keyed lock to prevent foreign intrusion to the engine bay.

The tank looks smart, might have to crawl underneath mine to check the bracket!

[DennisM]

Those cracks (fatigue) are a common fault, my Nov 84 110 Isuzu had one fitted from new, I had to reweld it some 2-3 years ago, cheers Dennis

[Barefoot dave]

Are you sure about that?
Yep. Circa 1992, Mod#21. Your original bracket should still be near your left knee.

[Minikeg]

Also, having now pulled the old tank, I could see that the front tank mount was cracked – nothing a little MIG can’t fix, but I’m worried about how many cracked ones might be out there!

That explains why with no physical damage, mine leaks hoped it was a perished hose

 

[richard c]

my 1985 Isuzu 110 also had the bonnet catch in the centre of the grill with a hole in the surround where a key lock could be fitted.  Been gon quite a few years now so I can't check if there was a bracket inside.

My current 130 has the bracket inside and the 'tug' lock

[Dervish]

Are you sure about that? I ask because my '85 110 has the lever behind the grill, not cable to the cab. The civvy version has a keyed lock to prevent foreign intrusion to the engine bay.

As far as I can tell from Googling, 1987 was the changeover year from keyed lock to release cable. I also notice that the IPVs (03/87) had the keyed latch while mine (08/87) had the release cable. How can I tell? The bracket was there and had marks indicating that a cable had previously been installed.

I can't imagine that the army would've been thrilled with the keyed latches at any rate, given their aversion to keys in general. Perhaps the change was made at their request? Who knows.

[Phoenix]

Ok, so the bonnet release issue (which I will repost in it's own thread in the 110 section).

So the change to the bonnet release was conducted at the Army's behest in 1992. Originally they were built with internal release cables, but there were a couple of faults.

1. they often broke & 2. in the event of an electrical short, they often became the 'earth' with a resulting melting of the outer case and an immediate cessation of bonnet release ability.

Whilst on the subject of this, I am told it would be wise for owners to check and clean all earth points and check conductivity, as after the removal of the bonnet release cable, the heater control cables became the favored path of the 'wriggly AMPs' as an earth with a similar cessation of function.

Recommendation would be to stick with the external release on that basis.

I have also attached a Service Bulletin which details the changeover parts etc.

[Dervish]

That is unusual...

I've seen a number of cables from body to engine - i.e. handbrake and accelerator - become earths, but never a body to body cable like a bonnet release. Stranger still are the heater cables which are bulkhead to bulkhead! These must've been seriously rusty Perenties, even in '92!

[Electric C]

Having 49-017 and it being sold in 93, it hasn't recived a lot of mods (well army ones). The bonnet lach being one, so I cab safely say it's supposed to rub against your left leg and work half the time.

[Dervish]

Over the weekend I got busy on a few jobs getting the Perentie for the LR Expo coming up. First up was respraying the grille surround so I could put the Land Rover 110 sticker on, so it has become the first OD panel. I decided to try paint stripper for the first time, but it turned out to be a mistake. The stripper removes layers in a binary fashion - either they're all there or not all there at all - which made getting a good level surface impossible without digging all the way through the layers. So it went back to bare metal.



Once that was done, Mrs. Dervish and I thought a good activity for Sunday would be to make up some TAC plates. So off we went to Bunnings to pick up some gal sheet and paint. First up I made a 1RAR TAC as that was present on my TAC plate holder under the Auscam. The Mrs. made a TAC of a wedge-tailed eagle, which I quite like. My stencil for the 1RAR TAC ended up not working well, but I think it looks authentic if nothing else. Too neat and nobody would believe it was real 



After that I decided to try to make a REMLR TAC, which is a difficult task. The Mrs. made a pair of very elaborate warpath TACs that are still sitting to dry fully with the contact still masking the red of the flower (any resemblance to real ADF TACs is purely coincidental  . The REMLR TACs will need some touching up with a brush, but it made for good Sunday entertainment.



(photos in this post make the TACs look much better than they do in real life!)

[FFRMAN]

Great stuff, can't wait to see it as it was as the first "real" Perentie.

Oh yeah I see you have a real authentic mid - late 80's picnic chair ready for when you take the pernetie out bush!

regards
Scott

[Phoenix]

We do have the REMLR ones for sale as vinyl stickers

Looking great though!