FFR Refurb

[gromit]

I thought it was about time I put this project on REMLR.

It was an Ebay purchase that had a few surprises.
The damaged wing, door and the fact it didn't run I was aware of. I then found the air filter had no oil so the motor was 'dusted', the canopy roof leaked, all the hubs had water inside so wheel bearings had to be replaced, prop-shaft joints had water in, sliding joint gaiter on propshaft had water inside........

This was when it arrived.



Here is the roof problem.



The motor rebuild is in this thread on AULRO http://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/118730-ffr-refurb.html
After eventually finding new +.020" rings the bore was honed and the wear ridge hand scraped.

Here it is after cleaning earlier today.



The canopy has a new roof panel and will be fitted once any painting has been done.
Over the Christmas break I'll replace the wing/mudguard.



Colin

[gromit]

Must be a limit on the pictures that can be posted, kept getting an error message.


Here is the damaged wing.



This crease in the tub will be interesting to remove.



The brushbar will have to go into the 20t press or I'll have to borrow an oxy set.




Colin

[Phoenix]

My old series 3 FFR had a bend in the brush barjust on the middle, not top bar.

[gromit]

Found some time today to replace the damaged wing/mudguard.

Wing removed.



Replacement wing fitted.



Was straightforward just the usual rusty bolts that didn't want to be removed. The headlamp wiring on the replacement wing had been cut short so I swapped over the wiring from the original. Just need to re-fit the TAC plate holder.
I removed the brushbar while I consider how to straighten it.
The bumper needs a lot of work. Looks like a chain has been wrapped round it to tow it at some point and then there is the impact at one end. Might be easier to look for a replacement.





I have a replacement door but I'll remove the skin, straighten the frame and try to get the skin back into shape


Colin

[juddy]

If you are posting via Photobucket, you might have the same problem as me, I can only post one of 2 at a time.

[gromit]

If you are posting via Photobucket, you might have the same problem as me, I can only post one of 2 at a time.

I can get 4 photos then I start to get error messages.

Colin

[Tommy]

Hey Gromit

Love your work . Great to see the FFR getting some attention.

The brush bars are quite easy to straighten. I found the steel flat bar to be 'malleable' and can be manipulated with ease. From the photos of the brush guard, it looks as if you just need to place it in a press and straighten it lengthways. On the other hand, the bumper bar is another story. Bloody strong and hard to straighten. Hunt around and you should be able to pick up a good second hand unit for a small price. Panel beaten bumpers never look right

Question: Are you retaining the camo pattern or are you going back to OD?

[gromit]

Hey Gromit

Love your work . Great to see the FFR getting some attention.

The brush bars are quite easy to straighten. I found the steel flat bar to be 'malleable' and can be manipulated with ease. From the photos of the brush guard, it looks as if you just need to place it in a press and straighten it lengthways. On the other hand, the bumper bar is another story. Bloody strong and hard to straighten. Hunt around and you should be able to pick up a good second hand unit for a small price. Panel beaten bumpers never look right

Question: Are you retaining the camo pattern or are you going back to OD?

I'm going to retain the camo pattern. Initially a can of black spray from Protec to match in the replaced guard and later down the track maybe a respray.

Thanks for the tip about the brushbar.
I did try thumping the bumper and didn't get much result. One end is fine just the pinch and one bent end, maybe if I can find one where the passenger side is straight..........


Colin

[gromit]

Found this at a Trash & Treasure market at the weekend.




One broken and one missing grease nipple and the locking pin & clip are missing. Needs pulling apart because it's very stiff.


Colin

[FFRMAN]

Greta find! one can have some good luck sometimes.

is it a 2A or S3 stand off bracket?

cheers
Scott

[gromit]

Not sure, what's the diffence Scott ?

Colin

[FFRMAN]

Not sure, what's the diffence Scott ?

Colin

Slightly large hole spacing vertically on a series 3 than series 2A, so one doesnt fit the other,

I fell for it once and took me a while to work out what was going on.

Regards

[aussiegregmac]

The only way to know for sure would be to line it up on the rear crossmember.
I'll make a guess though as I got a couple of Series 2A copies made once.  You might find the locking
Pintle Hook is from earlier Series 2 and 2A.  The reason might be that by the Series 3 era all Lunettes were
rotating ones so "they" deleted the locking tab.  Funny thing is, now the locking ones are sought after.

But, then again I could be wro...... I mean wron.......    OK. Incorrect then.
Greg

[aussiegregmac]

Just re-read that.   I meant to say by the Series 3 the lunettes were  NON ROTATING ones
Greg


Incorrect again you ask   No , just wrong.
Greg

[dugite]

My ex-army S3  had a rotating pintle hook with a locking tab