Registering a 'Perentie' Landrover

[P6X6]

WA Registration Requirements for Land Rover Perentie

They are as follows in basic form

- "Black Out Lighting" must be removed
- Tools and Brackets must NOT be secured to bonnet and jerry can racks must not interfere with lighting or drivers view
- Door locks must be fitted *soft tops can apply for a exemption*
- Bull Bars / Bumpers must not have any protruding objects such as recovery hooks etc


Here ya go folks straight from the horses mouth

Chuck

These don't impress me much as all.
Especially if I have to cut up my standard bull bar !!

When they said the black out lights had to be removed, was it just the lighys on the front, or the switch and wiring because I'm pretty sure all the lights circuits pass threw the pineapple switch

[chuckt]

in the paperwork i have it states that the reason the blackout switch needs to be removed is because the brake lights must work at all times . to be honest nothing was said about my blackout system .. so far . i plan to wire the brake lights straight from the ignition addressing this issue. i might reword that bit about the black out lights

[P6X6]

If that's all it is we should be able to move the wire locations on the pineapple switch so it does t isolate the brake circuit. I can have a look at the schematic tonight and get back to you. This would be VERY easy to do I've run a few wires for lights off that switch. It's easy to play with ...... As long as you don't short it out disconnect the batteries first:)

[chuckt]

that would be good if you could work that out! from my quick look at it i thought it would be easiest to just go from the ignition straight to the switch on the pedal which then goes to lights and then ground

[P6X6]

Righto,
I believe (from sitting at a desk) the easiest way to bypas the black out switch is as follows
1. Isolate battery
2. Remove screws from black out switch plate
3. Pull out blackout switch (AKA pineapple switch) from the dash.
4. Remove 1 green purple wire from one side of the switch (pin 5 or 6)
5. Put the now free wire on other green and purple wire with the screw.
6. Tighten up both screws as you may want to put it back to original
7. Re-install pineapple switch and plate and connect batteries
8. Test brake lights in all 3 positions

This is effectively bypassing the blackout switch without running new wires, cutting original harness and very simple. Shouldn't take more than half an hour to do the hole job (says the fat man sitting behind a computer)

[Dervish]

I imagine they'd also be upset about the switch disabling your headlights, so you'd have to attach the brown wires together as well as the green/purple trace.

[Mick_Marsh]

I imagine they'd also be upset about the switch disabling your headlights, so you'd have to attach the brown wires together as well as the green/purple trace.

There is a switch on the steering column that disables the headlights.

[Dervish]

There is a switch on the steering column that disables the headlights.

I was asking for that. Still, I think you may need to disable the blackout switch entirely to satisfy these people, which means GP to GP and N to N.

[chuckt]

After speaking with them again this morning to get some confirmation on the blackout lights. You can have the switch to keep with the "theme" but it must not function. The wiring must be cut and joined in such a way that it can not be easily reconnected after inspection

[aussiegregmac]

Can't these people get a grip on themselves.
Officious little Bxxxxds flexing their muscles.
Can't they get around the fact there is thousands of Mil. vehicles
all over Aust. that have everything that still work.
How many Series 2 and Series 3s are there out there that still have working blackouts,
tools on the body and protusions elsewhere. 

What's the point of Preservation and Restoration if they keep changing
the rules.  Or making them up as they go along.
As B52 just said. He's had no problem.

Best bet,  do whatever you have to do but save what you take off.
Greg Mac.

[B 52]

On the compliance plate it states the vehicle complies with the ADR's in force when the vehicle was built. No further discussion should be necessary. As long as the vehicle is in a roadworthy condition it should pass. Some vehicle examiners seem to think that because it hasn't been licensed before it has to come up to the current ADR's. I bet the 1988 ADR doesn't mention blackout lighting. I had an examiner who thought I had to make it brand new when I did my FFR so I took it to someone else who told me that examiner was a dickhead. I agreed

[chuckt]

has nothing to do with ADR. Its complying with state regulations

[THE BOOGER]

Yes but do they even understand their own state regulations as pointed out the civilian Tanami defender has bonnet mounted tool holders are they now illegal as do series landrovers . Door locks ok they are some times enforced in other states but not uniformly My Isuzu truck and many others have recovery eye bolts on the front bull bar they also stop the bar from tilting with the cab they are fine. If they made statements like they don't meet ADR,s and the ADF has a blanket immunity it shows they don't know what the are talking about but they are the ones to make and enforce the rules

[Aussie Jeepster]

I may have a solution to the "cut off your towing eyes" problem with the registration authorities.
This is just an idea, but who knows.
My other driver is a J##p Wrangler with a factory fitted front steel bar.
All Wranglers incorporate crush cans on the front bar, so Jeep have a plastic cover over the crush cans which is held on by 4 screws from the back of the bar.
Would it be worthwhile for someone to make up (removable) covers for the towing eyes???
I've attached some pics of the cans, covers and my Perentie and I think it would be fairly simple, but my skills in this area are zilch!! I'm happy to do the photos, but no good at the rest!!

[P6X6]

That looks like an excellent idea !!!