LEAKING CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER ON A SERIES 2A

[Mick]

Hi everyone,

I had my 88 " GS at the 65 years of the Land Rover yesterday, and discovered a brake fluid leaking onto the clutch pedal. I reckon it's a leak at the master cylinder . Does anyone have any tips for young players in sorting out the problem?

How long to repair? Could I get away with keeping the reservoir topped up for a trip to Dookie without getting into trouble ?

Appreciate any advice.

Cheers ,

Mick

[FFRMAN]

Hi Mick,

Yep welcome to Land Rovers...Lol

Common problem, it will just be a very slow drip, it will strip all the paint off in the foot well (where ever it spreads too) but if you keep an eye on it you can drive it for a long time. But master cylinder will need to be replaced.

Not hard to do, couple of hours from start to finish, worse part is bleeding brakes. A one man job except bleeding the brakes unless you can suck it through.

You will need to remove the fluid reservoir (which means bleeding the clutch as well) and the bracket holding the "jam"tin, six bolts in the foot well holding the assembly in place (captured nuts so easy to undo) and remove the brake pedal etc, then swap over the master cylinder, try and remember the position of the adjusting nut and put it back in the same spot (you'll see what I mean) it make it easier to get a good brake pedal feel when bleeding up again.

Give me a call if want any more help

Pretty sure Dennis M has a post about this in one of his threads, I'll have a look.
Check this out and get some motivation! http://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/111187-113-372-a-44.html


cheers
Scott

[Chazza]

It is possible to drive a 2A without using the clutch and achieve noiseless changes; the clutch is only needed when you stop for first and of course reverse.

Throttle off when you feel the need to change up, gently ease the gearstick into neutral and with light finger pressure hold it against the next gear detent - it will slip into gear when it wants to do.

 For changing down; adopt a suitable speed, ease it into neutral, blip the throttle to increase the engine revs whilst maintaining light pressure on the stick, wait for it to go into gear.

For this to work well the selector rods need to be clean and slide easily,

Cheers Charlie

[Mick]

Thanks boys,

Much appreciated. I'm looking forward to getting into the repair - it's great having you guys there for support.

Mick

[Young Eric]

If brake fluid was dripping onto brake pedal then I would suspect brake master cyl, but you say it dripped onto clutch pedal,  I would blame the clutch master cyl.

[FFRMAN]

Ok I was thinking brake master cylinder, if it is the cutch master basically same process.

Eric, brake and clutch share the same reservour in Mick's 2A

Cheers

[Chazza]

Eric, brake and clutch share the same reservour in Mick's 2A

Cheers

In that case don't drive it until the leak has been fixed - no brakes equals horrible accident waiting to happen!

Cheers Charlie

[FFRMAN]

Eric, brake and clutch share the same reservour in Mick's 2A

Cheers

In that case don't drive it until the leak has been fixed - no brakes equals horrible accident waiting to happen!

Cheers Charlie

Whilst the clutch and brake share the same reservior (standard 2 and 2A type) it is compartmentalised from about 1/4 inch below top so if it was clutch leaking break (centre compartment from memory) would drop to top lip of centre compartment then hold that level.

I'd fix it as it's onlyabout a 2 hour job, then it's done

cheers
Scott