Perentie jumping out of gear

[AlexR]

Was driving my 110 this evening and twice it jumped out of gear. The first time I backed out of the carport, stopped, selected 1st, let out the clutch then "clunk", no go. 1st was still engaged after this so then I thought it must have been something with the transfer case so I selected low range and 1st and it was all go again, reselected hi range and 1st then we were all good there. Both incidences occurred when taking off on a slight incline.

If anyone can shed some light on the situation it would be greatly appreciated.

Also how does the hi/lo leaver work? I can't seem to find a neutral in between, and do you need to pull out the 4wd knob for hi and lo or is lo automatically 4wd like the series 3?

[Diana Alan]

On the button, the perentie is always in 4WD, what the button does is lock the centre differential so that drive to front and rear are the same.  Just like in the series when it's in 4WD.

There should be a point mid way between Hi and low when it's in neutral but it may not have much of a click, just no drive.

[AlexR]

Thanks for your reply Diana, so do I need to pull the knob out when I want to engage 4wd?

[Diana Alan]

Yes but only if you actually have wheels slipping (or about to traverse something where they will slip) or you are lifting wheels off the ground.  As I said the Perentie is constant 4WD with 3 differentials.  The term we usually use is engaging the Centre Diff Lock (CDL) which makes it the same as pressing the yellow button in older Landies.

Remember unlike the yellow button models, the CDL is not engaged in low range.  To disengage push the button down and the light should go out, but you may have to stop and reverse up a little till the light goes out.

[isuzutoo-eh]

You may find that the high/low lever pushes against the seatbox or whatever it is mounted through, which means that high range doesn't quite engage fully. My civvy 110 is like this-same gearbox/transfer. When changing from low to high range I have to change while slowly moving to get it to engage properly and not slip in to neutral with a very alarming bang when the throttle is opened.
 From what I gather the lever is splined or something and can be moved a notch to give clearance in both high and low, but I haven't gotten around to fixing mine.

[Ellard]

Hi there

I haven't yet found a neutral position in my 110 between high & low range..........

The only trouble I have had with mine is the handbrake drum brake pads sometimes catching while reversing, pulled it all apart and at one stage the brake drum rear seal must have been leaking and the pads were soaked in oil - cleaned them with brake cleaners and now all good.

I will admit its no racing gear box and quite stiff when changing/select gears - I put this down to the vehicle has only done 80,000km

I hope this helps

Wayne

Wayne

[isuzutoo-eh]

There must be a neutral somewhere, or otherwise you couldn't use the PTO winch as a static anchor!

[AlexR]

Thanks for the replies guys,

Whatever the drama was it seems to have sorted itself out, hi probably  just wasn't engaging properly because the vehicle has been sitting for a while and things were a little seized up.

Re neutral, I have found neutral in mine, there is only a slight gap and the lever has to go nearly all the way forward before you can feel the click ( if going from hi to low )

Cheers Alex

[Ellard]

I have found neutral in mine, there is only a slight gap and the lever has to go nearly all the way forward before you can feel the click ( if going from hi to low )

Thanks - and you are right there is not a lot between low & high

[AlexR]

No worries

[mark2]

Hi there

I haven't yet found a neutral position in my 110 between high & low range..........

The only trouble I have had with mine is the handbrake drum brake pads sometimes catching while reversing, pulled it all apart and at one stage the brake drum rear seal must have been leaking and the pads were soaked in oil - cleaned them with brake cleaners and now all good.

I will admit its no racing gear box and quite stiff when changing/select gears - I put this down to the vehicle has only done 80,000km

I hope this helps

Wayne

Wayne

Hi Wayne
I recommend changing the gearbox oil to Castrol VMX80 for a smoother change.   The army uses engine oil (OMD-115) for simplicity/commonality however VMX80 is  better,  being a purpose designed transmission lubricant.   

[Phoenix]

There is another reason for the use of engine oil in the gearbox, it does no harm to it.

Noted an advice on using Transmission oils in LT95A Gearboxes.

Remembering that this gearbox is a fairly old design, well before the advent of synthetic oils.  Modern Transmission oils will strip the yellow coating from the thrust washers, which will obviously result in excessive endfloat, and gearbox problems thereafter!  So for longevity of gearbox, stick with the recommended oils

[Diana Alan]

Now I could be wrong but you shouldn't be using transmission oils in the LT95 boxes simply because they utilise fine radial needle roller bearings and general transmission oil is too viscous.

You can run the standard engine oil or ATF, at least that is what was recommended for the LT95 in 4 speed Range Rovers when I had them < 2 years old in 1981.

[glbest]

have gear box overhaul
spring is us had same pronlem with hilux part is cheap but takes time to remove gearbox

[mark2]

Now I could be wrong but you shouldn't be using transmission oils in the LT95 boxes simply because they utilise fine radial needle roller bearings and general transmission oil is too viscous.

You can run the standard engine oil or ATF, at least that is what was recommended for the LT95 in 4 speed Range Rovers when I had them < 2 years old in 1981.

Dedicated transmission oils like VMX80 were not around when the LT95 was designed.   These are not 'gear' oils like what we put in the diffs or swivels.  VMX80 is closer in viscosity to ATF, certainly less than 15/40W engine oil.    This can be confusing as engine and gear  oils  use different viscosity scales.   Engine oil will not hurt an LT95 but it will perform better with a purpose designed transmission oil, particularly for cold shifts and potentially last longer.     The army specifies OMD115 (engine oil) for interchangebility, not because it is the best.   Landrover specified engine oil because there was no better alternative at the time.

I'm not sure what the reference to  'yellow' material on thrust washers means.   Civilian LT95 transfer cases use bronze thrust washers (army ones use taper roller bearings with no bronze thrust washers) which could potentially be attacked by some GL5 (hypoid rated) gear oils.    A transmission oil such as VMX80 is GL4 rated and will not attack bronze.