Author Topic: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp  (Read 9222 times)

Offline DennisM

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Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« on: June 21, 2013, 07:00:55 PM »
Well I started this job this morning at around 0900hrs, Op 'Rubic's Cube' was in full swing when 112-501 wouldn't start, probably because it was cold n damp, jump start off 110-850 and eventually it started (I most likely flooded it as well), but with the jump start I managed to do something to the electrical system in 110-850, it's generator won't charge now?? ???, anyway can't be bothered with that ATM, on with Op 'Rubic's Cube, all vehicle movements were completed at around 1030hrs  :P :-[, finally 172-562 was in place.
I started taking the LHS floor out then RHS, with those out of the way, I removed the underseat box and the 3 x 2BA csk screws etc that hold the center underseat box cover insitu,, undid fuel tap from seatbox floor, lifted out the trans/tunnel.
Gee there are some bolts holding the seat box in, lucky for me I only needed to un nip them and they all came undone using my fingers  ;D, the good wife was pressed into service and within a minute or two the seatbox was out and in the back of 172-562
 
Back under the vehicle undo the front prop/shaft, then loosen the front nuts of the rear prop/shaft leaving one to support the shaft while the rear nuts/bolts are removed, then remove shaft.
Undo handbrake assembly, remove hand brake all together, remove back gearbox bolts from the mounts, drop oils from both G/box & T/case, while that is happening knock the gearbox into gear, remove split pin from rear output shaft, loosen the nut and remove it, remove T/case rear cover, and remove the output gear, I have the proper Land Rover service tool to do the job

looking around the outside of the T/case there are a number of nuts n bolts to be removed, then undo the whole handbrake drum, and backing plate assembly, next undo the nut that holds the intermeadiate shaft insitu, remove fuel  lines etc out of harms way.
Remove all the nuts etc and take off the T/case sump, watch for the little bit of oil that is always trapped there, slide the intermeadiate shaft out while supporting the intermeadiate gear, lower it down, careful not to tilt it sideways and drop the bearings in the dirt/concrete, remove thrust washers, this then gives access to 3 more nuts that hold the G/box to the T/case, break the seal between the two lift out the T/case.
Undo all the nuts around the periphery of the bell housing, remove clutch slave cyl, jack up engine under the sump with a block of wood under the sump, then when you have approx 25mm under clutch housing place a small block of wood in that space, grab the G/box output shaft, give it a bloody good wiggle sideways and the box should come away with ease, eventually leaving you with a space like this

yes I know you can remove T/case without removing the whole floor sub assembly but I'm way too old and stuffed to be doing it that way LOL :(.
Tomorrow I will remove what I need from the G/box and put it on the donor box, slip the clutch pressure plate off and check the surface of the driven plate and flywheel, if all OK, I will start and re-assemble it tomorrow afternoon, all of the above took approx 6 hours working by myself, and in between time helping the good wife with a few chores about the house ;), anyway that was my day, cheers Dennis :)
ps here is the issue that I have to resolve with 110-850 post in AULRO
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/176788-im-lost-one.html
« Last Edit: June 21, 2013, 07:16:22 PM by DennisM »

Offline DennisM

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2013, 06:17:51 PM »
Busy day today, I have swapped out what I needed and put the gearbox back together, it's ready to go in.  removed the clutch pressure plate etc there was a small smear of oil, methinks I might have applied just a whisker too much when I replace the oil lite bearing (spigot bush), a quick clean with BrakeKleen and blow off with compressed air, a quick scuff over the flywheel and pressure plate with my orbital sander, all nice n clean and back together, fitted the 4 guide studs to help align the gearbox

hopefully I will have most of it back together tomorrow, cheers Dennis :)
ps the electrical issue with 110-850, well all I did to it today was pull bonnet right back, took cover off fuse box, fuse was OK I just moved fuse, connected battery, Ign light on, start engine Amp meter showing 20+ at a fast idle, ???? who knows, maybe it was just too damp n cold ::),,.

Offline master chief

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2013, 10:52:23 AM »
Nice work Dennis,

Makes the job a lot easier when everything is not covered in crud!.

Regards
Justin.
2A Workshop 172-559 Tasman Warrior

Offline DennisM

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2013, 07:28:01 PM »
Spot on Justin, it's much nicer to work on a vehicle that isn't dropping crud into your eyes, you get that when dismantling a vehicle for the first time LOL.
Today has been a mixed bag, what with the weather, birthday for one of the G/kid's, very old Pomeranian needing lots of TLC, me forgetting to put a part in, and have to take G/box apart again LOL :o ::) :-[, and with my arthritis I had to resort to this method of securing the reverse selector keep

gee that's showing how weak n frail I'm getting :( :-[, anyway affter a few setbacks I managed to get it slung into position

now bolted securely into place. Tomorrow after work I will delve into my 'Emporium' and see if I have a front output seal, I did notice a weep of oil hanging about, hopefully the rain that's forecast will not eventuate, anyway cheers Dennis :)

Offline DennisM

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2013, 04:16:50 PM »
Well here we are 5 daze down the track ??? and still not completed :-[, well you can only do so much what with work n only about 90 minutes of usable daylight, I can remember not so long ago I would still be at it well after dark, summer n winter ::), anyway I did delve into my emporium and not only did I have an output seal, I have 6 of them LOL, that was fitted where it needed to be, I rolled out my engine lifting crane and refitted the T/case.
The next afternoon I refitted the intermediate gears etc and the output gear from the G/box, tightened it all up, jack under sump with a block of soft wood, lift engine etc remove small block from under the flywheel cover, lower it all down onto the mounts, fit 4 x 3/8"UNF bolts etc tighten up.
Refit the T/case sump with new gasket, apply some PTFE tape to T/case sump plug (to stop oil wicking along thread) tighten same, fit speedo cable to housing x 3 2BA bolts, refit handbrake drum etc, reconnect the handbrake, fit all split pins etc, I always allow approx 12<>18 hours for gasket cement etc to go off before adding oils (that's just me, you please yourself)
This morning I added oils to both T/case & G/box (yes I remember 110-850 T/case with no oil) here is an image just in case you hadn't seen it

total write off

anyway 172-562 has all OILS where it has to be LOL.
The rain has played havoc (who ordered it anyway????), as we all know 109Wksp's have a awful lot of canvas, I personally do not like getting it wet!!!, so it has been moved by pushing it back n forth between showers etc.
Today has been reasonably productive, weather wise this morning it was cloudy, but the BOM showed a huge rain mass off the Nth coast moving Sth towards me %$#@(*&^ anyway I managed to get it all back together without getting it wet

I did run the gearbox through the gears without prop/shafts fitted, all sounded OK, but then the heavens opened up, so I continued refitting the seatbox, floor, seats etc

 The rain has continued through the afternoon, so 172-562 has not left the carport. I did want to test drive it around the block and then do "Op Rubic's Cube' moving 7 vehicles to put 'Gladys' back where she sleeps in between jobs, well that's gonna have to wait until ??maybe tomorrow, if the weather clears long enough to do all the vehicle movements, ah the joys of owning more than 1 Land Rover ??? :P rain rain go away to where it is needed (what I would like to say is ***s off) LOL anyway cheers Dennis
« Last Edit: June 28, 2013, 04:18:42 PM by DennisM »

Offline DennisM

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2013, 04:50:04 PM »
Ross, don't worry about it, up early as usual 0530hrs, a quick check of the BOM site, yehaa a break in the rain, no rain around for at least 60-80klms around home, as soon as it's light around 0630hrs I will make my move and swing 'Op Rubic's Cube' into action.
First vehicle off the mark is my 110, then swmbo's car, connect battery to 109Wksp, hit starter and drive off, I took it for a quick run around 2.5k's G/box sounds good, quiet in 1st/reverse, all other gears OK as well.
Next untarp and fire up 112-501 and move it out of the way, next 110-850 ditto, then 112-587 ditto, then 113-372 ditto, and last but not least 112-655 shh gunbuggy, a light sprinkle of rain spins me into a panic, get that Wksp truck back into the garage. This task usually requires 2 persons but swmbo was still in bed ::) well it was just after 0650hrs, anyway I managed to get it into place and all other vehicles back into place and tarped up before the sprinkles turned into rain, now to make room for the next project (excluding the Series 1) anyway cheers Dennis :)

Offline juddy

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2013, 07:36:10 PM »
Well I started this job this morning at around 0900hrs, Op 'Rubic's Cube' was in full swing when 112-501 wouldn't start, probably because it was cold n damp, jump start off 110-850 and eventually it started (I most likely flooded it as well), but with the jump start I managed to do something to the electrical system in 110-850, it's generator won't charge now?? ???, anyway can't be bothered with that ATM, on with Op 'Rubic's Cube, all vehicle movements were completed at around 1030hrs  :P :-[, finally 172-562 was in place.
I started taking the LHS floor out then RHS, with those out of the way, I removed the underseat box and the 3 x 2BA csk screws etc that hold the center underseat box cover insitu,, undid fuel tap from seatbox floor, lifted out the trans/tunnel.
Gee there are some bolts holding the seat box in, lucky for me I only needed to un nip them and they all came undone using my fingers  ;D, the good wife was pressed into service and within a minute or two the seatbox was out and in the back of 172-562
 
Back under the vehicle undo the front prop/shaft, then loosen the front nuts of the rear prop/shaft leaving one to support the shaft while the rear nuts/bolts are removed, then remove shaft.
Undo handbrake assembly, remove hand brake all together, remove back gearbox bolts from the mounts, drop oils from both G/box & T/case, while that is happening knock the gearbox into gear, remove split pin from rear output shaft, loosen the nut and remove it, remove T/case rear cover, and remove the output gear, I have the proper Land Rover service tool to do the job

looking around the outside of the T/case there are a number of nuts n bolts to be removed, then undo the whole handbrake drum, and backing plate assembly, next undo the nut that holds the intermeadiate shaft insitu, remove fuel  lines etc out of harms way.
Remove all the nuts etc and take off the T/case sump, watch for the little bit of oil that is always trapped there, slide the intermeadiate shaft out while supporting the intermeadiate gear, lower it down, careful not to tilt it sideways and drop the bearings in the dirt/concrete, remove thrust washers, this then gives access to 3 more nuts that hold the G/box to the T/case, break the seal between the two lift out the T/case.
Undo all the nuts around the periphery of the bell housing, remove clutch slave cyl, jack up engine under the sump with a block of wood under the sump, then when you have approx 25mm under clutch housing place a small block of wood in that space, grab the G/box output shaft, give it a bloody good wiggle sideways and the box should come away with ease, eventually leaving you with a space like this

yes I know you can remove T/case without removing the whole floor sub assembly but I'm way too old and stuffed to be doing it that way LOL :(.
Tomorrow I will remove what I need from the G/box and put it on the donor box, slip the clutch pressure plate off and check the surface of the driven plate and flywheel, if all OK, I will start and re-assemble it tomorrow afternoon, all of the above took approx 6 hours working by myself, and in between time helping the good wife with a few chores about the house ;), anyway that was my day, cheers Dennis :)
ps here is the issue that I have to resolve with 110-850 post in AULRO
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/176788-im-lost-one.html
[/quote

Looking at your gear box, you dont have a dip stick on it? was this only on certain models?
1991 110 Truck Surveillance (RFSV), Winch MC2 *51-656*
2004 Truck, Carryall, Lightweight, Modified Military Special, With Winch, MC2/3 205-301, Haulmark PT1-1.2 *205090* No5 Trailer

Images © 2008-2017 J Burton

Offline FFRMAN

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2013, 07:37:05 PM »
Hi Dennis,

"now to make room for the next project (excluding the Series 1) '

did you get the series 1?

cheers
Scott
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Offline DennisM

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2013, 08:16:20 PM »
Yes Scott I did, I don't have it at home as yet, but it's fully paid for, my mate has allowed me to keep it there until I make a carport extension to at least keep the rain off it  ;), you have been here so you will know just how tight it is here for space  :( anyway I have started a thread within AULRO in the Series 1 section, it will be a bit slow to start with. I collected a few loose items today, my 110 has quite a bit of S1 stuff in it, it's raining here ATM and I just can't be bothered with getting too wet, I must be getting old  :-[, anyway mate cheers for now Dennis :)
Juddy, Series 1 & 2 had the gearbox dipstick, the Series 2A didn't have them, cheers,,.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2013, 08:21:55 PM by DennisM »

Offline FFRMAN

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2013, 08:41:59 PM »
Yes Scott I did, I don't have it at home as yet, but it's fully paid for, my mate has allowed me to keep it there until I make a carport extension to at least keep the rain off it  ;), you have been here so you will know just how tight it is here for space  :( anyway I have started a thread within AULRO in the Series 1 section, it will be a bit slow to start with. I collected a few loose items today, my 110 has quite a bit of S1 stuff in it, it's raining here ATM and I just can't be bothered with getting too wet, I must be getting old  :-[, anyway mate cheers for now Dennis :)
Juddy, Series 1 & 2 had the gearbox dipstick, the Series 2A didn't have them, cheers,,.

Great news, I'll jump over to AULRO and have a look

Can you send some rain down here, just had 7 frosts in a row, nice days but bloody cold mornings!
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline juddy

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Re: Changing gearbox in 109Wksp
« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2013, 08:43:22 PM »
Yes Scott I did, I don't have it at home as yet, but it's fully paid for, my mate has allowed me to keep it there until I make a carport extension to at least keep the rain off it  ;), you have been here so you will know just how tight it is here for space  :( anyway I have started a thread within AULRO in the Series 1 section, it will be a bit slow to start with. I collected a few loose items today, my 110 has quite a bit of S1 stuff in it, it's raining here ATM and I just can't be bothered with getting too wet, I must be getting old  :-[, anyway mate cheers for now Dennis :)
Juddy, Series 1 & 2 had the gearbox dipstick, the Series 2A didn't have them, cheers,,.

Thanks Dennis.

So my 2a must have a series 1/2 gear box then?
1991 110 Truck Surveillance (RFSV), Winch MC2 *51-656*
2004 Truck, Carryall, Lightweight, Modified Military Special, With Winch, MC2/3 205-301, Haulmark PT1-1.2 *205090* No5 Trailer

Images © 2008-2017 J Burton