Hello Everyone, (newbie with a landy adiction)

[R704]

Greetings everyone,
I'm Nick, 24 in the Yarra Valley Vic and I have an adiction to Landrovers 

Currently drivind a '94 Disco Tdi manual with a dead turbo
Waiting to replace head gaskets on a '97 Disco 3.9 auto - the missus' car
Using a '94 Disco 3.9 auto around the farm
With a '93 disco waiting for a transmission transplant in the paddock

But besides that about 10 months ago I bought a '77 3 Series off eBay, which is currently undergoing a newbie resto.

Records off here :
28-961    109    11/05/1977    -    Series 3    6028    Truck, Utility, 3/4 Ton, GS, Cargo    94120222C    94319347C    37765

Work done so far:
New brake cylinder, booster and wheel cylinders.
New carby diaphram
New thermostat
Wheels pinched off every other landy while i get the rims sandblasted and powder coated
Currently tracing a few wiring faults
Tossing up if i need to replace the rear chassis member due to rust
New headlights

Trying to source 2  black out lights for the front
Tools for the bonnet/guards

As purchased

Work underway

[THE BOOGER]

G,day and welcome to the forum lloks like a good project 

If your looking for parts put an add in parts wanted here but also keep an eye on ebay as both blackout lights and tool holders do come up. The lights can be reasonable but the holders can cause wallet shock so look around
And keep the pics coming during the rebuild

[Carzee]

 
Welcome Nick, looks like a great shed you have for your project. Tops. The Landy has a towball up front too. Interesting.

Hope it goes well re the crossmember..

[Ellard]

Hi there & welcome Nick

I have to agree nice looking shed - and very straight S3.

Looking forwards to your input & restoration

Wayne

[R704]

Thanks for the welcome guys,

Booger, to clarify, i believe everything is there on the guards and bonnet as far as mount (except spare wheel clamp), I'm more after the actual tools.

Carzee and Ellard,
Thanks, its dads old carpet warehouse/ workroom 15 by 20 meters double bricked. currently housing 3 cars and a boat, plus heaps of miscellaneous crap and half a workshop.

I'm lucky with the body as the only problems I've found is the drivers door hanging crooked due to being over opened and the hinge buckling in a bit and the front top corner of the drivers guard being dented, but once the bog was out it was a easy job beating it out.

There appear to be numerous little holes over the headlights, would I be right in guessing TAC Plate mounts? (going by some pics)

In a way I'm blessed by having a Landy expert 15 minutes from the shed in Anthony at British 4WD imports Montrose, He's been a Great help in the project thus far, dispensing his knowledge to a complete novice without much hesitation at all

Hope to get more done soon,

Nick

[THE BOOGER]

That's easier some of the tools can still be bought new I believe they are cyclone brand the shovel with the original wooden t handle is a little bit harder but can be found at swap meets etc there is a shovel that fits but has a plastic d handle

[aussiegregmac]

What I find unusual is the hardtop over canvas sides.  Probably done previous to keep the rain out
Happy re-furbishing.

[Kaneya]

Greetings Nick, this lot will do your head in with the amount of info they gorge up. It's mind boggling what snippets of info they can give you, down to thread sizes, part numbers etc.

I know of a few wooden shovels with T handles at Dookie Emporium in North East Vic, if your after that era.

Have fun with your project.

By the way these sickos like heaps of rebuild photos......some of the most disturbed people I've met.
 

Cheers Brad

[FFRMAN]

Hey Brad, now you have reach 100 post you do realise you are well and truly in the club, so you were actually talking about yourself, you sicko! Lol cheers scott

Ps, well done on the purchase Nick, any question just ask, people will pop up and answer every question you can throw at us.

Regards

[The ho hars]

Welcome to you Nick

Nice looking series III there.  Interesting, the hard roof and canvas sides, as stated previously, I doubt it would keep the rain out though, it is a series Landy

Mrs hh

[R704]

Hi Everyone.
Thanks for the welcome's, leads and tips.

Quick question, to remove the rear tub/ute tray am I right in assuming I only need to remove the row of bolts behind the seats and the row on the rear cross member?

Are there any tips for removing the tray? or just tie it to a post and drive off?

I'm seriously looking into replacing the rear cross member and at this stage possibly fitting a Hayman Reece style towbar receiver at the same time.  Your thoughts guys?

[Uncle Ho]

G'day R704
While you are rebuilding it I would suggest that you fit a relay to the headlights,as the power for them goes from the switch to the dipper and then to the lights, which gives quite a voltage drop,this was a problem with all Lucas equipt vehicles of the 60's through to 80's  I have used the "New-Era" double fused relay on both my Range Rover Classic and on my Series 2a GS,it takes the current load (heat) away from the plastic switch assembly, they are Aust made and available at most REPCO stores, about $40 from memory well worth the $$

cheers

[Uncle Ho]

Sorry about the bold, but the computer has gone Ape------t

[Phoenix]

Actually the army fitted relays to the series 3 land rovers, so it should already have one.

[South65pac]

Yes pretty much take the bolts off behind the seats, and the ones at the sides of the seat base too.  Dont forget the fuel filler (disconnect at the tank) and the small brackets which strengthen the tubs edges. 
Oh and the wiring.... to the lights etc.
oh and the tail gate has to come off too (as it is pinned to the chassis)

Easy way I have found to take the tub off (on my own) is lift it up and place/slide a couple of 4x2's underneath it passing through each side horizontally, then you can slowly wriggle the tub backwards over the rear mounts without damaging  the tub.... Once you get it to tip over the rear then you can rest it vertically on some blocks of timber (so you don't wreck the tail lights) and then you just need a shop trolley to wheel it out the way .

If you are replacing that x- member you need to be an accomplished welder as it is quite a task.  I would look at a Defender one as it is pretty close to the 'look' of a series one if you were replacing it.  Otherwise I would just repair the one you have.

Ian

Hi Everyone.
Thanks for the welcome's, leads and tips.

Quick question, to remove the rear tub/ute tray am I right in assuming I only need to remove the row of bolts behind the seats and the row on the rear cross member?

Are there any tips for removing the tray? or just tie it to a post and drive off?

I'm seriously looking into replacing the rear cross member and at this stage possibly fitting a Hayman Reece style towbar receiver at the same time.  Your thoughts guys?