Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
REMLR Member Sheds => REMLR Member Sheds => Topic started by: SitRepNam on March 27, 2016, 09:10:21 AM
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After seriously looking for a few days and not months of dreaming i finally found the beauty i was looking for. An Ex Army Vietnam era Landrover. I learnt i wanted a 2a which was the correct period for Vietnam. The visible difference being the inbound front headlights.
After seeing many on gumtree with heaps of coolangatta gold and grass covered chassis i never thought i would find a gem to resotre, nor milspec, nor original working motor as many had conversion motors a popular one being the holden 202 straight 6.
Low and behold, just up road from me a seller had one in a paddock for the last 4 years. Many seem to have found life as a farm truck after exiting the military. The vehicle i had found was a genuine ex army 1969 series 2a lwb 109 GS landrover with original motor and a rebuilt box n' transfer. The box however had not been put back in the vehicle after the seller going through a divorce, his project came to a halt. He had also rebuilt and recovered the seats in od canvas and the landy came with heaps of spares, some new some old.
6 spare wheels with 4 from a 110 (apparently wider offset) 2 spares and 4 on the truck with 90's high mile mil tread 85% . The ute back was full of all the spares and unfortunately for some silly reason the spare screen was layed on the bottom with everything stacked on top. Was just sad to see the glass smashed due to a lack of care. However seeing the price of new parts and glass etc , its not like the glass panels are hard to get nor expensive.
The floor was all out, the motor turned by hand every now and then (said the seller) it wasnt seized.
So i begun reinstalling the box with transfer attached (easiest i have ever done being able to slide in from above. No more bench press a gear box from your chest like my HQ holden). I stood in the tunnel while a mate passed it through the door. Too easy. I begun to go through the boxes of parts hoping all the nuts bolts and washers where still there. Jars and containers revealed 98% of all needed.
A trip to supercheap and $130 later i serviced the Landy with gearbox and transfer oil, engine oil (spares included 2 new oil filters) a new set of ngk plugs and a quick inspection and overhaul of the breather caps. The rocker cover breather had rusted away its mesh inside. A good clean and some steel wool did the job. The airfilter was clean and i was told it nows runs a small holden carby instead of the landy unit. The fuel tanks were drained and washed out with some new fuel, the lines had wasp nest clogging them. The old rubber fuel lines had perished along with the fuel tank filler hoses. One ive managed to cut of the bad end and refit the passenger side needs replacement. I cleaned out clutch reservoir and bled the line, again the easiest ive ever done having a bung hole to stick the spanner in next to the pedal.
I flushed the coolant out of the rad and replaced with water till i fired it up and gave it a cycle to flush out the remaining fluid. All ready to go with the battery out of the ski boat, she came to life via feeding 'start ya bastard' and fuel down its throat also down the fuel line back to the filter to get the lines primed.
Wow ! She fired up and idled away perfectly. A little smoky but i remembered i had topped up the tank after flushing with 50:1 boat fuel. Probably a good thing for the dry engine.
Next i added drained and added coolant and had to resolder the overflow tube back to the radiator top. No leaks. She runs good and with no leaks. Next i couldnt wait to drop it in gear and she if she drives. The clutch a bit rusty i think along with the brake drums she shuddered and nudged its self along my front yard. A quick trip down the back yard it all begun to free up included the frozen suspension.
Rust on this truck is only surface with one door bottom half gone and a pen tip size hole just below the passenger door lower hinge on the pillar. So nothing really. All this truck needs is a clean and paint.
The 2a came with 4ltrs of od correct paint , my son and i armed with a pressure cleaner each begun to blast the old layers of paint away back to the original army od and some areas back to bare metal. And i thought i would be paint stripping and sanding. Cab will have to come off one day to clean and paint the chassis but for now, a few cans of inox had stopped the dry surface cancer. So for now i will just be painting the top until more time and a rotating chasis stand is available.
Rats had made home over the years along with wasp nests so a good clean with disinfectant was in order. Scrubbed the seats and hey presto! The landy is almost ready for rego. The body has been fitted with a hard single civi cab, i was planning to remove and restore back to canvas roof full lenght. I would also like to put bench seats in the rear for carrying more passengers but dont know the legalities as of yet.
I did however find a raeme vehicle in convoy in Nam with a hard single cabin top with white roof. Im guessing they retained a white roof for heat reflection reasons seen on full panel van roofs in Nam. So for now the hard cab is staying until money permits the normal canvas roof.
I have not been able to find the ARN but engine and chassie numbers on the remlr.com site is not showing this vehicle went to nam. Either side of my munbers went though.
Through remlr.com helping me identify white rear stonecutters, earth wing nut above one, and white diff center on the rear and bumpers.
Getting used to driving manual smoothly again, realizing quickly that 1st doest like revs before 2nd change. Also 1st wines of its head.
Cant wait to get it rego'd and out on the open road although i read military had a big dash sticker stating 40-45mph max. Other forums suggest no more than 80-90kph.
So much more to learn, loving the landrover engineering and simplicity and military options. Will post up pics asap.
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(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/1458616610527.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1458616610527.jpg.html)
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A great write up and pics :)
Cheers,
Pete
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If anyone can help me find my landys ARN that would be awesome thank you.
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176635
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Thank you dodgeguy, i didnt even notice you had posted the arn before my last pic.
Some more pressure cleaning then hand sanding with 240wet n dry smoothed over one side. The front guard has some slight dents, thinking about it now, im going to bog out before paint. It will be a good lesson for my son in panel work. The rest of the sanding went too easy. As ive said before and i can see i will repeat myself, this is the easiest car i have ever rubbed back before paint. Being a brick on wheels i guess makes the flat sides with one curve easy work.
Lol.
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Showing some pictures of the 3 layers of different colour paint, the darkest being the original od. The 4ltrs of paint that came with it is the correct darker shade as per original that i can tell. The use by date? I'll take a gamble and use it.
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A photo of the interior and engine bay. I would like to get the original air cleaner and snorkle for it.
My son, really keen to see the map light working, we decided last night to pull the globe to see if it was blown. Globe good, checked fuses, a little hard with no references on the fuse cover, none blown. We decided to take off the wiper motor cover with map light and test. Wow 12v wiring dream. The simplicity (here i go again). Panel with switch testing good we decided to check behind the instrument cluster. The previous owner , after installing the hard top with a roof console/sterio/light had cut the + wire to the map light. Easy quick fix. Now the only thing to get working is the blackout switch
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Painted one side to see how it would lay up and if there was any reaction with the paint, went on really good. So far so happy. A few scratches and small dents etc, but its a 69 army truck not a street machine, so im not worried. Main thing is that its back to original colour and has a good sealed coat on the truck. Immaculate condition is not a priority for my 2 week resto goal. When its dissasembled and built ground up in years to come, i will worry about little imperfections then.
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Well I'm surprised that the paint wasn't all lumpy/jellified, you are very lucky with that, cheers Dennis
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Little gluggy on the bottom like all paint tins that have sat a while, a good stir with my biggest flat head screw driver (side to side raises the paint from the bottom, not circle motion) the paint was looking good. I even decided to go for a straight mix, no thinning. Maybe it was my gun, maybe i had it set just right, or the weather was good, but it went on the best i have ever sprayed before. Not one run, went on almost dry with no splatter or anything. No mist in the air, if i wasnt wearing a mask my nostrils wouldn't of had one bit of paint up them. I did have my gun set for a narrow fan and not alot of paint flow, with only 150mm i coated the side 4 times over. I dont know why but so far everything is going so good for me on this truck. I think i have more than luck on my side with this one.
Total spent so far :-
Hire trailer $70
Oils , fluids and spark plugs $130.
My friends said spend 2grand on it and it will be awesome. More like $500 total expenses ! Lol.
I would like to put the side facing 2 person rear bench seats in the back either side. Im not sure on the legalities of carrying passengers like this ? and if belts are required ?
Did these troop seats have a frame? Or just foam and vinyl covered plyboard? Also how were they attached ? If im not legally allowed to have it registered for 7 seats and only 3 , then im not bothering putting them in the back. Does anyone have experience with this?
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Hi, thanks for posting all the info, great to read.
The rear "troop" seats a are frames bolted at the rear base and hooked up under the capping on the tube for the back section, the base then folds up. the seat was just foam covered with green vinyl.
Unfortunately you will need engineers certificate to get people to legally sit in the back - even then it is a hell of a safety risk.
regards
Scott
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Thanks Scott,
I hope to contribute what i can to this great site you guys have here.
If you know of any members build threads that would be of help for my build , please shoot me a link so that i can read up and learn more and enjoy others threads/ posts. Some i have read so far, other areas of remlr.com are taking up all my research time.
The seats sound like a no go, however i do know a good engineering signatory, and a place that installs belts and seats for rms approvals. Ill give them a ring and ask their advice also.
Too right about being dangerous. But with 3mm alloy door skins with no intrusion bars, a steering wheel that is already kissing my chin, no head rests, lack of overhead protection in a rollover and surrounded by metal in the cabin, i think safety went out the window. Lol.
I do agree though about the dangers of sitting sideways and it would be only for parades and the odd joy ride or two.
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Howdy
I'm on my phone so I can't get a link easy but if you look for DennisM on this site or Dinty on the old REMLR site which is archived on AULRO. He is the guru of restoring ex army Land Rovers.
Cheers
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Thank you FFRman . After some phone calls rear seats will be easy done , does anyone have 2 or 4 to sell ?
Also wanting to replace rear bumpers for jerrycan holders if anyone has a pair ?
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After much paper work and Rms not knowing how to do thier job, i got the truck registered on conditional club rego.
The main reason for the 109 GS is for public display and reenactment so club rego seems the sensible way to go.
Some costs involved were as follows :-
● Join a historic car club registered with Rms $80 pa.
●Hand written pink slip as the club is under 2yrs old $38.
●Rms club rego with number plate issue and green
slip supplied by the Rms $94
Total $212
I purchased a new set of leases all round and a fuel tank filler hose that had perished. All 4x4 spares @ Cardiff only stocks the RHS hose, not sure where im going to find the LHS one.
After the heavy brake test by the authorised inspection station (pink slip) the front drivers side wheel decided to jam up dragging rhe brake. When i got home i pulled of the drum, lucky someone had put anti seize on the 3 retaining screws it then came off easy with a bit of bashing. Close inspection revealed the brake wheel cylinders although looking new had started to size up.
I removed them to find dirty fluid and corrosion. I wish they would invent a brake fluid that didn't attract moisture. After sitting idle for so long, it has buggered the cyclinders. No taking any risks, today i will be ordering new sets all round and rebleed the entire system. I was predicting this but wasnt in a hurry to play brake mechanic.
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Rain has put painting on standby, however i have rubbed back the bonnet ready to go. Never have i removed a bonnet from a car via one split pin.
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Take all your wheel cylinders and have them stainless steel sleeved, yes it's a tad expensive but worth it in the long run, cheers DEnnis
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HI, you can't buy new passenger side fuel filler hoses, easiest way is to buy a drivers side one, cut it in half, insert a sleeve, spin the top 180 degrees, clamp it all up. I had a vehicle where this was done as an army mod - got a photo somewhere
cheers
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There's a mob in NZ that sells the LHS new. I've lost my contact details for them, but I bought a couple about 3 years ago.
Anyone else know of them ?
Pete
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Here's the thread with the email POC for the LHS fuel filler hose (thanks Greg Mac.)
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=2838.0
Cheers,
Pete
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Yep, contact those sheep chaser blokes by email and they'll give you a price plus postage to Oz,
then you can pay by credit card via email.
I sent my credit card numbers in two emails to combat those Cracker Hackers.
Greg Mac.
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Email sent thanks Pete.
A mate just told me his 3series landy has a brake booster standard. As the trucks are practically the same from what ive learnt so far, is it possible to fit a 3 booster in a 2a ? Has anyone done this before. I want to keep it all standard but a brake booster from a later model i can live with.
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The pedal box and booster were introduced in SIIA six cylinder models at suffix G (wide headlamp model).
Many of the late SIIA firewalls with the cable wipers will already have the cutout in the top of the footwell, although this is not a major problem to cut in.
The biggest issue is that the inner guard has a cut-away to allow room for the booster and master cylinder, once again this occurred at suffix g.
Dennis M did a similar conversion recently.
NB: prior to the booster on the pedal box, the six cylinder used a Clayton-Dewandre booster or a PBR VH44 in Australia. They were usually fitted in front of the drivers footwell in the space above the splash-guard and outer mudguard.
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Email sent thanks Pete.
A mate just told me his 3series landy has a brake booster standard. As the trucks are practically the same from what ive learnt so far, is it possible to fit a 3 booster in a 2a ? Has anyone done this before. I want to keep it all standard but a brake booster from a later model i can live with.
I can highly recomend the brake booster. I used one in my resto Ithink it was a PBR VH44. the are a very common unit used in holdens and fords. They can be remotely installed I placed mine under the front drivers side guard, the untrained eye wouldn't know it was there.
Cheers
Rod
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Top work ! Very nice indeed . One day i hope to do the same level of ground up resto. Thank you both for chiming in with the info and great pics. Definitely worth the work i think too.
For the moment, replacing the brake cyclinders has run into a minor set back. Ordered for the 2a 69 109 4 cyclinder 2.3 petrol the parts didnt fit. The brake cyclinders were different to mine. After sending some pics to the supplier he has informed me that someone has done a brake upgrade with the 6 cyclinder brakes and thats why they dont fit. So although i have to wait a bit longer to get the correct parts i guess its good to know that it has been upgraded.
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Rod, dont know how i missed your build in the shed. After seeing the quality and extensive work on the pics above, i immediately went through your build thread. Wow! This is exactly what i was looking for on remlr.com & or forum.
Straight away little things like the fire extinguisher bracket and position, a picture of the map light i couldnt find under my rear rail, and learning about the special coating to prevent rust as i was having trouble understanding why i couldnt find any undercoat on the Landy.
Im sure there is many more great builds and heaps of knowledge for me to read here. I just havent had time to look yet as my mind is in 100 places at once at the moment. My newly aquired Landy has put me back into 5hrs sleep mode.
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Sanded the SIIA today, masked it up and painted the entire truck minus the white roof with 3 coats of the protech camo green. This time i had the old tin shaked for 10 mins at the paint shop. The colour was much better, and has no gloss. Again straight mix without thinning. Clean up in turps. Removed the lenses and lights and rear surrounds, also the tacplate holders, front grill and number plates. Removed the tools on the guards and thier mounts. Very quick and easy car to strip with minmal parts before sanding.
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Coulnt help myself once i had the camo green going, hit the esky, the camp table, tent poles, tool box... hahaha. Think ive found my new favorite paint.
Looking good to meet the 2week resto deadline. Having the usual trouble bleeding the brakes. Installed two new front soft hoses and adjusted the brakes up to 1 click off, 3 bottles of dot 4 later and still a big airbubble somewhere. Thinking i will park on neibours steep inclined driveway to level the master and try again. Fail this into the shop to use a pump. Im over this bleeding nonsense. First drama with the vehicle so far. Im sure there is a quick way when in the bush ?
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Coming up well.
It's amazing what a coat of paint can do.
Your vehicle looks like its previous owner spent a bit of time and money on it, very neat wiring under the bonnet.
Great to see its getting a new lease of life, and back on the road.
I've used a simple pressure bleeder on the brakes in the past, that has done the trick for me.
Watch out when you start painting things green though, I can see a few things in your photos that you missed! 8)
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Only important things like wheels ! Haha. Run out of masking tape is my excuse ;) returning the chassie & inner guards back to green from black certainly made the difference in correcting colour restoration. Just got to paint them rims. Didnt like spraying over chipped paint in the guards and surface rust on the framework, but i have to draw the line somewhere for now. If i ended up stripping it, it would be a 2 yr resto not 2 weeks. Really want to remove the chassie and suspension though one day and clean and sand it all back to ensure the rust doesnt get the better of it. Places like the capped front rails are notorious i see for hidden rust. Sticking my finger inside feeling all the flaked off metal, these need to be killed asap before it gets too thin.
Couple more before and after pics from the respray.
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Put some red rats on the doors, and bought a cheap shovel and cut it down to suit the fender. Also had an attempt at making some tac plates, in memory of my cousin Ron that served in Vietnam with 86 tpt raasc.
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Top work ! Very nice indeed . One day i hope to do the same level of ground up resto. Thank you both for chiming in with the info and great pics. Definitely worth the work i think too.
For the moment, replacing the brake cyclinders has run into a minor set back. Ordered for the 2a 69 109 4 cyclinder 2.3 petrol the parts didnt fit. The brake cyclinders were different to mine. After sending some pics to the supplier he has informed me that someone has done a brake upgrade with the 6 cyclinder brakes and thats why they dont fit. So although i have to wait a bit longer to get the correct parts i guess its good to know that it has been upgraded.
I know that an old master cylinder can give problems, and some use pressure bleeding, otherwise there is some info here that may be of assistance.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-iia/110435-bleeding-brakes-series-2a.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/146217-brake-bleeders.html
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Nice work there.Keep it up.Cheers Hallsy.
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Close up pictures of the tac plates i hand drew and painted today. Dont know how exact i got them but they will do for now. Think i will just paint the roo red not green, as the green penny roo was early period, 86 tpt raasc marched in 67. With most vehicle's ive seen having the later variation of the red roo.
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Looking good keep up the good work
Cheers
Rod
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Thanks Rod,
Got the rims painted today, shovel and spare. Repainted the rear diff center white and then gave the tyres a blacken.
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Two more tac plates to make and i think ive met my goal for a resto in 2weeks. Borrowed a pressure bleeder today with no luck. Master cyclinder will be the next item to replace.
Haven't gone as far clamping the lines yet, i may try to isolate the problem this way first. New rear hose is expected tomorrow. Want to make sure its not a spongy hose. The front two were shot.
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Having 6 cyl brakes up front, does anyone think i need a 6 cyl brake master cylinder ? I remember reading about more modern brake on vehicles (disc) going to larger discs and bigger calipers, even more piston calipers, the upgrade should include a master with more volume and or travel. 2nd pump it comes up hard. First is almost to the floor without any real stopping power. Maybe i was using the vac bleeder wrong but it just kept on sucking air through on all the lines, i presumed from the nipple when cracked open ?
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looking fantastic, great job.
I've used the vacuum bleeders before with success, from memory manually bleed brakes the old fashion way first and use the vacuum for the last bit.
I think the normal master cylinder is Ok with S3 front brakes from memory
cheers
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Under the front tac light, is it a normal holder or something different to allow tac plates to drop in, or do you need to remove the light cover to drop the tac plate in the holder on that side ? My vehicle was missing the holder on the drivers front and it has 6 holes 3 down each side not 3 in a triangle . ?
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Under the front tac light, is it a normal holder or something different to allow tac plates to drop in, or do you need to remove the light cover to drop the tac plate in the holder on that side ? My vehicle was missing the holder on the drivers front and it has 6 holes 3 down each side not 3 in a triangle . ?
Yeah so there a stand off bracket that the tax plate holder goes onto to clear the blackout light. Same as what's on the back of workshop land rovers.
Should be photos on google image. Or on REMLR website some where
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Under the front tac light, is it a normal holder or something different to allow tac plates to drop in, or do you need to remove the light cover to drop the tac plate in the holder on that side ? My vehicle was missing the holder on the drivers front and it has 6 holes 3 down each side not 3 in a triangle . ?
Yeah so there a stand off bracket that the tax plate holder goes onto to clear the blackout light. Same as what's on the back of workshop land rovers.
Should be photos on google image. Or on REMLR website some where
I made one for my resto I have attached a pdf of the drawing that I used to make it from. I used 1.6mm aluminium to make it from.
Cheers
Rod
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Finally i found another genuine tac plater holder, today i will attempt to make the stand off bracket. Thank you heaps for the plan.
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Just needs some paint but im happy with the result. Simple bent up stand off bracket had me buggered as i didnt have a clear picture of one. Just need to replace the blackout switch panel and switch as previous owner put a temp guage where the switch went.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/20160516_141921.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/20160516_141921.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/20160516_141952.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/20160516_141952.jpg.html)
I also like the made up SRN plates in original postion with the historic plate rego in the middle on the mesh. I think i might go down this path too. Saving for bargrips and canvas roof with hoops to bring it back to a more original GS platform.
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Took the 109 out for a 4x4 test. Goes amazingly well. No wonder the army used them for so long.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20160604_131815.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160604_131815.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20160604_131634.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160604_131634.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20160604_130715.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160604_130715.jpg.html)
Blends in well with the bush in od paint. Cant wait to rid the white roof and cab in place of some hoops and canvas. Cant even find any hoops yet : (
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bit expensive but its a start
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-series-2A-or-series-1-86-or-88-hood-bows-Rare-to-find-/112017884594?hash=item1a14c945b2:g:jc4AAOSwqBJXU8mE
I know where there is a heap of the centre hoops - Fred Smith at Bayswater, Vic
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Hi FFRMAN, thanks for the suppliers name in vic. I'll look him up and give him a call. Another bloke that makes new canvas tops is booked till the end of the year ! Wow. I can wait but. Want to sit out winter with the cab on yet.
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Hi
Have you tried Restless Rover for a canopy, I can highly recommend his work. Someone here will have his contact details or do a search on the forum for his post that has his contact details.
Cheers
Rod
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I'm reasonably certain that I would have enough bits here to fit your 109, only items I don't have are the 4 clamps that hold the sticks to the tub, and of course with 2nd hand items you would need new bolts and rubber sections, and I'm just up the M1 from you, cheers Dennis
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Thats awesome Dennis ! , i will get in contact with your shortly and arrange a time i can come up. Sounds great thank you :)
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Decided with summer here , to take off the hard top cab and go topless. Always wanted a convertible :) . Looking at getting some rear seats, hoops and canvas top very soon.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161018_152601.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161020_151107.jpg
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Decided with summer here , to take off the hard top cab and go topless. Always wanted a convertible :) . Looking at getting some rear seats, hoops and canvas top very soon.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161018_152601.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161020_151107.jpg)
With tags.
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Finally got around to meeting Remlr member DennisM for some Landy parts.
Big thank you to Dennis for digging out some much needed parts to complete my Landrover GS 109.
A full hoop set, old canvas top and the rear bench seats. Digging through some more parts boxes, he found an original metal brake fuid reservoir, oil bath air cleaner with intake hose, radiator overfill bottle, black out dash panel, nos bumperettes and a few little bits i needed to replace on the landy. She will be looking all original and standard soon.
I painted inside my rear tub today and went about fitting up two of the 4 bench seats. 2 of them need the base frames (i have the backrest sections) and all 4 need the seat cushions.
Easy fit. Tabs hook under the rail and then 2 bolts on the base hold them in.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161114_141012.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161114_141012.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161114_141038.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161114_141038.jpg.html)
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Enjoying the 109 with the top off.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161115_160643.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161115_160643.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161115_155808.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161115_155808.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161115_155834.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161115_155834.jpg.html)
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Bolted up the hoop frame set, which includes 3x arched hoops, 4 connecting rails, 2x door top gutters and 2x door B pillars (allows door tops to close on a rubber seal frame) and 1x front windscreen top rail that the canopy hooks onto.
Although it looks simple it still took a little while to install having to rivet on the top windscreen rail. Needs to be painted in OD yet. The canvas roof is shot, crumbles in the fingers, but i threw it on to see how Plain Jane will look when i aquire a new or 2nd hand canopy.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161118_125537.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161118_125537.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161118_121155.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161118_121155.jpg.html)
Its great owning a vehicle that is so changeable with factory options. I will most likely sell the hard top single cab now.
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Fantastic work Clint, your vehicle has come a long way since you got hold of it.
You won't look back now that you have the correct soft top bits, it looks great!
Cheers,
Mike.
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After aquring the original oil bath air cleaner thanks to Dennis, i found no where to mount it. Some idiot in thier wisdom when fitting the holden air cleaner decided to oxy off the mount for oil bath set up from battery tray.
A trip to Hilton Pollard where he has a paddock full of parts, i managed to purchase another battery tray and some missing bits to help restore the 109 GS.
Heavily rusted i had to sand blast the tray and while i was there blasted the other bits too before a coat of rust guard and then some matt black. Runs good, and i find no power loss either. Looks much better now and better yet restored back to original. Never wanted to lift my hood at shows with that awful holden air cleaner on it.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161206_080558.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161206_080558.jpg.html)
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Great work Clint - This is a credit to you and also to Dennis. I dug out an old 109 canvas for you but it is in worse condition than the one you have.
Cheers mate
Frank
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Congrats Clint, looks the goods alright.
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Thanks for the comments, next is the dash. Again Dennis has helped me so much, restoring this historical vehicle definitely has been with his help. It is also worth mentioning any members after any Landrover parts, Mr Hilton Pollard has more landrover parts than u can poke a stick at. 45yrs worth of collecting with parts from wrecking over 400 vehicles.
In this picture you can see i have refitted the original map light panel. I will have to now remove the map light and swtich from the wiper motor cover, moving the switch over to the new panel along with the fuel tank guage switch from the center. The spare map light will be used to refit under the rear body as per original, as mine is missing.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161207_113236.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161207_113236.jpg.html)
Black out light switch and panel , with dual instrument guage to be fitted next.
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Took the 109 GS to the Clarence town swin-in event, which included a 4x4 run. Unfortunately the diff let go, from a broken off locking tab that someone had reused on the center.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161213_090027.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161213_090027.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161213_090100.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161213_090100.jpg.html)
Remlr member Dennis came to the rescue supplying me with a replacement center :)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165613.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165613.jpg.html)
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The housing was thoroughly cleaned
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165635.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165635.jpg.html)
Before installing the diff center the pinion seal was replaced
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165601.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165601.jpg.html)
And the output shaft was micro sleeved for zero leaks
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165538.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161214_165538.jpg.html)
You can see the part number on the box for the correct size ;)
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The weather has been so hot, i threw on a temporary army tarp for a roof, until i can sorce a proper canopy.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161210_095617.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161210_095617.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/received_1106535486133822.jpeg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/received_1106535486133822.jpeg.html)
Here is a picture of the hill that claimed my diff.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/received_1106535499467154.jpeg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/received_1106535499467154.jpeg.html)
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Engine bay and interior almost fully restored.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1482050387446.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1482050387446.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1482050506820.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1482050506820.jpg.html)
Q
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Nato hook installed to replace previous owners civi mod.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_20161218-180243.png) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_20161218-180243.png.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_20161218-180004.png) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_20161218-180004.png.html)
Ready for a No.5 to be picked up shortly.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/SmartSelectImage_2016-12-17-06-04-04.png) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/SmartSelectImage_2016-12-17-06-04-04.png.html)
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Your missing a bolt or 2, don't get picked up by the law, cheers dennis
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Coming along really nicely Clint.
Have you got the big split pin and chain for the NATO hitch that goes in the top jaw as a secondary lock?
Bad luck with the diff, I had one fail once where the pinion sheared where the radius changed just behind the nut for the drive flange - unlike yours, I think it was a manufacturing fault!
Once the load went off, it made a lot of metal.....
Cheers,
Mike.
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Have you got the big split pin and chain for the NATO hitch that goes in the top jaw as a secondary lock?
I've got a few of them new floating around somewhere.
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The stainless bolts were just for the pic till i got to the shops the next morning before picking up the trailer . Got some 8.8's. With nylocks.
It does have the little wire and chain to lock the the top but the thicker pin for the bottom i dont have. It just has bolts in the bottom.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161219_132707.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161219_132707.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161219_132645.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161219_132645.jpg.html)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161219_132736.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161219_132736.jpg.html)
ARN 101 316. 1963 model. First log in book is 1971 reassigned to william town. Then in 84 went to CMD and 145 sigs. Last entry for serivce is 2015/ 16.
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Looking up my trailers ARN 101 316 on remlr it shows it was rhe last trailer built for 1963. My log books show an entry to ADF in the 12th month of 63.
The next entry is reassignment to william town in 1971. The year we Australians packed up and went home from Vietnam.
Is there any references, database or knowledge of the No.5 1/2 tonne trailers being used in Vietnam ? Or other overseas deployment.
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First test for me in a Landrover on the sand and for the 109gs.
Performed better than i expected, just need to select the correct gear and amount of revs so you dont get bogged. Having no syncros in 1st to 2nd is terrible on the sand i found was the biggest let down. But manuals never perform as well as the autos on the sand due to loss of momentum.
Heres some pics of todays Recci on Stockton beach nsw.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_110115.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_110115.jpg.html)
The only dunes permitted to drive on now, sth end RVA area.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_111041.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_111041.jpg.html)
Gear selection and revs critical to not bogging in. Got to keep it floating on top where possible. Skinny tyres that dont bag only increase print lenght dont help much either. Running 12psi, dont waste your time with 20 psi.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_122132.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_122132.jpg.html)
On the hard pack, not in the water! , the landy was able to drive 2H or 4H in 4th gear. No problem. Stay clear of the soft wet stuff though. The tide can eat your car quickly.
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(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_121926.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_121926.jpg.html)
Its like a HWY when you get onto this nice hard packed sand,
No effort at all.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_120540.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_120540.jpg.html)
The famous Silver City
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_125512.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/ice_spy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161226_125512.jpg.html)
Free camping and beach access is available at the next beach north, Samari beach. Its also a Nudie beach so be warned. Lol.
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Im after some new tyres and seem to be confused to know what to buy.
Im running the welded 6.5×16 LandRover rims thst are designed for tubes.
Most tyres these days are tubless. ( not recommend for my rim).
Options for 7.5×16 are very limited.
235 85 16 are 99% tubeless tyres.
I dont want to run sunnys, i would like to keep the rims looking original.
Does anyone have any suggestions ?
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Run tubeless tyres with a tube
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Run tubeless tyres with a tube
This can work, however a lot of tubeless tyres have internal ribbing and other internal roughness which can abrade tubes, so take a good look at the internal smoothness of the tyre.
While I'm not actually recommending the practice, you may be aware that for many years following the introduction of tubeless tyres users ran them without tubes on the older type of S2 and later tubed rim.
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I run the xzl tubeless on the Perentie rims. Got sick of the constant flat tyres with the tubes. The valve steam on the tubes was marked tubeless? Are they thicker?
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Tubes can be found marked for "Radial" or "Bias" tyres, but I've never seen a tube marked Tubeless.
"Radial" tubes are thicker and a slightly harder compound to resist rubbing through and failing due to frictional heat.