Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
REMLR Technical => Mechanical => Topic started by: cookey on February 16, 2013, 10:46:51 PM
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Every time I drive one of my ex-army Land Rovers I am reminded how the braking ability is just not up to modern day traffic requirements. For many years I have entertained the thought of updating and improving the braking system, primarily by fitting front disc brakes and reducing the required pedal effort.
Like many Land Rover owners, I have read lots of suggestions in the various forums, including that the original brakes are fine if well maintained. Unfortunately, this opinion does not interest me in the least, as they are simply not up to my requirements or expectations. If you are satisfied with your original brakes then good for you, but please do not be critical of someone wishing to improve the safety of their vehicle to meet modern day traffic and driving conditions.
I have considered various after-market kits, which tend to be expensive (especially after adding international freight charges), and may also incorporate custom castings and/or calipers and rotors, which may be difficult (or perhaps impossible) to replace if the need arises. Some of them are also restricted to using a certain type or size of wheel rim.
My goals were to use the best calipers possible, with large ventilated rotors, at a reasonable cost, do all the fabrication work myself, and maintain the ability to be able to fit original Series wheels as well as 15 inch after-market wheels.
I soon found that it was quite a challenge to fit what I wanted into the very limited space available. After considering a great many possibilities and many efforts to fit what seemed like ideal combinations, I have finally settled on a combination that I am happy with. This incorporates large ventilated rotors and aluminium 4 piston calipers.
As calipers require a higher fluid pressure than the original drum brakes, a 8 inch dual diaphram booster was fitted together with a new Series 3 dual circuit master cylinder. To control rear wheel lock up with the extra boost, the rear brake cylinders were reduced in diameter to compensate.
I found a little spare time over Xmas and finally fitted the whole system to a Series 3 FFR. Over the past few weeks I have been bedding in the brakes and doing a few other odds and ends while waiting for a Certified Engineer to inspect the vehicle.
Well, the Engineer finally drove and tested everything today and has given his approval. He was actually very impressed with the stopping distances and pedal feel, and the manner in which this conversion was approached.
Cookey
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes070.jpg)
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes069.jpg)
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Any more pictures Cookey, especially of the ventilated disc? I think I'll do a video for youtube for you, if you want, I think a little video would help (and it costs nothing to do them).
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Excellent read, and something I have been thinking about for a while, more so for the wife to drive. Out of Interest were all the parts you obtained standard off the shelf items? and what was the cost for this little lot? or there abouts?
Did you consider some of those well know conversion kits that are out there? and your reasons for not purchasing one?
How long did the conversion take to do?
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More photo's and a build up report to follow.
All parts used are readily obtainable HOWEVER some machining of individual components involved.
Cost will depend on vehicle model and components needed.
Cookey
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes072.jpg)
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes050.jpg)
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes052.jpg)
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes053.jpg)
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes055.jpg)
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes054.jpg)
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes064.jpg)
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"Well, the Engineer finally drove and tested everything today and has given his approval. He was actually very impressed with the stopping distances and pedal feel, and the manner in which this conversion was approached."
I forgot to add a big congratulations. Excellent news Cookey and well done. To say the least, the completion of your project to the Approved stage takes some doing and dedication.
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Well done, Ive heard of this and have looked forward to see/hearing more
next stop, abs? :P
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I've been watching this process first hand over many weeks and have to say that Cookey went to extrordinary lengths to get the right combination. Every week there was an increasing pile of rejected components that failed by any number of parameters, not in workmanship but that the comercially manufacted part could not be adapted to the task properly. Unfortunately I'd been sworn to secrecy
We have all seen various kits on the internet including one local attempt with the ugliest adaptor plate I've ever seen. Cookey's manufactured parts, mainly the calliper mounting bracket is an elegant design that bolts directly in place of the original brake backing plate.
More importantly upon driving the vehicle it is refreshing to have brakes that pull you up in a straight line and are responsive to your brake effort, instead of stamp and hope.
For those considering the conversion I can only say good things in my wholehearted recommendation of Cookeys work.
Well done Gary!
Diana
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Any more pictures Cookey, especially of the ventilated disc? I think I'll do a video for youtube for you, if you want, I think a little video would help (and it costs nothing to do them).
Hi Ross, a video would be fantastic. Will talk to you next weekend. Any idea when you will be arriving? I will be home Friday night if you wish to get an early start on Sat. You are welcome any time.
Cookey
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I've been watching this process first hand over many weeks and have to say that Cookey went to extrordinary lengths to get the right combination. Every week there was an increasing pile of rejected components that failed by any number of parameters, not in workmanship but that the comercially manufacted part could not be adapted to the task properly. Unfortunately I'd been sworn to secrecy
We have all seen various kits on the internet including one local attempt with the ugliest adaptor plate I've ever seen. Cookey's manufactured parts, mainly the calliper mounting bracket is an elegant design that bolts directly in place of the original brake backing plate.
More importantly upon driving the vehicle it is refreshing to have brakes that pull you up in a straight line and are responsive to your brake effort, instead of stamp and hope.
For those considering the conversion I can only say good things in my wholehearted recommendation of Cookeys work.
Well done Gary!
Diana
Hi Diana, thanks for your kind words and support. Since you drove the FFR I have changed to a better pad compound, with even more impressive results. I am quite amazed at the braking ability of 7-50x16 Olympic Steelflex tyres. Way beyond my modest expectations. The Engineer did several consecutive stops from 80 km/h, with each stop resulting in a decreased stopping distance. The longest being the first stop at 27 metres. Quite impressive.
You'll have to try it out again.
Once again, thanks for your support.
Cookey
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Top work Cookie! I always love articles about technical innovation :D
Reading between the lines - are you going to produce your conversion commercially?
Cheers Chazza
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Hi Chazza
Hope I'm not talking out of turn.
Cookey is off on his other job today, but I am almost positive that Gary will provide the conversion commercially, either as a drive in drive out basis with engineer's certificate or on an exchange basis. Cookey will have to discuss price, but it will come as a completely assembled swivel with new bearings and the replacement booster.
Just calculating things in my head, I cant imagine it will be a cheap price, there are 2 new DBA rotors that have to be machined plus re-drilled and the pair of 4 piston callipers which need to be purchased new or overhauled second hand. The front hubs have to be machined, drilled and tapped to accept the rotors. The calliper mounting bracket has to be machined and an original drum machined into a spacer to correct the track. Then new Timken bearings, new seals and everything has to be setup.
I do know that it will be able to be fitted to both SIII and SIIa, but SIII or late SIIa hubs with press in studs will need to be supplied and not all swivel housings are appropriate for the conversion.
Diana
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Hi all and Diana
My son is about to go down that course on the 2B. He has fitted Subaru discs etc. on his Hilux and Engineer was impressed.
On the 2B he is looking at Discovery 1 setup from the banjo housing out. He will keep you informed on progress.
David & Jamie
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Hi David and Jamie
A lot of us have considered using RRc or Disco swivels however a number of obstacles come your way. Firstly will be the halfshafts, the Disco is a CV front end the S2B had uni joints. Barry Ward at Hi-Tough has brooches to cut ENV splines but would need the other specs.
The second obstacle you'll come across is the position of the track rod behind the housing and below the diff pinion in the same alignment as the spring pack.
My SADF SIIB has already been converted to CV front end (the reason that Barry now has the ENV brooches) but I'll be going Cookey's design. It would have been soo much easier to use the RRc stuff, Gary actually started at that point, but the difficulties mentioned above and 5 bolt drive flanges would have been a give away for a military Landy.
Diana
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Hi Chazza
Hope I'm not talking out of turn.
Cookey is off on his other job today, but I am almost positive that Gary will provide the conversion commercially, either as a drive in drive out basis with engineer's certificate or on an exchange basis. Cookey will have to discuss price, but it will come as a completely assembled swivel with new bearings and the replacement booster.
Just calculating things in my head, I cant imagine it will be a cheap price, there are 2 new DBA rotors that have to be machined plus re-drilled and the pair of 4 piston callipers which need to be purchased new or overhauled second hand. The front hubs have to be machined, drilled and tapped to accept the rotors. The calliper mounting bracket has to be machined and an original drum machined into a spacer to correct the track. Then new Timken bearings, new seals and everything has to be setup.
I do know that it will be able to be fitted to both SIII and SIIa, but SIII or late SIIa hubs with press in studs will need to be supplied and not all swivel housings are appropriate for the conversion.
Diana
Keep me posted if there is a kit available in the future. How is this kit different from the following ones
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/onlineshop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38&products_id=60
The proper link page http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/discBrake.htm
Series Land Rover front disc brake conversion kits
In alphabetical order:
Bearmarch kit:
These are out of production but you may occasionally find someone selling an old set on ebay or a boot sale. The Bearmarch disc brake kit was an imitation of the early Santana Girling system and was made in Iran. The quality of the imitation Girling Santana brakes is reported to be low.
Heystee Automotive Components conversion kit - Formally T.I. Console.
Pre-2010 disc brake conversion kits are based upon the disc brakes that come on the Spanish built Santana PS10 (Iveco Massif). The PS10 is basically a Land Rover clone so is in the same weight range as a Series LR. The brake calipers are made by Girling. The front disc brakes are a 2 piston vented system. The rear system has the same wheel hubs but slightly thinner discs (non ventilated) and smaller calipers. This is also a straight fit without modifications just like the front ventilated system.
A custom back plate is bolted onto the swivel housing in place of the drum brake back plate and the PS10 Girling brakes bolt to the plate. There are no grinding or modifications of existing components required. Wheel spacers are required to fit the Series wheel though
As the Santana (Massif) is not available in North America, North American's would need to source replacement parts directly from Heystee Automotive Components or an IVECO dealer. Santana has been taken over by IVECO and the Santana PS10 has been renamed the " IVECO Massif". Americans can usually have pads & rotors shipped by air to them from Europe in less than a week. Alternatively, if quick repairs are important, one can keep a backup set of pads and rotors on the shelf. IVECO has ceased production of the disc brake components used in this conversion so this kit is NLA.
2010 and newer Heystee disc brake conversions have a new custom swivel housing and hub which allows the use of off the shelf Land Rover Defender disc brake components without an adaptor plate. When IVECO ceased production of the disc brakes for the Santana (Massif) Heystee Automotive set about developing a custom conversion that would make use of easily obtained Defender brake components. Fortunately this kit allows North Americans to source consumable brake components locally.
"All parts mount onto the Series Land Rover axle without any modification or adaptors. All threads, seals and gaskets are identical to the original Land Rover units. The original wheels fit without any spacer or modification. With this system all maintenance parts are Land Rover, no need to source brake pads, caliper parts of odd-ball vehicles or modify "alien" rotor discs. Just contact your local Land Rover parts dealer when you need replacement." Quote from Heystee Automotive Components web site.
Castings for the Heystee Automotive front disc brake conversion.
In the Heystee disc brake conversion kit you get the castings shown above, 2 ventilated Defender rotors, 2 Defender Calipers plus all the bolts and washers required to mount the rotors and calipers.
Timm Cooper conversion kit by ROAM OFFROAD:
After being unavailable for several years this highly regarded disc brake conversion kit is once again available. This conversion is manufacture red and sold exclusively through ROAM OFFROAD. ROAM OFFROAD has elected to offer only the custom parts needed to make the conversion and not ship a complete conversion kit because each customer has unique needs and preferred sources for the stock Land Rover parts needed to complete the conversion. Note that all the castings and machine work for this conversion are made in the USA and are of the highest American quality.
Here is what you get with a 4 wheel disc brake conversion:
All the parts used in this kit are manufactured in the USA. Castings are from stronger than factory stock materials
Below is a swivel housing assembled on a truck ready for the hubs to be mounted.
A quick way to tell Timm Cooper's and Heystee Automotive Component's Defender based disc brake kits apart from a quick glance.
Timm Cooper designed his conversion kit using a single swivel housing casting for both sides of the vehicle. The casting is machined differently depending upon which side it is intended to be used for. So a quick glance at the housing will show two sets of caliper mounting ears. One machined at the back and one not. The Heystee Automotive Components conversion uses two different swivel housing castings each designed for a single side. So there is only a single caliper mounting bracket on each housing vs, two per housing.
Torrel Industries conversion kit:
Sold as a complete kit through Rocky Mountain Expedition Equipment Ltd. Call 604 913 7910 and ask for Jaremy for current information.
This 11 inch vented brake kit was engineered by Mel Brown and uses common (North America) AC Delco dual piston calipers, pads and rubber hoses. This is a 2 piston system that works with Series master cylinders They suggest that the Series III dual circuit power brake system be used. The back plate that mounts to the swivel housing and the hub are custom parts. The rotor is a GM rotor that has the centre machined to a larger diameter. Other than those 3 parts, everything else is standard off the shelf GM brake parts or Land Rover hub parts. These components were used on high performance models of the Chevy Lumina, Monte Carlo, Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and Buick Regal. They recommend telling your part dealer that you need parts for a 2001 Chevy Lumina.
A step by step description of a my front disc brake conversion using the Torrel Industries conversion kit
Zeus conversion kit:
Zeus Engineering supplies front & rear disc brake conversion kits for Series I, II, III including Salisbury rear axles. It is a 4 piston vented system for both front and rear brakes that is bolt on requiring no special modifications.The conversion requires fitting 16" 6J wheels to accommodate the 4 pot stainless steel calipers Zeus makes their own Calipers. They do not use Land Rover disc brake calipers. The kit is featured on their web site.
As you guys have done lots of research, you will have the pros and cons for these units I hope..
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The main problem is that most of the O/S kits require alternative wheel rims. So your Aussie mil vehicle will be an obvious conversion
The Hastee kit costs just under $A1,700 before you ship from Holland. It uses a special swivel housing and special hubs, and the standard (narrow) Land Rover ventilated rotors, it also doesn't change the inadequate OEM booster.
Both the Hastee and Roam kits use special aftermarket housings which may or may not be available remember that Haystee is a remanufactured TI Console kit.
The Roam kit costs $A1,400 before you ship from the US it also doesn't change the inadequate OEM booster.
The Torrell kit only uses 2 piston callipers.
None of them keep the dollars in Australia. All of them will require individual engineering of each converted vehicle (no type approval/no arrangement with an Australian Certified Engineer as with Gary's)
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Thanks D...
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Hello Diana
Jamie is using the LR 109 front and rear ends. That is what is there at the moment and will see how it pans out. There maybe an opportunity to acquire ENV front and rear and also a visit to sydney to check out your out riggers for S2b chassis.
David & soon to be REMLR member Jamie
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Hi David
You'll find the same problem with the spring pack and the 109 Rover diff front end.
Some people have put a spacer under the housing and rotated the pinion angle but both those methods create problems of their own.
The solution I was looking at for that route was getting a LHD RHS Disco housing and using the track rods into the drag link connection and then connect the drag link onto the track rod. It will still be obvious with the 5 stud Disco drive flanges instead of the 6 stud series flanges. (Disco CVs aren't very strong).
Diana
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I wonder, would it fit on a S2 ambulance? As I paln on keeping mine for some time, this could be a worthwhile investment.
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I wonder, would it fit on a S2 ambulance? As I paln on keeping mine for some time, this could be a worthwhile investment.
Yes, but you would have to do some modifications: - Firstly you need to have an SIII (late SIIa) 6cyl brake booster pedal box. This requires knotching out of the drivers footwell within the footprint of the SII pedal box. It also requires modification of the inner mudguard to allow clearance of the master cylinder & double diaphragm booster. (see pic in Garys first post.)
- You also need to find very late SIIa hubs with the push in studs, or change to SIII hubs.
- The SII swivel housings may not be correct.
- You need the SIII bracket and nuts for the brake hose connection on the front swivel housing.
- You need a late SIII dual circuit brake master cylinder.
- You need the brake balance switch from a dual circuit SIII and likely all the brake tube nuts from the same to do the conversion.
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg521/cookeygaza/GARYHOME/My%20Pictures/land%20rover%20disc%20brakes/landroverdiscbrakes070.jpg)
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Could you use a remote servo instead?
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Could you use a remote servo instead?
It is a problem that I have for my SIIB as there is insufficient room for the normal control pedal box/booster and master cylinder without it protruding through the front of the body.
You want to have a dual circuit system so the rear drums are on a different circuit to the front disks.
This will require different modifications to get the dual circuit master cylinder and you may not get the same boost from an in-line booster as you get from the double diaphragm 8" or 9" booster on the pedal box.
It will need individual engineering certification of the vehicle.
Whether Gary would be happy going down this route is another matter as it has potential consequences for his company name and him personally.
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I was only thinking aloud... just a question, thanks for your thoughts....
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Mmm, I think for now I will put the time and effort in to the original system.
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Mmm, I think for now I will put the time and effort in to the original system.
Its also something you can work on over time.
When you see bits at swap meets or find dead SIII taking the required items and storing them until you wish to proceed.
The modification of the inder mudguard can be achieved by getting one off an SIII (preferably ex-army) and replacing the front panel with the SII/SIIa one them bolting on your original SII cut outer mudguard. (Make sure you get the panel underneath the guard as this prevents mud and water splashing up into the engine bay and is quite different to the SII type.)
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Well, I finally have my Engineering Certification for the disc brake conversion.
Vehicle Safety Compliance Certification Scheme
Certificate Number: 1100201300046MP
Modification Code: LG2 Brake Conversion
Everything now complies with RMS (formally NSW RTA).
If anyone is interested in having a look at, or chat about, this conversion I will be driving the Series 3 to Corowa. Unfortunately, due to work commitments I can only attend for a couple of days on the final weekend. Hope to catch up with some of you there.
Cookey
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great stuff!!
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Great work Gary, it must take a little weight off your mind!
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Well, I finally have my Engineering Certification for the disc brake conversion.
Vehicle Safety Compliance Certification Scheme
Certificate Number: 1100201300046MP
Modification Code: LG2 Brake Conversion
Everything now complies with RMS (formally NSW RTA).
If anyone is interested in having a look at, or chat about, this conversion I will be driving the Series 3 to Corowa. Unfortunately, due to work commitments I can only attend for a couple of days on the final weekend. Hope to catch up with some of you there.
Cookey
Terrific result, and it didn't take months to do the paperwork from their end. Surprising really. Again congrats, and yes, I'm saving up... ;)
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What's a kit going to cost.
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What's a kit going to cost.
From AULRO http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/169784-series-disc-brake-conversion-i-did-my-way-post1865403.html#post1865403 (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/169784-series-disc-brake-conversion-i-did-my-way-post1865403.html#post1865403)After a great deal of thought and after liaison with my Accountant, Solicitor and Certifying Engineer, I have decided that this conversion will be offered for sale via 2 methods:
a) A complete drive-in / drive-out conversion, where all components are fitted by myself, in my workshop. This will include an Engineering Certificate for each individual vehicle. This will also include upgrading to Series 3 dual circuit pedal box, master cylinder, brake fail switch and the 8 inch dual diaphram booster, as well as fitting new rear wheel cylinders, regardless of model. SWB versions will also require the fitting of 11 inch rear brake assemblies. In other words, the brakes will be upgraded to exactly what is fitted to my series 3.
b) A complete pre-assembled kit of all components necessary to complete the conversion. Some items will be on an exchange basis. The exchanged items will have to be serviceable and of the correct type or a core charge will apply. The kit will include the front components pre-assembled, so that all that is required for fitting is to disconnect the front brake hoses, disconnect the tie rod ends, undo 6 bolts on either end of the axle housing, and bolt on the new assemblies. A pedal box will be included pre-fitted with the booster and master cylinder. The kit form will also be available as an outright purchase, without the need to exchange any items. I will be happy to supply a COPY of my Engineering Certificate to assist you with arranging your own certification.
Prices will vary somewhat depending on the model and if you have reclaimable items to exchange. A preliminary price guide appears below.
The high braking performance achieved through this conversion is due to the superior design of the calipers, the increased booster assistance, the overall brake balance and also the choice of disc pad compound. Any attempt to mix other components will upset the braking balance and performance. Anyone seriously considering upgrading their brakes is encouraged to come and drive my vehicle. The results are astonishing.
Cookey
Brake Conversion Pricing
Conversion parts
2 x reconditioned 4 piston aluminium calipers @ 225-00 $450-00
2 x modified 276mm vented rotors @ 125-00 $250-00
1 x premium grade disc pad set (Bendix Ultimate) @ 160-00 $160-00
2 x fabricated caliper mounting bracket @ 250-00 $500-00
2 x modified swivel housings (exchange – core charge $50 ea) @ 60-00 $120-00
2 x modified wheel hub (exchange – corecharge$50ea) @ 60-00 $120-00
2 x modified brake drum spacers (exchange – core charge $20 ea) @ 25-00 $ 50-00
1 x modified pedal box (series 3 type) (exchange – core charge $100) @ 100-00 $100-00
2 x caliper steel brake pipes @ 15-00 $ 30-00
1 x 8” dual diaphram booster @ 140-00 $140-00
2 x master cylinder extended steel brake pipes @ 25-00 $ 50-00
2 x rear wheel cylinder @ 40-00 $ 80-00
1 x various sundries, lock tabs, nuts, bolts, etc. @ 50-00 $ 50-00
2 x railco bush to bearing conversion @ 75-00 $150-00
Total $ 2250-00
Additional items if required
1 x brake master cylinder (dual circuit) $ 275-00
2 x wheel bearing and seal kit @ $90-00 $ 180-00
2 x swivel ball seals @ $35-00 $ 70-00
2 x lower swivel pin bearings @ $25-00 $ 50-00
2 x servicable stub axles @ $25-00 $ 50-00
2 x servicable swivel balls @ $95-00 $ 190-00
2 x servicable front axle shafts @ $95-00 $ 190-00
2 x serviceable rear brake drums @ $50-00 $ 100-00
1 x set rear brake shoes $ 85-00
1 x dual circuit pressure differential valve & switch (series 3 type) $ 100-00
1 x warning lamp modification (if required) $ 100-00
Fitting service
Series 2-2a $ 825-00
Series 3 (single circuit) $ 715-00
Series 3 (dual circuit) $ 550-00
Stage 1 V8 $ 550-00
Engineering Certificate $ 660-00
Note: all prices include GST where applicable
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Thanks D
How long to fit.
By manufacturer
By buyer. Average
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Hi Juddy
Gary was saying that on a late SIII six cylinder it would only be a few hours, this is because he plans to have the assemblies pre assembled and exchange the ones that come off. So its a matter of removing and replacing the rear brake cylinders, removing the six bolts on each axle housing, the track rod and one end of the drag link and the six bolts that hold the pedal box to the firewall. Then swap over the 3 assemblies, swap the brake pipes bleed the brakes and do a test drive.
It may be as little as in by 8am and out by lunch.
Are you going to Corowa, Gary will have his SIII there for a test drive.
Diana
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No will not be there his year, will he be at Sydney later in the year.
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Yes he will, or you could wait till Dave fits up the kit he's ordered and see what its like.
Are you thinking about it on the workshop?
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I have been looking at a number of conversions yes, more so because I want the Workshop to be a better drive for the wife, and thus this may be of benefit.
However, I know of people who have very good standard brakes and say its not worth all the expense if you set up yours correctly.
I think I would need to drive one first to get a better feeling for it.
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I have been one of the people who support the drum brakes, however two things you can't get around is the that that the LR 109 system works poorly in reverse and the constant need to adjust the shoes.
Yes you can put the wider 3" shoes on the front, you can change the pedal box and fit a larger booster, even fit a dual circuit but you still wont get past the need to frequently adjust the brakes.
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And I think that is for me the main reason from my point of view, of going for a system like this, no more messing about...
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Diana, not particularly discussing this excellent conversion, but in general are vehicles with any Engineering Modification still eligible for NSW Historic Registration?
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Diana isn't on her computer at the moment, but to answer your question.
Under NSW HCRS "Vehicles must be as close to or original condition as possible, with NO alterations except for safety features such as seat belts and turn indicators or period accessories and options, if desired." Disk brake conversions are a safety modification, there are other documents that back this up but won't go into it. Suffice to say that for modified vehicles, it is preferred the modification be done and engineered when on full rego and then transferred to historic.