Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
REMLR Technical => Mechanical => Topic started by: Ford Blitz on September 03, 2021, 02:41:15 PM
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just experienced a steering issue. Travelling at about 60 KPH as I backed off the throttle there was a bad shudder on the steering wheel. Pulled up and started to move again shudder had disappeared. Any clues?
Its a RFSV running the split rims with the standard military Michelin 750x16 tyres.
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Just the usual list; check the tyres; wheel balance; brake rotors; pre-load on the swivel bearings; play in the steering joints; suspension bushes, etc.
Cheers Charlie
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thanks. Its odd was quite violent but has gone away ???
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International C1300s get the shimmys so bad you think you must crash when the hammering breaks something......Wear in the tierod ends ,ball joints,steering pivots ,all contribute .....and it will happen again ,more frequently.
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thanks I will get it checked out :)
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I was driving a Range Rover with 4BD1 engine, and it started to shudder and shake the steering wheel so bad that I didn't think I could hold onto the wheel and keep the vehicle on the road, would of been doing 95-100 kph, I pulled up, had a look underneath the vehicle, couldn't see any thing amiss, resumed my journey, didn't happen again. However, after talking with a friend, who had had the same thing happen in a 110 county, with 4bd1, we found that the panhard rod bushes were buggered. Why it did it only once I still have no idea. The bushes, when removed were very soft and the rubber was all broken and cracked. Replaced them, didn't happen again.
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excuse my ignorance what on earth is a panhard rod bushes?
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The panhard rod is the bar between the front axle and the chassis, runs parallel with the steering arm. There is a bush at each end, that are pressed in, and bolted in place. The bolt can wear, replace with a high tensile bolt and nyloc nut.
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Thanks I will have a look :)
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Hi,
I have the same sounding problem. It occurs around 85km/h for me (on an RFSV). Uneven road seems to set it off, and changing speed or turning the wheels seems to stop the vibrations. Had my front wheels rebalanced, did not help. I have installed a new panhard rod last year, but have travelled up FNQ, Cape York etc. from Victoria since (quite hard corrugations, etc.). The problem started after I got back and I rotated wheels/tires.
I am still trying to find the real cause/causes. All joints, etc. seem to be "tight". Could it be a shot steering damper?
Thank you.
Muesli.
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If your panhard rod bushes are good it most likely will be swivel preload. And the only way to check is to drop the steering arms and check the swivel turning resistance.
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I too am yet to solve the problem but suspect Bearman is on the money
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In an Inter 130,the shaking can be so bad the engine mounts are ripped apart,and you wont find a steering box that hasnt been smashed up inside by the shimmys.
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Thank you Guys. I shall have a look/check it out. :)
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Hi Guys.
Many thanks for your help and suggestions regarding the shudder.
I have disconnected the tie rod from the swivel pin housing and found the turning/rotating resistance to be well below the 4kg. so I removed one of the shims from under the swivel pin (see picture attached). The turning resistance then came up to just over 9kg. After reassembly, I took the landy for a drive, and the shudder is gone!
Many thanks again. :)
Best regards,
Muesli.
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Yep that seems to be my problem. Just need to physique myself up to get down under the truck. These days it easy to get down but I need a cut lunch for the trip to get back up. thanks for all the contributions :)
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I hope that's not correct at 9kg's turnning resistance, that sounds a bit too tight and you could end up with issues later not alone stiff steering and no return to centre?
Darren
Many thanks for your help and suggestions regarding the shudder.
I have disconnected the tie rod from the swivel pin housing and found the turning/rotating resistance to be well below the 4kg. so I removed one of the shims from under the swivel pin (see picture attached). The turning resistance then came up to just over 9kg. After reassembly, I took the landy for a drive, and the shudder is gone!
Many thanks again. :)
Best regards,
Muesli.
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Hi Darren,
Yes, 9kg turning force. See pages 108, 109 and the Table on page 111, of the "Truck, Utility, LTWT and Truck, Utility LTWT, Winch, MC2 - Land Rover 110 4x4: Light Grade Repair" manual.
The specification for rotation resistance in there (see Table on page 111) is: "4.5-9kg (10-20lb)".
I checked both front wheels/swivel pins, and both were well below 4kg (around 1-2kg!). Having corrected them by taking out shims, I have brought the rotation resistance in each up to around 9kg (measured using the manual instruction). The shudder has gone.
What is your experience? Is the 9kg really too high? I am somewhat limited by the thickness of the shims in choosing/determining the rotation resistance.....
Many thanks,
George.
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George,
My bad, I should have read manual 1st!
However it is about the highest figure I've seen for the railco set up, Classic Range Rover being 2-3lbs, Series vehicles and 101's 8-10lbs and early 90/110 3.6 to 4.5kg (8-10lbs) all without seals and grease. It is not so easy to ascertain the resistance with the oil seal in place and the swivel filled with grease. Even harder to gauge the correct figure with worn parts. I think the 9kg is the calculated accumulated figure for the swivels, grease and seals.
Should really be remembered that just removing shims is really a temporary solution, approx 50% of the swivels I've worked on with railco's we've found sufficient wear on the pin to require them to be changed along with new railco bushes and the thrust pad.
If you had a later swivel with bearings opposed to railco's it would certainly be too tight and wrecked bearings would be the end consequence.
Darren
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Many thanks Darren.
Yes, the rotation resistance was measured on each fully assembled (with seals and greased) swivel.
The Landy seems to drive good. No shudder, and the steering returns to center, etc. as per normal. I have also checked the swivel for potential raise in temperature after a lengthy drive, but both were cold all round (except for the brake discs :-) ).
I shall see if I can get hold of some very thin shims, and revisit :-)
Many thanks for your advice.
George.
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ok so my issue is solved :
Replace cracked tie bar;
Replace US Pitman arm;
New tie rod ends and Pan Head bushes. Swivel pin preloads fine.
All good now! ;D
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resistance should be checked with swivel seals un done, cheers TONA 51590 rfsv.