Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
REMLR General => REMLR - General Chatter => Topic started by: Acorn on March 17, 2021, 08:14:09 AM
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So, I’ve just purchased some Protec Camouflage spray cans from the helpful guys at Eastern Auto Paints in Bayswater.
The paint job on my trusty 110 GS needs a good bit of touching up in places.
Before I rip into the job, given I have absolutely ZERO experience in painting anything other than rocks around a flag pole, does anyone have any tips for me in using these spray cans to touch up my camo paint job?
Any tips on preparation, dos and don’ts would be sincerely appreciated!
Also, can anyone recommend a source to make a simple stencil? I’d like to spray ACORN and the original ARN on my GS.
Many thanks!
Acorn
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Make sure the paint is well mixed.
When you think you have shaken the can enough, shake it again for the same amount of time and then again.
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One of the other enthusiasts here suggested that before "the shake-a-thon" let the can sit in a bucket of hot water for an hour.
I now swear by the hot water warm up before shaking. In Queensland and other hot climates ... likely a non-issue.
Stencils.
You will note that the border line between colours is a sort of out of focus border. We have experimented with rattle can overlap and what little we know is that the cardboard stencil or masking tape cannot be on the panel - a better result is too have a spacer piece of cardboard and have a air gap at the stencil edge. We used 6mm and it allows a little overspray to end up with the soft border. Still not fantastic, but its all we got unless we pay for a pro job.
Also note the obvious while we are here - green is the lowest layer, then tan/brown then black.
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Make sure the paint is well mixed.
When you think you have shaken the can enough, shake it again for the same amount of time and then again.
Many thanks for taking the time to reply Mick, appreciate it! 👍
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One of the other enthusiasts here suggested that before "the shake-a-thon" let the can sit in a bucket of hot water for an hour.
I now swear by the hot water warm up before shaking. In Queensland and other hot climates ... likely a non-issue.
Stencils.
You will note that the border line between colours is a sort of out of focus border. We have experimented with rattle can overlap and what little we know is that the cardboard stencil or masking tape cannot be on the panel - a better result is too have a spacer piece of cardboard and have a air gap at the stencil edge. We used 6mm and it allows a little overspray to end up with the soft border. Still not fantastic, but its all we got unless we pay for a pro job.
Also note the obvious while we are here - green is the lowest layer, then tan/brown then black.
Many thanks for taking the time to reply Carzee. Appreciate the tips! 👌
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There is a primer/undercoat spray can that goes with these - make sure you use it wherever the old paint has gone back to bare metal or you new paint will just peel off.
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There is a primer/undercoat spray can that goes with these - make sure you use it wherever the old paint has gone back to bare metal or you new paint will just peel off.
Many thanks for your reply fc101! 👍👌
Regards
Acorn
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Acorn,
To add to Mick's comments regards, shaking and warming up, if you do suffer a blocked can remove the nozzle and blast the pipe with some compressed air , it works a treat unblocking the nozzle.
Shaking the can as much and as often as you can can't be stressed enough.
Cheers,
Mick
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If it helps - I can assist with two inch stencils - let me know what you want and I will make an "Acorn" and ARN stencil for you! (LETTERS AND NUMBERS only, no symbols)!
STDDIVER
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Acorn,
To add to Mick's comments regards, shaking and warming up, if you do suffer a blocked can remove the nozzle and blast the pipe with some compressed air , it works a treat unblocking the nozzle.
Shaking the can as much and as often as you can can't be stressed enough.
Cheers,
Mick
Thanks Mick, appreciate the reply. We must catch up soon, we’re only 10 km apart.
Kind regards
Acorn
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If it helps - I can assist with two inch stencils - let me know what you want and I will make an "Acorn" and ARN stencil for you! (LETTERS AND NUMBERS only, no symbols)!
STDDIVER
Wow! Many thanks STDDIVER! That is very generous of you.
I’ll shoot you an email....
Kind regards
Acorn
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No worries Acorn, I let you know when I’m back .
Cheers,
Mick
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Another tip with using these cans is that when one is empty, save the nozzle before throwing it away. I have a sealed bottle half full of turps with around a dozen that I have kept. The turps just stops any remaining paint from drying in them before you use them again. Every now and then, you will get a brand new can and find it just won't spray. It will splutter and dribble and drive you wild, so you can use one of your known good nozzles on it instead. Oh, also give all new cans a trial squirt on something other than your project, so you don't get paint splatter where you don't want it if you get one with a dud nozzle.
Also, don't panic when you first use the paint and find it doesn't look the same as your older painted areas. It will change colour over time and sort of fade a bit and lose the initial gloss/satin finish and become matt.
This aldehyde paint seems to stay soft for a week or so before fully curing. I had some areas on my truck where the paint was dry but scratched easily when I bumped into it with tools while working on something else. After a week or 2, it cured and now takes a lot more carelessness to damage.
Greg.
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Some more good tips there Greg.
Thank you
Mick
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Another tip with using these cans is that when one is empty, save the nozzle before throwing it away. I have a sealed bottle half full of turps with around a dozen that I have kept. The turps just stops any remaining paint from drying in them before you use them again. Every now and then, you will get a brand new can and find it just won't spray. It will splutter and dribble and drive you wild, so you can use one of your known good nozzles on it instead. Oh, also give all new cans a trial squirt on something other than your project, so you don't get paint splatter where you don't want it if you get one with a dud nozzle.
Also, don't panic when you first use the paint and find it doesn't look the same as your older painted areas. It will change colour over time and sort of fade a bit and lose the initial gloss/satin finish and become matt.
This aldehyde paint seems to stay soft for a week or so before fully curing. I had some areas on my truck where the paint was dry but scratched easily when I bumped into it with tools while working on something else. After a week or 2, it cured and now takes a lot more carelessness to damage.
Greg.
Many thanks Greg!
I’ve noticed the green on my 110 appears a little different to the green from the spray can. I was a bit worried about that until I realised I’m CP2 colour blind so should worry about it too much.
Thanks for your info and tips. Invaluable for the Reo like me.
Kind regards
Acorn
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Another tip with using these cans is that when one is empty, save the nozzle before throwing it away. I have a sealed bottle half full of turps with around a dozen that I have kept. The turps just stops any remaining paint from drying in them before you use them again. Every now and then, you will get a brand new can and find it just won't spray. It will splutter and dribble and drive you wild, so you can use one of your known good nozzles on it instead. Oh, also give all new cans a trial squirt on something other than your project, so you don't get paint splatter where you don't want it if you get one with a dud nozzle.
Also, don't panic when you first use the paint and find it doesn't look the same as your older painted areas. It will change colour over time and sort of fade a bit and lose the initial gloss/satin finish and become matt.
This aldehyde paint seems to stay soft for a week or so before fully curing. I had some areas on my truck where the paint was dry but scratched easily when I bumped into it with tools while working on something else. After a week or 2, it cured and now takes a lot more carelessness to damage.
Greg.
Many thanks Greg!
I’ve noticed the green on my 110 appears a little different to the green from the spray can. I was a bit worried about that until I realised I’m CP2 colour blind so should worry about it too much.
Thanks for your info and tips. Invaluable for the Reo like me.
Kind regards
Acorn
I wouldn't worry to much about the mismatch in colour. The original olive drab fades quickly to an avocado green.
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I worry some times - not one bit of help for the rocks and flagpole! (Refer original post) ;D
Ditto to the above help, I find the angle of the can nozzle to the surface gives the best "ghosting line: without too much overspray. I practiced a lot before I was game enough to give it a go but the experimenting paid off. All paint fades over time and the OD puts up with a lot of solar load. When I find a good nozzle on a can I swap it out and continue to use it, some give better results for fine work than others. Good luck with the respray/touchup! Incidentally Acorn, in re-reading this thread, I recall - if you still want a stencil pls PM me! Lets sort this out and I can make what you need - Delivery Corowa? ;)
STDDIVER
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I worry some times - not one bit of help for the rocks and flagpole! (Refer original post) ;D
Ditto to the above help, I find the angle of the can nozzle to the surface gives the best "ghosting line: without too much overspray. I practiced a lot before I was game enough to give it a go but the experimenting paid off. All paint fades over time and the OD puts up with a lot of solar load. When I find a good nozzle on a can I swap it out and continue to use it, some give better results for fine work than others. Good luck with the respray/touchup! Incidentally Acorn, in re-reading this thread, I recall - if you still want a stencil pls PM me! Lets sort this out and I can make what you need - Delivery Corowa? ;)
STDDIVER
Many thanks STDDIVER,
I’m all sorted on my stencils. Mick was good enough to knock a few out for me.
Appreciate the offer, nevertheless!
See you at Corowa!
Regards
Acorn