Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
Vehicle Variants => Trailers => Topic started by: Magellan on November 15, 2015, 08:59:27 AM
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Just bought an early No.5 and was wondering if it needs to be registered in Victoria? It seems it meets the exempt guidelines in the Vic Roads Light Trailer Pack.
Will it require safety chains to comply? Not v.original if it does :(
Cheers, Daryl
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One of the mods that had to be done to all Number 5's was the fitting of safety chains. I have a 1960's era RAEME trailer andand 1970's Number 5 and both have safety chains fitted, by the army. So, on that basis, chains are "original".
Having said that, my first Number 5 which I sold over 10 years ago, and which I got direct from the army auctions, did not have chains.
That should make it easier for you to decide lol!
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Yep and yep.
It's greater than 3m long (by 180mm) and therefore will need to be registered. Only $55.50 per year.
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Cheers men😉 Then I favour welding an eye to the drawbar heel rather than to the sides. As for rego, I'll hunt up its ARN and get a personalised plate if possible. (once I remove the paint from the ID plates)
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Also you can put the trailer on club rego
Cheers
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I've always wondered, how much is a club permit for a trailer?
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club permit in Victoria for trailer is about $20 as you don't pay the TAC fee on trailers
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cheers men. I'll still plum for the ARN as its plate in the first instance if possible.
Scott, I have the data for your records if you like?
Daryl
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Yep and yep.
It's greater than 3m long (by 180mm) and therefore will need to be registered. Only $55.50 per year.
And it's 160kg over the (unladen) limit too :(
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Here you are Scott (are you the correct person?)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4455.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4457.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4460.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4459.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4458.jpg)
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cheers men. I'll still plum for the ARN as its plate in the first instance if possible.
I don't think you can do that, Not for a trailer.
Seems you can for a car, though.
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cheers men. I'll still plum for the ARN as its plate in the first instance if possible.
I don't think you can do that, Not for a trailer.
Seems you can for a car, though.
Hmmm , hoping so.
A curious thing, the Chassis no. 103 brings up an ARN of 101-026, dated 1963 in the database. Doesn't seem to accord withe ID plate?
???
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cheers men. I'll still plum for the ARN as its plate in the first instance if possible.
I don't think you can do that, Not for a trailer.
Seems you can for a car, though.
Hmmm , hoping so.
A curious thing, the Chassis no. 103 brings up an ARN of 101-026, dated 1963 in the database. Doesn't seem to accord withe ID plate?
???
Chassis and tubs were changed regularly. The ARN was the only constant.
It's a case of best guess.
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Dusty - a question - I cannot recall seeing the red and amber Lucas L488 set before - could be a really early build or a post-army mod?
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Dusty - a question - I cannot recall seeing the red and amber Lucas L488 set before - could be a really early build or a post-army mod?
Definitely in service brake and blinker both sides. Notice no big breake on drivers side and normal black out light for number plate light.
Second batch of production.
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103 is tha tub number not the chassis number. It can be hard to find.
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I recall the L488 amber with a single Hella stop light in a shroud as the early version.
http://www.remlr.com/wiki/images/4/40/154099-number5-adamstown-b.jpg
I must have missed "the full L488".
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Here's 154-520 (Dennis' trailer) rear crossmember before the rebuild.
There is no 2nd cut out for a L488 stop light each side.
http://www.remlr.com/wiki/images/6/6b/154-520-chassis-stripped.jpg
So Dusty's trailer must be a different early build. You say the second batch. What did the first batch look like?
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I have three different RPS for the Aust 5 trailers, each showing the different light configurations. I will dig them out of storage and post some pictures of the light section.
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One of my trailers has the Lucas L488 tail and indicator setup.
Map light for the number plate plus the reflectors on each side.
Mine also is early 60s manufacture.
My other two has the large Narva stop/tail with plate window setup.
All three have safety chains welded on both sides of the central tube
just behind the lunette mounting plate.
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Early frame with single L488 light and Hella stop/tail light in bucket.
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Eallrly type
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Late type frame with two L488 lights either side. No longer the bucket with Hella light.
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Late type.
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cheers men. I'll still plum for the ARN as its plate in the first instance if possible.
I don't think you can do that, Not for a trailer.
Seems you can for a car, though.
Hmmm , hoping so.
A curious thing, the Chassis no. 103 brings up an ARN of 101-026, dated 1963 in the database. Doesn't seem to accord withe ID plate?
???
Chassis and tubs were changed regularly. The ARN was the only constant.
It's a case of best guess.
If your trailer is ARN 101-026, I own 101-029 which is Chassis # 116 I have the service book which details it's history, entered service in Oct. 63
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(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4459.jpg)
The delivery date shows 10/81 so it's likely a tub swap has occurred?
Can someone please explain the CAPO No? (For a while there I thought the first 6 digits might be the ARN)
I guess I'll search underneath for a chassis no. I gave it a wash today to remove the lichen etc, got stuck in with the pressure washer and also removed some big and angry black spiders! I'll feel better about crawling under now
Many thanks for all the info, fascinating stuff
BTW Carzee, it certainly all looks OEM and not fiddled with
Daryl
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I have three different RPS for the Aust 5 trailers, each showing the different light configurations. I will dig them out of storage and post some pictures of the light section.
I only had the later rps that matches my trailer 101-148. Thank you for the scans of the other lights. I have recently got hold of amber L488 glass lenses, just need the rubber boots and metal bulb holder at the swap coming up in Qbn. Google says the L488 reds and ambers were on thousands of the good ol Morris Minors.
Re-learning something new everyday lately....
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(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4459.jpg)
The delivery date shows 10/81 so it's likely a tub swap has occurred?
Can someone please explain the CAPO No? (For a while there I thought the first 6 digits might be the ARN)
I guess I'll search underneath for a chassis no. I gave it a wash today to remove the lichen etc, got stuck in with the pressure washer and also removed some big and angry black spiders! I'll feel better about crawling under now
Many thanks for all the info, fascinating stuff
BTW Carzee, it certainly all looks OEM and not fiddled with
Daryl
CAPO = Commonwealth of Australia Purchase Order (number), still current terminology in defence
is the manufacturers plate on the tub or chassis? it has manufacturers serial No 103 and your other photo has 103 which looks like it's on the tab from the tub that the bolts go through to secure to the chassis, need a slightly larger photo.
Chassis number quite often on the back cross member just left of the rear towing hitch, or at the front similar positioning, worse case it could be on front cross member drivers side but one to (under tub)
cheers
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(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4459.jpg)
The delivery date shows 10/81 so it's likely a tub swap has occurred?
Can someone please explain the CAPO No? (For a while there I thought the first 6 digits might be the ARN)
I guess I'll search underneath for a chassis no. I gave it a wash today to remove the lichen etc, got stuck in with the pressure washer and also removed some big and angry black spiders! I'll feel better about crawling under now
Many thanks for all the info, fascinating stuff
BTW Carzee, it certainly all looks OEM and not fiddled with
Daryl
CAPO = Commonwealth of Australia Purchase Order (number), still current terminology in defence
is the manufacturers plate on the tub or chassis? it has manufacturers serial No 103 and your other photo has 103 which looks like it's on the tab from the tub that the bolts go through to secure to the chassis, need a slightly larger photo.
Chassis number quite often on the back cross member just left of the rear towing hitch, or at the front similar positioning, worse case it could be on front cross member drivers side but one to (under tub)
cheers
Gedday Scott, the number is on the tab. I've looked in all the places you suggested but no luck yet. This plate is on the rear crossmember, but largely indecipherable.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4462.jpg)
Given the info I already have, is it possible to know the ARN, or do I need the Chassis no.?
Daryl
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I'd be going for the ARN of 101-026
It correspondes with the chassis number of 103 and makes it
similiar age to my early sixties model.
The stamped 103 is the similiar stamping to my chassis number
and is a similiar stamp style too.
Greg Mac.
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Howdy,
that small plate usually put on the front passenger side would say manufactured by Ordinance factory Maribrynong.
Is 103 on the tub or chassis??
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The "103" stamp looks to be on the trailer body mounting tab/tang.
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The "103" stamp looks to be on the trailer body mounting tab/tang.
yep that's what I thought but need clarity, the confusing thing is the data plate would be for the complete unti and says it's serial number is 103, normally there is a tub number and chassis number
Actually is it Chassis 103 and body 183?? the zero on the tub tab could be an 8
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The "103" stamp looks to be on the trailer body mounting tab/tang.
yep that's what I thought but need clarity, the confusing thing is the data plate would be for the complete unti and says it's serial number is 103, normally there is a tub number and chassis number
Actually is it Chassis 103 and body 183?? the zero on the tub tab could be an 8
The number is on the body mounting tab. When I first noted it I was unsure if it was an 8 or 0 but assumed a 0 because of the data plate info. Now you've prompted me to re-examine the photo and actually it looks like an 8 when viewed on an angle (on my iPhone)
The other mystery is why the delivery date is stated as 10/81 when everything points to it being an early trailer?
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That large plate is not normally seen on No5's but I've seen them before, I suspect they refer to a refurb no the original build
Maybe google the CAPO number and see what you get
cheers
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Maybe google the CAPO number and see what you get
cheers
Several searches have yet to reveal anything.
Have looked again athe stamped number and it's definitely an 8 (well spotted Scott). I think I can safely assume the '103' on the data plate is the chassis no.. It all points to being an early, unmolested trailer. 101-026 it is. Seems a pity to add chains , but safety is important.
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cheers men. I'll still plum for the ARN as its plate in the first instance if possible.
I don't think you can do that, Not for a trailer.
Seems you can for a car, though.
Hmmm , hoping so.
A curious thing, the Chassis no. 103 brings up an ARN of 101-026, dated 1963 in the database. Doesn't seem to accord withe ID plate?
???
Chassis and tubs were changed regularly. The ARN was the only constant.
It's a case of best guess.
If your trailer is ARN 101-026, I own 101-029 which is Chassis # 116 I have the service book which details it's history, entered service in Oct. 63
It seems we have close 'cousins'. 😉
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There's a strong rumour some cousins got hitched.
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There's a strong rumour some cousins got hitched.
Clever 😉😀
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All three have safety chains welded on both sides of the central tube
just behind the lunette mounting plate.
Greg, can you send me a pic of the chain position please?
Cheers, Daryl
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can do, but not before the weekend.
My trailers coralled out the back of the man cave
in the Adventure Playground.
Greg
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All three have safety chains welded on both sides of the central tube
just behind the lunette mounting plate.
Greg, can you send me a pic of the chain position please?
Cheers, Daryl
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Cheers Scott, can you also please advise the position of the fittings on the rear crossmember that the chains link up to?
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(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t385/aussiegregmac/IMG_0639.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/aussiegregmac/media/IMG_0639.jpg.html)
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t385/aussiegregmac/IMG_0641.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/aussiegregmac/media/IMG_0641.jpg.html)
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t385/aussiegregmac/KGrHqRHJCIE7zmKVGzBPHUYU8thw60_12.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/aussiegregmac/media/KGrHqRHJCIE7zmKVGzBPHUYU8thw60_12.jpg.html)
First photo is the older No5 with the Lucas L288 indicators and tail/stop lights with smaller chain.
Second photo with large links is the later trailer with International type stop/tail light.
All photo show links welded vertically with sufficient chain to crossover to towing vehicle.
Greg Mac.
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Thanks Greg, what was the connection like on the crossmember of the truck?
Daryl
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By truck, you mean the Blitz ??
Normal Blitz type leaf spring type arrangement with the old style non-rotating Pintle hook.
I don't use a No 5 on the Blitz but I have some mounting points to attach the chains to on
a one ton Brockhouse trailer that I'm still working on.
Greg
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Sorry, I should have been clearer. I mean the attachment of the chains to a (Series III) Land Rover. I presume there would loops/eyes welded onto the rear crossmember? Or were they attached with shackles through the helicopter lift points?
Cheers, Daryl
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I use shackles and the lift points but I have seen them attached to the pine
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Ah right, With the Series Rover you will have to come up with somewhere to attach the chains.
I've got some shackle points welded onto the pintle mounting plate on my Series 2 FFW.
Greg
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Ah right, With the Series Rover you will have to come up with somewhere to attach the chains.
I've got some shackle points welded onto the pintle mounting plate on my Series 2 FFW.
Greg
Cheers 😉 I was thinking of two loops welded to the bottom surface of the crossmember either side of 'centre', nicely tucked up out of the way. I'll look at he helicopter lift point option too
Daryl
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Ah right, With the Series Rover you will have to come up with somewhere to attach the chains.
I've got some shackle points welded onto the pintle mounting plate on my Series 2 FFW.
Greg
Probably the best option.
You could also possibly mount these on the rear crossmember like the Perentie.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110985427338?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Ah right, With the Series Rover you will have to come up with somewhere to attach the chains.
I've got some shackle points welded onto the pintle mounting plate on my Series 2 FFW.
Greg
Cheers 😉 I was thinking of two loops welded to the bottom surface of the crossmember either side of 'centre', nicely tucked up out of the way.
Daryl
Like the Poms do:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-Military-NATO-tow-hitch-bracket-New-genuine-KNK500030-/291571049174?hash=item43e2fd22d6:g:rAEAAOSwQTVWAVhG
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Can anyone enlighten me with the size of the front jockey post.
The OD of the tube and size and thickness of the base plate so I can make one up??
Thanks
Adam
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Can anyone enlighten me with the size of the front jockey post.
The OD of the tube and size and thickness of the base plate so I can make one up??
Thanks
Adam
Gedday, I'll check mine on the 'morrow and post some pics as well if no one does before hand ;)
Daryl
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Ah right, With the Series Rover you will have to come up with somewhere to attach the chains.
I've got some shackle points welded onto the pintle mounting plate on my Series 2 FFW.
Greg
Probably the best option.
You could also possibly mount these on the rear crossmember like the Perentie.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110985427338?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Gedday Mick, thanks for that. I checked my crossmember, but there's no room for placement to the left of the pintle due to the proximity of the NATO plug. There's been another post for a genuine UK MOD adaptor plate with loops in this thread, that's tempting :D
Daryl
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Ah right, With the Series Rover you will have to come up with somewhere to attach the chains.
I've got some shackle points welded onto the pintle mounting plate on my Series 2 FFW.
Greg
Cheers 😉 I was thinking of two loops welded to the bottom surface of the crossmember either side of 'centre', nicely tucked up out of the way.
Daryl
Like the Poms do:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-Military-NATO-tow-hitch-bracket-New-genuine-KNK500030-/291571049174?hash=item43e2fd22d6:g:rAEAAOSwQTVWAVhG
Oooh I loike dis one fella! :D
cheers, Daryl
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Now with new wheels and tyres
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4468.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4473.jpg)
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Can anyone enlighten me with the size of the front jockey post.
The OD of the tube and size and thickness of the base plate so I can make one up??
Thanks
Adam
Gedday Adam
Here's the dimensions you requested, they're in inches:-
Stand post - dia is 1-3/8"; length: 2' 6"
Base plate - 5" square; thickness: 1/8"
There is a tang welded to the bottom of the post, when raising the post to lock it this tang slides though a slot athe top of the fitting, you twist the post and the tang stops it from sliding back down when driving (most undesirable)
height from base plate:- 1-3/8"
tang dimensions:- 3/4" x 3/16"
There is also a Government arrow stamped into the baseplate, if you want to replicate it.
regards, Daryl
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4482.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4480.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/lrman/IMG_4479.jpg)
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On my S2A FFT I attach the chains to the fitting that is part of the pintle hook attachment. I assumed this was standard?
Howard
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Hi All,
From memory I can't remember chains being used with the number 5 's and Series 3 Rovers ?
Not that I drove them with a trailer that often I might add.
Cheers,
Mick
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In service I don't recall chains in the 80s mine look to be a AFM fitting.
Yep on the series I use those holes on the pintle or the lift points
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No, chains wouldn't have been used on the S3s. It would have been a Perentie thing.
I think it was the ADRs that required chains on all trailers. The trailers would have been modified in service. My Crump & Cornish was.
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No, chains wouldn't have been used on the S3s. It would have been a Perentie thing.
I think it was the ADRs that required chains on all trailers. The trailers would have been modified in service. My Crump & Cornish was.
Correct, safety chains was an in service MOD (late - pretty sure for Perenties as was perentie rims etc)) as was the U shaped bracket (early) on the bottom of the tow bar that it sites on, there is a list of MODs and what the number on the MOD Plate corresponds to on the web site somewhere
cheers
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From the REMLR library:
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From the REMLR library:
So looks like s relatively new thing (2006 on)? I'm guessing either way I'll need them for rego (and peace of mind)
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From the REMLR library:
So looks like s relatively new thing (2006 on)? I'm guessing either way I'll need them for rego (and peace of mind)
Why not just run a chain through the U shape "foot" it sits on when not on the stand. Or secure it with D shackles to be more permanent. No one said they had to be welded on. This way best of both worlds keep it original and have peace of mind if it gets loose.
Cheers
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Have a read of this:
https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/~/media/files/documents/safety-and-road-rules/vsi9.ashx?la=en
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Thanks for the advice men (I'll get to that) For now I've just removed the lunette, lots of water affected grease and a bit of rust (all-in-all) a bit of a mess) How much end float is acceptable with the lunette?
Cheers, Daryl
PS- just read the VicRoads doc Scott, chains "may be welded to the drawbar providing the weld encompasses at least 50% of the link and the following link is free to move" . Your suggestion may be legal. The chain length needs to prevent the drawbar from touching the ground. Food for thought, for the trips it'll do that may suffice
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Maybe use this method for attaching chains to vehicles.
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Maybe use this method for attaching chains to vehicles.
That has merit, looks good and tidy, cheers Scott