Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
Land Rovers => Australian Series 3 & Stage 1 => Topic started by: Polizei on May 22, 2012, 11:52:09 PM
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Hi guys,
Looks like we are off to a new start.
So to test the waters...
Here is my 1980 109 GS project. In pretty much original condition. Has been used on a farm sparingly since being bought from an army auction back in the 90's.
I have a second 109 on GS which will probably be a parts car.
My first order of business is to get the old girl roadworthy so that I can take advantage of the historic registration in SA before it changes to include vehicles before 1979 only >:(
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(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0065-Version2.jpg)
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(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0066-Version2.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0073.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0091.jpg)
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Many of the nuts and bolts are severely rusted.
In particular I have had great trouble with the thermostat housing.
I have snapped two of these bolts, and no probably have an even bigger problem on my hands!!
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0075.jpg)
I can't even get the wheel nuts off yet >:(
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0087.jpg)
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anyone got a source for seat material? I seem to have a couple that were recovered. The seat backs all appear original.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0081.jpg)
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Gday Polizei!
I found LANOTEC spray worked well on my wheelnuts but maybe I was lucky, they were in a good dry climate. Im sure suggestions will come up and you can choose the best for you.
The broken bolts suck but try an easyout before you panic (but be very careful to not disturb the original thread)
as for the seats, couple options - 1) recover in canvas
2) check out EXMOOR TRIM in the UK (kits but wait until the dollar lifts against the pound again!)
3) leave them as is, they look good enough for rego and you can do them at any time.
What else do you need to do and who do you intend to rego thru (club wise)...
The wire netting over the canopy is interesting is it a farm addition or in service addition? (hopefully someone will know)
Did you get your ARNs?
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Basically my plan for rego is to perform a complete service and also do the brakes. Everything seems to be functioning despite the lack of recent maintenance.
It seems I have had the whole car soaking in WD40 to try and loosen all the nuts and bolts! I have tried a propane torch on the wheel nuts and loctite freeze and release, without luck. Lanotec will be next on the shopping list! That freeze and release is quite pricey at nearly $20 a can. I ended up getting one of the thermostat housing bolts out with a handheld impact drill. I think the rattling effect loosened it up, mind you it broke the other bolt. :o
I also got a big box of parts from Paddocks, hoses, gaskets, etc. So finally I can do a proper service.
Is the air filter serviceable? From what I can understand it is an oil bath sort, but I am not familiar with these.
In regards to the weld mesh that is over the canopy hoops, it was like this when purchased from the army auction. Even though the vehicle was not mine until recently, I have known the car ever since that time.
Anyone know why it might be there? I'll get some more pics on the weekend.
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The ARN
32-258
109
6/11/1980
Series 3
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I couldn't see any info regarding the unit its from etc
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Looks good.
I like the caged hoops.
Rusted nuts are a funny thing. I've had some on my 2A, and wouldn't budge. Sprayed with all sorts, used impact tools, breaker bars..... you name it. Things wouldn't budge. >:(
Come back a week later and the things are literally falling off and come off with bare fingers. :o
Drives you mad. :D
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air temps can make a difference, a very cold winter vs summer day has a significaant heat change in the materials, and as such, expansions of metals.
The cage is an interesting one, and i've seen vehicles in service photos with them fitted to help keep branches etc out of a vehicle, and equipment in. Maybe even a copy of those fitted to the 110 if it was a late service series 3.
My old series 3 had a ridgeple running down the center of the hoops above them which I removed because it was cutting into the canopy for example.
As to units, we add that info if and when we have any, so nothing for now is not to say nothing ever ;)
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My series 3 FFR I bought from army auction camp road Broadmeadows in 1991 had exactly the same weldmesh on top with the same canvas rapped around the edges, but it was very hard on the canopy, I took it off straight away but funnily enough as with all land rover stuff I kept it!
Regards
Scott
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Interesting you mention the mesh being hard on the canopy.
When I took the canvas off to trailer the vehicle home, I noticed a another large rectangle of canvas which had been placed over the cage - no doubt to minimise chaffing. I am sure that the hood has not been removed since it was originally bought from the army.
By the way it is hessian that is wrapped around the cage and front and rear hoops that you can see in the pic. There is also two lengths of hose the run from front to back along the lower edge, presumably to cover any sharp edges.
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The wheels are hopefully coming off tomorrow to get sand blasted and then power coated. My plan is to eventually paint over this with the olive drab when time permits.
I have been quoted $40 per wheel by a company called Hartech in Adelaide. This is for blasting and powder coating.
Does this sound like a sensible plan?
I have some second hand tyres ready to put on (Olympic Steel Treks), in preparation for registration. The old bar treads look the part but are cracked and probably won't hold up to scrutiny.
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Hi Polizei...the oil bath filter comes apart. The top just lifts off, the bottom unclips. The oil sits in the bottom, so be careful not to spill it all over you when you take it off ;) There is a sort of coarse steel wool in the bottom of the main body of the filter. It's pretty easy to give it all a clean up with degreaser or petrol once it's apart. You recharge it by putting oil back in the bottom section (takes about 800ml, but there is a line on it to show you where to fill to).
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt311/numptys_missus/Castrol/P1020251.jpg)
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HI, what is the writing on the passenger door? looks like GLENSTRAE ?? is it a farm name?
cheers
Scott
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HI, what is the writing on the passenger door? looks like GLENSTRAE ?? is it a farm name?
cheers
Scott
yes a farm name...it was stencilled on by the PO using a wool bale stencil.
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Hi Polizei...the oil bath filter comes apart. The top just lifts off, the bottom unclips. The oil sits in the bottom, so be careful not to spill it all over you when you take it off ;) There is a sort of coarse steel wool in the bottom of the main body of the filter. It's pretty easy to give it all a clean up with degreaser or petrol once it's apart. You recharge it by putting oil back in the bottom section (takes about 800ml, but there is a line on it to show you where to fill to).
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt311/numptys_missus/Castrol/P1020251.jpg)
Thanks Vixen,
What type of oil do you use. Is there a generic air filter oil? Or something with a particular specification?
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Engine oil...so whatever you decide to use in the motor ;)
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thanks vixen
Well a small bit of progress today. It looks like the 1m steel tube I bought today to use as a breaker bar was what the wheel nuts needed. Or maybe it was that squirt of lanotec ;). Anyway it look like I will have the wheels of and ready for sand blasting tomorrow.
Another issue that has arisen is an issue with the starter motor. I am having the solenoid clicking, nothing happening issue. I can start the engine if I run a jumper lead from the battery to the starter so I think it might be a bad earth. It seemed to happen after I had washed the engine after degreasing last weekend so I am not sure if there is water somewhere that shouldn't be there??
I need to get myself a proper workshop manual...
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Check the links I posted in "general Chat" for online workshop manuals etc......you are bound to find one I'm sure. Won't be specifically for ex-mil but will be OK for what you need ;D
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=62.0
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Check the links I posted in "general Chat" for online workshop manuals etc......you are bound to find one I'm sure. Won't be specifically for ex-mil but will be OK for what you need ;D
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=62.0
Thanks again Vixen
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Hi there
Its a nice original vehicle and hope to see it at a few SA club outings.
All the best
Wayne
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So, another day in the shed...
Wheels are now off. Unfortunately I was too late to get them to the tyre shop. I was going to get them to take the tyres of the rims, but ended up doing this with one of those R&R bead breakers we had lying around, and a bit of brute force. A thankless task!
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0185.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0193.jpg)
With the tyres of it is easy to see that the lips on some of the rims are dented. How significant is this? My understanding is that the bead will lie on the inner part of the rim and a bent lip won't have a noticeable effect, other than an aesthetic one. That being said, now that they are off is it worth fixing the dents and is it an expensive process? If I am going to the effort of sand blasting and powder coating it would be a shame to leave them dented.
After all of that I had a chance to have a play with a couple of paint/rust removing wheels. They certainly seemed to do a better job than the old wire wheel. Much improved after only a few mins.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0199.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0186.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0200.jpg)
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Oh yeah here is one of the bent rim
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/bentrim.jpg)
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There also seems to be some filler in the passenger door. Is this unusual for an army car?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0196.jpg)
Getting these buggers off will be next
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0102.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0101.jpg)
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Hi, give the bent rims a hit with a small sledge hammer and they will straighten up easily, don't worry about being out of balance your S3 won't go fast enoug to give you any problems!
The jerry can holders are really hard to get off, glad I don't have to do it again, lol
I use a 50/50 mix of lindseed oil and diesel as a rust inhibitor on chassis and also in the holes in the chassis pump a heap in.
I get my rims sand blasted and epoxy undercoat for $20 each then spray them myself with protec paint camo green.
Thanks for showing us your resto, keep up the good work
Cheers
Scott
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Bog (body filler) hmmmmm.......check out what WAS on mine and what IS on it now ;D http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=20.0
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Hi, give the bent rims a hit with a small sledge hammer and they will straighten up easily, don't worry about being out of balance your S3 won't go fast enoug to give you any problems!
Yeah I thought as much re the speed!
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Bog (body filler) hmmmmm.......check out what WAS on mine and what IS on it now ;D http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=20.0
thanks for sharing your thread vixen, I hadn't seen it yet. LOTS of bog!
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Hi there
I have been quoted $40 per wheel by a company called Hartech in Adelaide. This is for blasting and powder coating.
Thats a good price - can you PM me there contact details please
All the best
Wayne
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Hartech Pty Ltd
Abrasive Blasting - Hindmarsh, SA
34 Adam St, Hindmarsh SA 5007, Australia
(08) 8340 3477
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The paint/rust removal wheels are a new one to me, I've only ever seen, and used, the wire wheels. Where do they come from??
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Flapper wheels are good too Phoenix. Available from hardwares, so I assume those others would be too (and I have not seen those either)
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They are from Bunnings. I think someone was using them on the AULRO forum as I hadn't heard of them either until then.
I think they are a little more expensive, than the wire wheels, but seem faster. Probably safer too
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G'day All,
Electric drills are not designed to use that type of gear, I mean it's your gear, but electric drills are meant to just what it says drill holes, not ?? radial pressure as you would using the drill will shorten the life of the tool, just my muddled thoughts, cheers Dennis
ps buy a angle grinder, use flapper sander wheels, or if you have a compressor a good quality die grinder (Chicago Pnuematics) and use the wire wheels, or again flapper discs,,. still good work though.
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Had some time in the shed today and made a tiny bit of progress.
I took the rear part of the exhaust off as there is a break next to an old weld. Hopefully I will be able to have this rewelded otherwise it will be a replacement. Where to folks get there exhausts?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0146.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0145.jpg)
Gave it a go with the rust remover wheel also. Came up pretty good.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0148.jpg)
After that I turned my attention to getting the thermostat housing off. Easy outs were no good. Grab-its were no good. Brute force - no good either!
The thermostat housing was very badly corroded so I went at it with the angle grinder. Once off there were a couple of bolt stumps protruding but I was still unable to move these. I think I am at the point of needing some expert assistance before I make the problem worse.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0149.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0151.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0159.jpg)
There is a heap of crud inside the housing itself. I flushed everything before I started, but obviously didn't do much! Is there a better way to clean the cooling system?
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Had a go with some Penetrene on the rear drums. Spreads very well
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0200.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0147.jpg)
After that I also had a crack at tidying up and cleaning the air filter. It definitely hadn't been cleaned in a while! I have some grass reads that have somehow made their way into the wire mesh. I don't think I can get them all out. Will this be an issue?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0157.jpg)
And finally with a fresh coat of black.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0158.jpg)
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I took the rear part of the exhaust off as there is a break next to an old weld. Hopefully I will be able to have this rewelded otherwise it will be a replacement. Where to folks get there exhausts?
Hi,
I take my to a normal Exhaust workshop but cut off all the connection even those on the muffler, they will weld them on, it keeps it original
Regards
Scott
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Thanks Scott
Took the broken exhaust down to the local exhaust shop. Definitely the way to go. I have been quoted a couple of hundred bucks for a new rear section including muffler. Seemed reasonable $ wise. Should be ready by the end of the week...
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Good progress cobber!
For the broken studs on the cylinder head I usually do the following:
1. Sand or file the studs flat, being extremely careful not to sand the cylinder head itself. If the stud stands proud of the head that is a good thing.
2. With a very sharp prick-punch lightly mark the centre of the stud with the gentlest tap of a hammer.
3. Check that the punch mark is centred. If it is off-centre, put the punch in the mark and lean it over until is pointing towards the centre and give it another tap.
4. When the mark is centred, give it a firm whack to increase the depth of the mark, whilst the punch is plumb to the stud axis.
5. Select a HSS drill bit as a pilot - for a 1/4" stud I would use about a 3mm drill bit; generally a bit 1/2 the size of the tapping drill will work well on small studs - and then commence drilling. You will need at least one assistant with a good eye to help line the drill bit up to plumb. This is absolutely essential if the operation is to succeed.
6. Using frequent brushings of soluble oil on the bit, gauge how deep you have drilled by measuring the depth of the hole on the one you have the bolt in. You may even feel the drill bit break through into the cavity below the stud.
7. When the pilot hole is complete, commence drilling with the tapping-drill, which can be found from a tapping-chart if you know the diameter of the stud and preferably the thread. I bought a left hand drill bit some time ago, which can unwind a lightly stuck thread; in my case of the six fasteners I had to drill, it unwound one of them.
8. When you finished drilling two things are likely to have happened: if all went well the thread is still full of old stud, which can be carefully cleaned out with a taper-tap; or if you have drilled off-line, more work will be needed. In the second case you will need to purchase a re-thread kit such as Helicoil and follow the directions in the kit to restore the thread.
Finally before fitting the new studs you will need to consider the following: the originals rusted in place because water leaked from the cooling system and into the thread, so this needs to be remedied. So either use an anti-seize paste on the thread to protect it, or use a thread-locking fluid such as Loctite, which has the additional benefit of glueing the probably not-perfect-thread solidly in place onto the stud.
Let me know if you want me to make you a new housing,
Cheers Charlie
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Thanks for the tips.
The old housing was destroyed when I tried to remove it. I imagine this would make it much harder to copy??
Anyway I might have a source on one form the uk.
Cheers
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The old housing was destroyed when I tried to remove it. I imagine this would make it much harder to copy??
Not necessarily; I have made new castings using originals in similar condition to yours before,
Cheers Charlie
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Re the mesh under the canopy. I understood it was done in the late eighties to relieve the pressure from the Cam nets and poles that we started loading on top. Greg ;)
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Re the mesh under the canopy. I understood it was done in the late eighties to relieve the pressure from the Cam nets and poles that we started loading on top. Greg ;)
Thanks Greg. Makes sense!
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Had a few hours in the shed today and got a few more tasks done.
Picked up my new exhaust which went in relatively easily. I have a question for anyone else out there with a similar vintage 109 GS. Where does the exhaust normally exit? My exhaust exits behind the left rear mudflap and angles towards the side of the vehicle. It does not protrude at all beyond the edge of the vehicle and is a little recessed. My new pipe exits right behind where the mudflap would usually be and points towards the back corner of the vehicle. It may need a little more adjusting but I thought it would find out what is correct before doing anything else.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0160.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0168.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0169.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0170.jpg)
After that I removed my old broken axel straps. I was under the impression that these don't really serve a purpose and it is ok to do without them. Nevertheless I ordered a replacement from Paddocks and it is shorter than the old strap. So much so that I can't fit it. Is this usually the case? Do they stretch? Is there a trick to fitting these?
I also managed pulled off my passenger side mirror as the arm was badly rusted. Whilst removing the mirror the rusted bolt snapped (another one!).
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0163.jpg)
I managed to fix this up but when I removed the back of the mirror the rubber surround which holds it all together was so brittle that it broke. Does anyone know of a replacement source for these?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0161.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0162.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0164.jpg)
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Hi, the exhaust looks good but cant help as i have ffr's and the exhaust is under the front brush bar. The straps need to be military ones which are longer due to the extended spring shackles, they are available to buy.
Cheers
Scott
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Hi, I've just started reading this thread. Looks like you're doing a great job. Those rusted threads can be a real challenge!! Has the vehicle been exposed to salt air?
I notice that in the photo of the wheels, the one at the back right is a different model (2a perhaps) than the other three. Also, if you need a usable thermostat housing I can probably find one that I could donate. Please let me know if you would like it.
In the meantime keep up the good work!
regards,
cookey
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(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0193.jpg)
G'day cookie
Series 2/2A :D
Looks like you will need to track down another S3 rim Polizei ;)
I enjoy reading this thread.
Stuart
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Yes the wheel that looks different is the spare.
I thought it was just painted different on the inside, but it looks like the centre is stamped differently also.
I can't check as the wheel are off getting a makeover!
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Has the vehicle been exposed to salt air?
Also, if you need a usable thermostat housing I can probably find one that I could donate.
The vehicle came off a farm. Often the water lying around was quite brackish. I think this contributed to the poor state of the fasteners
Am in desperate need of a thermostat housing. Thanks very much! I'll PM you
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Progress is still rather slow as I am only able to spend an afternoon a week on it.
I had a couple of old tins of Wattyl Olive Drab from when I used to have a workshop trailer a long time ago. This paint must be 15 years old.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0190.jpg)
Anyway I thought after watching a great youtube video on painting a car with a roller I would try this method out.
So after a bit of a rub down with a scourer these are the results.
Before:
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0187.jpg)
After:
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0191.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0193.jpg)
The tin said to use 1 part paint to 1.5 parts thinners, but as you can see it has come out a little thin in a couple of spots.
I used a 160mm flocked roller which left a very consistent finish. The downside is that despite giving it a good wash before, some of the small flocking fibres came off. Other people have had luck with foam rollers although this can cause bubbling issues also.
Anyway I think this technique with a bit of refinement will meet my needs.
My wheels which are off for restoration will hopefully be back this week. Once they are fitted, and I have done a couple of other jobs it will be time for rego!
After this I will attend to the cosmetics properly
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The mirror looks like a Moke mirror. I've seen a few listed on ebay in recent times.
You may wish to research the style of mirror that was originally on them as my experience with Moke mirrors has not been a happy one.
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The mirror looks like a Moke mirror. I've seen a few listed on ebay in recent times.
You may wish to research the style of mirror that was originally on them as my experience with Moke mirrors has not been a happy one.
I have glued it all up at the moment until I find a replacement. Thanks for the tip.
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A bit more progress.
A big thanks to Cookey for the thermostat housing. Scrubbed up very nicely!
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0214.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0213.jpg)
Wheel got back from being refurbished. Given that there were some quite significant dents they got rolled, hammered etc, and sand blasted followed by powder coating.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0212.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0209.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0211.jpg)
Finally, I had my olympic steel treks put onto the wheels today but no photos yet. Bought new tubes etc also. The whole wheel refurb process has been a little more expensive than I wanted but I think the results are worth it.
The plan is to attend to a few more odds and ends this weekend and then get the historic registration sorted before the end of the month.
Fingers crossed!
Cheers
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Damn my big post just disappeared..
Second time lucky.
Put wheels and tyres on today. I had a ?series 2 wheel that was previously my spare restored. I have fitted it at the back, but the wheel spacing is a bit different to the others.
I also pulled the jerry can holders today. It was a pig of a job. I was concerned that this would be where the rust was if it was anywhere. After cleaning it up with a wire wheel I was left with a small 20c piece size hole on each side. Didn't get a pic of this unfortunately. But you can see the before shots. Not sure how to best fix this and if just welding in some fresh pieces of steel would be simple. There is a fair bit of room between the jerry can holder mounting holes and the rust hole on each side so this should be able to be left intact. The holes are just towards centre of the body mount you can see in the pic. The jerry can holders themselves are also rusted, especially the bottoms. I guess welding in new steel bottoms will be required here. In the meantime the are getting rust converted.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0219.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0225.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0226.jpg)
Also took the blackout lights off for safe keeping. Can you sill get the electrical connectors the army used?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0218.jpg)
Also took of the sole mud flap. Looked a bit lonely on its own. I was surprised that it was white given that its an army car. Did the army paint the flaps sometimes?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0227.jpg)
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Yeah Jerry can holders always tough, and sometimes not so good behind them.
The wiring on the blackouts should come apart and go back together later.
The Mud flap is original and very scarce now, and they where white in service on the series 3. Keep your eye open for a second and grab it if you see it.
Cheers
Scott
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Here are some better pics of the rust in the rear cross member. Its basically the same on the other side.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0230.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0229.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0228.jpg)
Outside with new tyres on. The door is painted with the wrong olive drab I am informed.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0231.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0233.jpg)
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The olive looks fine to me but the easiest way to check, is to find an unfaded piece of paint under the seats perhaps and compare it your Wattyl one,
Cheers Charlie
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When I presented my similar model FFR for RWC in Vic, those S3 army rims were knocked back due to the rib around the centre of the wheel nut holes. The testers were ex army mechanics from Puckapunyal, so they were quite familiar with these machines.
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When I presented my similar model FFR for RWC in Vic, those S3 army rims were knocked back due to the rib around the centre of the wheel nut holes. The testers were ex army mechanics from Puckapunyal, so they were quite familiar with these machines.
Sounds very odd. as the rib is there to strenghen the rim, the flat disc on the S2/S2A rims sometimes buckled when worked hard. Sounds like you got a couple of blokes in a bad mood!
regards
Scott
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May be related to tension.
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So i understand correctly you are saying that the inspectors thought it was a fault?
If they were supplied originally like this and australian complianced how can this be an issue?
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Good news today!
Took the old girl to her government inspection today.
Ticked all the boxes.
Now has historic registration!!!
The was a bit of a scare when the brake lights decided not to work, but turned out to be nothing more than a loose fuse.
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Congratulations!
Any pics
Regards
Scott
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It may relate to the length of the studs as I recall another LROCV member telling me he had the same problem.
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No more pics yet. Vehicle looks as it did in the last post with pics.
Tomorrow though, is another day...
I had some professional help to remove the snapped bolts from the thermostat housing. There were a few thing that I just wouldn't have been able to do in time for the historic rego (rules were changing so that only vehicles built before 1979 were eligible - this vehicle is a 1980).
My front drive shaft is very worn and this is next on the to do list. I have seen some online at widely ranging prices. It is my understanding that the short wheel base and long wheel base models are different lengths??
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No more pics yet. Vehicle looks as it did in the last post with pics.
Tomorrow though, is another day...
I had some professional help to remove the snapped bolts from the thermostat housing. There were a few thing that I just wouldn't have been able to do in time for the historic rego (rules were changing so that only vehicles built before 1979 were eligible - this vehicle is a 1980).
My front drive shaft is very worn and this is next on the to do list. I have seen some online at widely ranging prices. It is my understanding that the short wheel base and long wheel base models are different lengths??
Depending on what mean by word drive shaft but if itis the uni joints it isnt too hard to change the yolk and roller pins, 2.6 engine vs 2 1/4 engine are different length drive shafts and civilian and army are slightly diff lenghs.
Regards
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Hi Polizei, congrats on getting you rego fixed up in time. After reading back thru this thread I see mention of the wire reo under the canopy. I have never seen this on Sydney based vehicles, however I believe it was common south of the border. Check out the photos posted up by Dave Goodman under the Series 3 section --- mine damage tests. Also reminds me of a certain workshop trailer I purchased form a very nice South Aussie guy some time ago.................
Also, the Aussie style series 3 rims were introduced to overcome wheel nuts working loose in service. When tensioned correctly the raised section around the stud holes flexes inward and puts a loading on the retainers (sort of works like a spring washer). In my experience these are the best rims to use. If tensioned correctly, they DO NOT work loose.
Cookey
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Also, the Aussie style series 3 rims were introduced to overcome wheel nuts working loose in service. When tensioned correctly the raised section around the stud holes flexes inward and puts a loading on the retainers (sort of works like a spring washer). In my experience these are the best rims to use. If tensioned correctly, they DO NOT work loose.
Cookey
Ahh...makes perfect.
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I am not sure what the correct term is but here is the front prop shaft / drive shaft that I need to replace.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0236.jpg)
There is a lot of play where the splines are.
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I have to get this one home soon. I was planning on using it as parts car, but now I am not so sure.... ;D ;D ;D Probably not an economical restoration though.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0046-1.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0039-1.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/DSCF0038-1.jpg)
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Hi Polizei,
re the front prop shaft.
the female splined part...........Splined end, front propeller shaft.................P/N JJ8407
the male splined part..............Shaft end, front propeller shaft....................P/N 601790
the end flanges.......................Yoke, universal joint (same both ends)........P/N 600656
the rubber boot.......................Boot, dust P/N R276483
I may have a shaft with good splines.....will check and see. You will probably have to replace the uni's and dust boot. Not sure what postage will cost though.
Let me know if you are interested.
Cookey
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Thanks Diana for the link
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Haven't had much time to spend on the old girl recently.
I made up some wooden blocks for the jerry can holders. A couple of the old ones were still in place to make copies from, although the are on their last legs.
How were these actually attached? I can see a couple of holes in the metal plate behind them, but their are no bolt holes in the front of the wood itself. I guess there is some nifty way to do it so there is no metal on metal contact with the fuel can.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0243.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0245.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0244.jpg)
As I mentioned in another thread I got myself some of the protec spray cans in 342-1166 'camouflage green'. The 4L tins were out of stock. I was going to apply the paint with a small foam roller. There is a nice youtube guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c--i4f5924I , where they seem to get good results. I know a sprayer would probably give me better results, but as I have never used one before I thought the roller would be a safe option. I also intend to paint the chassis (body on) at some stage, and a sprayer would be a bit easier for this you'd think. Decisions, decisions...
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HI,
my Jerry can marine ply was held in place by counter sunk self tapping screws when I bought it out of the army.
Regards
Scott
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I removed the two pieces of jerry can ply today that hadn't already fallen off. They were actually stuck on with an adhesive of some sort. So it looks like the army affixed them by a couple of methods.
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Spent the rest of the day rubbing down the bodywork with an abrasive pad. A little more prep work and she should be ready for painting.
Picked up 4L of the camouflage green from Protec and some mineral turps for thinning. Starting to lean towards spraying it on. Will need to buy a spray gun though. Any recommendations?
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Buy a good brand, such as Star, for the spray gun - mine is a gravity feed gun (has the pot on top) which makes spraying horizontal surfaces easier.
The compressor needs to be at least 16 cubic feet per minute for continuous spraying but I get by nicely with 10 cfm for my projects.
By a good quality respirator as well; as breathing in gas and particulates is a sure-fire way to die younger than you should have.
Remember that good results in spray painting require 95% preparation and 5% painting time.
If you haven't sprayed before you will need a clean clear area and good lighting and buy a book or magazine which details how to do it.
Good luck - it is good fun and rather easy if you follow the rules,
Cheers Charlie
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Thanks for the tips charlie re the spraying.
I have a question regarding keyed ignitions for army land rovers. My vehicle has a knob with a hose clamp that you twist to start it. It is in the usual position a keyed ignition would be. What is the best way to swap this over for a keyed version?
Would this be the right part?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SERIES-LAND-ROVER-PETROL-IGNITION-BARREL-AND-KEY-/270281723485?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item3eee0bce5d#ht_1595wt_1081
At the moment when I park it on the street somewhere there is nothing to stop someone driving off!!
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Why not wire an immobilizer into the system. Put the switch where it can't be seen. No one will drive off with it if they can't start it ;)
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Bush bar off today and a bit of a tidy up for the jerry can holders. The bolts for the bar like everything else required more than a little brute force.
All the loose paint scrubbed of with angle grinder, stripper wheel and the soaked in penetrol ready for paint.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0268.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0265.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0267.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0266.jpg)
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Great stuff Polizei :D Most interesting thread.
It may be worth placing rubber or stainless steel washers between the jerry can holders and rear cross member to prevent any ongoing rust issues. The washers (acting as a spacer) will allow moisture (and air) to flow through without getting trapped.
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Great stuff Polizei :D Most interesting thread.
It may be worth placing rubber or stainless steel washers between the jerry can holders and rear cross member to prevent any ongoing rust issues. The washers (acting as a spacer) will allow moisture (and air) to flow through without getting trapped.
Thx tommy that is a great idea. If they had done this in the first place I am sure much rust would have been avoided in many a rear cross member.
The jerry can holders have a small box section welded inside against which the tie downs and wooden blocks sit. There was a lot of debris inside this still box section which no doubt contributed to the rust in the base of the jerry can holder. I haven't thought of a work around for that yet. Perhaps its just one of those things that requires ongoing attention to keep clean.
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If you do use stainless spacers, coat them with silastic or something similar, otherwise they will accelerate corrosion where they touch,
Cheers Charlie
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I was actually thinking along the lines of some polyurethane spacers...
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So, a bit of a break with the project over the last few months.
I was up to the point of wanting to start painting the old girl but this was impossible for me during winter.
Well its summer now and after receiving a spray gun for christmas its time to get this project back on track!
This is the model I was given http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Star-S106-Gravity-Spray-Gun-/251010572058?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a71655f1a&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1413
I thought the best plan of attack would be to respray the chassis first then do the body. I am doing this with the body on though, which is making the chassis part a little awkward.
So far, using a high pressure hose I have cleaned all the dirt and 95% of the grease off the chassis. This has taken several attempts. Its amazing how much dirt has come off! The chassis was originally black but was over sprayed with olive drab at some stage. There is now a mixture of these coats and some areas where it has come off completely and left surface rust.
I would still like to use a wax and grease removal type product but these seem to be wipe on wipe off, which would be too time consuming for me to fiddle around with and I still will not be able to get into every nook and cranny. Does anyone have a spray on hose off recommendation?
After this final clean my plan was to use my spray gun to undercoat everything in Penetrol. I have had much success with this on other metal components with surface rust and it saves me from taking everything back to bare metal.
This will be followed by several coats of Protec black 300 QD Enamel (I bought this at the same time as the olive drab) to bring it back to its original colour.
I will probably also put a waxsol type product over everything at the end and spray this into the chassis members.
If anyone has any comments or tips for the above that would be great. Nothing is set in stone yet. This vehicle probably isn't going to see hard use again, but I do want a finish which is relatively durable and more importantly prevent the existing areas of minor rust from worsening.
Cheers and Happy New Year
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Just looking at my build plate today and noticed that its mentions winch.
Does that mean my vehicle originally had a winch?
See below
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/DSCF0082_zps7a9b5438.jpg)
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A photo of the chassis clean up today
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0478_zps28dbbd9e.jpg)
I ended up buying one of the KBS chassis paint kits - satin black.
Should work well. It really is awkward doing this with the body on...
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Fuel tank support rust
Any opinions on the best way to fix this?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/IMG_0471_zps14b03a2b.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/IMG_0470_zps5fe03a54.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/IMG_0469_zpsc1455c70.jpg)
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Aren't they all soldered together, or is the outer part welded? Remove and repair. The series 3 tank is pretty easy to remove truth be told!
Re the data plate, the series 3 ones noted both on them, note it says 6028 , 6028B, covers all bases!
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Your rusted support is the twin of my S3 one!
I have started doing the following:
1. Remove tank and remove sender unit; pick-up pipe and filler hose.
2. Inspect inside of tank - mine was filled with a foul-smelling varnish that was once petrol.
3. Replace sender and pick-up and fill tank with caustic soda solution.
4. Flush tank with high-pressure garden hose.
5. Repeat 3&4 with tank upside down.
The next steps, which I haven't started yet are to:
6. Heat the base of the support plate where it is still soldered onto the tank and remove plate. SAFETY DO NOT do this if the tank has recently had fresh petrol in it; send it away to be professionally cleaned by experts. In my case the risk of explosion seems to be very low, especially with the sender; pick-up and drain plug removed.
7. Make new support plate.
8. De-rust base of tank and treat with Penetrol.
9. Glue new base in place with Sikaflex Adhesive.
Cheers Charlie
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When I had my Series 2A FFW. I had a leaky tank and found that 3M make a fuel resistant glue which I coated the inside of the tank with.
Basically you pour a goodly quantity in the tank, move it around to coat the affected areas, then pour it out and let dry for 2 weeks.
It worked great and was still good 3 years later when I sold it.
I know that is not your issue, but it might help others with small leaks/weeps from their tanks
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http://www.kbs-coatings.com/auto-fuel-tank-sealer-kit.html
I was thinking of using this to restore tanks if I was going to all this trouble.
I already have Aqua Klean and Rust Blaster from the chassis pack I bought. Would only need to purchase the fuel tank sealer.
It is highly probably my tank is full of lots of muck >:(
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Redkote http://www.ftrs.com.au/redkote/red_kote.php worked well in Castrol's tanks. Sealed a couple of larger holes (ie clearly visible holes not just pinprick sized) and has stayed sealed for maybe 5yrs now
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I have just completed a trial on a rusty baked-beans tin using the glue used for joining PVC pipes together - Back In on AULRO mentioned it some time ago - anyway the results so far on the tin are excellent for both diesel and petrol; and a fraction of the price compared to the proprietary kits. Caustic soda is is fantastically good for removing grease, oil and petrol gum; also at a fraction of the price,
Cheers Charlie
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Thanks Charlie I will look into it.
Cheers,
Ed
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Anyone have strong opinions on the colour of the chassis?
I assume they all came from the factory black, but over the years were often over sprayed with olive drab. As you can see mine was over sprayed with the olive drab.
Either way I am going to put on the black but I may then top coat with green if 'more correct'
Cheers
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KBS Rust Sealer
Sprayed on chassis this morning. There are a few awkward spots I cant get to with the gun.
Looking good! Few areas of overspray will be taken care of when I do the body.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0501_zps9cde2644.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0505_zps01a22ae5.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0478_zps28dbbd9e.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0504_zps76c5c753.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0502_zps6b7478d4.jpg)
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Looking good!
\
Yes, mostly new was black chassis, but many were oversprayed.
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So...after a long delay I finally got around to sorting out the body today. Paint went on really well. I also had a few aerosol cans to touch up any minor areas I missed. The colour match was perfect between the two so no worries there.
Next to paint will be the wheels, bull bar and air lift brackets. Reassemble and then on to the mechanics.
I think it looks pretty good!
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0719_zps2d4b3f1c.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0720_zps461b87e5.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0721_zps10a99836.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0722_zpsf9a73daa.jpg)
First coat
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0723_zps35438c51.jpg)
Second coat
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0724_zpscd171b42.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0725_zps7b01e2d7.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0726_zps2dddef56.jpg)
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A thing of beauty, I look forward to seeing the finished job.
Well done that man...
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More olive goodness!
Did the wheels, bullbar and rear jerry can holders. Once again paint went on well without any issues. 20% thinners seams to work well.
Anyway I only have a few photos half way through. Wish I had painted the rims before the tyres went on, but for various reasons this was not possible at the time.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0728_zpsf2731a18.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0727_zpsbb3989cd.jpg)
Bullbar got a coat of penetrol before olive
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0729_zps0ad0ee7a.jpg)
My spray gun
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0730_zps011e59e2.jpg)
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Hi Ed
Interesting that you use an 80-20 mixture in your gun. I use a HVLP gun with a 50-50 mixture at about 30psi. What pressure you running in yours?
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30-35 psi
I spoke to the guys at protec re thinning. The guy said start are 20% and inreaseto 25% if necessary. Seemed to o on fine at 20...
50% sounds very thinned out!
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That's what I thought but is what was recommended to me. I think I may take your example and give it a shot. Thankyou for the information.
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This is also useful
http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/342%20Camouflage%20Enamel%20Rev%20Nov%202011.pdf
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Here are a few more pics.
Last weekend got my original set of wheels painted, but one of these is a S2 wheel (2nd from right)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0732_zps825d244c.jpg)
So to get the one extra wheel I needed I ended up acquiring 4 more of gumtree. I had another two S3 wheels but these were very rusty.
Below are two of the new wheels and two old rusty wheels.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0737_zps59fdaa20.jpg)
The rusty wheels were put aside and two from the new set were sanded back a bit
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0738_zps1f1b19b5.jpg)
Even these had some surface rust on the metal against the tubes.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0739_zps29664c8d.jpg)
And 1st coat with a couple of door tops
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0744_zps2efea569.jpg)
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What colour should the number plate light be?
White, off white, other??
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0740_zpsc8a16a82.jpg)
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Anyone got a good source for these reverse lights? Need two.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0743_zps378a1956.jpg)
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HI, the reversing lenses are as scarce as and not manufactured anymore, I've seen two sets on ebay on the last 5 years! and I bought them both, seem to be about $50 a lens..., most people swap them over for the clearance lights from the front which are a bit smaller but only the rivet counters will tell you there not right!
The number plate light are normally over sprayed with Olive drab but sometimes stay black, never seen one white before.
cheers
Scott
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correct me if im wrong but arnt the reversing lights interchaneable with 110 county ?
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The white lic plate light looks to be off a civvy truck and no the reversing lights aren't the same a defender ones unfortunately ;)
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Those licence plate lights should be black.
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Those licence plate lights should be black.
Thanks. I can see a bit of black on the top of mine. Perhaps it has just faded back to the primer. I am pretty sure its not a civvy replacement
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Got a few more odds and ends done today.
I have started restoring these. I have a couple of sets and the white band appears to be a different width on both. I had to grind the bolts to get them off initially.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0761_zps5dee477e.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0760_zpsbe138940.jpg)
Tackled the dreaded heater tap.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0763_zps5e59c457.jpg)
I read on other threads that you can use a falcon item. I would also be happy with a manual tap, but I haven't seen pics of this done.
would this be a correct replacement?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290923096373?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0766_zps622f22d0.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0770_zps572be007.jpg)
Also removed the old vent hose as I have a replacement and destroyed it in the process. I think it will be a bugger the new one on...
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0768_zps730afe73.jpg)
Also refitted my bush bar, but waiting for the air lift points above to be finished. The aluminium bumper is pretty bent in the middle. I assume they used to use it as a recovery point - anyone?
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0771_zps29074215.jpg)
Final question: If my chassis is black does that mean the jerry can holders should also be black? Might need to repaint them...
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0773_zpsf19a86d0.jpg)
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HI,
This photo is of my S3 FFR back in 1990 when I first bought it off the auctions, the rear cross member was OD and the Jerry can holders OD.
I've since re painted it and left the rear cross member black and jerry cans black
My helicopter lifts never had white stripes, (all three of them)
Can't help with heater, I actually pulled it out, they hardly worked when new, my 300TDI the heater hardly works but finally my Puma the heater works too well! so only took them 60 years to get the heaters working!
pretty common for a drag chain to be rapped around the bumper to pull or be pulled and bend the back side in/down
Hope this helps
Scott
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waiting for the air lift points above to be finished. The aluminium bumper is pretty bent in the middle. I assume they used to use it as a recovery point - anyone?
The bumper is made of steel and it is galvanised - not aluminium. Some Bozo has probably used it as a towing point, but the lifting eyes have towing eyes on the front of them, where an A-frame could be connected.
The colour of the jerry can racks may have been black once; however; the chassis were all definitely black when they were new; but as in FFRMAN's car they were often sprayed olive-drab during service life, so either answer is correct.
For the Army to buy them with black chassis and bright galvanising, was probably an economical objective, because it made no sense in a camouflage debate,
Cheers Charlie
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The white stripes on the recovery points related to an EMEI in (I think) reinforcing the mountings for them. The stripes indicated that the job had been done, hence the variation.
My series 3 had black chassis and black jerry can holders still, seems to be a combination of those left, and those resprayed over the chassis crossmember.
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Thanks everyone for the comments.
I think I will paint my jerry can holders black so the match the chassis for now. When it starts looking shabby again I can go nuts with the olive drab ;D
I have just finished repainting my air lifts, white stripe and all:
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/12b6ed23-eed8-448a-804f-73d478c57d84_zps4967fce7.jpg)
I was going to straighten the bumper but I kind of like the patina of it dings and all so it will stay as is for now.
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They look the goods.... well done !!
PJ
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lift mounts installed
new number plate board also
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0787_zpsb279deda.jpg)
Also having some electrical issues currently. My charging light has been staying on permanently. I swapped in another used alternator but now it wont even turn over. If the alternator is the issue I would be keen to upgrade the Lucas 15 AC with something more contemporary. Is there a good bolt in upgrade? (I posted this over on AULRO)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0803_zps4fc47555.jpg)
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So not much progress with my alternator situation, but have found a number of modern alternatives which should work.
Am planning to do a minor upgrade here in due course.
Installed some new headlights today that I bought some time ago. These are halogen upgrades. I probably will need to upgrade the wiring for these at some stage also. The reflector doesn't look the same as the original sealed beams but I am happy with the outcome considering the cost of these which should do a good job.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0928_zps5711494e.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0929_zps5d04c0c3.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0930_zps4c26d6c4.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0931_zps440f4a89.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_0932_zpsf2f10342.jpg)
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Hi
Re your search for a heater tap 'I fitted one of these to my 2a worked fine,
I hope I've done the link right? If not e-bay type in
HEATER TAP 5/8" UNIVERSAL FORD HOLDEN CHEV MOPAR ETC
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110710990168?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1215wt_1255 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110710990168?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1215wt_1255)
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thanks for the link
Does anyone have any tips for getting the heater air intake hose back on. My old one was perished and I have a grey plastic type replacement. I cant seem to squeeze it in under the mudguard down to the lower hole that comes off the fan.
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Headlight upgrade looks vey good.. :)
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Put a new alternator in recently which I posted over on AULRO.
Ended up getting an OEX unit, which fits well, but I am having issues with the charge light coming on after a short period. I think it might be a diode problem now, and I am hopeless at the electrics so it will probably need an auto elec to sort this out further.
In the meantime there are plenty of other jobs to be done. I recently bought a engine side cover gasket as mine is leaking, but now I come to fit it I thought I would ask if anyone has any tips.
Do I need to remove the manifold or can it be done from underneath?
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I removed the oil filter then the dipstick tube from underneath and then you can remove the sidecover without disturbing the manifold.
Hop on top of the engine to check/adjust the tappets.
(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg594/cradley/Series%203%20FFR/DSCF2511_zps50894090.jpg) (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20FFR/DSCF2511_zps50894090.jpg.html)
Colin
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Ed,I will have a look at alt problem when Im down.PM sent.
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Time for another update.
Big thanks to John H for trying to solve my charge light / alternator woes when he was down in Adelaide recently. It appeared at the time that my ignition connections were dodgy as fiddling around with them made the light go off and allowed alternator to provide a 14v charge. After properly cleaning all the contacts though the problem was back and made me think that perhaps the unit itself was faulty.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1300_zps296bb0f0.jpg)
Since then I have replaced the ignition with a new keyed unit, which I planned to do anyway. I replaced the indicator/headlight stalk at the same time as mine was faulty.
I also bought a soft top off John and despite the top section having shrunk, I have managed to mostly stretch this back over the rear hoop. It has been a tricky balance as the sides are older canvas which is quite thin in some areas. There was probably at least 5 inches that needed to be stretched out of the top piece as even the rear straps were not long enough to close. I achieved this by using ratchet straps connected to the reinforced straps and wetting the canvas down. The top needed to be retensioned every couple of days although quite a bit of stretch was achieved early on.
Before
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1293_zpsd6cbd278.jpg)
Before
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1296_zps910d988c.jpg)
Before
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1297_zps40e9664a.jpg)
After - I still have a little bit to go
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1314_zpsc8bba832.jpg)
Have also had good results with contact adhesive to apply canvas patches to small holes before they get worse. Time will tell if it holds.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1307_zpsaa002837.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1306_zpsc6228887.jpg)
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1305_zps719df39c.jpg)
And finally a new steering damper - Britpart unit
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1303_zps4087dddc.jpg)
Have I done this correctly with the washers? Also how tight does it need to be? Am afraid of splitting the rubber bushes if I go all the way.
(http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn396/911Polizei/109%20GS%20Resto/IMG_1304_zps0eadb29a.jpg)
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HI,
Yep Dampener looks correct, and the pressure on rubbers looks OK, just rounding out a bit. Canopy looks good, ratchet straps is a great idea to stretch it out a bit.
Cheers
Scott
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I was thinking about the ign switch on my way home(hence my e mail).To all that are following Ed"s work, having seen it in the flesh, I can say that the effort put into this project has delivered the goods.Top job.I would also like to thank Ed for the (rouge) rim swap.If you have any issue with the canvas I can get my friends who repaired the rear flaps to sort it out.Are you and the rover going to make it to Melrose?Cheers Hallsy.
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Melrose will be a maybe at this stage as there are still a few things to sort out:
- brakes (currently i think one of the wheel cylinders is dodgy as it is pulley to the right - not good for oncoming traffic)
- still need front prop shaft (when I got it someone had put a swb version in it!)
- radiator needs a re-core
- and I still need to install the engine side cover gasket and sort out my electrical gremlins
So it I can do all of that in time I might have a chance :)