Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
Vehicle Variants => Radio Vehicles => Topic started by: Magellan on September 19, 2013, 05:51:24 PM
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I'm slowly working through 30-128 and have found the following:-
- the wiring from the Brake Failure switch has been cut at the engine bay end. Can anyone please advise where this would've terminated? I've noticed a switch on the brake booster that has no wires connected also.
- the handbrake switch is disconnected also so I need to run new wires from this. One obviously goes to the warning light on the black out panel but where would I pick up the power and what colour wiring should I use?
- the hour meter works but I'm not sure if it's accurate. I assume the Red figures are tenths of an hour and the gauge then reads in units, tens, hundreds, thousands and tens of thousands? I recently crossed the Simpson and over three weeks the meter registered approx 138 hrs, doesn't seem enough to me.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
cheers, Daryl
The wiring diagram for the FFR and civvie versions do not show either the handbrake or Brake Failure switch :(
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The 12V vehicle systems wiring diagrams are on the REMLR site http://remlr.com/wiring.html#s3 (http://remlr.com/wiring.html#s3)
The majority of the differences in the FFR system is the almost completely separate 24V radio system. Your questions only relate to the 12V systems and will be the same.
There are two brake light switches, one in the drivers footwell under the dash and the other on the pedal box. One is for the regular brake lights and the other for the blackout brake lights. Sometimes in civvy use when one switch breaks they connect to redundant blackout stop.
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Many thanks Diana. Could the switch on my brake booster be the switch on the pedal box you refer to?
cheers, Daryl
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Many thanks Diana. Could the switch on my brake booster be the switch on the pedal box you refer to?
cheers, Daryl
On civilian models the switch on the booster is the brake light switch.
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The switch on the booster is actually a low vacuum warning indicator.
The switch above the booster (on top of the pedal box) is the one that Diana is referring to.
The warning lamp is also connected to the pressure differential valve.
cookey
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The switch on the booster is actually a low vacuum warning indicator.
The switch above the booster (on top of the pedal box) is the one that Diana is referring to.
The warning lamp is also connected to the pressure differential valve.
cookey
Thanks cookey, as it stands this is what I've found:-
- the switch on the pedal box is missing, a grommet is in place
- wiring from the brake failure switch (?pressure diff' valve) has been cut
- the hand brake switch is disconnected
- I've found the updated wiring diagram on the website
What I'd like to do is:-
- return the wiring back to Army spec
Questions:-
- is the warning lamp you refer to a separate dash lamp or is it an existing lamp with dual function?
- what type of relay is the Brake Fail relay, is it available?
many thanks for your assistance, Daryl
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Hi Daryl,
on top of the pedal box there should be two holes, the one closest to the firewall is situated directly above the operating rod clevis pin and is used to lubricate (a few drops of oil) the clevis pin. The threaded hole further towards the booster is where the blackout stop lamp switch is located. (Incidentally, this switch is identical to the normal brake lamp switch located under the dash on the pedal housing.) It draws power from the blackout switch (terminal 08) and feeds it to the blackout stop lamps. This is a green/purple wire all the way.
On the blackout switch panel there should be 2 rectangular warning lamps.
One is the brake fail lamp and the other the hand brake warning lamp.
The brake fail lamp is activated by
a) the brake fluid switch (PD switch)(78), or
b) the low vacuum switch (79).
These switches work in conjunction with a relay (80)
In practice I have never seen this system operate as intended.
Australian Design Rules dictate that the warning lamp must illuminate when the engine is being cranked by the starter motor (this is a test to ensure the lamp and circuit is functional). Examining the wiring diagram I don't see how this is possible. I usually fit my own relay system to achieve this.
The hand brake warning lamp (74) is activated by a switch at the base of the hand brake mechanism (75). It should be a white wire and draws power from the fuse box, via the warning lamp, to the hand brake switch and to earth (when the hand brake is applied).
The wiring diagram that you need to view is EMEI G307-13 (1985)
Hope this helps,
Cookey
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Cookey, yes it all makes sense. I've got the handbrake warning light working and since my last post have downloaded the diagram you recommended. Fortunately I have the requisite relay and it all looks pretty straight forward.
One question...where was the relay mounted? In the engine bay on the firewall or inside near the blackout panel?
Where possible I'm using the correct colour coded wire.
If the parts are available I'll dismantle the brake failure sw and service it to ensure proper operation. Why it was isolated in the first place is a mystery...?malfunction.
PM sent
cheers, Daryl
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G'day Daryl,
the brake fail relay is located behind the blackout switch panel. The problem with these relays (good old Lucas) is that the internal earth seems to fail, rendering the whole thing useless. I usually fit a Hella relay with external earth (4 pin). As it's located behind the blackout panel it's out of sight. We used to do this to in-service vehicles and not tell anyone........
Cookey