110 FFR 24V control box fuses

[dugite]

Hi everyone, I have hopefully attached a copy of the 24V wiring diagram.

Can some of you helpful people please tell me where the fuses ( that in the top of the control box) are on the diagram.

The fuses seem like a good location to tap into the 24V supply for fridges and an external camping light.

The power at the said fuses is still live when the 100amp circuit breaker to the radio outlets is switched off.

(I wish I could get some ITT Cannon plugs at a reasonable price).

thanks

[Diana Alan]

You are better to tap the power off the bus, or replace one or more of the Mil spec plugs with civilian easily available sockets.

In red the + ve bus (pin A)

In blue the - ve bus (pin B)

(you will note that the 150 amp fuses are on the +ve external charging circuit, the +ve on the external (remote) battery pack and in series between the two on board batteries)

Have added a green circle for the circuit breaker, you can take unswitched pos off the battery side of the switch, but you would want to add another fuse, lest you get a short and melt the perentie.  Theres a lot of amps in two of those batteries.

Also, do you always want to be running the 24V system?

This adds additional load on the system and there is usually insufficient drain on the battery packs.

[dugite]

Thanks very much for adding the highlights to the diagram (I pressed the thank button too ) - you have explained what I failed to see.

I take your point about the 24v system - it's just that it's there really - and presently unused. Engel fridges and LED lights will work well off it.

I had been thinking of adding an isolator switch to the final battery earth (notation on the diagram 0 V adj to the -ve bus)  for a bit of added electrical safety when the system is not in use.

There will be a lot of these being driven around with enough serious power to weld (and melt aluminium) in an electrical system that will receive little/nil maintenance or attention.


I would be interested if you have a opinion as to the safest course of action with the 24v system on these FFRs (assuming that most civvie users have little use for this amount of radio power) ?

[Diana Alan]

I think that a lot of the systems will be removed and dumped.  Just like happened with the SIII FFR.  Sometime down the track, silly people like me will be trying to find all the bits and put it back together.

On my SIII FFR I made an additional power distribution box (although 12V) with individual fused outlets, mounted on the other side to the 24V distribution box.  I would suggest something similar mounted close to your 24V box.

If you are going to tap off the current fuses, I would tap off "F2" after the fuse so you have internal protection in the OEM box.  In fact in that case I would tap into the A and B pins on the "Ext Bat" socket on the face of the box, or use the socket itself if you find the Cannon ITT/Amphenol plug.

[Doddy]

Hi,
Another option would be to use something like

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Military-Metal-Male-3-Pins-Circular-Connector-Y2M-3TK-/150950948857?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item232560aff9

in place of the small socket on the front of the unit.

You may need a bigger fuse of course depending what you are going to use it for.

And paint it to match.

Regards
Doddy

[DetV]

I added a festoon fuse holder to the front of the dist box, fitted with a 30Amp fuse and took the feed off the top of the 100A circuit breaker - that way I can still isolate the additional circuits with the circuit breaker. This feeds a Merit connector for my fridge and a 24v->12v and 24v->13.8v inverters.