Author Topic: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A  (Read 5244 times)

Offline gordo

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • THANKS 1
  • Location: SE Qld
Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« on: April 28, 2014, 08:18:17 PM »
Ok I'm new to Land Rovers so I want to know if anyone has changed valve guide seals on a 2A without pulling the head off.
I pulled the tappet cover off and although it is hard to see I think it has umbrella style seals.
The hard part will be compressing double valve springs. I was thinking of using the small puller type spring compressor but I don't think it will grab double springs.
Has anyone done it?
Should I just not be lazy and pull the head?
If i do can I leave the manifolds on? Hopefully there is no hidden bolts under the manifolds.
Best place to buy the parts in Brisbane?
Thanks

Offline gordo

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • THANKS 1
  • Location: SE Qld
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2014, 07:37:40 PM »
Ok no reply's.
I thought I'd give it a go so I made a spring compressor out of a F clamp.
I also made a fitting it put an airline into the spark plug to hold the valves up.
I was remove the valve seal on the first valve.
I haven't been able to buy new seals.
Where would I find them in Brisbane?
Bursons don't have them.
Jeff

Offline FFRMAN

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 2817
  • THANKS 211
  • Location: Western Vic.
  • REMLR No: 314
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2014, 08:29:14 PM »
Hi sorry I can't help you but someone will come along soon and help.

Regards
Scott
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline aussiegregmac

  • REMLR Inc
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 945
  • THANKS 97
  • Location: Esk Qld
  • REMLR No: 384
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2014, 08:47:35 PM »
C'mon Uncle Ho.  you're the gooroo on things mechanical.
Can't help you either.  I would have taken the head off.
And then found more things to fix.
Greg Mac.
1942 C15 Blitz RadioVan 42-CMP "The PieVan"
1960 Series2 FFW 111-515  "The Woodcutter"
1991 Perentie RFSV 51-699  "Berzerker"
1996 Perentie INF 6x6 202-189 "The Walrus"

Offline gordo

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • THANKS 1
  • Location: SE Qld
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2014, 09:07:32 PM »
its all Good!
Just have to ring around tomorrow to find some new seals.
Cheers
Jeff

Offline gordo

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • THANKS 1
  • Location: SE Qld
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2014, 09:09:14 PM »
Piece of cake!

Offline gordo

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • THANKS 1
  • Location: SE Qld
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2014, 09:36:07 PM »
 ;D
All done.
Very straight forward really.
Got new seals from MR Automotive.
Very good to deal with unlike a guy at Brendale who said it was impossible and that I didn't know what I was talking about. He thinks all Land Rovers have just an Oring in the guide.
I won't mention his company name but he is a Rover tech.
Cheers

Offline FFRMAN

  • REMLR Committee
  • Veteran
  • ***
  • Posts: 2817
  • THANKS 211
  • Location: Western Vic.
  • REMLR No: 314
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2014, 10:31:24 PM »
Hi Jeff,

thanks for the info, this is great info to share, much appreciated

regards
Scott
Lots...............
VMVC 251,

Offline Rangy35

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 271
  • THANKS 35
  • Location: Canberra
  • REMLR No: Don't know what this is.
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #8 on: September 19, 2014, 11:15:24 PM »
For the guys who don't have compressed air to fill the cylinders to keep the valves up for the remove and fit of the valve springs you can substitute the air with some non fraying rope, like nylon rope the guys use when camping. I put the piston on bottom dead centre feed the rope in, around the 1 to 1.5m, leave  pice hanging out the plug hole for removing it. Turn engine to top dead centre until it locks    up and remove springs and fit a in same fashion as above.

Offline kman

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 462
  • THANKS 31
  • Location: Kuranda, Qld
  • REMLR No: 278
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2014, 08:05:21 AM »
Thanks for the posts. Mine have needed replacing for some time and being an incompetent mechanically I have avoided doing it. I have often been told that it is easy to do without lifting the head but never any detail.

Are there any other tips from your recent experience?

Howard
Ferret Mk 1/2
MUTT M151A2
No 5 Trailer, RAAF Tactical Trailer

Offline Rangy35

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 271
  • THANKS 35
  • Location: Canberra
  • REMLR No: Don't know what this is.
Re: Changing valve guide seals on a 2A
« Reply #10 on: September 20, 2014, 05:41:40 PM »
Its fairly straight forward as described by OP,  I have done this many times and is easy for me, so here is a few things to be careful in the sense of not causing extra unwanted damage.
When undoing and refitting the rocker shaft don't undo the bolts one by one completely the tension from the valve springs can......CAN break the shaft.
Start by cracking all bolts/nuts and undo them from outside to the inside two to three turns at a time, when assembling do the same but from inside starting point and work to the outside.
With assembly of the rocker shaft make sure the push rods are in the correct location in the cam followers, that is the part in the block and as the name says follows the cam lobe and make sure the rocker shaft also locates properly in the push rod. This is important as I have seen this done wrong and when the guys try to start the engine they have all sorts of concerns, blowing back into intake, misfiring, and so on.
Other than that, be careful when dismantling the valve spring, the quarters, that is the two small wedge like parts that lock the retainer to the valve stem can fall or get lost easy. I use a magnet to collect them and when assembling I put a dab of grease on the inside of the quarters so they stick to the valve stem and not get lost or move when releasing the the valve spring to take up the tension.
Never mix your parts keep everything to its original position, what I mean is the quarters and valve spring of the first valve stays together and so on.
That is it from my side, maybe somebody would like to add if I missed something.
Cheers John.