Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
International Trucks => International Truck Chat => International No.1 Mk.4 => Topic started by: B 52 on May 22, 2012, 06:16:49 AM
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Looks like I get to do the first Inter post. I hope everybody reloads their pictures and info onto this site. I've changed my login from Lieutenantrover and B is the first letter in my name, 52 the year I came into being
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Hello B 52,
Any pics of your inter?, i have a workshop LR 172-559, not far in ARN's from your inter.
MC
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I've changed my login from Lieutenantrover and B is the first letter in my name, 52 the year I came into being
I think I saw you at the RAAF Pearce Airshow on the weekend.
(http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b469/JackM47/Airshow2012B52.jpg)
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Looking better[/img](http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/lieutenantrover/DSCF0153.jpg)
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Can I poke around in that shed for a month?
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Is that a LRPV underneath that pile?
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B52
Thats one hell of a nice looking truck you have there...
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Any pics of the inside B52? I have a Mk3/4 upgrade and I'd love to see the inside.
Cheers
Brad
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A few I took when I first got it. (http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/lieutenantrover/Inters/IMG_0608.jpg)
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/lieutenantrover/Inters/IMG_0885_zpshdgijs6e.jpg)
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Nice looking rig.
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can anyone tell me what the 1.87 on the passenger front window means?
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Mate that looks the ducks gutz, BTW when can I come n get it LOL cheers Dennis 8)
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Tomorrow. I wont be here and the SWMBO has saved enough to pay someone to take it away
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Looks awesome B52, now you can get back some time and cut that lawn..... :-\
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Hopefully I can post photos once again(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/lieutenantrover/IMG_0608.jpg)
Looks like it worked
I hope you got the engine fixed, using a Landy to push a Mk4 for too long will end up breaking something! ::)
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Reading about 170 952's restoration has got me motivated so I'd best get back to 172 571. I hope to make it to Corowa next year with a landy or two in tow. One in the back and another on the car trailer should be easy. The brake wheel cylinders need overhauling, a new muffler and new tubes in the tyres as after 47 years I don't think there will be much life left in them. Not for a trip across Aus anyway. The rest of the jobs are cosmetic, sanding and oiling the deck timbers and normal maintenance. (http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/lieutenantrover/Inters/IMG_0851_zpsp7jrkrw1.jpg) (http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/lieutenantrover/Inters/IMG_2421_zpspao084en.jpg) (http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/lieutenantrover/Inters/IMG_0887_zps9gzo8bjf.jpg)
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B 52, I see that you have the driver's windscreen open. I never tried it in service but we were warned not to as they allegedly had a habit of falling out. I never investigated to find out why that would have been the case. I gather that you have not had a bad experience along those lines.
Geoff.
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B 52, I see that you have the driver's windscreen open. I never tried it in service but we were warned not to as they allegedly had a habit of falling out. I never investigated to find out why that would have been the case. I gather that you have not had a bad experience along those lines.
Geoff.
I drove from Perth to Kalgoorlie with the window open like that and had no problem. It was summer and I couldn't find the air condition button so definitely needed the air flow. The shroud around the gear lever was long gone. It was like sitting in a jet blast.
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I wonder if the Mk 4 mod fixed the problem? There were times when I would loved to have opened it because as you say, the A/C left a lot to be desired. The shroud around the gear lever from memory didn't do much except concentrate the air flow into a jet which went straight up your left arm pit. In Victoria in winter I remember having the interesting experience of being hot on one side and not so hot on the other. Of course in regard to opening the windscreen, when the army said not to do something......
Anyway it looks really good in the photo, well done that man!
Geoff.
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Nice work, in regards to towing the LR to Corowa on a trailer, did you know that free wheeling hubs fit on the rear axles also. I A frame our Skippy behind the Mog, it towes real fine.
A lot less weight without a trailer also.
I have notice that you chaps don't put free wheel hubs on.
Other than looks, whats the reason? Just asking!
Stephen
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Hi Stephen,
A frame towing approval in OZ can get a bit complicated with each combination probably requiring requiring engineering approval and breakaway braking, and the fact that regulations differ between the states.
Regarding freewheel hubs, people here with experience of Series LRs ( incl myself) , have found that there is no economic advantage in fitting them and there are some potential disadvantages.
HTH :)
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Free wheeling hubs have a bad reputation for introducing a new weak link in the drive train and not lowering the fuel use, so many people have tried them and removed them others have had no problems :)
Laurie posted just before me
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...did you know that free wheeling hubs fit on the rear axles also. I A frame our Skippy behind the Mog, it towes real fine.
I have notice that you chaps don't put free wheel hubs on.
Other than looks, whats the reason? !
Stephen
I don't believe that free wheeling-hubs do any good either, but I have the following question. If the machine is being towed several thousand km, how do the wheel bearings get lubricated, given that they rely on oil being transferred to them from the differential sump, by the half-shafts?
Cheers Charlie
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A framing is legal in WA but the towed vehicle can't be more than 35% of the towing vehicle.
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Any ideas on a suitable carby for the Inter Mk 4's?
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I just checked with the local Iveco dealer who has been very helpful with parts hunting previously. Going by the pic above, you have the single carby setup like mine.
The RPS says it is IH part # 858637R91, but the dealer can't find any listing for that. The Major Parts kit is 858982R91 and his listing shows it but says it is discontinued.
So is the minor parts kit, 858981R9 & the gasket kit 858980R92. He believes that there might be some kits left on shelves of dealers that have been around a long time,
but you would have to ring around as that old stuff doesn't show stocks at other dealers.
An alternate option would be to fit something like the carbies from the old HQ Holdens with 253 or 308 motors and re-jet to suit, but you would have to modify
your control linkages and make up an adaptor plate. I don't know much about Fords, but I believe they had a 4.6l engine in some that would probably have the right jetting.
For the volume of the engine, (4.6l). I'm surprised they used such a small bore carby. I would have expected them to use something bigger like a 2 barrel Holley or similar.
I'm only guessing, but I think it must have been a common item used on other machinery at the time the trucks were designed and they never really changed it until they stopped making them.
Looking at the F! RPS, the carby is slightly different. It uses the same gasket kit as the MK4, but uses 2x Bendix rebuild kits. I can't make it out on my copy, but it looks like the numbers are Bendix HK671 and Bendix FHK671.
It might pay to go for a look through your "local" truck wreckers.
Greg
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Hi All, Best carbie for a MK4? It would defiantly have to be an injector pump and 6 injectors.... Diesel is the way to go.... anyway that out of my system, whats wrong with the one on it or is that the problem, its not there? Strombergs came out is so many variances that it will be hard to ever replace one exactly from another vehicle. You can defiantly find one that fits and even looks the same but it will always have minor differences unless you really go the whole hog and start from the ground up. Yes, main jets etc are easy to change but when it comes to the smaller things like idle circuits, low and high speed air bleeds etc, a lot of these are built into the carbie so more difficult to adjust. That said, nothing that can't be done. I just had mine rebuilt from a guy in Blacktown and for $150 i couldn't even bother looking inside mine myself. It was stripped, chemically cleaned, re-plated, throttle shaft replaced and housing bushed, then all new internals, float, needle and seat, accelerator pump check valve, accelerator pump seal..... list goes on all for $150!!!!!!!! all i had to do was fit it up, warm the engine up and adjust the idle air mixture which might i add was only 1/4 turn out so id defiantly recommend old matey to anyone. If you were looking for performance than the F1 twin carb setup would be best as it is a bolt on item. You are otherwise restricted buy the inlet manifold and its ability (or lack there of) to flow.
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The Inter runs well, but the carby needs a kit put through it. Its a standard stromberg off a holden engine and I put an adjustable main jet on it. It blows a bit of smoke but thats probably because of the valve stem seals leaking. Upper cylinder lubricant never hurts.
The vehicle has only done 4600 miles so I don't really want to replace the engine with a diesel, I gather 6 the Perkins 6/354 drops in. I was looking putting a late model Holley carb or similar on it if that would improve economy and power
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The black diamond engine ran a small two barrel Holley, which flowed at 190CFM from memory. I know of a forum member who tried a 350 Holley, it would hold its own on most hills, but was as thirsty as a sailor on shore leave. The Stromberg was used in the Gold diamond and 6-281-2-3 for local content reasons. I once had the chance to experiment whilst serving and found that if the timing was advanced and super grade fuel used a Mk3 would return 11mpg rather than 6-7 mpg at a steady45 mph, even with the canopy in place. At the moment I'm in the process of fitting an ADM Weber to my Mk 4, it should improve things a bit along with electronic ignition. The Weber was used on XE/F Fords. The XE model is the best for this application. It needs an adapter of course. The Weber runs on the primary until the throttle is about 60% open then the secondary starts to open too. Total throttle bore area is about 30% greater than the Stromberg. The smaller primary bore keeps the air velocity up at lower throttle openings and that helps keep the fuel droplets in suspension. Time will tell I guess.
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If you come to my front door with $20 in your hand ,I will exchange it for a 858982R93 kit to suit.I have dozens of them.Regards John.
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A single barrel stromberg will for ever be a reliable simple carbie bet will never return any kind of good economy. The 2 barrel webber as mentioned from the fords are a good carbie which can also improve power and economy. The main problem is they are still restricted by the manifold and although low and mid engine speeds will work well, you will get to a point where the carbie will want more air flow than it can get and the efficiency will go south. You will find that around 3/4 throttle where it really opens up, the air speed/volume won't be ideal for the carbie. This will of course most likely not be noticed when driving but you will be probably be running very rich and basically blow $$$$$$$ out the exhaust. The other problem is that there isn't a real lot of after market running bits for the ford type webber. On the other hand, although suffering the same basic problems as the webber, a 350 holley has an extensive range of tuning bits available. I have had some great success with a 350 holley on a holden 202, this is obviously a lot smaller and good inlet manifolds available but otherwise basically the same. The 350 is way tooooooooo big in standard form for a little holden 202 but with the accessories available it was modified and very successful with good dyno results to show. One of the biggest mods was the fitting of annular boosters into both throats to increase air speed and provide better atomisation. The same principle would be good with the 282 as they don't rev that much, good vacuum at low speed = efficiency = power. I personally believe that a carbie controlled by vacuum would be best overall as it will only give what the engine can use. Now although not exactly ideal as far as running extras go, a 2 barrel "varijet" of a VH commodore has a small primary throat and a BIG secondary controlled by vacuum so you have the small primary for good vacuum for low speed and economy and a vacuum controlled secondary for the big hills. They have a multitude of adjustments so are a good carbie if you know your way around it but overall can be a nightmare. I have been toying with the idea of possibly using an "SU" or similar. An SU is a full vacuum controlled carbie which once again will only give what is needed resulting in good power and good economy. The idea is replacing the pipe from the air cleaner to the original carbie with a new intake pipe, carb, 90 degree elbow and flange onto the original carb mount on the manifold. With a long runner, vacuum should be good at low speeds and engine torque should pick up. One other thing to consider would be for anyone wanting to still do some off road work may run into flooding problems on angles with some carbies.
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Still running well
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A recent pic 172 571 is about to hit the workshop for a makeover
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Looks to be in great condition.
Apart from the slight scuffs on the front bumper end and the minor oil leaks on the front diff bung and drivers side front wheel, it could almost be mistaken for an in-service pic.
What work do you plan to do on it?
Greg.
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Greg, I would have to disagree. It could well be an in service pic even with those minor blemishes you mentioned. It looks pretty tidy to me. I just looked at an old pic of a Mk 3 that was on my name for a while. No scuffs but a couple of minor oil leaks
Geoff O.
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It is in good nick, still only 4611 miles on it. I've had it for about 10 years with the intention of restoring it. Time is always the enemy.