Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers
REMLR Member Sheds => REMLR Member Sheds => Dennis M's Shed => Topic started by: DennisM on March 02, 2013, 01:40:15 PM
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This is sacraligous(sic) ??? having these vehicles standing out in the weather :'(
(https://i.imgur.com/KbkyC6Sl.jpg)
gee, I miss Mrs "M's" shed :(, rain rain go away, go somewhere else, cheers Dennis
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Cruelty to land rovers....
>:(
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:) Sorry to see your Saturday was all rainy.
Your photo reminds me of my mum... lovingly covering up the budgie cages on wet winter days.
I must need some meds. Stevie has the flu and I'll probably get it off him.
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Dennis... whats going on now the weather has cleared up? Have you stashed all those parts from that donor Landy?
(Haven't got the flu yet, chewing Vit C... )
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Hi there, spotted your GS LR pics sporting a new soft top (2004 pics i think?) who in Oz makes these? i am keen on getting one made for my GS back here in NZ..
Cheers,,
Carl
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Restless Rover on this forum does canopies :D
http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=1871.msg18085#msg18085
I believe his computer problem is sorted and taking orders again try a PM
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Love the bike rack have you got anymore pics of it, showing how it attaches and how the bike stays on etc.
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Great work Dennis !
Mick
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Excellent demo pics and how to lesson. Thank you. :)
Your apprentice seems to be pretty handy.
And that photo with the guard off gives me a new perspective on just how big those winches are...
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:) fantastic help from Dennis for anyone installing a Series donk. Needs a link to be put in a permanent spot in the Series 2 help section.
Thank you.
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Great little article...
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Really good, hopefully more to come.
Cheers Dennis,
Mick
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Which electronic ignition? I fitted one from Jolley (www.classicheads.com) to my Ferret and it is a beautifully made piece of kit. Have been toying with the idea of fitting onw to my S2A FFT.
Howard
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Hi Dennis
You probably have allready tried these?
Three things you could try(been caught out with these at different times)
fitted new NGK plugs only to find one faulty(unusual for NGK).
Coil on way out & or wrong coil fitted.
very fine crack in dizzy cap
Good luck
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Bad/off fuel?
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blockage in the fuel line?
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Well after a bit of fiddling and taking advice/suggestions etc from forum users, I now have the engine sorted, it sounds (to me) OK, starts very easy too, listen to the snap of the ignition switch just before the engine starts LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snBm1vmKSLM&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw
just need a choke cable, and the exhaust engine pipe has to be welded, but I need a hoist to do that job, anyway Thank you to those who responded, cheers Dennis :)
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so do tell what was the problem?
I can help alleviate that space problem,
I'll take the shortest landies you have there to help out :twisted:
seriously thanks for the thread..
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Thanks!,
Glad to know all sorted now.
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G'day Dennis,
How did you get on with the exhaust?
It looks like there is very little clearance between the engine down pipe and the winch drive shaft, do you need to bend the exhaust to solve this issue?
Any photos of your solution would be great, I am about to tackle this one myself soon.....
Cheers,
Mike.
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Great effort, if only mine was so simple.
If you don't want all those shiny's I can give them a good home with the medical display of our WWI group ;)
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G'day Dennis
How is the model train building going? I remember seeing a photo of a train in your workshop some years ago.
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Nice to see someone else with too many hobbies. Not to worry, you won't die of boredom!
Geoff.
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Hi Denis
I like your train. It looks like it is a real labour of love, I would like to see more of it if we could.
Cheers
Rod
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Hi Dennis,
I have to agree with Rod, more photo's and story of the train would be most welcome.
Cheers,
Mick
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Looking good there Dennis,
And congratulations on your retirement!
Having seen what you could do when you were working, I'm really looking forward to seeing what projects are in the works now that you have a bit of spare time :)
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Thanks for the informative post Denis. I really enjoyed reading and I like the work that you have done to date it is a real credit to you.
Cheers
Rod
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Outstanding work there Dennis :).
Going by the prices that are expected at this UK auction, you may want to finish it off, sell it and add some dosh to your retirement fund ;)
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2133841/Train-buffs-collection-working-scale-replicas-classic-locomotives-set-fetch-250-000.html
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Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed reading about you hobby.
As a Fitter & Machinist myself, I found your attention to detail amazing.
Great job.
Murray
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Thank you for the compliments gents, Murray I think some of this small engineering attention to detail got into overkill when I started with Land Rovers, I'm at a standstill (kind a sorta) as I have dismantled my mill/drill I bent the spindle (about 4 years ago) and I'm waiting on a replacement, so I have put myself and the good wife into doing a couple of jobs that had been on the to-do list for a while, we replaced a 6.2 meter length of guttering on a carport off the house and put up a 3.3 meter length on a new carport that covers the Series 1 that only needs a horn and get it registered anyway this morning I have emailed a supplier of model engineering supplies up on the gold coast, hopefully he will respond as the local person who is a 10 minute drive away wont answer emails/phone calls so I have given them the flick atm, anyway I will post some more information re the loco later tonight, cheers Dennis
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Dennis,
You are one talented man. I wish I had a tenth of your skills.
FANTASTIC !!!!!!
All the best.
Mick
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Great work as usual Dennis.
Perry
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Hi Denis
Great to meet up at Corowa. I love your work, keep it coming.
Cheers
Rod
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Hi Dennis,
Your skills never cease to amaze me mate.
Keep you these posts it will be very interesting watching it all come together.
Cheers,
Mick
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Hi Dennis,
Fantastic mate, looking forward to seeing what you crank out with that 😊👍
Have fun !
Mick
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Very nice Dennis,
Now you will be able to build a bigger loco.
You do lose some points for using a T@%:*a though. :D
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I had no choice, it belongs to my nephew so I suppose that makes it OK LOL, it cost $200.00 freight from Sydney/Newcastle, the freight company had no way of getting it off at my place as I don't own a fork lift, so I had to pick it up at their depot and get it off best way I could, it has been raining most of the day here, whilst I was @ work (0600/1400hrs) still drizzling, so nothing is going happen today, I dunno about building a bigger locomotive, and yes Mick, I can't wait to start using it, I just wish they could get me the correct spindle for my mill/drill, anyway cheers Dennis
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Fantastic but I don't know where you'll fit it unless you've rennovated the chook run.
If you have to move stuff around in the shed you may find things in there you haven't seen for a long time. Could be fun!
Take care and all the best.
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Dennis, that's a nice looking Merle you've got there.
A better photo would be nice.
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I will try n find a better image of 'Max' the Blue Merle, he is Digger's sleeper here sshhhh! LOL Digger sends him treats through the mail to encourage him to nick my gunbuggy, anyway back to reality Max is a lovely male Sheltie, he doesn't have the opaque eyes that usually occur, he is a very sensitive mutt, always checking out what I'm doing in the shed and working around Land Rovers, I think that's how Digger got onto to him, LOL cheers mate Dennis
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Dennis,
Your a bloody genius 😊👍
Take care mate,
Mick
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Excellent work there Denis. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Cheers
Rod
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Another day pushing it along, the pump has been mounted, but not before it was checked to see if it worked
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8z02SxTZyM
it doesn't need to lift water, but it lifted water 8" above where the container was, happy with that, I just hope that it doesn't get stuck up until I'm ready for it LOL cheers Dennis
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Platform shoes?
(https://regmedia.co.uk/2015/08/30/elton_john_pinball_wizard.jpg?x=1200&y=794)
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Dont sell anything BUY something
Like a bigger shed it works for wives when was the last time you seen a womens sale but you see garage sales all the time ;D
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Put a temporary carport up in the driveway (or backyard) for the Workshop and trailer.
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/9a/83/d7/9a83d791d32e370c96dcbacd39be8313.jpg)
Ooo.....
I like this one:
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QhNDTeUm3sU/maxresdefault.jpg)
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A sad day indeed today for me, I have just realized that I'm too damn short, I can't reach over the top the engine n see what's down the other side.
Anyway now I have to rethink the interior of the shed so I can access both sides of the engine with ease?
Maybe I should sell my Series 2A 109 Wksp and the matching trailer with 95% of the tentage/poles/ropes & gen/set to make room LOL cheers Dennis
(http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/109andTrailer006.jpg)
There are so many nice things in this thread, but this time, I'm afraid, you have gone too far. There is now drool on my keyboard!@* %&!!!
Instead of selling the 2A and trailer, or getting cosmetic shin extensions, what about building a mini "Car Rotisserie" for the P Class? You could then rotate the engine to present any aspect you need to work on, and has the added bonus of pointing out all the unsecured bits as they fall off and go behind the bench!
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I made the remaining nipples this morning, nothing like making nipples in the morning LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/GskeCAJ.jpg)
they were all fitted except for the 1/4" x 40tpi at the base of the boiler backhead
(http://i.imgur.com/gA6V3nW.jpg)
the lagging was offered up, held firmly with one hand, soft faced hammer in the other, a firm whack, job done,
scribe circles, do a lot of filing, checking rechecking etc., etc.,
Next task was to try and determine the position of the fire hole, I used the 5/16" x 32tpi nipple, held it in a small
brass mandrel, faced it off, and put a small dimple in the end, to allow me to use a pair of dividers
(http://i.imgur.com/iZ9wIIK.jpg)
then refit the lagging and repeat the process until all points have been taken, this is what you end up with
(http://i.imgur.com/8oVDrBg.jpg)
a whole lot of scratch marks LOL.
Next small job was to turn down a lump of material to fit into the hole for the regulator, just so I can double check
that all the points/arcs are within reason, before I jump in and cut out a lump on the lagging
(http://i.imgur.com/QuQ2Ztn.jpg)
anyway that took most of the day just to get that far, ridiculous isn't it, tomorrow hopefully I will have made the fire hole
cheers Dennis
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Crunch day today, after a lot of too-ing n fro-ing with the marking out, I thought it best to have a dry run on a piece of scrap material, the lines were scribed, then drill around the inside of the line
bust it open file to the line etc., place under the press then press it home
(http://i.imgur.com/fo6eRXt.jpg)
the first thing I noticed was the opening was too small, that left a little too much material to be flanged, there is probably a formula for this but it would be beyond my ability to understand it, so I
guesstimated it on the second attempt and it was a much better result.
I had a cup of tea and bit the bullet, placing the lagging under the drill press, drill a series of holes, and break out the unwanted bit, file it to the line
(http://i.imgur.com/ENIivfP.jpg)
I had to check that it lined with the opening on the boiler, and I'm pleased to say it did, next step was to alter the die, as it needed to be clear of the base plate on the press, so a short piece of pipe
was pressed into service, a light tack from the Mig (after being faced off both ends in the lathe) a little bit of thought into how to hold it all together, I used 2 x 4" engineers clamps and a few bits of
square Hi-speed steel, the die was carefully placed so it was concentric with the scribed line, thus making a near perfect circle at the same height on the inside
(http://i.imgur.com/hGZ5UHm.jpg)
next I lubed the punch with some light machine oil to help it ease in, line it all up under the (homemade) press, slowly put the pressure on the punch, check that it's centralized within the scribed lines
happy with that, apply the force
(http://i.imgur.com/IzfMh60.jpg)
it went in like the proverbial finger, very tight fit, it was that tight I thought I was going to have to push it back out using the press, but it came out using a brass drift, undo all the restraints
offer it up onto the boiler, and the hole is equi-distant all the way around the firebox opening
(http://i.imgur.com/3BcpUVP.jpg)
very happy with the result, next task is to cut the rectangular hole so as the boiler ID No ND8888 is visible for any boiler inspectors, and fit the outer firebox door,
(http://i.imgur.com/fKoMijZ.jpg)
anyway that's been the best part of my day, cheers Dennis
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Still working on the back head lagging, didn't get much done today as I was searching through hundreds of images for 3 in particular for a display this Saturday @ the local RSL,
anyway many checks were made, lines scribed, holes drilled fingers XXXX'd
(http://i.imgur.com/fo6eRXt.jpg)
then offer it up into place thankfully all the holes were still within the size limits of the copper ID plate, phew,,.
I had a little break and had an idea which took me off on a tangent, sourced some ally plate marked it out and made a rough job on the next real job, the throat plate
for the 'Belpaire'
(http://i.imgur.com/fo6eRXt.jpg)
aluminium is very easy to work, but no good for the job intended, I just needed to be able to get my head around how 2, before I make a start on it, anyway much filing done
with lots of checks along the way, as I wanted the opening to be just the right size
(http://i.imgur.com/fo6eRXt.jpg)
and is as neat as I'm going to get it, anyway a couple of vehicles to be washed tomorrow, cheers Dennis
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I'm down n out literally, I must have done something really bad in a past life, my new lathe has stopped working, I was turning some mild steel hex
down to a specified size, a bit of stop start stuff, when all of a sudden when starting it back up it was making a horrible noise like it wasn't getting power
through, the lathe struggled to get up to speed.
I came up into the house to get my trades assistant to come down n listen/smell for anything, as soon as she walked through the door she exclaimed 'what's burning'
well I started the machine and smoke was coming out from underneath ++++, so I rang the business house I bought it from, they want me to remove the electric
motor and send it to them for a warranty claim, methinks I might have a licensed electrician look at it first, as it could just be something simple, the start run capacitors were replaced
(supplied by them @ no cost to me) just 3 weeks ago, ? I don't know what quality they were but surely one would think don't get cheap imported s**t, if the motor has to be replaced
I'm thinking 'Brook Crompton' electric motor 240V single phase 50hz 1400rpm 2hp, both other machines in the shed have 'Crompton/Parkinson' electric motors on them, and no issues
in well over 30 years, anyway rant over, just waiting for an electrician, cheers (grumpy) Dennis
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That's unfortunate Dennis - stuff happening like that can really take the wind out of your sails. At least you've got support from the seller - if it is H&F I think you could rely on them.
Not s bad idea to get an electrician if your not used to that kind of stuff - I hope it is all soon sorted
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Well, it has been a little while since I have posted in here, the lathe electric motor was replaced at no cost to me and so far has not caused me any grief fingers XXXX'd.
since my last post I had made one leaf spring for the front pony truck
(http://i.imgur.com/wwFCYH1.jpg)
it was fiddly job and I should have had the mind in gear and made four (4) of everything as there are four leaf springs on the two axles, I just didn't apply the 6P rule
anyway that aside, I have been fiddling with the Series 1 and other Land Rovers, I have told them to behave themselves but 'No' and $400.00 later for 2 batteries
that's almost $1,000.00 this year for batteries ****, anyway the joys of owning more Land Rovers than you should,,,,.
Back to today it was a lovely spring day nice temperature just the ideal day for a run up to Stockton beach in one of them, damn I resisted LOL
down in the depths of the shed I had made a few days ago a coupe of small jigs to help with making the leaf springs 11 leaves in each spring
this one has 2 purposes the shorter for drilling the 0.312" width spring steel, the other for reducing the width of the 'Tufnol' from 0.500" to 0.375"
(http://i.imgur.com/LvFQMz9.jpg)
the width of the cuts are 0.020" (20 thou) and 0.030" (30 thou) the slitting saws are expensive and can shatter if not used correctly, here is the jig
doing what I made it for, reducing the width of the 'Tufnol'
(http://i.imgur.com/OJO4HIe.jpg)
then for all leaves made in three's all progressively shorter than the one above ( damn hard when your eyesight is shot) it is measure cut, halve the length
then mark n drill with a No 33 drill (clearance size for 6BA)
(http://i.imgur.com/3M1Ywa8.jpg)
after many hours the days work looked like a dogs breakfast but they all deflect
(http://i.imgur.com/7Bvg1KT.jpg)
I still haven't decided on the style of keep as yet, that will possibly happen tomorrow as well as silver solder the spring eyes into place anyway the collection
(http://i.imgur.com/9l3Mohm.jpg)
and as always tomorrow is another day, I now need to buy some hard spring wire to wind 6 coil springs for the front tie bars & I wonder what I will break/buggerup anyway cheers Dennis
ps I forgot to add that I had made the throatplate for the boiler lagging, it was made from 4" dia copper pipe, it was cut annealed flattened etc etc.,
(http://i.imgur.com/3Mialq3.jpg)
and after many reheats/anneals etc it looked like this
(http://i.imgur.com/JRCWzpS.jpg)
then mark out the boiler barrel and remove the excess material it looked like this
(http://i.imgur.com/0JGGwzY.jpg)
this job is still to be completed, but as I'm a 1 man band here and things keep cropping up, and my mate with the metal cutting gear lives 45 minutes away
I'm waiting until I have enough tasks to do at the same time, cheers,,.
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Well, the best laid plans of men n mice sometimes go south LOL, it rained all day yesterday so not a great deal attempted, I did want to use the oxy
to silver solder eyes to the main leaf and tie bar rods to their respective brackets, but I'm very reluctant to use the oxy in the shed because of all the
thinners/petrol and other flammable items.
This morning I awoke to nice sunshine, but before too long it was blowing a gale >:( >:(, so I checked the vicinity of where I could use a flame
I moved some items and carefully scanned around looking for anything that might just get in the way of the flame, I was reasonably sure I would be right
but as I have no sense of smell I asked the good wife down to use her sense of smell, she gave me the all clear, so it was clean surfaces to be soldered
and set them up
(http://i.imgur.com/IxvLmvL.jpg)
it's been a while since I have used silver solder easy flo 245 on steel, you have to be very cautious with the heat, anyway it all went well, 2 eyes in place
(http://i.imgur.com/J03rzm7.jpg)
the only way I could see what was happening was to mount the pony truck chassis vertically in the bench vise
(http://i.imgur.com/KG3V2pM.jpg)
fit unfit, check n recheck
(http://i.imgur.com/YlMjlhQ.jpg)
I now need to buy some 20 SWG wire to make another 6 coil springs, but that won't be happening until after Monday next, anyway cheers Dennis
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Beautiful work Dennis
You are a crafts person!
STDDIVER
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Well mate thank you for the comment, but I still class myself as a rank amateur, I look in on some of the model engineering forums, man they make my stuff look like rejected rubbish LOL anyway I'm reasonably happy with my work, with my limited skills and workshop gear, cheers Dennis
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It's great to watch Dennis,
Given Melbournes public transport woes , there will probably be a job for her when You finish the build.
Cheers,
Mick.
Ps the sewing machine is coming along nicely 😊👍
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I didn't get anything done yesterday as it was 'father's day', I was all set up to silver solder a few items when family turned up
so I had to secure the shed as the boys like to get into everything, and that was the end of the works program.
This morning up early 0630hrs nice clear skies no breeze/wind ideal conditions for using the gas torch outside the shed, so as soon
as 0700hrs had passed I was into it, but as I only have the one spot just outside the shed door to work on it took some little time,
I always allow the job to cool in the air rarther than quench with water, anyway by mid morning I had finished using oxy/acetylene
the job was roughly assembled and an image taken
(http://i.imgur.com/S3CR89R.jpg)
I still have to make the 8 pins for the spring eyes, the tie bars need to have a radius on the top and I don't have the material to
wind my own compression springs, but overall I'm reasonably happy with it, I could have done what many others do and just had
a rocking block between each set of tie bars with just 8 compression springs for the front suspension, at least it's all my own work.
next job was to make a draw bar for the small slitting saw arbor 3MT with 1/2"whit thread, so I got a bolt from my stock of bolts
cut it off 1" above the thread, turn it down in the lathe to 1/4"od then using the M12 threaded bar, face it off, drill a 1/4" hole in the end
slip the 1/2"Whit up into it
(http://i.imgur.com/cAo19re.jpg)
I will weld it tomorrow using the Mig, then work out the length, cut off add 2 nuts weld them in place and the job is complete,
anyway that's been part of my day, as well as looking for some Land Rover bits I/m going to sell, cheers Dennis :)
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Well, like I have said many times before the best laid plans of men n mice sometimes go belly up, well it happened again this morning
nice n clear weather wise ideal for using the Mig, job set up welded in no time, allow to cool, put in 3 jaw chuck, machine it down
it looks the part
(http://i.imgur.com/LJKMZ3L.jpg)
it is a very neat fit into the hollow spindle, so I get a tad cautious here, not wanting to get something jammed in the spindle I tried it
out in the old spindle (read bent about 15<>20 thou) it fits down dragging the 1/2"Whit thread on the sides, then comes to an abrupt halt
the 1/2" Whit will not fit through the hole to engage the 3MT, damn bugger n blast it , so I do the same using the spindle in the mill, and
it's the same.
The spindle will take 12mm threaded bar, but the 1/2"Whit is a just a tad thicker, so now I will have to find another 1/2" Whit bolt so I
can cut off the threaded end, set it up in the lathe, drill n tap it M8 1.25, then using a M8 bolt with locknuts on it, apply some 'Loctite'
and screw it into the end of the 3MT arbor, then make up another draw bar, I still need to revisit that job.
Moving right along, I have since found a few issues with the drawings, just a couple of minor things that I have modified to suit my locomotive, one issue was self made, the main leaf on one of the springs was a approx 3/64" too long, I think it happened when I clamped it up to silver solder the spring eyes
so I used the jig to line it all up before clamping/silver soldering
(http://i.imgur.com/v9ZcMQf.jpg)
I was also concerned about the bottom leaf sitting inside the horn cheeks, so I modified the center bolts
(http://i.imgur.com/ZRKtk86.jpg)
and assembled with redesigned spring keeps as well
(http://i.imgur.com/vepIpXh.jpg)
all loosely fitted to the frame
(http://i.imgur.com/gKUvj5y.jpg)
still a few things to do/check before final assembly.
It has been many years since I've made a compression spring, I had to make some tools to do the job, first was the Mandrel
with a 1/16" dia hole in it
(http://i.imgur.com/sFAPGzU.jpg)
then I needed a guide, a suitable piece of steel selected, using a 0.020" slitting saw to cut a 0.010" groove along it
(http://i.imgur.com/UWUoL5c.jpg)
then check the wire fits so that it stands proud of the surface
(http://i.imgur.com/qK8p6QN.jpg)
just as well I have 2 metal turning lathes as I can't work out how to cut an Imperial thread on my new one LOL
so set it up on the older machine, run in back gear, with the leadscrew in reverse, first allow it to run on 3 coils, then engage leadscrew
(http://i.imgur.com/qK8p6QN.jpg)
to put on 7 turns of coil, before stopping and apply 3 coils, these would be ground off, but I'm not using this spring as the
wire diameter is too small it' 24SWG I need 20SWG, anyway I'm happy with the job, just shows I haven't lost he plot yet
(http://i.imgur.com/7yeDyS2.jpg)
it's big isn't it anyway cheers Dennis
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Dennis - this thread and what you are achieving is absolutely brilliant - always a great read -
Thank you
Frank
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Hi Dennis,
Yeah not bad - I've seen better LOL 😊👍
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And I agree with you Mick, so have I LOL, twiddlin my thumbs atm waiting on a 1/8" thick x 3" dia HSS slitting saw from the UK, all up cost was $37.00Au, same article here (and most likely an import from the UK) was over $130.00 +GST, no thanks cheers Dennis :)
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Well after waiting 9 days for the slitting saw to arrive it did, all excited I opened the package only to find they have sent the wrong size, I asked/paid for a 1/8" thickness blade
what I received was a 1/16" thick, damn, I sent an email but it came back overnight unable to send etc., so i found their company website and contacted them but as it's dark
in the UK atm I will have to wait probably another 24 hours
(http://i.imgur.com/ofypSLa.jpg)
I'm not at 100% atm (Influenza A) damn coughing spluttering +++ I was in the shed yesterday out of the wind rain etc making springs, but I had used the wrong Mandrel
(http://i.imgur.com/TvfaMHV.jpg)
it is so easy to make mistakes when your unwell, this is the correct mandrel the spring on the left has the correct ID, I had to make 8 all up, whilst just finishing the 7th spring
this happened
(http://i.imgur.com/iKPZtGE.jpg)
the mandrel snapped, there is a lot of pressure on the steel during a spring winding operation, and the material is only mild steel
(http://i.imgur.com/gsGlIAE.jpg)
so it's cold n windy outside, I won't be doing anything L/R wise today, so I guess I will have to turn up another mandrel for 1 spring, anyway cheers Dennis
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Back into it, as it's too miserable to be out fiddling with anything 'Solihull', I made the new mandrel and wound the last spring
(http://i.imgur.com/4TChOtM.jpg)
the finished item
(http://i.imgur.com/KGCbkSR.jpg)
To fit the compression springs I had to refit the 'horn stays' to stop the axle falling out of the frames, then looking at the job I
could see that I would need to make some washers to put under the springs, the OD of the springs is 0.200" so I turned down
some 1/4"OD mild steel bar
(http://i.imgur.com/9VPM32h.jpg)
it is now the required size
(http://i.imgur.com/XOlNNEA.jpg)
then drill up the bar with a center drill first, then using a 1/8" drill to give clearance over the tie bar, then part them off @ 3/64" thick
(http://i.imgur.com/yA9zme0.jpg)
that was no mean feat, I had to use the 90deg end of a scribing tool to catch the washers as they were parted off, anyway I've done
one wheel suspension set
(http://i.imgur.com/SALXL8s.jpg)
and visitors turned up, so that put paid to the works programme, cheers Dennis
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I'm looking forward to riding this train of yours Dennis 😊👍👍👍
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Moving along as you do sick or not, I have made the last of the pins that have to fitted to the top of the tie bars, I suppose they are mini shackle bolts and they have to be 1/2" in or 0.500"
(http://i.imgur.com/RBPWo0T.jpg)
in this image I have fitted them to the back springs, but the front springs still have temporary pins, while the 'Loctite' dries on the front pins
(http://i.imgur.com/zwXRmjC.jpg)
yesterday I fitted the pins to the other axle set, I'm up early as I'm trying to let my good wife sleep without me disturbing her with my constant coughing
(http://i.imgur.com/m4qBCK6.jpg)
I'm hoping that the suspension works as it should, at present it compresses/deflects, some other model Loco's I have seen with no leaf springs on the loco or tender
just useless (bought) springs cut down to suit, and they don't seem to have any issues, anyway there won't be much action in the shed as I have finally got an
appointment with a 'cardiologist' hopefully he will be able to sort out my issues with 'SVT', anyway cheers Dennis :)
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Moving right along as you do, the front pony truck assembly fitted n out of harms way
(http://i.imgur.com/CTrkeay.jpg)
I have to remove the motion plates from the chassis, but that can wait until after next week (cardio operation), but in the meantime I had to make 2 small brake hanger brackets
(http://i.imgur.com/U3UkRxG.jpg)
I made the pair together, marked out drilled all the clearance holes for 8BA (No43 drill size) and 3/16" dia for the hanger pins, maybe split them tomorrow after the windscreen in my 110 has been replaced
(http://i.imgur.com/m0NBObY.jpg)
as you can see the 8BA bolts I have are too short, so I looked on the net shock horror $36.00 AU for 50 set screws + postage, not likely says I, so a quick look through my hex steel supply, and yes I have the correct size, so turn it down to 8BA size which is 0.0866", I'm at 0.0863" LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/OBi5q2e.jpg)
a cut with the die and the thread is on, check that hex nut screws on without any issues, all good
(http://i.imgur.com/ZGwBgtG.jpg)
change tools and part it off
(http://i.imgur.com/wsH0UWv.jpg)
one bolt @ 5/8" in length
(http://i.imgur.com/cxgvkfK.jpg)
the hex head needs to have a slight radius on it all up time 9 minutes, I will make the other 3 tomorrow sometime, anyway cheers Dennis
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I made the remainder of the bolts after the windscreen was replaced in my 110 this morning, LOL it took me longer to replace all the electronic gizmo's back into place than the chap who did the screen anyway I'm happy with the 4 bolts, they will do nicely
(http://i.imgur.com/QdRvVB0.jpg)
anyway cheers Dennis
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Hey Dennis,
It's coming together now mate - is it a train ? 😎👍
Cheers mate,
Mick
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Dennis, you sneaky bugger, 5 pages of steam right under my nose!
Well done mate she's looking fantastic! makes me want to get off my ass and do more on my Victorian Railways H class in 5"
(http://www.victorianrailways.net/motive%20power/harry/h220late.jpg)
I also work on a mates railway, 12'', half and 1/3 size narrow gauge. you may enjoy this: he has a few other vids on the locos too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Styopwy0rOA&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Styopwy0rOA&feature=youtu.be)
Regards,
Nick
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Another puff-buff hey, I have been accumulating tooling and materials for a live steamer for a while now, and there's a 7.25" track opening about a kay from me to give further stimulus. Just need to progress the house and Landies further first...
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Have to get a move on Mark those little people come along and take all your time and money ;D
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This wasn't something I have just started to do, I started work on it in May (I think) of 1983, and worked on it on & off until around the mid 90's when teenage kids and other things took over, it sat unloved/cared for almost 20 years, until I semi-retired in August of 2015, but when you own 11 Land Rovers, 9 on club rego, 1 on full rego + 3 ex-mil trailers time seems to get away from you, as you do have to spend some time with the L/R's ;), for example I made a start on applying polish to my 110, it washed last week for the first time in months, and I have only managed to get down the RHS front<>rear, still the other side and the rear to do LOL, a 110 is a big vehicle to polish, just as well I have a few milk crates LOL cheers Dennis :)
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I've had mine about 5 years or so now, i bought it started but barely, In that time I've made the 8 axleboxes to scale and designed for cageless needle roller bearings and machined up the 20 odd smaller wheels.
Being only 27 at present, I'm hoping it may be done by my retirement. But with a series 3(full reg), 97 fender(few things to do for reg) and a dead 97 disco PLUS a 303 addiction on the side .... well you know
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I still haven't tackled the 'motion plate x 2' modification as yet, I thought I would refresh my memory on some of the do's n dont's with the mill, as I would hate to stuff the motion plates through a simple mistake, so I set about making 4 of these for the tender
(http://i.imgur.com/gdcWHyX.jpg)
material required was not available so I used a length of 1/2" square BMS, marked it out for the holes etc
(http://i.imgur.com/KO1f4eU.jpg)
then transferred the holes by moving the template along the 1/2" square bar, note that I pegged it so it couldn't move
(http://i.imgur.com/jFo3x4M.jpg)
clamped the bar on the table and milled it down to 5/16" (0.312") as the bar had to be 1/2" x 5/16"
(http://i.imgur.com/ex5TEhh.jpg)
then cut the bar at the points marked out, more marking out required, then using a 3/8"dia 4 flute end mill
(http://i.imgur.com/GV2FZak.jpg)
and after some time 3 links were machined, with one to go
(http://i.imgur.com/TIYFvtb.jpg)
the next task was to determine the radius on the ends, I decided on a 1/4" radius, and marked them out to reflect that
(http://i.imgur.com/qcGl1rg.jpg)
1 down 3 to go, but on each link there is 4 faces to be milled, I have finished 2, my back is a little weary from bending over
and peering at the end mill and bringing the cutter down approx 0.005" at a time
(http://i.imgur.com/Ru2AN8D.jpg)
the X denotes the rear face of the link, anyway that's been part of my day cheers Dennis :)
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Over Sunday last (13/11) I finished off the 4 spring equalisers, here is the last of the spacer washers
(http://i.imgur.com/adXgHbi.jpg)
they were fiddly little things, I dropped one but I was amazed to find it LOL, 3/16" in diameter and 0.035" thick (35 thou)
now to bag them up so I don't lose any of it
(http://i.imgur.com/ZIiFaPV.jpg)
cheers Dennis :)
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Dennis - Brilliant work and very precise - I wish I had your skills! - I really enjoy this post
Frank
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Another day another task, still putting off the job on the 'motion plates' until I can have a go without too many interuptions, all my Series vehicles n trailers are on club rego, all inspected a few days ago and as usual the "Prince of Darkness' Lucas strikes, with so many lights that didn't want to work but a quick bump against the panel or the light itself and on they come, and the reason is that they sit for way too long while I'm playing with something else, there is an explanation, it comes down to jealousy LOL, anyway as per club constitution I have to take one vehicle to the rego inspection day tomorrow 19th Nov, so 113-372 has been slotted for the job.
But on the days in between I have been making the ends for the brake drag beams on the tender, and I'm sorta stuck at home, the wife is away in Rockhampton Qld, my neighbour is away so I'm looking after the poodle patrol here and the Jack Russell over the fence, well at least my neighbour pays me well for looking after his 4 legged child LOL, and I was waiting on a delivery from Hare n Forbes which arrived yesterday, a coolant pump etc.
Meanwhile down in the shed I reduced a length of 1/4" dia BMS to this pile of small parts
(http://i.imgur.com/1luoYfJ.jpg)
1/8" dia shaft cross drilled 1/16" and they are to be set up and have a 1/8" wide slot across the back end to fit on the brake drag beam as per the drawings
(http://i.imgur.com/MxyoUjm.jpg)
so clean all swarf off the mill table, wipe it down to be sure then fit my rotary table/3 jaw chuck
(http://i.imgur.com/HwZXB0M.jpg)
and as you can see I have milled a 1/8" wide slot across the back face, here is a closer shot, there is not much room for error, taken down to a depth of 0.09375"(3/32")
(http://i.imgur.com/eWHM4Dn.jpg)
and after I removed the donor piece to check, I found the cutter was set 0.0005" too low, damn, I don't know if I can lift it
and still be within the desired range, methinks I will leave it as is and make sure I fit all of the the same way up onto the drag beam
here is a shot with a 6 foot length of the 1/2" x 1/8" flat bar into the slot
(http://i.imgur.com/fgfFEpR.jpg)
anyway I still have to make 113-372 ready for it's journey tomorrow, but first I have to move 5 vehicles to get it out of hibernation
cheers Dennis
ps Yes I'm now expecting a 'flood' of offers to babysit some of them LOL,.
pps STDDIVER they may look all the same but there are very minor differences in them all, as my eyesight isn't as good as it was
and I don't have DRO (digital readout) on the mill, I would have to learn from some-one how to etc, but mate Thank You for the compliment, cheers, Dennis
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All went well yesterday with club rego 113-372 got a little warm well it was quite hot (air temp 35c) and hunting along @ 55mph didn't help either, it soon cooled down when I slowed down LOL.
Late on Friday afternoon I finished cutting the 1/8" wide slot in the back of the items I had made the previous day
(http://i.imgur.com/xL6jzjC.jpg)
they will be fitted to the brake drag beams when I get around to it, I'm off today to see my mate Tim @ Mandalong, he has
a guillotine and I need to cut some brass strips and also some alloy strips for my Series 1 door seals etc, anyway cheers Dennis :)
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Gee, it's been 8 daze since I posted here ;) moving along as you do because if I don't move it along nobody will, anyway I've been playing with plate work, ? have I mentioned before I dislike platework, anyhow the throatplate & backhead needed to be milled down to the same height
(http://i.imgur.com/Bpml2UR.jpg)
the pencil marks are where the holes will be for the bolts and rivets that will hold the brass strips that can be threaded to hold the outer boiler wrapper
(http://i.imgur.com/aaZMM9z.jpg)
all holes had been drilled etc, the mushroom heads removed so it will clear the boiler as there is not much room to play with, the work area
(http://i.imgur.com/Qlyx5BE.jpg)
I wish I had a bigger shed, LOL.
All the 8 BA brass hex bolts will have to be shortened,
(http://i.imgur.com/TH0RbGp.jpg)
so I will need to add up all the thickness's of all the bits, turn some BMS bar to that thickness then tap it 8BA then machine off the excess off the brass hex/bolts so they are all the same length and will pull up tight.
I had to remove the steam dome housing and 10 of the 3BA stainless steel studs leaving 2 of them insitu then after cutting the throatplate in the center at the top, I was able to get it into place
(http://i.imgur.com/9yRciPS.jpg)
I thought at one stage and was prepared to cut the plate in half, so some dimensions were added to the base of the plate, but at this stage that's
not going to happen, it did come together at the top, albeit a small gap which did pull in under pressure with a clamp
(http://i.imgur.com/K7Preu8.jpg)
but the proof would be when it was refitted to the frame of the locomotive.
I did need to relieve the base of the throatplate using a half round file and my Dremel tool with a flap sanding wheel, so to check where it may have been a tight squeez I had to stand the boiler on it's end, I wasn't too fussed on this as we have had some siesmic activity ( nothing like N.Z) here recently and if it fell well I would just put the whole item in the bin as I'm not prepared to start from scratch again
(http://i.imgur.com/jbM7jAI.jpg)
I didn't have it up for long for obvious reasons and the plate did come together
(http://i.imgur.com/Qrxy0D9.jpg)
The next task was to lift the boiler up onto the frame, not an easy task I had to use a milk crate to stand on whilst holding/lifting the boiler onto
the frame, but because it didn't have the steam dome fitted I had nothing to hold in my left hand to guide it into the smokebox, and the more I pushed the more the loco moved along the railhead/turntable goddamn/bugger/blast it all LOL, anyway I did manage to get it secured eventually
(http://i.imgur.com/pvLgOAq.jpg)
then it was break out a torch to look for any problems it didn't take but a few seconds to find some, the throatplate had fouled the oil feed lines for the rear axle
(http://i.imgur.com/mtiJPNG.jpg)
that won't be much of an issue as I intended to cut off the throatplate just above the main blowdown valve which is located at the lowest point just above the foundation ring of the boiler, ? have I said before that I dislike plate work, well I dislike plate work, so I spent some time thinking about the current situation just looking at the engine imagining I was just a little kid looking up at this enormous engine
(http://i.imgur.com/JzNtdF5.jpg)
anyway to take my mind off it and relax I decided to turn a few small bits on the lathe for the feed valves on the boiler, they are 5/16" dia brass
with 5/16" x 32 tpi thread and I needed two of them
(http://i.imgur.com/lkuVDra.jpg)
here they are showing one end with it's 60deg cone and the other end relieved to accept the 1/4" dia copper tubing, here is the drawing for the valve
(http://i.imgur.com/vjplDLF.jpg)
anyway between all of that and rego day for all my fleet I think I have been sitting on my rear end twidling my thumbs cheers Dennis ps did I say how much I dislike platework!!!!
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Well, I had put this task off long enough, so after making 14 new smaller brass nipples for the boiler wall stays
(http://i.imgur.com/kB2FrDu.jpg)
it was time to take a few heavy items off the frame, make ready the stand to hold the engine frame etc, then lift it off the rail
and place it onto the 'rotisserie', either it's getting heavier or I'm getting weaker, damn it's heavy
(http://i.imgur.com/UzCDGOi.jpg)
the pony truck was the first item to be removed, followed by sucking out the steaming oil from the mech/lubricator
then swing it over to get to the five 6BA bolts that hold the 'motion plate' to the frame
(http://i.imgur.com/otTHHsx.jpg)
the lower one is out and I did some silent cursing etc as it was damn hard to get too, the tube spanner is a fiddly item to hold
and to get to those couple of bolts I had to work the levers through the forward/reverse to line up the tube spanner, it wasn't
too long and the motion plate was off
(http://i.imgur.com/6AAfrwA.jpg)
I had made these small bits some time ago and 4 x 8BA bolts that I could only buy in packs of 50 when I only needed 4
(http://i.imgur.com/it4ffTo.jpg)
whilst undo the cross head/connecting rod, I dropped the cross head bolt through a gap in the benchtop, I also dropped the open ended spanner as well, I consider myself very lucky that I ws able to find both items, considering what's under the bench LOL sigh.
tomorrow I will mark out where the brake hanger block is to be fitted etc, drill all holes, then the inside face of the motion plate
has to be milled down to a thickness of 0.125 (1/8") this will allow the brake block/hanger etc to clear the front driving wheels
then I can cross drill the brake hanger block to locate the hanger pin in the bolt face of the motion plate, all very fiddly and time consuming
anyway cheers Dennis :)
ps I'm now waiting on a parcel of 'Imperial' sized steel from the UK, as it's not available here in Oz anywhere,,.
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Nice n warm here today, which required the ceiling fan going while working @ the milling machine, the motion plate is all marked out, brake hanger bracket clamped and the motion plate drilled through with a No 43 drill (clearance size for 8BA)
(http://i.imgur.com/w36T0yL.jpg)
then move it over to the mill and set it up with clamps to hold it
(http://i.imgur.com/LRUlKrP.jpg)
at this point I thought I'd better make a wobbler/pointer so I could check that the end mill would not track outside the scribed lines
(http://i.imgur.com/4kPsmGU.jpg)
and it didn't, so it was out with that chuck and in with the collet chuck and 3/8" dia 4 flute end mill, the first cut (and it's not the deepest cut LOL)
(http://i.imgur.com/iMaiXd2.jpg)
it took about 4 passes with the end mill and I had it down to the 1/8" thickness that is on the plan.
Next was to apply the 2 x 8BA bolts clamp it all up on the drill press, transfer a mark to the plate using a 3/16" dia drill, then swap for a 1/8" drill
(http://i.imgur.com/vvr2x9d.jpg)
and here it is all loosely fitted up on the frame
(http://i.imgur.com/gJHe7lD.jpg)
there is still a bit of fiddling to do with the RHS motion plate/brake hanger assembly before I put it all back together and do the LHS, all this work is really for show, as the brakes would not stop the engine/tender & a person sitting on it, braking will provided via a riding truck, anyway that was enough fun for one day LOL, tomorrow after I get home from taking 'Monty' our Pomeranian in a Santa suit over to where I used to work, the older folk there love him and will be pleased to see him. anyway cheers Dennis :)
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Coming along there Dennis,
Wont be long until you get to fire it up!
Are your blueprints scaled down from the original locomotive or made especially for your project?
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The blueprints/plans were drawn up by Ernie Winter back in 1981, the scale is 1 1/16" (inch & a sixteenth) to the foot scale, taken from the original plans of the 'P' or 32 class NSWGR loco, Ernie has a background in Fitting/machining, Architecture, he did take over a an older established business O B Bolton scale models, then after a few years changed the business name to his own E & J Winter which Ernie sold after suffering major issues after a car crash, the business is now owned by a younger chap who lives Lithgow/Bathurst area of NSW.
When I bought my blueprints all 20+ sheets they cost me back in 1983 $90.00, now they are almost 3 times that amount, I can clearly remember my 1st wife's father (fitter/machinist) saying to me "I think you have bitten off more than you can chew" well I never forgot that and I'm sure if he were alive today he would think twice about that statement, anyway if I had stayed with it back in the mid 90's it would be well n truly finished, my mentor Mr John Austin R.I.P passed away in Aug 2006,
(http://i.imgur.com/0lScX43.jpg)
and as far as I know there isn't anyone in the town where I live who has an interest in building anything like what I'm doing, so I'm kinda sorta on my own, and it takes me some time to work out the 'how to' aspect of some jobs, but I reckon for an old bloke with no trade skills, I'm not doing too badly I think LOL anyway cheers Dennis :)
ps My friend John was a WW2 veteran (New Guinea) but was bought back to Australia because of his trade background and he worked and drove trucks up n down 'The track' now known as the Stuart hwy N.T.,,.
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The blueprints/plans were drawn up ........in the scale 1 1/16" (inch & a sixteenth) to the foot
If you don't mind me saying, but what a prick of a scale to work with. How do you go converting an actual measurement like 28' 7 1/8" to scale? Give me metric anyday!!! or something neater like an Inch to the Foot. I've messed around in O Scale in the Aust/UK scale of 43.5:1 (which sounds better when you say 7mm to the Foot), which is much trickier than the US standard 48:1 (1/4" to the foot).
When I bought my blueprints ... back in 1983, I can clearly remember my 1st wife's father (fitter/machinist) saying to me "I think you have bitten off more than you can chew" well I never forgot that and I'm sure if he were alive today he would think twice about that statement,
Keep on chewing and you can finish anything! A lesson learnt in an Army mess.
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Well it has been very warm in the workshop over the past few days, no A/C down there only a ceiling fan but I suppose I have it a lot better than some folks who frequent this site. Tony, I don't have to convert anything as the dimensions are on the plans so I guess that makes it easier for a dumb 'B' like me ;D.
I did manage to finish the Fireman's side motion plate and remount it
(http://i.imgur.com/HRhG8vh.jpg)
the brake shoe fitted but it still needs a little bit of fetling to get the profile right, it looks better right side up
(http://i.imgur.com/aXVXaJO.jpg)
with that out of the way, it was time to unbolt the stand from the bench and turn it 180 degrees so I could dismantle the Drivers side Motion plate
(http://i.imgur.com/eRcBNj4.jpg)
and there is that hard to get at bottom bolt 6 BA, a tight squeeze nestled near the lubricator
(http://i.imgur.com/c0fcIY1.jpg)
I made a small stuff up, (forgot what I was doin) anyway I had to mill all the way to the top of the M/plate, the mistake will not be seen
(http://i.imgur.com/3HYGK1j.jpg)
my steel order arrived from the UK (Chronos) it consists of 1/2" x 1/8" flat bar, 1/4"Square bar hese are needed for brake drag beams etc on the 8 wheel tender.
The brake shoe profile is going to take me some time to get it right, the one of the right was done almost 30 years ago, and I'm
having trouble trying to recall how I did it,
(http://i.imgur.com/KoS5sWU.jpg)
anyway no rush to stuff it up LOL as I could manage that quite easily, anyway cheers Dennis :)
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Congratulations again Dennis - Beautiful work - Merry Christmas too.
Frank
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Well, it's been a while since I have posted anything in here, what with Christmas/New Year, daughter down from Rockhampton in Qld with her 3 kids for a month, a few shifts working with physically/intellectually disabled young adults, issues with Land Rovers, getting them ready for an Air Show etc etc, man have I been busy.
The Locomotive took a back seat whilst the visitors were here, as I couldn't concentrate using the lathe as one of them is near the shed door and the baby could walk in and cop some swarf, so not a lot happened, and the other issue, I had bought a few machine tools off ebay and they took their time getting here as well, but I have managed to get a move on.
I waited for a Fly Cutter that I needed to profile the brake shoes, I thought I had bought it from a seller here in Oz, turns out it was just a front for an extra $10.00 Au as it came from India
(http://i.imgur.com/Ea3V3nPl.jpg)
it did the job without any problems, the brakes are all fitted the mechanism moves back n forth, but they are only cosmetic value, as they will not stop the locomotive.
The front Pony truck had to come back off, as I needed to cross drill the pivot, but to get the pivot out I had to remove the oil check valve for the steam chests, very fiddly job, image slightly blurred sorry
(http://i.imgur.com/0aXvdjSl.jpg)
getting the delivery oil line back onto the pump was damn difficult, I did some silent swearing I can assure you
(http://i.imgur.com/2cAuaInl.jpg)
but it's all back together now, hopefully it will not have to come off again
(http://i.imgur.com/sKUPDhGl.jpg)
Now with those tasks out of the way, I needed to refit the running boards, as they have a mounting point just under where the boiler expansion plate is, the running boards are held in place by 5BA set screws, but they are only 5/32" in length,
(http://i.imgur.com/Lb2qbiPl.jpg)
they are way too long, so I had to make something to hold them whilst they were being shortened, a short length of hex/brass was drilled n tapped 5BA
(http://i.imgur.com/sHKYh4ol.jpg)
this did the job nicely
(http://i.imgur.com/UaWMXOZl.jpg)
I had to do this as I needed to make the boiler expansion plate brackets x 2
(http://i.imgur.com/hGzldm5l.jpg)
I quickly made a rough forming tool,
(http://i.imgur.com/b73oN7cl.jpg)
marked out some 1/16" thickness steel, drilled them the tapping drill size for 6BA
that will make it easier to transfer the holes when I'm ready to do it, the tool was put into action in the bench vice
(http://i.imgur.com/7XU0Z3al.jpg)
that was the first stage a 90 deg bend then
(http://i.imgur.com/7XU0Z3al.jpg)
and it looks like this x 2, you can see why I needed to mount the running boards as it's all very close
(http://i.imgur.com/7XU0Z3al.jpg)
the top edge will need to be trimmed to size, but not just yet.
Before fitting the boiler to the frame, I wanted to make a new Ash Pan, I had made one 20+ years ago from mild steel
but over the past 15 months or so, I thought about the long term viability of having it in steel, ? it may rust out/burn out and I didn't fancy having to dismantle the locomotive to build another, so I bought some brass sheet and set about making it
(http://i.imgur.com/mFd0byW.jpg)
here is the brass sheet, sitting on 2 x saw horses, as the temperature outside the shed was a whopping 47c, I was working only in shorts (n underwear of course) no shirt, I was swimming in sweat I can tell you
(http://i.imgur.com/Lf1teEo.jpg)
I had made some adjustments to the fire box grate as well
(http://i.imgur.com/Iq54ckr.jpg)
It has been marked out using all manner of small tools, including my optical center punch
(http://i.imgur.com/CZOwIY5.jpg)
all parts were marked out, but my mate who lives 45 k's away wasn't going to be home for several days, so I didn't have
access to his guillotine, he has often said just come down and use it, but my luck would be that some low life had been there stole a heap of stuff, I turn up and some one see's me in my very distinctive 110 and I would be the prime suspect, so I had to twiddle my thumbs so to speak for a few daze.
Not to be outdone, and waste too much time, I made 8 small pivots for the 8 wheel tender, these are pivot pins for the suspension on the tender
(http://i.imgur.com/My3ljQU.jpg)
very small and fiddly, but I made the 8 of them without any stuff up's and the temp was up there at 46c again
(http://i.imgur.com/y24ijYC.jpg)
this is where they fit on the tender frames
(http://i.imgur.com/cFRiGCQ.jpg)
My mate Tim, rang me last night, he is home and I went there this morning to use Madam Guillotine, you make no mistakes doing this or you lose your head (get cranky++++ with self) anyway all went well no stuff ups
(http://i.imgur.com/0av9jYH.jpg)
it was pouring rain at Tim's property, I love the sound of rain on a tin roof, I have a hearing deficit (too many years of shooting large calibre weapons Rifle/pistols) but the rain was heavy enough for me to hear it Lovely sound, anyway back at home, I had to remove the excess brass material using a hack saw, the first cut is always the deepest LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/UiKppab.jpg)
then some judicious filing with both pieces of the brass sheet clamped together so they end up being identical, I have made it almost the same size as the drawing
(http://i.imgur.com/xsmHlWr.jpg)
the next step was the form the lower floor section with it's radius, some off cuts of steel and a short length of 5/8" dia round bar, as I made the radius on the plate using using a 5/8" dia washer to mark it out, a quick heat with Mapp gas, quench mark it out clamp it tap it around the bar and it was done
(http://i.imgur.com/uD5X6s4.jpg)
all that's needed there is a quick wipe with a half round file and it will fit like a finger in a dogs bum LOL, anyway I have turned up the stainless steel pin that will hold the grate in position, it has a 3/16 x 40tpi on it with 2 nuts either side, the whole assembly will be riveted together and most likely silver soldered as well, anyway that's about where I'm up to at the moment cheers Dennis :)
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You continue to amaze me Dennis 😊👍
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Thank you Mick, but I still class myself as an amatuer cheers Dennis :)
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Another quick trip to my mates place to visit Mlle Guillotine to cut the bottom plate and the swinging doors for the Ash pan, and I had also marked out some 1/16" thick steel for the brake rigging on the 8 wheel tender
(http://i.imgur.com/GfOsz7zl.jpg)
the steel rigging plates have to have a 1/8" wide slot milled in them in 2 places, so I guess I will be making a jig to hold them while that job is tasked.
Anyway moving along as I do, it was very warm in the shed, another day with my shirt off LOL, it was fun using the lathe turning down a hardened steel punch so it would fit into a small space to set brass rivets, all bits of brass that make up the Ash pan had been marked left/right/up/down sideways etc, so after double checking I got out a selection of brass angle (90deg) and chose the 1/4" wide brass angle, lined it up and attached 2 x small engineers clamps to hold it while a 1/16" dia drill was used to make the holes for the rivets
(http://i.imgur.com/4Lnk1Bbl.jpg)
I had to ask my T/A aka wife LOL, for assistance as I couldn't hold the job and the hammer/punch while seating the job over the punch, she did help but wasn't keen as it was hot in the shed even with the fan going (did you see the stuff up in the last image, last Wednesday after pushing a lawn mower for 2.5 hours in the heat @ the model train track, I was a bit be muddled and drilled a hole in both plates, which had to be repaired, so it was turn down some brass bar fit it to the hole peen it over, file it flat, if you closely you can see the file marks near the radius) anyway it was check and recheck again before I went on to the next part of the job
(http://i.imgur.com/jINP8frl.jpg)
then set it up on the upturned boiler to double check again
(http://i.imgur.com/rWwkW4gl.jpg)
the plates are now riveted in place with the exception of the upper floor, I will attempt to bend it up in the morning and rivet in the brass angle to support it
(http://i.imgur.com/bl77Y3zl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/v8iU7nPl.jpg)
well that's been most of my day, cheers Dennis :)
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You may rate yourself as an amateur Dennis, but your a skilled amateur and a very clever man. I very much enjoy seeing your work.
Jon
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Moving right along as you do ;), it was very warm & humid in the shed again today, another shirt off day and the ceiling fan going flat out, I had a sleepless night, turned on the A/C @ 0030hrs still wide awake and thinking about how I can fit the firebox grate without having a hole through the chassis, as that would be a nightmare trying to calculate where the hole would have to be drilled to pick up the holes in the Ash pan, no thanks,
Check check and check again the idea I had worked out in my head I'm fairly confident that it will work, it does require yet another slight modification to the firebox grate and will be attached to the drop plate on the bottom of the Ash pan.
But as usual something always gets in the way, the first problem I encountered was that the firebox wall stays 1/4" dia copper bar, the lower 5 on each side are way too long on the inside of the firebox, so I reduced their height by 3/16" of an inch
(http://i.imgur.com/G3HwtJNl.jpg)
it took me almost 1 hour of careful use of a hacksaw blade to get the job done, those 10 wall stays were just too long, now the firebox grate does move freely within the space, which now gives me the confidence with brain's truss that was going on in my mind overnight, my brain just goes like a slideshow, it hasn't done so since I finished the Series 1, but over the past 17 years it has given me a bloody workout at night LOL, tomorrow I will draw up a rough drawing of what I think will work other than drilling a hole through the chassis.
After completing that task, I set about working out how I could bend the 1mm brass that I had to make fit as part of the Ash pan upper floor over the swinging door, so out with the 'mapp gas' torch to anneal the brass, quench it, mark it, bend it in the vice, I could have taken another 70k round trip to my mate Tim's place to use his bender, but I knew I was capable of doing it with what limited resources I have to bend plate here, to shorten a long story I was able to do so without any issues,a quick check to make sure it didn't foul anything and it lined up as good as a amatuer can do, so I set about drilling a series of holes for the rivets
(http://i.imgur.com/PdkC03Wl.jpg)
and again I had to ask my T/A (wife) to hold the job while I set the rivets
(http://i.imgur.com/4VX5wkil.jpg)
tomorrow I have to attend a car club run, so it will be well after midday before I can make a start on anything, cheers Dennis :)
ps I will have to make a rough sketch of the front mount idea I have for the firebox grate and share it,,.
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Only half a day's play today (car club meeting/runday) and the same tomorrow (work), but I'll make the best of it.
This afternoon I managed to mark out/cut/bend the removable floor for the Ashpan and make the drop pin
(http://i.imgur.com/2XKpQQol.jpg)
it still has to have the bent tab shaped, the pin is Stainless steel with a brass knurled knob
(http://i.imgur.com/8lzXOxDl.jpg)
the other end has 1/16"dia hole for a 'R' clip, to secure it, and it has a 8deg taper to help ease it through the holes
(http://i.imgur.com/EdiYRUyl.jpg)
I have drawn what I think will work to hold the firebox grate in position, rarther than drill a hole through the chassis, it will be fixed to the drop plate, but loose on the grate
(http://i.imgur.com/3GxJ7BQl.jpg)
anyway that has been my afternoon, cheers Dennis :)
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Well done Dennis - "as good as an amateur can do'? this sells you far short of your ability!!!! - Your work is first rate!
I love the thread
Frank ;)
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A few hours here n there, a few steps forward slowly, I have been doing other things as well today, but did manage some hours on the tools, here are the 2 x 5/16"ME x 32 tpi nuts being made
(http://i.imgur.com/lYcrkddl.jpg)
and the vertical brass hex bar/nuts x 2
(http://i.imgur.com/BExVJ7Tl.jpg)
I had a slight change from the rough drawing and decided I needed a brass pinch bolt, so I made one from 1/4" brass hex
(http://i.imgur.com/Fsb2n9Kl.jpg)
The vertical brass hex (7/16") was set up in the mill after being marked out, a series of holes were needed, all were spot drilled with a No1 center drill, then using a 9/64" drill (tapping size for 3/16" Whitworth) then taken 1/3 through with a 3/16" dia drill to allow the bolt to pass through, the other end was cross drilled in a similar manner but only with a 1/16" dia drill, for a 1/16" split pin, just for safety sake
(http://i.imgur.com/PlY3yfxl.jpg)
then after the 5/16"ME x 32 tpi thread was cut on the end, then using a 'V' block to hold the brass bar, and using a small length of brass as a tapping guide (to keep the tap @ right angles to the job) here it is in the vice
(http://i.imgur.com/ncqtmtcl.jpg)
I marked out the rectangular bar that will connect the two items to the fire box grate
it was also drilled 3/16" dia a radius applied to the end to allow me to move it through a range so as to get the correct angle and nip it up (and possibly Silver Solder it as well) I'm sure if you have looked at the rough drawing you will get the idea
(http://i.imgur.com/QfssAXkl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6VBa7Q3l.jpg)
anyway that's been part of my day, cheers Dennis :)
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A few hours in the shed (after helping my T/A wife her project succulents!!! LOL) anyway I shouldn't whinge but time is wasted wot's not spent in the shed.
I did some checking and re checking
then decided on a number and marked it out and drilled it, no turning back now
(http://i.imgur.com/Y7DglQ1l.jpg)
this is the drop door off the Ash pan, it has been drilled to accept the support bar for the firebox grate
(http://i.imgur.com/760Pyr5l.jpg)
I had to remove the peened over edge first on both sides of the grate, then remove the middle spacer, work out where the support bar had to be, mark it drill it n cut it, refit to the firebox grate
it all fitted like the proverbial finger in a dog's rear end
(http://i.imgur.com/QC5K44Fl.jpg)
the grate sits about 3mm lower than the plan, but I don't think I will lose any sleep over it, and from just holding it in my hand you can remove the pin and take out the grate in one easy operation, I just hope it's the same when I try it in the chassis of the locomotive.
The next task was to offer up the Ash pan to the lower half of the boiler, I had to make 2 small notch marks in what is the inner firebox wrapper to allow the 3/16" diameter stainless steel bar that supports the grate at the rear, then roughly mark out where I'm going to drill through the Ash Pan into that inner wrapper to hold the Ash pan in place
(http://i.imgur.com/Sm0DBfCl.jpg)
The next dilemma is to work out how many bolts I think I might need to hold the Ash pan insitu, as the plan doesn't say nor mention how to hold the Ash pan in place, so after much umming n arring I decided 5BA would be strong enough to hold it in place, now will 4 be enough (2 each side) or should I go for 6, I decided on 6, 3 each side, but the next issue was I don't have any Brass 5BA bolts, no problem really, just make them
(http://i.imgur.com/3iDt9Thl.jpg)
they are very small and fiddly I had made 3 but somehow I dropped one on the floor and didn't realise I had, so *&^% knows where that is
(http://i.imgur.com/25dL4igl.jpg)
so I made another before calling it a day, maybe after helping my nieghbour fix his mower in the morning, I will make the others, and drill n tap the holes, wish me luck, cheers Dennis :)
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A few more hours wiled away in the shed again, this morning I sat down and looked at the drawing for the swing door for the Ash pan, took some time thinking about how to go about without stuffing it up, anyway the brass I cut recently for the job was marked out and cut, ready to have the ends bent over using my custom made 4" folding press LOL aka steel vice
(http://i.imgur.com/8drvhhbl.jpg)
it was a tight fit and needed to be fiddled with somewhat to get it near enough, I had to apply force to the upper floor plate to increase the bend angle to clear the top of the swing door and it was still a tight fit, so I set it up and milled the surfaces
(http://i.imgur.com/vGEXHwJl.jpg)
this allowed it to fit, but it was still very close, so a little more fiddling I suppose
(http://i.imgur.com/zRbUaJNl.jpg)
It was time to work out the spacing for the 5BA brass bolts that I made a few days ago, they were spaced fairly evenly, then the Ash pan was drilled both sides on the drill press with a tapping size drill for 5BA (No39), the Ash pan was secured to the boiler, tapped firmly into place and using the No 39 drill 3 holes were drilled through the plate, then tapped using a intermediate tap, and being very gentle as Copper will gall up and you could end up with a broken tap, thankfully that didn't happen, I lubed the tap with wd40, making a start and backing off repeat/repeat /repeat until it was right through, then I cleared the flutes of any debris before taking the tap back into the copper whilst removing it, here it is with the right hand side & 3 bolts in place
(http://i.imgur.com/K3PE9wvl.jpg)
Then I had to move a but of gear, collect 2 saw horses, lift the boiler down off the bench and place it upside down, while I double checked again
(http://i.imgur.com/U2wwpGEl.jpg)
the three holes were drilled into the copper, the Ash pan was removed so the holes could be enlarged to a clearing size which for 5BA is a No 30 drill, then the holes were tapped very carefully, so as not to bugger up the job at this late stage
(http://i.imgur.com/Q15PLzKl.jpg)
the brass bar has a 9/64" dia hole which is just large enough to allow the 5BA tap through, this helps keep the tap vertical and at right angles to the job.
The next small task was to put a small bend on the bottom edge of the swing door,
(http://i.imgur.com/3FzUxe4l.jpg)
that didn't take too long, I should have gone to the local speed shop and got a few small circlips, then I could have made the bar that the door pivots on, it will have be circlips as there is really no room for any protrusions I think, the next big test will be to see if it all fits inside the frame/axleboxes, gee I hope it does or I'm going to be shattered, anyway fingers XXX'd cheers Dennis :)
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Well another day another set of problems, mainly caused by myself LOL, I had the assistance of my T/A aka wife, she helped me get the locomotive stand out from behind the milling machine where it has stood for more than 25 years, it was a difficult task make even more so by the proximity of the Workshop trailer and other things, but it was retrieved without any drama's, it is currently sitting outside just in case I will need it's services again, probably sooner than later LOL.
Again with my assistant assisting, I lifted the boiler off the bench and placed it on saw horses out on the lawn (because if it fell it would dent the grass/lawn, if over concrete well I hate to think), and again with my assistant assisting we lifted the locomotive frame down from it's turntable over the bench, to the rail outside, I must admit that there's no way I could have managed without her help, crikey it's getting heavy
(http://i.imgur.com/MW7jjv1l.jpg)
Before moving the locomotive frame I measured between the horn cheeks on the rear axle and the Ash pan was 0.016" wider (that's about 5 pubic hairs laid side by side), anyway the boiler sat on the horn cheeks but with just a gentle bump it fell down into position, I was pleased with that outcome, but another problem just sprang up
(http://i.imgur.com/ptpt1yHl.jpg)
the Ash pan drop floor sits directly over a brake drag beam, which I suppose could be an issue, but the bigger issue is I cannot remove the drop pin as it fouls the brake gear
(http://i.imgur.com/J5jnhgll.jpg)
So to say I was dis-heartened is an under statement, so I sat down next to it and pondered my next move, I can see now why on the plan it has a drop pin through the locomotive frames, but I still do not want to go down that path, I have decided to turn up a pin from mild steel 3/16" dia, and again with help from my T/A put the locomotive back on the rail and refit the boiler with a plain pin, to see if it can be withdrawn from either side, when the connecting rods are at their lowest point, fingers XXXX'd.
The boiler sits squarely on the frame, which was one good point in the mornings exercise
(http://i.imgur.com/TxBPSfIl.jpg)
and from the side it all appears to be A1
(http://i.imgur.com/8Q781Qpl.jpg)
and just for interest sake, the loco over the front buffers is 995mm in length and damn heavy to boot, I took some other images checking clearance along the sides of the boiler barrel
(http://i.imgur.com/7DUQIsal.jpg)
just checking to make sure
(http://i.imgur.com/3UC0xkCl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vf3d70jl.jpg)
but this will annoy me and send my mind into a frenzy especially if I wake during the night, I will not be able to stop the slide show that will be going on in my mind's eye
(http://i.imgur.com/MzbuqbBl.jpg)
? is there just enough clearance to allow a 3/16" dia pin to exit through one side of the frame without colliding with something, time will tell, cheers Dennis :)
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Before moving the locomotive frame I measured between the horn cheeks on the rear axle and the Ash pan was 0.016" wider (that's about 5 pubic hairs laid side by side),
It's always good to have another "Rule of Thumb" to judge clearances, but I couldn't get this one to work to verify it. Do you lay them straight first, or are your verniers curved??
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It has been some time since I last posted in here, but I have been busy with other things as well as doing small jobs on locomotive parts, the biggest time waster over a period was my older lathe.
It had developed an annoying rattle in the idler pulley system, so I hadn't used it in some time I decided to look into the matter, and as it turns out there is always more to the story than you imagined in the first instance, after surveying the situation, I couldn't budge the shaft that the Yoke pivoted on, the shaft at the bottom of image
(http://i.imgur.com/6lJFSBkl.jpg)
crikey I must be getting weak as in my older age LOL, anyway after thinking about a solution I came up with an idea for a puller, a 5/16" dia bolt and a Land Rover one at that (one of the 3 that go through the chassis holding the bulkhead in an upright position, anyway I had to run the thread down the bolt to make it serviceable, a short piece of water pipe, and a machined collar for the bolt/nut puller to work off
(http://i.imgur.com/ovoBNv1l.jpg)
then find the center of the shaft, center dot it, drill it out until the tapping size for 5/16"UNF, then tap the hole
(http://i.imgur.com/AS4vVRvl.jpg)
thinking to self whilst doing this, break a drill or a tap in here pack up n go home LOL, anyway that didn't happen and in no time I had the shaft dislodged
(http://i.imgur.com/15M6Eq1l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IbHnNEIl.jpg)
in no time I had the Yoke out and on the bench, the problem soon became apparent
(http://i.imgur.com/o2qkHb8l.jpg)
At some time long before I owned the machine, some nincompoop (aka Numpty but not our 'NUMPTY' who frequents this site LOL) made a new shaft for some reason or another, but when they made it they didn't allow enough length for the bearing at 12.5mm wide, so the pulley was unsupported on the outer edge which incidentally is the Hi-speed side from the electric motor and with wear etc it began to flop about.
So I took myself to Maitland to a steel merchant and purchased various sizes in BMS round that I couldn't buy here at home, in no time I had measured up and made a new shaft with the extra length needed to support the pulley
(http://i.imgur.com/C9qpNUcl.jpg)
next task was to mill a 3/16" wide keyway but alas I didn't have a 3/16" end mill, nor did I have a 3/16" key cutter, anyway a mate owns a very big 'engineering works' locally so for a carton of alcohol he cut the keyway, but I had to wait a bit over a week for the job, stilll cheaper than me buying the tools LOL.
While this was happening I continued working slowly on my project I currently have a good dose of Bronchitis which has slowed me a tad, I set up the brake rigging plates and milled the 1/8" wide slots in them one @ 1/2" in length the other @ 11/16"
(http://i.imgur.com/G9lbw1Jl.jpg)
it ended up being 0.009" (9thou) too short LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/rasCTtil.jpg)
the plans for the rigging plate on the tender
(http://i.imgur.com/6K3N9nBl.jpg)
it didn't take too long to set up the opposite side and mill the slot @ 11/16" in length
(http://i.imgur.com/8h2xyK9l.jpg)
the boiler has been sitting on the bench for a period of time as well, I was waiting on some tools to arrive from O/sea's when they did eventually turn up, I got into reducing the height of all the copper wall stays on the 'Belpaire' they are all now down under the boiler cladding
(http://i.imgur.com/j6fmke8l.jpg)
but I'm waiting on a wooden former that a friend is making so I can form the cladding over, so that job has hit the wall again LOL.
Meanwhile earlier this week I had made arrangements to take my S2A Gunbuggy to Dungog, to have them look at the carburettor (Solex), I had the throttle spindle body rebuilt about 6 months or so back and as I've said before I can pull them apart and put them back together without looking at a book, but I can't tune them, anyway I had the Solex to pieces last week and blew it out with compressed air @ 120psi off my 42CFM compressor, to me it seemed to be running OK but I still wanted them to do something with it.
Early Tuesday morning last I was up early 0600hrs and on the road by 0640hrs, I was dressed for the occassion with a military 'Japara' coat on (wet weather gear) I had only traveled about 2 miles when it started to sprinkle rain but before too long it was raining then it bucketed down all the way to Dungog, I was drenched, here is the little wet truck in the wksp
(http://i.imgur.com/9pZOmZPl.jpg)
the image was taken after about 1 hour standing there, but water droplets can be seen on the aero screens, I wasn't looking forward to the 54 mile drive home, and yes I did get wet again, the story with the Solex is that they seem to think the choke assembly is worn out, so I don't what to do about it as yet.
Meanwhile the shaft with it's keyway arrived, so a few thoughts on how to re-assemble it on the bench, using a small amount of 'Loctite' on the bearings and the shaft, I had made the shaft an interference fit but I didn't want it to come loose at some time in the future, anyway it all went together without any fuss
(http://i.imgur.com/bdvfhTYl.jpg)
I forgot to mention that I had to cut the drive belt from the head stock to the yoke pulleys, as I didn't want to remove the head stock, I did replace oil seals in there about 20 years ago, and I remembered how heavy it was, so I was on the net looking for 'Brammer' belting, I did find a company in Victoria, they had in stock 'B' size Brammer belting so I paid for 1 meter of it, it duly arrived a few days later, the yoke assembly was offered up into place and went in fairly easy, I had also replaced the pivot shaft that the Yoke was supported on
(http://i.imgur.com/KktHtS7l.jpg)
I started up the lathe and it was quiet, but after releasing the tension on the belt a few times, I noticed that the Yoke was able to move sideways about 3mm or so, so I found a suitable size of Bronze bar, drilled a pilot hole then bored the center to a whisker over 20mm, then parted it off at 3mm, this was then placed between the Yoke and where the pivot shaft came up against it's mount, this now has given the Idler pulley (which was the root cause of the issue) about 4mm clearance from the side of the lathe body
(http://i.imgur.com/ntjatm4l.jpg)
it is now good to know that I have 2 lathes that are at my disposal for any task that might come up in the not too distant future, well at least I know how to cut Imperial threads on my old lathe anyway that's been a peek into the last few weeks, cheers Dennis :)
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Looking fantastic mate.
Just a quick thought on the ash pan door, what if you were to hinge it at the rear. then have a flat bar with a pin off the lower end come up to the cab floor in such an angle that when pulled rearwards would lift the door closed and to drop you push forward?
I'm guessing there would be a similar linkage set up to the rear damper.
Another important thing to think about is your fire irons and how you intend on cleaning out the ash pan. On the big engines we hose them out. which you could do through the rear damper or even firebox door with the right bend and flatten in a copper pipe on the garden hose.
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Where does the time go, I haven't posted in here for almost 5 weeks, but I do have a legitimate excuse, very busy with all manner of things Steam driven and petrol powered LOL.
April was a big month for all manner of things, Steamfest 2017 in Maitland New South Wales where I went to secondary school (high school) back then I travelled everyday by train the 18 mile journey to and 18 miles home then on my bicycle for the 2 miles home from the railway station, rain cold weather, or stinking hot, boy they were the daze not.,.
Anyway back to the present (well a month ago) up early on the Saturday of Steamfest and off to Maitland by road in my 1984 110 County
(http://i.imgur.com/fDvJdCW.jpg)
I always park about half a mile away and walk down a quiet lane that runs alongside the rail line, it's impossible to get a parking space otherwise, earlier during the weeks leading up to this event I treid to get permission from the organisers to have my Series 1 on display with some other of the other older cars and the odd Land Rover, but I gave up after getting the run around
(http://i.imgur.com/qgIQFSp.jpg)
as I said I was there early and quite a few of the traction/stationery engines were still in the process of getting a head of steam, there were some exhibits from the N.S.W Powerhouse museum in Sydney, they have been restored top notch
(http://i.imgur.com/ZxvIsE5.jpg)
and this stationery engine a 'Roby' later in the morning it was running several steam powered items but I wasn't near enough to catch any of the action
(http://i.imgur.com/w4e4yZk.jpg)
there were locomotives taking passengers to various destinations but I didn't bother I just wandered about the site, here is 3642 headed for Paterson
(http://i.imgur.com/wzDlyXW.jpg)
and the 'Tin Hares' powered by AEC diesel engines
(http://i.imgur.com/r3NThxE.jpg)
steam was everywhere in full size and in scale size as well
(http://i.imgur.com/c3I2Q8a.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/W55TvQc.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NjbujmV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Kwnrw9O.jpg)
a barn find this old jalopy I think it was a Willies 'OverLander' the tyres were replaced 40 years ago
and were still inflated, the chap who bought it is not going to restore it he said, and not even going
to attempt to start it, which I thought was a bit odd, but I suppose that's what makes the world go around
but I reckon a hour would see it running
(http://i.imgur.com/7zGEgEz.jpg)
my late Dad did his apprenticeship with Albion Motors in Glasgow before WW2, I have always liked british trucks especially
the AEC Matador's 4 x 4,
(http://i.imgur.com/YqWBGzl.jpg)
There was a large photographic display as well, they sorta frowned on people taking images, but I
managed to sneak this one, it shows a Robinson R.O.D pulling a 'mixed goods' away from Cessnock
in about 1962, these locomotives were used by the British Army during WW1 in France, several of them were
purchased by the coal company J.A.Brown and used on the Richmond Railway system here in the Hunter Valley of NSW
(http://i.imgur.com/LBGCYYo.jpg)
it is rumoured that one of the loco's that he bought here to Oz hauled the peace train to sign the treaty of Versaille, but
their is no hard proof of that, all but 3 now survive in varying states of decay, and I forgot to add that on the Wednesday before Steamfest I helped out with the clubs (Lake Macquarie Live Steamers) set up the portable track in the fairground, it took some time to set it up on the ground lots of helping hands make light work.
The following weekend over the Easter break the Lake Macquarie live steam held the 2017 Convention at their track in Edgeworth , I hadn't attended a convention since 1988, but I wasn't disappointed plenty of locomotives from all over Australia, I didn't camp overnight as I'm only 35 minutes away but some club members stayed in their caravans onsite and they lived locally LOL, anyway some images of what was there, here are some in the shunting yard
(http://i.imgur.com/C3LjO69.jpg)
and here is the 7.25" unloading steaming bay
(http://i.imgur.com/Um6hRbQ.jpg)
there were 5 Black Fives in attendance all of them looked fantastic
(http://i.imgur.com/G7vF9UB.jpg)
and I think there was a Green black five as well LOL, I liked this NSWGR 13class loco in 7.25"
(http://i.imgur.com/memBhoC.jpg)
this truck was a very neat example of a 'Foden' the present owner didn't build it he bought it off the builder
who was getting on in years and couldn't get on n off it without some difficulty so sadly he sold it
(http://i.imgur.com/EfUNd75.jpg)
here is a freelance 32class engine, I haven't clue as the what valve gear it was running, it still had some features of the 32
but not many, too each his own I suspect
(http://i.imgur.com/Z5wb0x5.jpg)
The next week was a blur for me as the 25th was approaching fast and I had spent too much time doing other
things, I really needed to be checking all the fleet for the 25th, it was full on for my one man band, cleaning checking fluids/oil levels etc, buying fuel and make sure that I put fuel in all of them, I didn't want a repeat of last year where 1 Land Rover ran out of petrol during the parade, very embarrassing to say the least, all vehicles were road tested and made look
very smart for the morning of, so it was up very early for me 0530hrs to move things about here aka "Op Rubic's Cube" my eldest daughter drove up from Sydney the night before, so she wouldn't get held up by city traffic etc, it all went well here they all are lined up waiting for the parade to start
(http://i.imgur.com/gojSq9u.jpg)
this year I wanted not to be at the service and after the service, sick n tired of people just climbing in n out like they own them and adults unable to control their children who seem to think that they are toys to be climbed on, so I had made arrangements with a mate who has a few acres and I wanted to park them all in a line and shoot them from one of my 2 drones, here are the images from the paddock shoot but first a trial run with 112-501 prior to the day LOL just to be sure
(http://i.imgur.com/VfTYTC6.jpg)
and the line up
(http://i.imgur.com/OLECfq6.jpg)
and from the ground
(http://i.imgur.com/TXtr8jX.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hr1MtXz.jpg)
Well all that went without a hitch, thanks to my dedicated group of drivers and I can say that I was pleased that it went off without any issues, so it was time to get down n dirty again in the shed, I walked into the area where the loco is on it's stand and walked through a fine spiders web, it doesn't take long for them to reclaim the area.
I had been waiting on a delivery from Chronos model engineering supplies in England, the Imperial sized steel arrived and I set about making the brake rigging for the tender, I have gone as far as I can on the boiler lagging but I'm waiting for a wooden former that my mate Allan is making but he works for himself so it's on the sideline, so not to waste too much time
I have gone into the tender area, what a can of worms LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/LGL0y6y.jpg)
and the bitz
(http://i.imgur.com/FVkOtHt.jpg)
did you notice the 2 small grains of AR2206 powder in the shot LOL, there are so many different brake bits to be made
that I set up my older lathe with a small 4 jaw chuck in the 8" 3 jaw
(http://i.imgur.com/vAEdr7M.jpg)
this was used so I could drill n tap 5BA into the 1/4" square BMS and or turn it down to 0.126" dia to cut 5BA thread on
(http://i.imgur.com/7fGv5sF.jpg)
then use a die to apply the 5BA thread
(http://i.imgur.com/8Mr3dGD.jpg)
It was a time consuming task using 3 different machines, thank goodness I fixed the older lathe as it would have taken me a lot longer, here is a 5C collet chuck with a length of material being slotted by a 1/8" slitting saw, it is being held by the shaft with the 5BA thread on it, I can tell you it was slow n steady wins the race and he did,
(http://i.imgur.com/GDbvfht.jpg)
it can be slow between jobs as things need to be set up using a dial indicator and with my eyesight I need all the help I can get
(http://i.imgur.com/0FR2l20.jpg)
there were many individual parts to be made such as clevis forks, this one and a few others made from 5/16" square bar
(http://i.imgur.com/P77y6Tp.jpg)
but it was only 1/4" on the opposite side
(http://i.imgur.com/9l7LsNg.jpg)
a myriad of bits to make up the brake rigging, I don't know why I'm doing it as it will not stop the loco anyway, but hopefully it will look bloody 1st class, as at the convention I saw some things that I thought were 2nd rate
(http://i.imgur.com/IYys8Vp.jpg)
all up it took me about a week to make all the items, some had to be silver soldered into place but all in all I'm
happy with the end result
(http://i.imgur.com/qoyFvfv.jpg)
I was getting too many small parts that needed to be put together so out with my 'Bromix' gas torch (cheaper than Oxy/acetylene which I do have 2 full cylinders) this is fine for quick small jobs, like fitting the ends of the bake drag beam
(http://i.imgur.com/yawe8X4.jpg)
like this
(http://i.imgur.com/6ems29V.jpg)
and make them look like this
(http://i.imgur.com/TJkOxtH.jpg)
that way instead of having 12 parts I now only had 4 and couldn't misplace the small ends LOL.
I lifted the tender body off it's frame covered in 20+ years of dust etc although it still looks the part
(http://i.imgur.com/F0f607i.jpg)
I like the rows of rivets and still more to be fitted before it will be watertight
(http://i.imgur.com/QZdUFZ5.jpg)
but that's not what I focusing on atm, I need to be able to fix the inner frame to the external frame, I went about making a
rivet squeezer, but after many hours it bent on the first rivet, so I had to devise another way of doing this, I still had many 1/16" dia holes to drill, luckily I had marked them out some 30 years ago LOL and I could still see the tiny center dots
here is a shot of the tender frames
(http://i.imgur.com/CN3gLho.jpg)
and the frames themselves separated n ready for work
(http://i.imgur.com/OHQu22p.jpg)
drilled using a hand drill with a No 1 center drill
(http://i.imgur.com/31T3Vob.jpg)
and the rivets fitted but not peened over as yet
(http://i.imgur.com/5tuefBh.jpg)
the 8 wheel axle set will require setting up in the lathe and cleaning up as they are a tad rusty
(http://i.imgur.com/82gysFQ.jpg)
I have made the first of the 'horn stays' using the steel from the UK
(http://i.imgur.com/hOfgfQp.jpg)
and this is how they fit to the bogie frame
(http://i.imgur.com/tcviC0O.jpg)
but they will have to wait until a few other tasks have been performed.
Two weeks ago the garden railway group held a show in Mayfield it was great to see so many models on the elevated track
some good gear there like this $18,000.00 AD60 Garrat in gauge 1 (45mm)
(http://i.imgur.com/dRQtcCb.jpg)
I particularly liked this set up
(http://i.imgur.com/I4cSuas.jpg)
also on display was a 45mm NSWGR 32class a miniature version of my 5" gauge
(http://i.imgur.com/4odzWmU.jpg)
Monday 8th May I worked my last shift as a Registered Nurse
I retired @ 1400hrs on that day after being in the profession for 50 years, so now I can play all day every day in the shed
how ever I want to manage my time with no restraints, well help the good wife with some things as I'm going to need her assistance to help rivet the tender frames LOL, these images were yesterdays efforts
(http://i.imgur.com/y48qOAn.jpg)
and fitting these 6 x 4BA bolts was no mean feat what a PIA they were
(http://i.imgur.com/hD5IAB1.jpg)
and fitted
(http://i.imgur.com/sCJfS5a.jpg)
anyway that's a brief overview of the last 5 weeks cheers Dennis
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I had made arrangements with a mate who has a few acres and I wanted to park them all in a line and shoot them from one of my 2 drones, here are the images from the paddock shoot but first a trial run with 112-501 prior to the day LOL just to be sure
(http://i.imgur.com/VfTYTC6.jpg)
and the line up
(http://i.imgur.com/OLECfq6.jpg)
Two weeks ago the garden railway group held a show in Mayfield.
I particularly liked this set up
(http://i.imgur.com/I4cSuas.jpg)
They often say scale models "look so lifelike", but your drone shots make the Landies look so Model-like that you could just pick that 88 up and put it on a flatcar behind the Model Series 1!
Great work and another fascinating post. Congrats on your retirement!
-
Well, the old saying "time flies when your having fun" it's true, the daze seem to blur into one another, between working in my shed and a few trips away up North shooting, where has the time gone.
My 5" gauge engine/tender take all my spare time, I took about half of one day to realise that I need to concentrate on the tender chassis, as it has a plethora of small things that need to be done, so on with the thinking cap and come up with a few solutions, one of them was how to attach rivets when I couldn't swing a hammer, well a rough sketch then I drew it up proper
(http://i.imgur.com/8ri9GDJl.jpg)
it took some time to mark it out and make it from scratch, but it works well
(http://i.imgur.com/PzC8ylQl.jpg)
the inner frame rails had to have 2 items made and riveted in place, then the inside rails had to be attached to the outside frames, this is where the tool came into it's own and was well worth the effort to make it.
The rear drawbar needed to be finished off to accommodate the hook which I had to make as well, the hole needed to be made 3/8" square and a
5/16" dia hole in the stretcher behind it to take the draw hook
(http://i.imgur.com/CTOjDUFl.jpg)
then fabricate the hook
(http://i.imgur.com/h7zCneel.jpg)
I used what I had at my disposal and found the material needed, here is the bar being cut using a slitting saw in the jaw
(http://i.imgur.com/Br6QgYhl.jpg)
part of the way through the job
(http://i.imgur.com/RqOfVQUl.jpg)
and I needed 1/2" hex to make a 5/16" UNF nut, I didn't have any, so I cut the hex head off a 5/16" bolt and used that
(http://i.imgur.com/mu4enFcl.jpg)
and the almost finished draw hook just needs to have a spring made, that will happen when I have to make other springs
(http://i.imgur.com/HqB00c0l.jpg)
The chassis had to be relieved at the front draw bar to accommodate the steps up onto the footplate, so it was mounted/clamped on the milling table for this operation, in this image you can see that a small section has to be relieved
(http://i.imgur.com/rNkkG0Pl.jpg)
on the table to be relieved on the edges
(http://i.imgur.com/SycwcoHl.jpg)
I also had to relieve about 3/32" off the angle frames as well to allow the steps to seat correctly
(http://i.imgur.com/RWnZcxyl.jpg)
but all's well that ends well (so to speak LOL) the steps fit like a finger in a glove
(http://i.imgur.com/RlDbP06l.jpg)
I have lots more to upload and I will do so later today, cheers Dennis :)
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Dennis - Congratulations - really enjoy this thread and your workmanship! Well done and congratulations on working for only two bosses now and you are one of them!
Frank
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Thanks for the compliments 303Gunner and StdDiver, but I never loose sight of the fact that I'm just a mug having a go LOL,the 8 wheel tender has several major components, the body which is all brass, the
floorplate also brass, the chassis 3mm plate etc and the bogies/brakes.
The floorplate has a brass angle riveted along it's edge 68 rivets I think @ 3/16" spaces
well you can't buy unequal brass angle, so I had to mill one side off
(http://i.imgur.com/C3GyvNn.jpg)
this has been achieved but has not been riveted to the floorplate as yet, my T/A aka wife
has been busy with other things including baby sitting our youngest G/daughter 3 days a week.
I had already made many items for the brake rigging, now before going any further on the brakes
I needed to make 2 brake bell cranks and the mounts & shaft as seen in the drawing half section AA
(http://i.imgur.com/nd9liV7.jpg)
the shaft was the easy part of the task 5/16" dia bar, ends machined down to 1/4"dia x certain length
the 2 bell cranks took a little more thought (well for me it did) on the how too, anyway it was achieved
without too much fuss, reamed 5/16" and 3/8" then shaped/filed etc
(http://i.imgur.com/B8QEpsN.jpg)
the mounts had to be fabricated from what materials I had at hand, then turn
up some bronze bushes that had to be silver soldered to the steel then reamed @ 1/4" ID
(http://i.imgur.com/U5PQ2qI.jpg)
I had to machine some brass weld off the strengthening plate for the front draw bar, to allow the brake
shaft cranks to fit in that small space
(http://i.imgur.com/HIMN8KK.jpg)
the bell cranks on the shaft with mounts etc
(http://i.imgur.com/D1b6qyd.jpg)
the next issue was making it clear the chassis rail, I had checked all measurements the issue was
on the crank, it was relieved as well as the bracket for the brake column
(http://i.imgur.com/d30B9zT.jpg)
and on the underside, you might notice I had fitted the brass floorplate with all it's screws, which
all had to be shortened from 1" in length to just over 5/16" that was fun not LOL time consuming
it was, I needed to do this just to check nothing was going to foul, fit/unfit etc etc
(http://i.imgur.com/CceLfQR.jpg)
Next item whilst still working on the chassis were these items which had to be fabricated, they hold
the chains off the bogies and I needed to make 4 of them
(http://i.imgur.com/g4ECoGi.jpg)
side view of the plan
(http://i.imgur.com/RIgBXln.jpg)
so I thought about it (how too) I couldn't see me heating and rolling the edges, so I used 3/16" dia bar
with the 1/16" hole which I uprated to 5/64", then using a hack saw put a cut across the broad face,
using a needle file open it up to fit the .8mm steel strip
(http://i.imgur.com/sADkwlv.jpg)
then to this
(http://i.imgur.com/aFItHYR.jpg)
apply flux and solder together, very fiddly job but successfully achieved
(http://i.imgur.com/3js3hbQ.jpg)
next task was to cut the slots, I used a 1/16" slitting saw very carefully
(http://i.imgur.com/1ibYYpH.jpg)
and after some little time I had all four done
(http://i.imgur.com/3aJ654X.jpg)
hopefully if it warms up later in the day I will drill and rivet them to the outside chassis rails,
after twiddling my thumbs for a short period this morning, the warmth factor got it's act together and the mercury climbed to 16c, still damn cold in the shed though, so my motto is "if you don't do it who will" me you goose LOL.
So I set about drilling the 1/16"dia holes in the appropriate places and moved them in pairs to the job,
here is the LHS pair being fitted, the first one is always the most difficult
(http://i.imgur.com/1bNN0Vn.jpg)
and in no time using my rivet squeezer I was fitting it's mate
(http://i.imgur.com/n91TwTe.jpg)
and in under 20 minutes I had all four fitted
(http://i.imgur.com/XcPNFqC.jpg)
now thinking as you have too, as this is worse than doing up a Land Rover as there is no "green bible" to refer too
and you have to be on top of it at all times, there is a sequence of events, another 5 rivets in place
(http://i.imgur.com/QmsPHGd.jpg)
he far end of this strengthening plate has to be braze welded, that will happen after I have finished
with the brass floorplate, in my movements around the shed I keep looking at the bogie sets
(http://i.imgur.com/Tml4Ajs.jpg)
and working out in my head the methods of machining the various bits that make up the bogie units.
The next task on the brass floor plate was to fit the unequal brass angle, which I had milled a few weeks ago
(http://i.imgur.com/pZvTlDJ.jpg)
here it is being held down by 3 engineers clamps using 5/16" square HSS for clamping force
before center dotting and drilling
(http://i.imgur.com/6xYdsDe.jpg)
and with my T/A's assistance I drilled 6 x 1/16" dia holes and broke a bloody drill bit LOL, anyway
it now has 6 brass rivets in place
(http://i.imgur.com/Xg2lKzw.jpg)
tomorrow I will drill the remainder of the holes using the bench drill, then put the pressure on my T/A
to help with the riveting process, then I will be able to concentrate on the bogies, cheers Dennis
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Dennis, that is beautiful work that you do. Well done!!!
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Totally agree with Bearman. You are a genuine graftsman. Cheers Rob
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Dennis thank you for your posting these detailed photos.
I have learnt a lot from this thread.
Cheers Phil
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Thank you chaps for your compliments, but I have always regarded myself as a rank amateur with my hobbies, I strive for the best that I can do, that's all I can do, I did manage to snap an image of the rivets in the floor plate of the tender (as I had forgot to do so in the previous post)
(http://i.imgur.com/8YE7Jqz.jpg)
see where the blind silly old git drilled one off line LOL, and later that day I braze welded the rear stiffening plate, but methinks I should buy a new pair of welding glasses as it looked neat until I chipped off the hard clear flux, anyway it will do the job
(http://i.imgur.com/oIkh0U1.jpg)
Well it's wet cold n miserable here this morning so rather than go down into the freezer aka shed (yesterday it was 5c in there damn cold) I'm adding to my story and I will venture down there after lunch as I have some machining to do on the bogie frames, so here is an overview of some very repetitive work that I have done making small pins for the brake rigging, here is the list off the plan
(http://i.imgur.com/hgGThYT.jpg)
To start with I didn't have any round bar stock @ 1/4" OD, so I decided to use 1/4" steel hex bar rather than wait days for supply from Bathurst, the supplier is 1st class Oz post is slow, here is the first of 2 at this size
(http://i.imgur.com/wyM4MXt.jpg)
I sometimes wish I had a CNC machine and of course the knowledge on how to with it LOL these pins all 34 of them would have been made in under 10 minutes once the machine was set up, if I told you each pin took approx 14 minutes to make you would think I was crazy, but you can only take small cuts 0.020" at a time as the material pushes away from the tool and it has to finish up at 0.125" with the cross drilled hole @ 1/16"
(http://i.imgur.com/jDBrovC.jpg)
it looks off center but it isn't, the hex bar was marked against No 1 jaw in the chuck, so out of the lathe when it's down past the hex, marked for length and the cross drilled hole then drill back in the lathe and continue to turn it down to size, very time consuming, here is the first batch, with the larger pins as well
(http://i.imgur.com/Cf6GAOT.jpg)
the hex was 300mm (12") that's what left, it will be put to use on something else I'm sure.
The next day after my back had 12 hours rest I was back at it again making the longer ones @ 3/4" in length, same deal very repetitive
(http://i.imgur.com/XdFzHky.jpg)
this is where they lay in amongst the swarf until all done
(http://i.imgur.com/os0u8jN.jpg)
I'm fairly fussy about keeping the machine clean n free of metal swarf, so I try to catch it using small trays, yes mad I know LOL
two days later I had finished this was the last of the pins @ 7/16" in length
(http://i.imgur.com/GY1AxaU.jpg)
and here they all are after having the small steel 'tit' removed and heads machined down to 3/32" in length
(http://i.imgur.com/sbIKvA9.jpg)
I have been making myself familiar with items etc on the bogies and I keep looking at the plan when I walk past it
(http://i.imgur.com/k9G8nNK.jpg)
I have made an awful lot of parts for it, but somehow I over looked two levers, one floating n one fixed, so I quickly fixed that shortage
(http://i.imgur.com/tdt58Zs.jpg)
I didn't have any imperial sized steel so I used the closest metric which was 10mm x 3mm, the parts loosely sitting where they hopefully will work LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/a1qyHjQ.jpg)
anyway later this afternoon I will be using my older lathe and the mill to machine the bogie frames, I hope I don't stuff up as replacement cast iron bogies wouldn't be cheap today, cheers Dennis
-
Dennis, there is nothing nicer than a little pile of freshly machined fittings in clean metal. But as some of your pictures show, atmospheric moisture will slowly begin to coat exposed metal with rust. Do you have any methods in mind to preserve bare surfaces until (in time) you finish them with paint or other surface coatings?
I'd would like to see the rods and valve motion as polished oiled steel, but other large items like the frame might like to be phosphated or parkerised before it gets too hard to get into any nooks and crannys with steel wool.
-
Well another couple of days in the freezer, but the sun was shining today but still damn cold in the shed, I had 2 jumpers on, I must be getting old.
Tony I usually bag things to keep moisture out, but the tender frame got a tad dirty/rusty from sitting on the shelf for 23 years or more, but I have a 42CFM compressor and my intention is when the time comes I will grit blast the steel frame and any other components etch prime and paint either flat or satin black, the motion gear on the engine will remain polished.
Yesterday morning I changed the chucks on my older lathe, they are not getting any lighter
(http://i.imgur.com/Lh4iaD8.jpg)
I needed the 8" 4 jaw to accommodate the bogie frames, they needed to be bored out to 3/4" x 3/8" deep, this was an easy task
but not as quick as on the newer lathe as the old one doesn't have quick change tool posts, so setting it @ center height took
a few minutes of trial n error
(http://i.imgur.com/T08OTR1.jpg)
after that job was completed on both bogies, I roughly assembled it and marked them using a texta pen, side view
(http://i.imgur.com/sx8ZMsL.jpg)
and from the top as they
(http://i.imgur.com/2Tj2W0K.jpg)
are front and rear with some of the fittings that have to be still made but fit in different spots on each bogie, they both had to be
milled flat on opposite faces for brake hinges
(http://i.imgur.com/vqqMahI.jpg)
I spent some time yesterday pondering whether to make these links
(http://i.imgur.com/NEGytGZ.jpg)
there are 8 of each size to be made, so I was looking at the possibility of fabricating them, but after making
a couple of the items needed I changed my mind and milled one from bar stock, getting the middle of the bar was
a real trick, as if your not careful you end up adding thousand's of an inch just by the way you apply the scribing tool
(http://i.imgur.com/AeKQd1X.jpg)
then it was divide 5/32" and add that half to half of the width of the bar, do it on both side so you end up with 5/32"
(http://i.imgur.com/Q5xriY7.jpg)
well I was out by a whisker as 5/32" = 0.156250 and I ended up @ 0.158" LOL but I will live with that.
This still needs to be finished off
(http://i.imgur.com/6aJGHGk.jpg)
in the meantime I made a couple of filing buttons from silver steel and hardened them in brine
(http://i.imgur.com/jp6EOW2.jpg)
they seem to be working OK, but if you have drilled the hole a few thousandth's of an inch off center it soon shows
anyway I know I will have a lot of file finishing to do, so to finish off this afternoon, I bagged all the bits for the brake rigging
etc into several clip lock bags so I don't lose any of them, I don't know how many hundreds of hours have gone into that bag
(http://i.imgur.com/2747AxJ.jpg)
anyway cheers Dennis
-
Well, quite a few mornings here @ -3c & lower, during the day on a few daze it was 0c<>3c in the workshop, I must say here though even though I was born in the UK (Staff's 1949) I could not handle the winter there, anyway whinge over, it will soon be summer again LOL.
Pressing on with making small parts and emails sent to Imgur posing the question about 3rd party hosting, I was given the OK to do so, provided I don't break any of their rules, not likely from me, it took me some time to delete all 5,000+ images that I had shared using photostuffit, I have transferred quite a few into Imgur and I will set about changing my previous posts as time permits, but in another forum in Oz I have lost all the images I ever posted in several rebuilds of my Land Rovers, ah well s**t happens.
Since my last write up in here I haven't made a great deal of progress as parts are so small and very fiddly and only getting about 4 hours a day in the Wksp because of the low temp's, but progress has been made nonetheless and there will be images when I get time to replace them.
I made a start on 16 links from the Equaliser bar to the 8 leaf springs which I have yet to make (waiting on materials from Polly engineering in England ? somewhere LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/ygwrJZ6.jpg)
that was the first of the longer types 1 .125" between centers
(http://i.imgur.com/8PAWVY1.jpg)
the others were 0.625" between centers and just as difficult to make LOL, I did make 2 buttons out of Silver steel
I heated them and quenched them in brine, these buttons helped me file the radius correctly, it didn't take long and I had a small production line going, but it was still slow
(http://i.imgur.com/n4LoCuT.jpg)
and after a few daze in the freezer (shed/workshop) I had all 16 made
(http://i.imgur.com/Okbnndu.jpg)
and showing them against the drawing, they are close enough for my liking
(http://i.imgur.com/Mv37bjm.jpg)
Next task was to make the bushes for the Equaliser bar, the plans stated to use Nylon, I didn't have any
so I resorted to turning down a length of Bronze bar to the required OD 0.312" (5/16")
(http://i.imgur.com/HlCyfcZ.jpg)
it's a push fit and will be Loctited in place, the X denotes the inside face of the bar, next step was to open it up to
15/64" then ream it at 0.250 (1/4") ID
(http://i.imgur.com/Arl0Wzp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/PjWPK0p.jpg)
The next task was to make the pivot pins x 4 that the Equaliser bar rests on, they had to be made from Silver Steel
which I had in stock, a few different sizes on the shaft requiring full concentration
(http://i.imgur.com/ZEfwCs3.jpg)
task completed and this is where they sit on the bogie side frame rails
(http://i.imgur.com/8t4Z5lH.jpg)
the next step was to machine all over the Bronze casting that supports the pivot pin and the Equaliser bar, it
had to be machined all over and using a 1/8" end mill I was expecting to snap it off at any time
(http://i.imgur.com/tVkGMBR.jpg)
this task is yet to be completed as the casting was thicker at one end than the other, so a bit of thought
has to go into how I'm going to rectify that.
The pivot pins had to be precise @ 0.250" OD as any slop would/could upset the suspension balance, so 0.250"
it was
(http://i.imgur.com/etGUZLL.jpg)
and how they sit on the bogie frame
(http://i.imgur.com/BJvpRXZ.jpg)
here is an imge that I took back around 1989 or so, it's of a full size tender for a 'P' class locomotive, I think
I'm on the right track
(http://i.imgur.com/hcgVrsv.jpg)
Anyway moving along in the freezer (shed) I started making the spring bracket that supports the links at
either ends of the springs, fiddly well yes you could say that and damn small as well LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/XQExya3.jpg)
5/8" in length or 0.625, that one is half a thousandth of an inch too long but I can live with that LOL
here is the finished pin, I had to make 8 of them, so I did them like a production line all turning operations
were done, before moving onto the next stage of the machining of the pins, until they were like this one
(http://i.imgur.com/5H8Ihwv.jpg)
so many different dimensions and a 5BA thread on the ends.
The next 'small' task was to make the bracket
(http://i.imgur.com/9LxXcQc.jpg)
there are 8 of them, terrific LOL marking out using 0.500" x 0.125" mild steel flat bar (which I bought from
the UK some time back as Imperial steel N/A in Oz)
(http://i.imgur.com/lKZrbwJ.jpg)
very fiddly and time consuming, but I had knocked up one which is a bit short on one end but I'm keeping it
it was 3c in the shed and my brain wasn't functioning properly
(http://i.imgur.com/ss3eF77.jpg)
anyway I had that many tools set for differing measurements, so bewildering at times
(http://i.imgur.com/pA6b3Ex.jpg)
I used a few small jigs that held things in place while drilling holes, here a short piece of 3/16OD bar and a cheap
vise grip hold things steady
(http://i.imgur.com/ZgRGB6m.jpg)
when I made the 1st one I short changed the it on one end, so I got cunning and made a tool to help me with the end radius, I turned down a short lenth of S/steel to the same size as a No 43 drill (0.089")
(http://i.imgur.com/1W1uHaO.jpg)
with that inserted into the hole I was able to scribe around it and make a better job of it
(http://i.imgur.com/P6NbC6a.jpg)
and the general arrangement drawing showing how it all looks
(http://i.imgur.com/yQ4bb5s.jpg)
and my effort at it
(http://i.imgur.com/ULERX0k.jpg)
well that's where I was 1 week ago, cheers Dennis
ps I have moved along but haven't uploaded images as yet,.
-
I had just added a plethora of images n tet and the ******* nbn S**T itself *** I hate this bloody thing at times cheers bloody grumpy dennis
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Dennis - I keep saying it - I love this thread and what you are doing - very inspirational! Please keep up the exceptional work!!!
Frank
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I have been busy in the shed working on my loco & tender, mostly tender chassis/axle assemblies, damn there is some work in the multitude of parts, and it's been sometime since I wrote anything about it I have probably forgotten the sequence of events LOL and I will apologise for that now.
The axles needed to be finished off so it was all ahead with machining the bronze Equaliser brackets
(https://i.imgur.com/2RcmH4El.jpg)
and the four pins that they pivot on
(https://i.imgur.com/028BWmil.jpg)
then mark and drill the casting for 2 x 8BA bolts to secure the to the bogie frame
(https://i.imgur.com/13osQJRl.jpg)
The weather has been very unkind (well it is winter) but still damn cold in the shed
(https://i.imgur.com/USxhNiRl.jpg)
making early starts impossible, some days I didn't get in there until after midday, have I said I dislike winter LOL.
Next task was the rubbing blocks that attach to the sub chassis and rub on the bogie frames when the tender is leaning to one side going around a curve or some such situation, to re-attach the items I had to shorten a few 8BA bolts to a certain length, so I had to make a small jig to accomodate that task
(https://i.imgur.com/OsU8HDgl.jpg)
and where they fit in the overall picture
and where they fit in the overall picture
Another task that (like most of it) waiting was to finish off the axleboxes with some machining to shape and size to accomodate the leaf springs, oil holes n dust covers etc
(https://i.imgur.com/QPxR81Hl.jpg)
and where the leaf spring sits
(https://i.imgur.com/qVpgx8fl.jpg)
Next milling operation was the bronze Horns x 16 crikey that took some time as I had to use a 1/8"dia end mill
and going through the rough casting with sand, well I broke one end mill, so off to Newcastle to get another
that was almost 2 hours out of my afternoon
(https://i.imgur.com/BPkdLJTl.jpg)
I counted myself very lucky that they had 1 (1only) in stock, it took me almost 4 days of about 4 hours per day
to machine the bronze castings all over so as they would fit
(https://i.imgur.com/CBwV9yGl.jpg)
hen the task of clamping them down and drilling through the casting with a 1/16"dia drill, then using 1/16"dia steel
rivets 8 per 2 bronze castings, and yes I ran out of rivets, I had to wait 5 days for them to come by post from less than 150 miles,
(https://i.imgur.com/THBGMf8l.jpg)
My birthday came n went, my daughter from Rockhampton sent this for me, I think it's a fitting tribute
(https://i.imgur.com/UeYYoM0l.jpg)
all the G/kids call me 'grumpy Dinosuar' LOL, well I can handle that, anyway moving along as you have too, as no-one
else is going to do anything for you, whilst waiting for the rivets to arrive I made a start on the 2 buffers at the rear of the tender frame, I had some 40mm bright shaft so I set about machining it down to size n shape
(https://i.imgur.com/GyGiyK7l.jpg)
and in no time at all (well I'm bulls**ting here) this was the first one I finished, it is very close
(https://i.imgur.com/48i2nanl.jpg)
and the next day or so I had made the other along with some of the parts to make it complete,
(https://i.imgur.com/1UKnaQol.jpg)
along with another jig to hold it whilst it had a 4BA thread up it's rear end LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/h0rTOLRl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6sFE1Eml.jpg)
then I needed to set up in my older lathe using the 4 jaw chuck the casting was made to run fairly true
then I set about machining it to size
(https://i.imgur.com/Fl6sM8Tl.jpg)
well that's has bought me up roughly to the end of July, when I get some spare time tomorrow
I will update what I have done during August, cheers & I hope it's not boring, Dennis
ps Here is an image of 'Max' our male Sheltie he visits me many times through the day, I dunno whether he is being friendly wanting attention or making sure I'm working LOL, or is he still working for "Digger" on AULRO trying to work out a way to nick my G/buggy LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/jYifusll.jpg)
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I like machining cast iron as it's easy once down through the skin, but I have to wear a mask as the fine dust plays havoc with my sinus problems, the 2 buffers minus their 4 holes to mount them to the rear drawbar
(https://i.imgur.com/Kh6cfUjl.jpg)
then as usual check the drawing and I haven't got 8BA bolts long enough, so find a suitable size in steel hex
and make 8 of them
(https://i.imgur.com/MRARQf7l.jpg)
small ain't they
(https://i.imgur.com/bJ1yn0Dl.jpg)
next task was to mark out the buffers from the 2 holes either side (rivets had to be removed as I missed this point years ago LOL) then drill through the buffer into the drawbar for the remaining holes, and I didn't break a 1/16"dia drill in the process well I was using a hand drill, here they are all fitted up
(https://i.imgur.com/ClKbJGll.jpg)
The bogies were back in the picture again as I had to make 4 end frames
(https://i.imgur.com/1m376Hhl.jpg)
which support the brake hangers etc, and as usual there is no supply of Imperial sized angle iron here I had to make do with metric sizes, but that required quite a bit of milling, down from this size
(https://i.imgur.com/aCVfTT6l.jpg)
to this size
(https://i.imgur.com/TCfxVaul.jpg)
I'm still working out in my head how to hold the end plates while I silver braze them, no hurry just plod along LOL.
Meanwhile in my head using my neighbours shed n carport as he is away again, so I moved 3 of my Land Rovers onto his property, and set about finding out why my S2A 109 Ambulance will not pull, my very good friend/mechanic told me he thought that the valve timing has to be out, so I thought this an opportune time with nothing in the driveway, to get it out turn it around on the street and reverse it back into the garage, to give me room to work at the front unhindered.
It didn't take too long to strip it down, and working through the radiator panel I soon had it down and with the piston at TDC off the timing marks and a visual sighting of said piston, the timing marks on the cam wheel were 180deg out
(https://i.imgur.com/VXcTG0pl.jpg)
the 'P' is supposed to be up at the top opposite the highest bolt hole, so using my home made puller which I made years ago and for what purpose I can't recall, the cam wheel was removed and put in it's proper place, a new timing chain was fitted, and double checking the valve timing by turning the C/shaft x 2 full revolutions the timing marks came back to where they are supposed to be
(https://i.imgur.com/zmFa8L0l.jpg)
anyway it all went back together and then my mind starts playing tricks on me, ? did you tighten that, is that in the right position, well this sort of B/s**t happens to me all the time I kept going and adjusted the firing order and hit the starter, it roared into life literally, I quickly moved the distributor in an anti clockwise motion and the engine settled into a nice idle, but it will need my mate to fiddle with it to get it right, that is still to happen and my neighbour could be home this coming Wednesday, damn.
Whilst I had the older lathe on the go, and a mask to catch the dust, I thought that I should machine the brake ring for the tender, it was set up initially in the 4 jaw, using a piece of cardboard marked with a center dot, this helped me get it to run fairly true, so the inside diameter was machined to the correct radius 1 41/64" LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/4uF9tcol.jpg)
once that was achieved I swapped chucks for a 3 jaw and machined the outside dimensions, some parts vere machined in back gear (slowly) as it was an intermittent cut and I didn't want it to move at all
(https://i.imgur.com/GRU0lVJl.jpg)
Once that was done it was marked out and drilled No30, I haven't cut the brake ring into eight individual items as yet, as I'm toying with the idea of buying a steel cutting bandsaw, I do have a power hacksaw, but it's too industrial for small fine work, and with the bandsaw I can guide the blade, I hope.
(https://i.imgur.com/hlEYuJ6l.jpg)
I bought this semi universal dividing head about a year ago and I have a few small items that will need it's assistance and as usual you can buy washers of a decent thickness, so I made some using flat bar, they are 10mm & 6mm thick they won't bend under pressure
(https://i.imgur.com/f1mxEIfl.jpg)
6mm washer in place
(https://i.imgur.com/CfWUENOl.jpg)
Back on the bogies it's time to make the springs, I had purchased 10 foot of 3/8" wide x 0.040" thick spring steel annealed along with other Imperial sized materials from Polly & Chronos in the UK and had it sent via airmail as none of the materials I needed were available here. I had made the spring jig some time back but the slot I cut in it was only 0.020" wide, so when the order from Chronos arrived there was a 0.040" thick slitting saw in amongst it, I opened up the gap and we were in business, the jig with the Spring steel and the 1/4"OD bush No30 hole, bush has a flat on base
(https://i.imgur.com/sl3klEIl.jpg)
jig opened up slightly around where the bush meets the steel as it is going to be silver brazed and I needed some clearance for that, all set up n ready to mill the first slot, will it work well at the time I hoped it would, and it did
(https://i.imgur.com/asxyJjEl.jpg)
the first slotted main leaf, only another 7 to go, very nerve racking listening to it crunching/munching it's way through
(https://i.imgur.com/AqQSPS9l.jpg)
That was enough excitement for Saturday arvo, this morning I was up early 0545hrs quick bite of breakfast move my 110 out of the way, get 113-372 out and head off to the Broke Village Fair, WRONG, 113-372 would not start no matter what I did, the battery was very low jump start did nothing, anyway after recharging the battery I did get it to run I took it for a drive but didn't go to the Fair, this was the scene at 0600hrs this morning
(https://i.imgur.com/zVXq66ul.jpg)
Ambulance still in the shed LOL awaiting my mate and the other that disgraced itself, damn that Fair only happens every 12 months, so it was back to milling another slot, and cutting some more spring steel to make another main leaf, I now have 2, so only 6 to go now LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/OOgcQgJl.jpg)
this is how they connect to the links etc
(https://i.imgur.com/t8tHIGfl.jpg)
and just when I thought I had made all the pins I find that I have not made any for the eyes of the 8 main leaves, so I guess that's a job for another day soon, cheers Dennis
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Very warm (and very welcome as well early September) 26c, I made the effort to file the spring eyes where they had been silver soldered so they would fit neatly into the jig, this did take some time, but was welcome relief from house work LOL ( I made an agreement with the wife when I retired I would help out around the house, well you know many hands make light work.
So after filing and checking that they would all fit the jig it was all ahead full
(https://i.imgur.com/kvxd8mTl.jpg)
that was a before, here is the after hours of standing in the one spot, crikey my (nurse's lower back) was giving me some what for, anyway done n dusted
(https://i.imgur.com/sa85VoWl.jpg)
yesterday (Monday 11/9/17) we had an appt at a skin cancer clinic we both came through 100% which is a good result given that I' a Pom and have been sunburnt on many a time in the past anyway fingers XXX'd but we were early for the appt, and there is a shop called 'cash convertors' in there I found a Locomotive marker lamp in perfect condition, it has been stamped NSWGR
(https://i.imgur.com/6oZXGG5l.jpg)
this is the wick assembly.
The weather here at the moment is not what it is usually, yesterday Wednesday it was 34c bushfires everywhere, one started by a young punk who stole a car and torched it 34c with hot westerly winds blowing @ 45/50kph absolute lunacy, well it burnt through a lot of bushland and into the Richmond Vale Railway site and caused well over $1,000,000.00 damage, carriages destroyed a whole string of 12 ton wooden non airhoppers 3 passenger cars and a stack of wooden sleepers as well burnt sleepers along the length n breadth of the rail system that they have, anyway rant over.
It was nice n warm in the shed I must admit a real change from the cold weather, but it's back 15c today LOL, but some progress has been made on the tender springs,
here is the first of the second leaves just another 7 to make LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/pZ3t2Fbl.jpg)
and some time later, all 8 sets now have 3 leaves each,
(https://i.imgur.com/TKarUDLl.jpg)
but to get that far, I had to modify my jig, the pressure of the cutter was pushing the spring steel away, even though I had to tap (using a small ball pein hammer) the spring material into the jig, it still wasn't enough to hold it whilst cutting, so I marked n drilled 2 holes No33 and tapped them 4BA, fitted 2 bolts problem solved
(https://i.imgur.com/UqgDxlSl.jpg)
At some time ago I thought I had made all the eye pins for the springs but I was mistaken the pins I had made are for the brake rigging etc, so I have to make 16 eye pins to suit, cross drilled 1/16" to accept a split pin, here I have made 2, only 14 more to make
(https://i.imgur.com/qKgApOvl.jpg)
The 'keep' drawing specifys folding and brazing
(https://i.imgur.com/2xzx0xYl.jpg)
well I'm going to use 1/2" square section the inside dimensions are perfect @ 3/8" ID, I'm using this scrap piece
to play with atm, the locating lug on the base is a fiddly item it's approx 3.5mm in length and 1/8" dia 6BA thread on the end
(https://i.imgur.com/evYGKCWl.jpg)
I dropped it and thought well you won't find that, but luck was on my side and I did find it LOL, here is the incomplete spring (needs another 9 leaves as yet) but I'm sure you will get the idea
(https://i.imgur.com/VoTE4epl.jpg)
well that was 5.5hours today whiled away in the shed, cheers Dennis
ps I'm now only about 8 daze behind with this yarn LOL ;)
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Moving along as you do, I will endeavour to show what I have achieved, the spring keeps were made using 1/2" square section, the drawings had this complicated folded sections and braze the base in, I thought blow that LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/DxNnjFYl.jpg)
so I set up my 4" 4 jaw chuck in my biggest 3 jaw and set about making these keeps after the holes were drilled and tapped where needed
(https://i.imgur.com/NUayCIml.jpg)
it was slow going as I didn't need anything to go wrong as it sometimes does
(https://i.imgur.com/jJheAprl.jpg)
the insides of the keeps had to be filed as they were a very tight squeeze at 3/8" wide, so using a square file I opened them up a whisker or two, this allowed me to easily get the steel spring through the opening as well as the next 9 leaves, here they all are with the steel leaves in place and as you can see a spring with the eye pins 16 in all needed
(https://i.imgur.com/03jJ77Dl.jpg)
using 1/4" steel hexagon I made the 16 eye pins, cross drilled with a 1/16" hole first then machined to size
(https://i.imgur.com/HjCckaal.jpg)
The remainder of the leaves were made from Tufnol, which I had to treat to make it work, so after much reading n checking I found an article that stated the best method was to tie it in a 5.5" circle or near enough
(https://i.imgur.com/CVcMwMIl.jpg)
and boil it for 20 minutes which I did
(https://i.imgur.com/tL1GkIFl.jpg)
and it looked like this which was near perfect, I fluked it LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/aaU7wC3l.jpg)
I had to make a new jig to help set up the springs, it was just a bit of scrap steel with 2 holes drilled No 30 to accept 1/8" dia pins, anyway after much stuffing about I settled on these lengths for the Tufnol leaves
(https://i.imgur.com/hGMdPY8l.jpg)
and by days end I had 2 completed, but not quite lined up
(https://i.imgur.com/pHKNSLxl.jpg)
and I had to put them in place to see what I had done
(https://i.imgur.com/1MD94pFl.jpg)
I forgot to mention that I had to reheat the spring steel, it had to be heated cherry red then quenched in cooking oil, this did take some time and I did manage to scald my fingers with the cooking oil splattering, then I had to put a small amount of set into them, so I used this block of Lead Bronze
(https://i.imgur.com/zR8wbaSl.jpg)
I used a small hammer and I think I have got it near enough correct, they do deflect etc but I suppose I will not know until the tender is completed and has water inside it, ah well fingers XXX'd.
The next afternoon I had all 8 springs completed
(https://i.imgur.com/nYWnh8Yl.jpg)
and I just had to sit them on a bogie to check it out LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/OFkHIFtl.jpg)
well that's where I'm up to ATM, cheers Dennis :)
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Time gets away fast when your trying to do several jobs at the one time, something has to give way and it was the model engineering that suffered the most, anyway I'm slowly getting back into the swing of things.
I partial assembled the spring rigging on one side of a bogie just to check that all is almost as good as I can get it
(https://i.imgur.com/J6CXtRZl.jpg)
everything is so close to the side frames of the bogie, so no room for error when I summon the courage to drill the hole for the spigot
on the base of the spring keep
(https://i.imgur.com/7SSP8hpl.jpg)
I think I will have to dis-assemble the axles and relieve the axleboxes just a whisker as they seem to tight on the up/down movement within the horncheeks, well it will happen over the next few days or so, I've a funeral to attend tomorrow, cheers Dennis
ps all 8 mil/vehicles + 2 trailers passed the full rego/inspection so I'm right for another year,,. ;)
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Another day spent in the shed doing what I do on most days work on the never ending story of my 'P' class engine/tender, anyway if I don't do it nobody will.
I had to disassemble the bogies and relieve the axle boxes of a whisker or 2 as the axles were binding when the brake end frames went into position, all good now, I took the tender frame/bogies out of the shed and sat them on the frame for a image shoot and some motivation when I feel a bit slack
(https://i.imgur.com/N2GsR5Ll.jpg)
and from the drivers side
(https://i.imgur.com/FDKZpcjl.jpg)
I didn't want to waste time n effort fitting the springs to the rear bogie as they were all due to be stripped down yet again, all 8 springs had to be dismantled as I wanted to squeeze in another steel leaf to each set, each spring has four steel leaves starting at the top followed by 5 Tufnol (laminated plastic material) then the bottom leaf steel, it can be quite challenging getting them all back into place, you need 3 pair of hands 4 eyes
(https://i.imgur.com/8RfwTj4l.jpg)
The spring keeps had to have a locating dowel in the base, this consists of 0.125"dia x 0.125" in length steel dowel, very small n fiddly, I had to resort to using Artery forceps to get them in n out of the 3 jaw chuck
(https://i.imgur.com/HKXfyeql.jpg)
thankfully I didn't drop any, as I would not have even bothered to look for it/them, a small dab of Loctite and press them home using the vice
(https://i.imgur.com/M8jHLlPl.jpg)
it has taken me the best part of 9 hours over 2 days to make the adjustments to the springs, all 8 are complete, here are the 4 for the lead bogie
(https://i.imgur.com/WasLy5Sl.jpg)
the next job now is to fit the brake rigging on both bogies, I will have some time up my sleeve but if I need a T/A to help I'm buggered as she will be in Rockhampton for the next 6 days, ah well, just me n the Poodle Patrol, cheers Dennis
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Another day another set of problems to think through, I have the tender chassis upside down with both bogies fitted so I can get my head around how to with the brake rigging and the fitting of the bogies to the chassis, as everything is tied in together
(https://i.imgur.com/kQXED9ul.jpg)
still quite a few more items to be made regarding the brake rigging where they are fixed to the bogie carriers, I have made heaps of small parts
(https://i.imgur.com/1CkW4j7l.jpg)
anyway I will work my way through it all eventually, it's just that I hate going back over things that I haven't thought out properly, cheers Dennis :)
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Great work Dennis - love the post!\
Frank
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Saturday morning early I purchased a short length of flat bar 32mm x 8mm x 200mm, I had to make 16 of these
(https://i.imgur.com/1AJjTIvl.jpg)
needless to say I haven't got that far into it as yet, the only way I can cut the bar into a length that I can fit into the vice on the mill/drill
was to mark it and cut it with one of angle grinders in this case a Metabo
(https://i.imgur.com/vcKShrgl.jpg)
then set it up after marking it out, using a 0.040 thick slitting saw in the mill
(https://i.imgur.com/4yYrDAFl.jpg)
and after a short period of time I had cut one off, only another 7 to go
(https://i.imgur.com/1Vh7799l.jpg)
the first few were spot on 0.236" aka 6mm
(https://i.imgur.com/zVbPgGCl.jpg)
but very soon there after for some unknown reason they all ended up 0.010" undersize, I don't think it will make any difference
as they are fixed into place with 32 8BA bolts, the brake hangers with the brake shoes hang off them, anyway maybe it's about time I bought a metal cutting band saw, cheers Dennis
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Well it's nearly 2 years since I was prompted by forum users within this site by asking "what's with the Loco" as it was in the background of an image long since gone through fotodropit, anyway I'm still making progress albeit slowly, as most of you would know I have many interests including 10 of Solihulls finest on the road + 1 deceased S2A suffG and I like shooting/hunting wild pigs++, anyway back on topic.
Last month I was cutting strips of steel using one of my many slitting saw blades using the mill, but they were inconsistent in thickness, some were up to 0.010" some others were +/- some differences, this had me puzzled for a while, but I figured it out,the milling vice was pushing the blocks up on the backend thus cutting uphill, so after much umming n arring I bought a new metal cutting bandsaw
(https://i.imgur.com/w4FtMCQl.jpg)
this machine cut the steel to size in under a minute, and no discrepancies on either end, so I cut the 8 pieces I needed to yield the 16 matched blocks
(https://i.imgur.com/1AJjTIvl.jpg)
here are 5 of them with their No43 clearance holes for 8BA bolts
(https://i.imgur.com/axrcu6Ul.jpg)
It took some time today to figure out how to clamp the little blighters in pairs as they had to be cross drilled No30, anyway as usual I managed slowly, all the blocks were numbered 1 through 8 as pairs
(https://i.imgur.com/658aTRel.jpg)
then clamp them together with some difficulty at times
(https://i.imgur.com/AsWFX13l.jpg)
then clamp in one of my many vices drill through using a No30 drill
(https://i.imgur.com/oA8PAELl.jpg)
Next task was to figure out how I could clamp the 4 blocks to the main frame stretchers for part of the brake rigging to lever back n forth, it was duly overcome without too much bother
(https://i.imgur.com/xvCYJ5Gl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wm4ZH1zl.jpg)
Now came the task today Saturday 23/12/17 very warm n sweaty 39.5c tomorrow 43c expected, anyway just like everyting else I thought of a way to clamp the items in situ to transfer (spot) then using a No50 drill (tapping size for 8BA) it appeared to be fine but I thought it coud be better
(https://i.imgur.com/PrAIt50l.jpg)
so I bit the bullet and cut the brake ring that I had machined some time back, there was no turning back now
(https://i.imgur.com/seEByngl.jpg)
this allowed me to center the brake hanger shaft close enough to be good enough
(https://i.imgur.com/envCRJ7l.jpg)
and in around 1 hour or so I had the both ends mounted ready for spotting with the No43 prior to drilling No50
(https://i.imgur.com/DFtYxRJl.jpg)
I took extra care using the 8BA taper tap, as they are prone to snap off if you get 'ham fisted' so it was gently gently and I managed to do all 16 holes without breaking a drill or any taps
(https://i.imgur.com/Bt7n5u8l.jpg)
at around 1600hrs I had completed both ends on the lead bogie, I was ready for a cold 'Toohey's New beer'
(https://i.imgur.com/aTn8saFl.jpg)
it is still to be fitted with another bar on the rigging plate, and some of the clamps etc have the incorrect length of cross pins in them and of course they don't have too many split pins in them as it all has to be dismantled to paint, damn it, anyway wish me luck tomorrow with the temp that high I just might consume too much beer and stuff something up, anyway cheers Dennis
ps Last Sunday I wanted to start 112-501 S2A 88"GS she would start, would only run with fuel tipped down her throat then cut out, it was 38c and I was working out in the direct sunlight, the fuel pump was removed and a faulty diaphgram was the issue, so I had lunch and left all the tools on the wingtops that are painted Olive Drab, I reckon the tools could have cooked an egg, man were they hot, anyway I kicked them into the shaded concrete area and got some others out, the issue was fixed but I was too stuffed to be bothered getting my Series 1 55 86" out for a run, I took it for a run 2 days later, anyway the fun of owning way too many Land Rovers,,.
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Fantastic progress here mate, you must be well pleased.
I’m wondering what do you use as a metal preservative to combat surface rust during the build? Thanks for sharing.
Merry Christmas
Phil
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G'day Phil, mate the rust you can see was caused by 20+ years of neglect :-[ at present I'm not putting anything on any parts as it will have to be dismantled some parts grit blasted and etch primed/painted flat black, but is still some time away yet, cheers Dennis
ps Merry Christmas to you n yours as well,,.
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And the fun of owning too many Land Rovers continues, as I have had a few issues that have been sorted out, last weekend it was this one's turn
(https://i.imgur.com/JyjGT0tl.jpg)
I'm getting it ready for a 1,600k round trip in March to Corowa as this year it's the "Year of the Land Rover" first time ever, so we are going to try n topple the jeep boys with numbers, anyway the springs on it are H/duty to compensate for the weight of the 106MM Recoilless Rifle + ammo which I don't have, so I stripped the springs down cleaned them off using
a cup wire brush and flap sander, very dirty job to say the least in 40c+ heat
(https://i.imgur.com/RK9jLEyl.jpg)
and as usual 2 new center bolts had to be made
(https://i.imgur.com/mbkfRhml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kst4quLl.jpg)
in total it took me about 9 hours over 2 days to finish the job, I greased the springs before re-assembly.
Today it was my 110 (Oct 1984 model)
(https://i.imgur.com/dAbmXOOl.jpg)
it was making a rubbing noise when the foot brake applied from the left rear, I think I will have to strip it down in a few weeks time and have the wheel cylinders sleeved in stainless steel, I did take it down and cleaned the area with brake cleaner and re-assembled it for the time being.
I have managed to get some time in the shed, despite the searing heat that we have had over the past few weeks, I had assembled (just to check) components on the tender and from what I can see it is all OK
(https://i.imgur.com/lnGTJlel.jpg)
and with the body in place
(https://i.imgur.com/9tbpzJll.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zcinRRkl.jpg)
at this stage I stopped working on the frame etc as I had run out of small split pins
(https://i.imgur.com/khoknA5l.jpg)
so I looked in the net and ordered 50 from Polly engineering but even those are a tad too big although smaller in eye size than the brassy types in the previous image, I'm still looking for the very small eyed types, not having much luck atm.
So not to stagnate there were a few other items that had to be made for the tender and it required the steel to be machined on a taper, I also knew that I had not made the 4 hand/grab rails for the loco either so I set about making all 8 of them while I had the machine set up, here is the first batch of 4 for the tender, quite a few turning operations just to get the 4 of them ready for the next phase
(https://i.imgur.com/HxrJDjwl.jpg)
taper turning to 1/2 a degree (or as near as my eyesight would allow me to get)
(https://i.imgur.com/xw9W3zWl.jpg)
a lot of fun and concentration, one false move and the game is over, I had to keep reminding myself to reset the compound slide and not to use the carriage other than to reposition the compound slide, anyway all went well no
stuff up's
(https://i.imgur.com/kqUSfKpl.jpg)
next phase was the hand/grab rails for the locomotive, they were similar but different in lengths etc
(https://i.imgur.com/AygjeOll.jpg)
and between moving from one end of the workshop where the loco/tender are
(https://i.imgur.com/LXqAOSMl.jpg)
and back to where the plans and lathes are, just as well I have a concrete floor LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/fllrHX4l.jpg)
if I walked back n forth once I did it a hundred times in an hour just making sure
(https://i.imgur.com/CEEII6vl.jpg)
I didn't stuff anything up which is good all went well, this is how n where they fit on the loco itself, I will still have to mark n drill the holes for them to be mounted on the running boards and cab sides
(https://i.imgur.com/vFdgEWFl.jpg)
anyway that's a quick overview of the past 4 weeks or so, cheers Dennis
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You continue to amaze me Dennis,
Looking forward to seeing you and your GB at Corowa.
Cheers,
Mick
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Thanks Mick, I sometimes wonder myself LOL cheers Dennis ;)
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It has been a while since I last posted, I have travelled some miles in my Series 2A 88" gunbuggy where we travelled on the roads less used, I had great company, there were 7 Land Rovers and 3 jeeps in our convoy I did 2,100k's (1,300miles) in my 2A luckily it didn't rain, actually cold at night but warm n sunny through the day, here is an image of the 3 Series 2A gun-buggies that were in the convoy
(https://i.imgur.com/koQ4zazl.jpg)
at the event in Corowa 39th GPA swim in there were 6 gunbuggies in total, it will be a long time before there are 6 together again, I was away from home for 10 days, and only home for a bit over a week when we headed to Cooma for the 70th Land Rover event this time I didn't rough it we stayed in a motel and I drove our 1984 110 Isuzu County, I believe that there were 1500 registrants for the event,
(https://i.imgur.com/dqxxM70l.jpg)
In no time at all it was looming up for Anzac day 25th April and that takes some getting ready for only to have a lot prep work ruined because of the rain
(https://i.imgur.com/Bihlzipl.jpg)
and to add to the sadness my mate John shown driving the lead vehicle last year, passed away just before this event
(https://i.imgur.com/ZzmqKizl.jpg)
and then there was the issue with the right rear axle on my 1955 Series 1 86", it had developed a leak which with the semi-floating axle means a bit extra work, so I had said after Corowa/Cooma & Anzac day it would be rectified so out with the gear to do the job, jack/stand spanners/brake hose clamp etc
(https://i.imgur.com/UJEsC2il.jpg)
all stripped in no time and axle removed, my little tool 1/2" hex brass internal thread 3/8"UNF 3/16" S/steel ball to stop flow/loss of brake fluid
(https://i.imgur.com/QoiCSdOl.jpg)
the offending bit which will need a bigger press than mine
(https://i.imgur.com/YrvHnUil.jpg)
and the new bits needed, I have the choice of using leather or neoprene
(https://i.imgur.com/JPutqt6l.jpg)
it is now with Rumbel's garage in Dungog.
Now back to today as it did rain on Anzac day and all Land Rovers got a good soaking which I wasn't happy about so over the past few days when time permitted (my T/A's (aka wife) birthday) so I had to do the right thing anyway I managed to get 2 out last Thursday 3/5/18 as the weather was perfect, so these 2 got a run out the bottom of Mt Bright
(https://i.imgur.com/YS5Aeg8l.jpg)
and this Series 2 C/R
(https://i.imgur.com/btadXUtl.jpg)
today Saturday 5/5/18, I managed to get 6 of 8 out for a run, the S2A 109 workshop truck got a long run to get the wind into the creases in the canvas, and some heat into it as well hopefully it is dry now
(https://i.imgur.com/kPk7EHHl.jpg)
a few people stopped and asked about the vehicles whilst they were parked out on the street, some people have no idea about them at all
(https://i.imgur.com/hpg9Re6l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gF4Pm7dl.jpg)
anyway all parked up again under cover n tarpaulins, one vehicle does need a new battery, I will wait until the auto shops have specials on.
In the workshop I have been pushing ahead slowly, I have been working on the tender body, I had to figure out how to assemble it but keeping in mind that I wanted to soft solder the body when I was ready too, so I decided to use quite a few 10BA round head screws which to the untrained eye are just ever so slightly different in shape to the solid brass rivets that are all over the body
(https://i.imgur.com/PjtyXnAl.jpg)
lots of them anyway I had bought prior to heading off the Corowa a quantity of 10BA screws and 10BA taps, they have certainly had a work out and so far so good I haven't broke one
(https://i.imgur.com/3li9cQwl.jpg)
the steel screws were removed and new brass ones in, but it was only temporary as I had to drill using a No55 drill (tapping size for 10BA) so a side had to be removed
(https://i.imgur.com/AIrQwWWl.jpg)
all holes drilled No 55 then refit the side transfer holes using drill press, all those dots had to be drilled
(https://i.imgur.com/HoBeBnbl.jpg)
it sure takes some time to line everything up square etc and clamp it using engineers clamps
(https://i.imgur.com/BLRiUIol.jpg)
and after hours of work
but that wasn't the end as I still had the other side to do, which has been completed now, and then redrill the outside plates using a No 51 drill, clearance size for 10BA, next task was
the front of the tender, the drawing shows 2 doors which were on the full sized locomotive but I deemed them impractical so I decided not to go that way, but I had a more pressing issue, the coal floor had to be screwed
using 7BA brass Csk screws, but with the depth of the side wall of the tender my tap/wrench was way too short
so was the drill, so I had to make some tools like extra length drills you can buy some sizes in long shank drills
but not in the sizes I needed 5/64" tapping size for 7BA
(https://i.imgur.com/1TKTACBl.jpg)
and about a minute or two later I had my long shank 5/64" drill, a little heat & silver solder
(https://i.imgur.com/AdwUALPl.jpg)
next issue was the tapping wrench n tap were too short
(https://i.imgur.com/JDvGTqql.jpg)
so out with a short bit of silver steel to make a holder with a grub screw
(https://i.imgur.com/XniatEBl.jpg)
and in no time at all problem solved
(https://i.imgur.com/n3Ga9q5l.jpg)
it is still to be used and I will have to remember to be very gentle with it.
I now needed to fit the tender body back onto the frame just to check a few things,
(https://i.imgur.com/F1qLXZkl.jpg)
and I found a mistake
the hand pump outlet appeared as though it was going to be an issue, so I made a nipple to check
(https://i.imgur.com/j8c3qvel.jpg)
I love turning brass LOL the finished nipple/union with my drawing that I knocked up
(https://i.imgur.com/DAk1vA2l.jpg)
and it did foul the inside frame of the rear section of the tender by approx 1/8" damn it, now I had to make
a modification to the floor of the water tank section of the tender
(https://i.imgur.com/jmo3hPJl.jpg)
so a plan was hatched to fix the situation which meant fitting the frame on the upturned body
(https://i.imgur.com/h4nOwQXl.jpg)
area marked out and where the nipple/union should be etc, the old fitting un-sweated from the floor
(https://i.imgur.com/Mc4MTfZl.jpg)
suitable thickness plate cut to size and marked out and drilled for 12 x 1/16" dia brass rivets
(https://i.imgur.com/8uG8mf4l.jpg)
then transfer the holes very carefully, and with my T/A assisting set the rivets after making a small
setting tool
(https://i.imgur.com/XLlpOyBl.jpg)
then another refit everything and mark the position of the hole for the nipple/union and soft solder it all
(https://i.imgur.com/fN0KyyUl.jpg)
and the underside
(https://i.imgur.com/PQVy9Ptl.jpg)
and that's about where I am at this point, I have cut the front of the tender body as I'm not having doors
on it, after some lawn work tomorrow I might get an opportunity to do a bit more anyway cheers Dennis
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Great to read more of he thread Dennis - Great work as always. We had a wet Anzac Day in Portland but it dried out for the 11am parade. My mate, veteran Ernie passed away during the year as well, as well as Ron so two less for this years parade - Lest we forget -
Keep up the great work mate, truly inspiring -
Frank
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WHAT!! the Workshop Land Rover got wet?
Also are you painting the train O/D or DBG? Lol
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Yes Scott, it got wet, if it wasn't for the status of the day it would not have been out at all, cheers dennis ps nice n dry now though
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Nice work Dennis!
Looking at your difficulty with clamping pairs for drilling; I usually weld them together in a convenient place with tacks and then cut or grind through the tacks, after drilling or shaping,
Cheers Charlie
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It has been some time since I updated this thread, in short I have made progress but at times 1 step forward 3 backwards LOL, anyway I can report that the tender is 99.9995% complete, it has been soft soldered on all joints etc, it just needs to have to coal floor plate sealed with a silicone type sealer, but not until I'm 100% ready to throw a match into the firebox.
There are still a plethora of small tasks to be attended, I have made many a valve to use in the steam circuits, I have no doubt that I will either reject them or redesign them to suit, just at present I have been working on the cab, it now free stands as of this afternoon (Saturday 16th May 2020)the cab width at the front 'spectacle plate is a 1/64" too wide, my thoughts are bugger it, that's how it will be LOL, anyway between working on this and my 110FFR (electrical issue with alternator) my County 110 leaking hub oil seal, and a very quite Anzac Day, I have no clues as to where time goes, cheers dennis
The loco/tender about 2 weeks ago
(https://i.imgur.com/nrpAa1Ol.jpg)
from another angle
(https://i.imgur.com/fqQWVGwl.jpg)
the spectacle plate
(https://i.imgur.com/yXtw20kl.jpg)
plus 1/64" too wide (0.0156")
(https://i.imgur.com/HeXabaQl.jpg)
the free standing cab
(https://i.imgur.com/3MO91dyl.jpg)
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Jump forward a year, lots of plumbing and small items made and fitted etc, I was ready to fire it just a couple of days ago, anyway here are a few images of the process, I had to add a spill return from the axle driven water pump, via a bypass valve return to the tender, the tender is upside
down and bogies removed allowing access to the floor plate
(https://i.imgur.com/TychYxll.jpg)
the return pipe lower section before it coupled to the bypass valve
(https://i.imgur.com/kuXKd8yl.jpg)
many a silver soldered joint in this project and some ingenuity needed to work out how to get n keep things in perpestive whilst being brazed
(https://i.imgur.com/8UErWzol.jpg)
Whilst the boiler was off the frame I was able to refit the main steam pick up pipe which is connected to the regulator just below it, I made 2 gaskets
one either side of the slush plate, then refitted the steam dome, complete with it's safety valve set at 95psi using my home made tool
(https://i.imgur.com/XY0fBtYl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hXzRNcbl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/r4c8KKVl.jpg)
Many a job required the engine to be laid over on it's side, just to make things a bit easier for a blind old sod like me, working out the curves/radius
on some of the pipe work was very taxing as it had to line up with the fittings, no kinks in any of the tubes thankfully, shown here are the pipes that connect water and steam to the injector
(https://i.imgur.com/nfv7d7Nl.jpg)
Everything on the backhead was made by me with exception of the 'Everlast' blowdown valve at the bottom of the boiler, the pipe work and bends nearly drove me around the bend LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/8YpV3QUl.jpg)
I wanted to have the main blowdown valve where it could be accessed quickly if needed, so I made my own and mounted it remotely on the rhs valance plate, it has it's own square headed key which I filed square by hand
(https://i.imgur.com/pdZdwY3l.jpg)
A long time ago I had made the firebox grate using brass and mild steel, but after talking with more people it soon became obvious to me that I should have made it from stainless steel, so I ordered a few lengths form the UK and set about making it
(https://i.imgur.com/fqkV0r0l.jpg)
having made that and all the other items, I thought about what I would need soon to move the loco n tender from the bench (which is where my Workshop trailer stood in the shed taking up room for 14 years) we made a wooden bench 1.7m long and 900mm tall, so I had to buy a lifter trolley that would go to 900mm it cost $600 from H & F in Sydney, then I needed to make a 5" rail and mount it securely on the trolley table
(https://i.imgur.com/slI2vefl.jpg)
it just fits, I have to swing the 'dog bone' connector to one side to clear the handles.
Anyway after thinking about lighting it up for the first time, I put myself into 'think before you act' mode, the screw reverser had to be mid way between full forward and reverse, then a screwdriver placed through the wheels to stop it from rolling, a ratchet strap over the top so it didn't topple sideways and a heap of other things,
The day finally came along when I had covered all bases, fingers crossed and I can tell you I was like the proverbial cat trying to pass razor blades, I had cut n split some hardwood sticks and soaked them in kerosene, I also have a 20kg bag of 'Char' which is no longer available and hasn't been for well over 15 years, so the engine was placed on a stand that it sat on for almost 20+ years in the shed, and the tender sat on the new lifter trolley. they were coupled up, tender filled with water (almost 10lts) boiler primed to half the sight glass
(https://i.imgur.com/nVp0n6Ml.jpg)
sticks placed into the firebox and lit, it took some time before I started noticing anything other than smoke coming from the chimney, I was using my home made blower which was creating a draft up the chimney and pulling air over the fire
(https://i.imgur.com/lM69DUBl.jpg)
all was going well apart from a few minor water leaks
(https://i.imgur.com/eAjLHg6l.jpg)
when I noticed that the blowdown valve on the rhs sight glass was dribbling water, so I went to nip it up using a 3/8"AF open ended spanner, as I applied force to the gland nut, it allowed the valve body to turn ever so slightly (even though the body had a locknut up against the boiler backhead)
thus shattering the sight glass, bloody hell, steam and hot water spraying everywhere
(https://i.imgur.com/NwlFQpml.jpg)
**it was trumps for about 30 seconds, I hadn't forseen this type of emergency, but I had a plastic water squirt bottle so I opened the firebox door and
squirted the fire with water with the required result.
That was a 'newby' mistake, since then I have been told never try to adjust anything whilst under pressure, remember the issue and deal with it when the engine is cool, anyway I have ordered some more sight glass, I just have to wait on the snail mail from Bathurst, cheers Dennis
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Well done Dennis! What an achievement to have got this far.
Did you pressure-test the boiler with water before firing it? Don't want a nasty steam explosion,
Cheers Charlie
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Simply amazing Dennis,
You never fail to amaze me. Great work that will last forever.
Good on ya mate.
Cheers,
Mick
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Brilliant work and great commentary too Dennis - a real work of art in every way - cheers Frank
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Thank you gents for the compliments, it has been a long time coming I'm still on a learning curve with some things, Charlie the boiler was first certified back in 1988, I got the Bi-Centennial number 88 88ND, it was tested to 200psi for 20 minutes, and also way back then the loco was running on compressed air, so if it ran on comp/air with no expansion qualities it should run on steam.
The boiler had to have a test to get back into the club, but seeing that it had a minor modification it was tested again with no issues, no leaks, I now have to make a rack system to mount in the back of my 110 County to transport the engine/tender, once done I can take it to the track for it's 'accumulation test', hopefully I will have any minor water leaks etc nipped before hand, cheers Dennis
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Very impressive Dennis,
As always, great to see your skilled work.
Terrific to see this up and running, a very long time coming but absolutely worth the wait.
Looking forward to seeing it run on some rails.
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Top work Dennis, and I think you might have passed the exam on " patience " somewhere along the way!
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Glad I came back to your shed to have a look, its been a while. You must be stoked! Think we would all love some links to a video of the sound of it.
Must be getting a logistical effort to move it around.
Congratulations its a testament to both your skillset and commitment to see this through.
Phil
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I will be as nervous as the 'proverbial cat' passing razor blades on it's first run at the track, rest assured I will have someone there to record the first admission of steam into the cylinders and moving off the start point, I'm going to run it on the elevated track mainly because of my lower back, the elevated track offers some relief in the way you sit behind the loco/tender, cheers dennis
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Yesterday 3/11/21, what a day for me, I was like a cat on a hot tin roof, I took my loco down to the track for it's first steam up under supervision, I had attended 3 days before (Sunday) just to check that the traverser transition rail would meet n fit my rails in the back of the Land Rover, well it did and it didn't, so after arriving home I made a few adjustments to my rails, and that all worked well yesterday, here is 3235 before the task started
(https://i.imgur.com/5yxTwNsl.jpg)
the first task was to prove the 'pressure gauge' so it had to be removed and tested, thankfully it was spot on (made in England) LOL, then refit it and start a fire, I had that many helpers/onlookers etc, all helpful but one thing I found was next time I shall park up at the end of the road, so it's not so far to walk when wanting to do something on the opposite side of the loco.
It took approx. 10 minutes for the fire to get the water warming up, as I had overfilled the boiler, so to help out a drain points were opened and the situation was under control, it wasn't long after that the 3 safety valves were lifting and were being checked by 2 boiler inspectors, all 3 safety valves needed minor adjustment, I had previously set them on my home made tool using air pressure, but heat n steam is a different thing, anyway all good.
The next task was with the blower going flat out, fire very hot, the steam accumulation test was underway, to see how long it takes from the top fitting on the sight glasses to the lower nut and will the safety valves keep the boiler within it's limitations and not exceed the mark, well that went well thankfully, the only issue I had was the pressure hose ( well was supposed to be)on the hand pump connector to the loco, under steam pressure @ 95psi approx., the hose blew out, as pressure from the pump couldn't lift the clack valve on the boiler, the weak point was the hose, it went 'bang' like a .22 rifle shot, scared the living daylights out of me LOL, anyway I had the offer of the use of a riding truck but given that the manual pump now wasn't connected, even though I had the injector and an axle driven water pump, I declined the offer, instead I just moved it up n down over about 45 feet, that was enough excitement for one day, cheers dennis
link to clips of moving under steam for the first time, it certainly wanted to get going
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMwFwxzKry8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlhoAQ1ULao
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Congratulations cobber!
Love the miniature choof-choof sound,
Cheers Charlie
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Well done young fella! What an inspiration! What's next? Lunar Land Rover? All the best mate Frank