Land Rover Series 1 rivets

[Harry S]

Hi All,
First time poster...
I'm currently restoring my 1956 series I and am looking to buy the rivets needed to put the car back together, I want to use the original ones and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with doing this?
Looking online at rivets to purchase there are 6 options:
Solid round head rivets
Solid flat head
solid counter sunk
semi tubular
PoP (assuming these weren't used on originals)
Bifurcated

If anyone knows the difference between when and where these where used in the original build it would be greatly appreciated as i would like to keep it as original as possible!
Any general advice/experience anyone has would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers

[Chazza]

Not sure about anything Harry, but on my 80" there are some pop rivets on the rear body and they appear to have been there since it was made.

Solid rivets need a rivet-set, which is the name of the tool which knocks the panels to be riveted down and it also has a female dome to support the head. The rivet stem is thickened by upsetting it, which means hammering on the stem to thicken it, while supporting the head.

I bought a pneumatic riveting tool to do the upsetting, where I can't swing a hammer,

Cheers Charlie

[mike_k]

G’day Harry,

I’m not a Series 1 expert at all, but the 2s and 2As had mainly Solid domed rivets and some pop rivets (where it was impossible to set the solid rivets due to bodywork access) for all of the body panels. Some countersunk solid rivets for the tub floor as well. The semi tubular rivets were only used to attach the rubber door / tailgate seals.

There is a seller on eBay from the UK who can supply all of these, a bit hard to tell how long they will take to arrive currently!

Cheers,

Mike.