Author Topic: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck  (Read 52623 times)

Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #315 on: February 24, 2019, 11:17:08 AM »
Hi all.
So far this season, I don't seem to have gotten anything useful done.
I'm still working on getting the generator going so I can tack weld the chassis rail layers together,.
Today I had a go using a wet sanding attachment on the Karcher to clean the loose paint and rust out of the inside face of the chassis rails so I can give it all a coat of epoxy paint.
The wet blasting attachment replaces the regular spear on a Karcher water blaster. It has a hose with a spear that you stick in your bucket of dry sand.
I have to say, it may be ok for doing small items a few inches in size, but its near useless for what I want it to do.
After about 20 minutes, I had cleaned a patch about 6" high by a foot long, and used a whole 10L bucket of sand, which I then had to clean off everything with the regular attachment.
From what I can see, the nozzle allows too much water through, reducing the pressure of the flow and velocity of the sand going to the job.
My pressure washer is on the list of models that they recommend for this attachment, so I guess its just not meant to do what I want to do with it.
I think I will just have to go back to using the grinder with the wire cup brushes and flat wire wheel attachment and then use the wet blaster on the little corners that I can't easily get into.
It's all a wet sandy bog out there now, so I will leave it to dry out and start on the wire-wheeling or maybe the welding if I can get the welder, next weekend.

Greg.

Offline STDDIVER

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #316 on: February 25, 2019, 12:49:51 PM »
Hi Greg- As I read your post I agree it is disappointing that some products create ideas that they are better than they are.  I have hired a commercial sand pot and compressor for a weekend and sometimes you can get these at very competitive rates.   ;)   With a good blasting plant, including mask and breathing system you can achieve a lot in a day or two - I did my F1 and two land rover chassis and a lot of parts in a day.  I set the job up on hard concrete base and put a wire frame with shade cloth behind the truck and parts to restrict the spread of garnet and used an industrial vacuum cleaner to collect the used garnet, filtered it through more shade cloth to keep out the chipped paint pieces and used it over again and again.  Being lazy I had an old wheelie chair which I use to sit on to do those areas you have to bend over to reach and a garage creeper to get to the underneath areas.  With the wheels and boxes removed most places were reasonably accessible.   The grit gets everywhere believe me!  I was getting fine grit out of my hair the next day after two showers.  A good quality airless spray gun means that you blast, blow, spray as you go and the finish is impressive.  I am sure you are across all of this though.  With any project keeping the high standards is always very hard but your vehicle is exceptional and from where it is now from where you started is a testimony to your patience, smarts and hard work.

Keep up the good work!
Frank

Offline 4x4-581

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #317 on: March 17, 2019, 12:12:51 PM »
How do you post your pictures?

Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #318 on: March 17, 2019, 02:53:52 PM »
I host all my pics on a Smugmug account and then paste in a link here. If you resize your pics, you should be able to upload them in your post without needing a host.


Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #319 on: March 17, 2019, 03:13:46 PM »
Well, I have been doing a bit each weekend lately.
I have the insides of the driver's side chassis rail cleaned back with a wire wheel and cup brush, and I have painted the inside, top and outside with Surface Tolerant Epoxy.
Just need to clean and paint the section from where the double chassis ends and the back of the truck. And the underside of the chassis rail.
I replaced the 12 bolts that hold the rear axle assembly to the chassis on the driver's side. That took a bit. They were really stuck in the chassis.
They are in 3 groups of 4, so I would remove one group, clean the area and also the hole through the chassis, paint it, fit new bolts and then paint them also.
I replaced the old bolts with high tensile ones and used spring washers as well as lock-nuts, just to be sure.



As you can see, they seem to have either replaced a few with whatever they had on hand, or never had the correct bolts in the first place. You can see the wear on the 2 UNC bolts at the front.
There are 2 crossmembers at the back, under the plate that the winch fairlead is bolted to. These crossmembers are shaped like a really heavy duty section of C channel and the bottom was filled to the top with dirt.
There was pretty heavy rust spalling under the dirt, which I scraped out, but I still need to wire wheel it and give it a hit with rust converter before giving it a good coat of epoxy. It's just a bad design, as there is nowhere for the dust and dirt to go, other than into the channel.
With that cleaned out, I can paint it all and work back up the passenger side chassis rails. I'm looking forward to finishing this part, but then I have to give the epoxy a light sand so the primer will stick, prime it all and then give it a coat of olive drab.
With that all done, I can see about getting a hand to clamp and tack weld the chassis rail lips together, paint them and then I can drop the transfer case and winch back in. Easy. :)

Greg.

Offline Ravvin

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Re: 180-971 F1 Crane Truck
« Reply #320 on: April 22, 2019, 03:08:40 PM »
Well, I got more done, with the long weekend and decent weather.
The 2 crossmembers at the back, under the plate for the winch rollers, was heavily rusted where the dirt built up.



You can see some of the heavy rust spalling and pits where I cleaned some out. I couldn't get the wire wheel or cup brush in there, so I tried heating it with the Oxy/LPG torch.
The chunks of rust changed to a sort of powdery stuff and turned to dust when I used a wire brush on it. After a couple of goes doing this, nothing more was coming off and it looked like good solid metal.



I gave everything a coat with rust converter, just in case I missed any with the Oxy, but nothing showed up.
I neutralised the rust converter and gave everything a coat of black epoxy.



The remaining old bolts through the chassis rails were removed, the holes cleaned out and painted, then new bolts fitted, tightened up and painted.



I also dropped off the massive towbar they had fitted to it and also took off the plates with the trailer air connections and the rear bumpers. I'll give these a good sandblasting and painting before they go back on.
Once the epoxy has had a decent time to cure, I'll sand it and paint it all olive drab, before refitting the plate that holds the winch pulleys and fairlead rollers. There's lots of smaller parts like this that I can clean up and repaint over the winter, as they can cure in the front sun-room, as it is pretty warm right through winter.

Greg.