DetV's Shed

[DetV]

Today's task is to wire up a couple of spotties and a light bar. Starting with a thumb sketch for the circuit which I will use.
The plan is to mount the relays against the port fender and run the 12v feed all the way into the battery compartment where I will mount a fuse block, and run the 24v feed along the conduit for the 24v geni and back to the 24v distribution box. Lead to the switches will go trough the firewall on the port side and I'll remove the passenger grab handle to access the back of the console.

Now for a quick trip to Jaycar for a couple of toggle switches, another relay and some 4mm cable.
 

[DetV]

Yesterday I installed a 175 Amp Anderson connector on the front of the battery box. This is to avoid the need to open the battery box to use jumper leads. New leads on order and a couple of spare Anderson connectors ready to apply to them.

The primary purpose was to install a fuse holder and cable for my driving lights, so of course that went in as well. Not sure what the other four circuits will be used for as yet.

[DetV]

Last week I saw an advertisement for an 85Watt light bar, two 100Watt HID spotties and four 32Watt work lights for under $200 delivered - how could I resist??

Today I completed the driving lights installation. To keep the circuitry simple I decided to run both the light bar and spotties from the 12v system, but with still with independent control on each, so I attacked Jaycar yesterday and brought home a couple of 30Amp relays, a couple of toggle switches, 3 metres of 5.5 sq  mm cable and a fuse block.

I mounted the driving light control switches on the drivers side of the FFR Ammeter/hour-meter console - nice easy reach - and used the -ve pole of the aux power socket as the earth return.  (On the other side of this console will go a USB power supply - but that's another story.

On testing I found two problems:
1. Only the port side spottie fired up. I had inserted the connector on the light back-to-front so reversing the polarity - FIXED; and
2. The light bar relay would not activate. A close look at the photo of the relays below will show that the blue wire had come out of the space connector on the right relay - FIXED.

All lights working as they should be. Now I just have to check the alignment.

[DetV]

Finished the USB charger installation in the FFR Ammeter/Hour meter console this morning.  Unfortunately I failed to check the location of the back of the hour meter and drilled my hole where the USB charger interfered with the hour meter. So drilled a now hole a little further back and plugged my mistake with a rubber grommet.

For power I used a tap off the inspection light socket, however, my USB chargers have LEDs so I would prefer a circuit which is ignition switched - when I find a suitable feed I'll move it, but for now:

[DetV]

The parcel delivery guy was good to me today. He delivered new jumper leads, a pair of red 175A Anderson connectors and a surface mount cigarette lighter connector.  I mounted a Merit plug in the surface mount adapter and connected it to the 24v cable I had previously run down the port side channel. Now I have a power outlet for my fridge at the back corner of the vehicle, and a set of jumper leads split with Andersons.

[DetV]

My new 24v->12v 40Amp inverter arrived late last week, so it was time to add it to the back of the 24v dist box alongside the 24v->13.8v 20Amp unit. I sourced these on Aliiexpress and am delighted with the results of some superficial tests.  The 13.8v 20Amp unit had no difficulty delivering 18Amp to my IC-769Pro transceiver, with a voltage drop to 13.2v. Looking forward to loading up the 12v 40Amp unit.

I wanted these inverters to be isolated with the big switch on the 24v dist box, as well as protecting them with a fuse. So I drilled a 13mm hole in the front of the dist box, between the two input sockets, and installed a festoon fuse holder. So I now have a 30Amp fuse between the top of the 100Amp circuit breaker and three bullet connectors (one for each of the inverters and one for the rear Merit socket.  - Now where is that white Letterset which I used 30 years ago to label my electronics project panels??

Unfortunately the bottom of the 100Amp circuit breaker broke (just fell apart in my hands boss!). It all still works and is held securely enough by the top mounting screw, but would be nice to replace with an intact unit some time in the future.

In the pic below, the aluminium heat sink on the left is the new 12v40A unit and on the right the 13.8v20A.

[DetV]

Cannon socket housings and caps are still original. I have replaced one of the Cannon sockets with a 25Amp aviation socket (top right).

I have standardised on XT60 in-line connectors for all my DC appliances (blue for 24v & yellow for 12v). These are light and compact compared to clunky Andersons. (Although Andersons are good for surface mount and for interoperability with other users I have several adapters).

I intend to insert a USB charger in one of the Cannon socket housings. One Merits on the front panel plus one in the rear quarter are enough for my purpose.

[DetV]

Yesterday I added (ARN): 204973 to the collection. Will pick it up along with 4 rims and 4 tyres from Minto on Tuesday 22 May. I'll have an empty FFR and only half full trailer if anyone in the Canberra/Yass region would like their stuff picked up PM me.

[Carzee]

Good haul. I was so busy I flat out forgot about the auction.

The Anderson plug power points are an idea I plan to make use of. What do you think of using them to power the twin ARB air compressor-in-a-ammo-box?

[DetV]

I use XT60 connectors for my appliances and for extension leads, finding the Andersons too clunky. However, XT60s are only useful as in-line connectors.  To power my compressor, I have made up an adapter cable from the 175A Anderson to XT60. I can also then power it off the XT60 on my 24v->12v 40A inverter.

[DetV]

My XT60s and Anderson 175 adapter.

[DetV]

The delivery man brought me another pressie today. Now I need NATO to 7pin plat adapter so I can tow my civvy gal trailer - any suggestions? I have got a spare 7pin flat and 7pin round, just need a NATO trailer plug.

[AGAS 5]

Det, FYI. The rim with the red painted XXX is likely stuffed.  Get it checked out prior to use.

Cheers.

[DetV]

Thanks for the note AGAS 5.  I want 2 rims for additional spares - the other is a bonus if OK.

On another matter, now I can tow my civvy gal trailer.

[DetV]

Did the Minto run today to pickup these:
And I was delighted to find that, like the Perentie, the trailer also had a 6009 christmas tree. Old mates back together.