Author Topic: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer  (Read 5658 times)

Offline craigb

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craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« on: October 06, 2017, 01:39:27 PM »
EDIT: Dec, 2017 - I've deleted most of my posts in this thread since most are inappropriate for a military vehicle collector's forum.

As per my sig, the vehicle is ARN 49-215 Truck, Utility, Lightweight, FFR, Winch, MC2 -1989. I haven't been through the log book properly yet, but a flick through indicates it spent a lot of time on strength with School of Armour at Pucka.

I bought it second hand from a bloke up Tamworth way. The previous owner spent a lot of time and money getting the vehicle sorted to his liking. His mods were mainly mechanical and were the reason I bought a rather pricey second hand one rather than go for one straight out of the auctions.

At time of writing I've had it about a week and I'm still getting to know it. Not sure if I like it yet, but the buyer's remorse is fading. I bought it so I have to live with it :-D

PO's major mods, additions and damage -

- Painted with colourbond "Eucalyptus Mist" rattlecans. I don't like it, but it does approximate the shade of badly-faded camouflage green IRR paint you see on these vehicles
- Power steering
- Rear disk brakes
- Heavy duty clutch
- Long travel suspension
- 33 inch BFGs
- APT snorkel
- ARB onboard compressor
- Original 24v power system chopped and an RFSV-style 12v dual battery system fitted
- GME TX3120S UHF
- Light bar
- Civvy 110 hard top roof panel with a roof rack and boat roller. Original canvas FFR canopy sides added to this hard roof via sail track. 
- Exhaust chopped shortened to just before the rear wheel - very loud. My ears are still ringing. I gather this happened under flex while on a 4wd trip, with the big tyres damaging the original exhaust. I'm taking the vehicle into a muffler place this arvo to get a quote for a new piece.
- Front passenger side wing has an unfortunately-placed dent.
- Both rear wheel arch "eyebrows" are damaged from the big tyres. I have a good looking intact one here which came with the vehicle.
- Front canvas canopy bow chopped so the hard top would fit

Most of the in-service fittings were stripped out of the vehicle, but I have this morning replaced the "table" which sits in the rear of the FFRs. I have a half a No.5 trailer-load of bits which I'll be reinstalling as time goes by.

I've swapped out the big 33 rubber for 5 x standard perentie steel rims with OK Olympic Steeltrek tyres. I do appreciate the big tyres, but I've been running 750 16s on split rims on a Landcruiser for ten years, so I know and appreciate them more.

I have it booked in for a major service with KLR Automotive which will hopefully tell me if there's anything amiss mechanically. I am impressed with the ride though. The engine, gearbox, etc are all great and the coil suspension means it'll glide over those corrugated roads up north and out west.

My plans for the vehicle - in no particular order.

- Replace the APT snorkel with either an RFSV one or a DIY approximation - nope just chopped the top off to add a precleaner or ram air head.
- Repair the dent - done
- Repair the shortened exhaust - done
- Replace the damaged rear "eyebrows" done
- Paint it - Protec Camouflage Green or Protec Camouflage Brown - I have a half a dozen cans of both here, but can't decide. - in progress (Camouflage Brown)
- Install ignition lock - done
- Install door locks - haven't gotten around to this yet
- Install a "cubby box" centre console I bought online from Landybitz - done
- Install the RFSV-style kick vents that Carzee and some others have fitted - I grew to appreciate the kick vents in my old Landcruiser - they do make a difference in a non-air conditioned vehicle on a stinking hot day - parts purchased pending install
- Relocate the ARB compressor from its current position in the driver's side FFR battery locker to under the bonnet - wiring for the compressor relocated, still need to make up the mounting plate for the compressor
- Fabricate or purchase an RFSV-style "security" box for the same location - mainly for POL, belts and filters
- Repair or replace the chopped front canopy bow
- Remove the hard top and fit an olive drab canvas canopy - Ideally I'd like a series III GS type with an extended rear curtain to match the FFR's "tailgate". I like windows.
- DIY a canvas "fume curtain" with a big window in it. Helps keep out exhaust fumes, dust and rain, and in the cool weather should help keep the heat in. Also, chicks'll dig it for sure... won't they...? - revised - have a store-bought fume curtain - still to fit.
- Have a rear tyre carrier based on the RFSV type made up, but sized for one spare wheel only - allows me to carry two spares (one underneath and one in this carrier), which should be enough in my experience
- RFSV-style dual jerry can carrier on rear driver's side. Maybe bolt together the two existing jerry carriers and work out a way to mount and secure them.
- Strip out the connectors on the FFR power distribution box and install a variety of merit, cig and USB output sockets, plus one or more Anderson Engel posi-fit inputs for trickle charging the batts from my solar panels if stationary for a few days. - Done
- Make up a platform for the interior for storage and as a solid surface for a mattress or swag if required. Nope - not doing this now.
- second fuel tank. I have a gaping empty space under the passenger's seat where the cranking battery once lived. I heard you could put another 68 litre fuel tank in there. Having it plumbed to the same filler neck as the main tank would be convenient.
- Purchase or have fabricated the fairlead roller pins/bolts so I can bring my PTO winch back into an operational condition - in progress - Horizontal rollers fitted. Still need to fabricate pins for the vertical rollers. in progress
- Bolt-in/bolt-out jerrycan carriers for my 22 litre water drums located somewhere in the interior. - done
- Platform for my 40 litre fridge freezer - probably locate atop the FFR "table". done
- High lift jack mount utilising the FFR radio aerial "sugar scoops" on one side. Nope. Going for a civilian roof rack mount
- DIY an insect screen for the flimsy plastic grille. - Done. Added aluminium insect netting to the inside of the grille.
- Ditch the existing light bar and fit a pair of round spotties

That's all I can think of - at least until the list of mechanical work needed is determined.

Some pictures -
« Last Edit: May 11, 2018, 05:35:07 PM by craigb »
ARN 49-215 Truck, Utility, Lightweight, FFR, Winch, MC2 "Frankie" -1989
ARN 101-001 Trailer, Cargo, Ton, 2 Wheeled, Aust. No. 5 - 1963

Offline dugite

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2017, 03:07:14 PM »

Impressive and interesting list craig, and a it brings a couple of things to mind (I knew that vehicle when it lived nearby).

The insect screens for the 4X4 110s can be purchased from Robco.

The second tank used under the pass seat in the RFSV is a tank from a LR90. So while it fits there, I understand they're quite expensive. The tank selection as factory fitted is by way of a Pollak valve but if I was doing it from scratch I'd use a simple 12v transfer pump.
2a 109 114-341,
No.5 173-589,
W/S Platform 178-000,
PT1 204-796

Offline dugite

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2017, 06:14:55 PM »
death wobbles can be steering damper or bushes and may be exacerbated by wheel imbalance
2a 109 114-341,
No.5 173-589,
W/S Platform 178-000,
PT1 204-796

Offline BEARMAN

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2017, 08:30:43 PM »
Or swivel housing preload.
09/1998 Perentie 6X6 ARN202516 - BRUTUS

Offline dugite

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2017, 06:08:51 AM »
Of course, thanks Brian
2a 109 114-341,
No.5 173-589,
W/S Platform 178-000,
PT1 204-796

Offline STDDIVER

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2017, 05:59:55 PM »
Great post Craig!  Excellent read and positive progress - looking forward to the compressor fit solution under the bonnet too!


STDDIVER

Offline Carzee

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2017, 11:08:14 AM »
Great progress Craig.

1. I have a FFR power distr box you can borrow to look over and check out things as you need.

2. I have a spare panhard rod and new bushes ready to be pressed in. Saves waiting for parts. You can replace as time and work permits. This has happened already for a local member - its a like an exchange part. :) Take the rod over to Johnny at http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au  aka the Fyshwick Landy Club.

http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=4200.0

PM me.

Offline Carzee

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2017, 06:13:13 PM »
Wow, very busy.
Interesting about shellite. Not a common thing to do nowadays. I like it. Probably rarer than the walkers who use metho (I hate the invisible aspect).

For a bed board I used form ply, 18mm. Its strong, black and cheap at $10 a 900x600 sheet. Maybe if you see a AWOL alloy one you should buy it.

Offline Dervish

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2017, 07:19:11 PM »

Door tops/sliding windows:
- Ordered 4m of flocked rubber channel to fix the rattling windows once and for all.
- Removed both door tops. I'll run door top-less until the rubber arrives. I was surprised that the door top bolts were in generally good condition, although one had been replaced with a galvanised bolt. I was also pleasantly surprised that unlike the Garrison Outfitters videos, the rivets in the Perentie door tops have been replaced with little screws. That'll make life easier.


Where did you get your bailey channel if you don't mind me asking? The source I knew of folded and it has eluded me since.

By far the best camp cooking method for us is a Trangia on gas; with the 220g bottles. Gas and stove weigh about a kilo together, including two pots, pan and kettle. Brilliant bit of kit.


Offline Jdemo1

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #9 on: October 20, 2017, 04:21:02 PM »
Love the progress mate. What kind of prepping did you do to the old paint before you painted? A light sand then whack on the protec?

Cheers
Jake
1988 Land Rover Perentie FFR 48-714

Offline dugite

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #10 on: October 29, 2017, 06:24:44 PM »
The curtain in the FFR top is for blackout purposes, but would equally act for a similar purpose to what you need. On my most recent canopy order I added a curtain mainly for the purpose of additional warmth in winter, that insipid 110 heater needs all the help it can get :)

The curtain you illustrated looks good.
2a 109 114-341,
No.5 173-589,
W/S Platform 178-000,
PT1 204-796

Offline dugite

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #11 on: October 29, 2017, 06:27:17 PM »
The curtain in the FFR top is for blackout purposes, but would equally act for a similar purpose to what you need. On my most recent canopy order I added a curtain mainly for the purpose of additional warmth in winter :)

The curtain you illustrated looks good.

Ah of course, a blackout curtain. I think it's made from that super-opaque silvery PVC type material on the inside of the FFR canopies too isn't it? I reckon it'd be cheap and easy to sew a clear vinyl window into that one, although it wouldn't be much of a blackout curtain once you were done  :D

no need for a window  - there is no matching rear "window" in the back of the FFR canopy.
2a 109 114-341,
No.5 173-589,
W/S Platform 178-000,
PT1 204-796

Offline Dozer

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2017, 01:33:19 PM »
Great continued work Craig!  And I love the wave thing, with me being in the whole hand wave category.  I tend to not make eye contact Series 200's ;)
Perentie RFSV ARN 48002;  No.5 trailer ARN 177277; No.5 trailer ARN 173261;  Haulmark PT1-1.2 Cargo Trailer ARN 205034; Half-ponton ("Bailey or Ugli") bridge boat 63447; Silverwood dual axle RAN boat trailer NIC 20104; Marston Mat hoarder

Offline Chazza

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #13 on: November 12, 2017, 08:57:20 PM »

I wanted to retain my existing headlight assembly and its panel, so in order to remove the top wing panel from the assembly I had to drill out some rivets and then drill out what looks like some spot welds on the reinforcing plates. I haven't yet decided how to secure these spot welded areas. I have some stainless steel pop rivets which might work, or I may bolt them together.

Don't use stainless on aluminium it will start very bad corrosion between the two metals.

Always use rivets made from the same base metal as the panel.

Cheers Charlie
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S2A 109" GS '63
S2A Fire Truck '64

Offline craigb

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Re: craigb's Perentie FFR and No. 5 Trailer
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2018, 05:27:04 PM »
Modified and reinstalled some of the FFR-specific bits and pieces which came with the vehicle.

FFR Interior "Disco" Light -




Hardwired into my house battery and added 12v bulbs, clear and amber. Didn't have a red lens, so I just bought another clear lens for it. "Normal" is white light and "Blackout " is amber light. Since my vehicle is currently fitted with a hard top panel, I don't have a centre hood bow to mount the light to, so I hose-clamped it to the rear ROPS hoop. In this position it fills the rear of the vehicle with light nicely, with minimal shadow.

FFR Power Distribution Box -

I couldn't find a gutted one to play around with, so I gutted and re-wired my original as a camping power hub. The idea was to ensure it could power the fridge as well as charge USB devices while moving, provide output sockets for my 12v shower and strip lights while in camp as well as occasional use of a 300w inverter to recharge laptop, camera and drone batteries. I wanted to be able to trickle charge or top up the vehicle batts with solar panels without having to open the battery locker door, so it needed a couple of auxiliary input sockets. I wanted the whole box to be easily demountable from the vehicle and able to be mounted in various positions as well.
At the end of the day I have a camp power box which can be plugged directly into the vehicle's house battery or can connect to my "portable" battery box.
It has an 8-16v voltmeter, power to which is achieved by the conversion of the original circuit breaker into a simple on-off switch for the voltmeter and its light.
It has two inputs on the face plate which are Engel/Posi-fit sockets. These easily handle the load from the solar panels and are positive, screw-down waterproof connections perfect for this application.
It has two output sockets on each side. Three of these sockets are now Merit/DIN/Hella sockets and one is a dual USB. Unfortunately, the 12v cigar sockets are just a little too wide to fit the Cannon socket housings, so I'm forced to use Merit sockets and will use Merit-Cigar adaptors where necessary.
The space under the hinged lid of the power distribution box has been completely stripped out aside from the Tufnol board which I have retained as a floor. This space is used to store adaptors and cables and will eventually be latched.
I made up a quick and dirty adapter bracket to allow the box to me bolted to the FFR antenna mount points and to an identically-spaced pair of rivnuts on the bulkhead behind the passenger seat. This allows the box to be mounted securely in any of five positions inside the vehicle.
What's left to do? Replace the USB socket with a different type. Paint the adapter bracket olive drab. Add a pair of small latches to either side of the flip-top lid for quick access to the adapters and cables stored under it. Label the various parts such as "12V IN - AUX", "12V OUT - DIN", "12V OUT - USB", "STORAGE", etc. I'll use one of those old-timey Dymo embossing labellers with a transparent label tape they make for them and see how that works. If no go I'll paint the completed labels olive drab and sand them down so the white lettering is visible before applying the labels to the power distribution box.

Some pics:


Anderson connector mounted to bottom of casing with one bolt and with enough cable slack that it may rotate 360 degrees


Leftovers from gutting the power distribution box


Merit plug powering my fridge


Voltmeter powered.


Detail of the Posi-fit aux. input sockets


Cable/adapter storage


Wiring inside the casing. I had to add a terminal block.


Wiring inside the face plate.


Power distribution box in position inside the vehicle, mounted to a sugar scoop aerial mount point.

A couple of general views of the completed box -

ARN 49-215 Truck, Utility, Lightweight, FFR, Winch, MC2 "Frankie" -1989
ARN 101-001 Trailer, Cargo, Ton, 2 Wheeled, Aust. No. 5 - 1963